Lotus Elise 111R / Tuned

  • Thread starter yannc
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anyone know the difference between the two models besides the power ? i know the 111R has 180bhp, and the other one has less power. i'm thinking of tuning the second version (not the 111). maybe i'll try and come up with new settings tonight.
 
I got to try these settings tonight. I took my Elise 111R out last night to Suzuka and I got pwned by oversteer. I was trying to catch up to another yellow Elise and I spun out.

Thanks.
 
Which is teh ultimum set-up for this car is it the version 2 specs in the very first post or one of the subsequent posts?

Also what are the characteristics that stop the back of the car from kicking out in corners because before I started usign these mods mentioned in thread I couldn't even take a slight bend without spinning!
 
The car is rated that way with the new downloads that came out for GT5P. This tune that you are looking at was made before the new update was released.
 
How about an updated setting to match the game update? I've tried the setting recomended before the update but can not get better than 6th at Suzuka.
 
jacksonww
How about an updated setting to match the game update? I've tried the setting recomended before the update but can not get better than 6th at Suzuka.
Click to expand...

Hi there,

I loving the 11r tuned more every day, though the Clio V6 is a bit better in topendspeed vs acceleration.

Here's my setting for Suzuka ( which I mainly overtook van the topic starter 👍 )

Pwr 0%
WHT 103
Tyr R1 / R3
DWNF 15 / 25

RH -3 / -5
Spr 6 / 8
Damp 5 / 5
Toe -0.35/+0.35
CMB 2.5 / 2.0
Brk 7 / 6
STA 30
TCS 1
ABS 1

Gearing
1 3.116
2 2.050
3 1.481
4 1.171
5 0.997
6 0.855

FG 4.141

I think there's still room for improvement, but as a start this works for me

Grtz

Bryan
 
Here is my Concept by GT 111R Tuned setup that I use for easy gold in both S7 and S10. If I make few mistakes and no penalties I'm in the lead by lap 4. Assuming I pick the right starting lineup... :sly:

These settings are Spec II 700PP.

This setup suits my driving style well. I drive this car with standard physics because I drive GT5P to have fun and this car is not fun (to me) in professional mode. My best laps so far are 1.38 at Fuji and 2.00 at Suzuka.

I use the same setup for the 680PP races with adjustments to power.

Power +35
Weight 85%
Aero 15 25
Height -10 -5
Springs 6 4
Dampers 5 3
Toe +0.10 -0.30 (this sacrifices a bit of turn-in for better mid-corner grip)
Camber 2.3 1.8
Brakes 7 3 (if I use more rear brake the rear gets too loose on braking)
Max Turning 40
Traction 1 (TCS off is actually faster but harder to drive)
ABS 1

Gears
1 2.689 52mph (unimportant since the car never sees first gear)
2 1.822 77mph
3 1.406 100mph
4 1.013 127mph
5 0.903 155mph
6 0.754 198mph
Final 4.486

I do sometimes hit the rev limiter at the end of the straight when drafting, so if that bothers you then bump up 6th gear a couple of mph.

A couple of points of advice...

The 111R has to be steered with the throttle as much as the wheel. I drive with no shoes on so I have better throttle feel. I have no advice for those who drive with the paddle since I never have.

Give the Morrison Vettes plenty of room. They will slide off the road and then smash into you when they come back on. You will get the penalty(s). In fact any car that slides off may do that so you may have to slow down slightly so they shoot across the track in front of you instead of knocking you into the wall.

Don't be in front of the GT LM cars at the end of the straights. They will punt you off. You will get the penalty(s). If a GT LM is behind you pull off line to the inside so it will go by you when it overshoots the corner. Just rember to brake a few feet earlier since you won't be on line going into the corner.

Outbraking going into the chicane is a great way to pass but be careful. The chicane is a penalty trap.

If you're not drafting another car on the straight and there is a car close behind you pull off line so they can't draft you. The other cars are faster on the straights as it is. Don't give them any help.
 
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s2k2k3, I tried your settings and thanks for posting.

I only just tried, at Suzuki at the Net races, the 750 pro races, the 12 competitor version.

The settings must have changed, because with your settings, I was over the 75 point limit.

I did not do that much testing, but eventually I started to run some fast laps, when behind though. The game makes it easier if you are behind. But I did run a sector 1 the fastest I have done, and in a normal race near the front, I did the first sector in almost 53 seconds flat, which for me is fast.

I tried your settings at first, but the car would break away in the back, on fast open corners. Eventually I increase the weight, the horsepower, and the wing, and I changed your rear toe setting to 0. That stopped the tail letting go, as did the wing.

I lowered the gearing too - I like third to be used on the curves which come after the two first straights. But I also like to go to fourth at the end of the curves on the left sweaper, which opens to another straight. So 4th needs to be not that far from 3rd for me.

Incredibly, the car moves around almost in sink with the corners going through those curves.

But unfortunately, the car is too light, and if someone hits you, your gone. And it doesn't have enough power to get away from people after heavy braking. And it lacks speed on the straights - plus the cars behind get a tow. So they car come up to you, and touch you, and 8 times out of 10, you loose the car. With other cars, that problem is not obvious.

Under test conditions, 2:02s are quite possible, as they are during the race. But unfortunately, I don't think the car handles traffic.

I'd love to try another setup from someone - mine still does not feel right - the car seems to roll / jerk around when at the limit on some open fast corners.

I love the feel though - anyone out there with a 750 setup, I'd love to try it.

Thanks for the work - much appreciated.
 
Melbourne Park
s2k2k3, I tried your settings and thanks for posting.

I only just tried, at Suzuki at the Net races, the 750 pro races, the 12 competitor version.

The settings must have changed, because with your settings, I was over the 75 point limit.
Click to expand...

That 111R tune is for Spec II.

I have tried tuning the 111R for Spec III but the car just seems slow now. Perhaps somebody can figure out how to bring it alive again.
 
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s2k2k3
That 111R tune is for Spec I.

I have tried tuning the 111R for Spec III but the car just seems slow now. Perhaps somebody can figure out how to bring it alive again.
Click to expand...

I figured it out. I changed the gearing a bit too - and that difference for the toe which I mentioned.

I am new to GT5, and will now stop driving until the full version, but I had a couple of weeks and it was fun.

I spent some time on the net, at Suzuka Pro, the 750 12 car race. Great fun. I would get left behind by miles at the start, and by sitting back, I'd end up mid field, about 15 seconds behind. I could win from there, if I made no mistakes. The problem with the car is getting belted by others.

I found that having a high speed in first gear, stopped the wheels spinning getting away, and i got away much better. I lengthened second too, and also third. 4th is very close to 3rd, but 4th needs to just right to blast by cars at seemingly two times their speed, after the snakes curves, the left sweeping curve should be taken full throttle there, and you need the gearing working from 7 to 9 grand for the power, and the car needs full power to keep the line or it will drift wide.

With TC the cars a dog - it must not have TC.

I should post my gearing, because its tailored to the corners, and maybe someone could do a better job.

When behind racing on the net at Suzuka 750 Pro, the car goes light, and it runs faster. When leading, it gets heavier. When leading, I run steady 2:02-3s, but sometimes for some reason, I can run 2:01s - the game lightens the car at times. When behind, the best I've done is two 1:55s in row - the car was light then!

I can hold any Nissan, but one Amuse and a plain Ford GT were as fast, although the Amuse was very will driven - so too the Ford GT.

Anyway, the secret - max out the power, and increase the weight. Simple - and the car not only flies, but it can take bumps much better, being heavier. And max wing (35) on the rear, and 17 or 18 on the front (I forget which). That makes it take bumps better too - more downforce!!

As I said before, I dialed back the rear toe from .4 to .1 in fact, it stabilised the car, although I can drive with four, but the car becomes unpredictable at times. Although with your setting, the oversteer makes the car feel likes its on rails. I also hardened the car a bit, so that it skidded a bit more, which was easier to drive. But I suspect your softer setting is actually faster when you are get used to the car.

When leading, after the big straight before the chicane, that fast left turn, if one runs wide and crosses the tarmac seperator, the car oversteers left and you typically crash. So its best to touch the brakes and then keep you foot down flat out, cutting that corner.

The car is so much faster from the first corner until you go under the bridge - 53 seconds there is simply normal. 51 seconds and you must be behind, and the car is light.

Its the easiest car I've driven, and the most fun. I loved it. Thanks - my car was my son's "name:, Blitz-Too, from Australia, "au" .

I almost had a heart attack on race, my son was watching, and some fellow drove straight at me, and I was so wound up in the race, I thought I was going to get killed when I saw the head on ... phew - its only a game.
 
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Here are my changes to s2k2k3 setups, which have worked for me for Spec III (I have not driven the other specs - sounds like I missed out on some good stuff).

Power: - (or is it plus) 35%. 336hp (It may be + 35% - the power is set to maximum)
Weight: 113%, 779kg
tyres: R3 R3
Aero: 17 35
ride height: -15 -7
spring rate: 7 5
damper: 6 4
toe: 0.02 +0.01
camber: 2.3 1.8
brakes: 9 5


angle: 50 (wheel)
TCS: off (must do otherwise you won’t handle or power out of the corners)
ABS: 1

1st: 2.690 - 85
2nd: 1.906 - 120
3rd: 1.562 - 147
4th: 1.242 - 185 (could be a bit shorter)
5th: 1.016 - 226
6th: 0.855 - 285

final: 4.411

You'll notice the long low gears - these do work I think.

Here is the gear per corner description, as the car is tuned for Suzuki 750. I did run it in S10 Pro mode, and I got in front by lap three or 4, so it worked there too. Although I crashed at the last chicane just before the finish, while a long way in front ... it pays to back off a bit when you are in front. But in the lotus you'll always have to power out of the corners.

Start by reving at around 7000RPM and plant the throttle at the start - the engine will bog down but its grip all the way. I left foot brake up the curves in the start traffic, and try and avoid hitting people. Either third or fourth gear. You can be full throttle at the end of the curves, on the left Dunlop curve.

Next time around, at the end of the straight when I get to First Curve, I break and power on, sometimes in 5th, then fourth and then third for Second Curve. A lower third gear would be better here, and also would also benefit the Degner corner, because it would power you under the bridge better. But a lower third would hurt you especially on the Hairpin, and you need to nail that corner, as it leads onto the long straight up the hill.

I used to have a shorter 4th, and when I nailed Haipin in that, it was very quick. But if you get a bit wide in 4th, you can’t get back to the apex, as the engine lacks enough torque - so I typically now use third 85% of time at Degner for its exit apex. If third was shorter gear, it could not be used much at Degner's exit apex, and you also might loose the car there with too much power from a shorter third gear.

Back to my lap: After Second curve, you go through the Ss. No car can touch you here, although they will block you. If they are blocking and fast, then get some speed up before Dunlop, even drop back from them, and hit the apex there in 4th on full power and they’ll be way behind you. I they had dropped back, you'll pass inside them at twice their speed, and its goodbye foolish dudes.

Use the brakes and throttle together too - a wheel driver's heaven are the S curves in the Lotus. I used to use 4th all the way up the curves and for Dunlop, but since I lengthened third and fourth, I now use fourth for the first part of the curves, and third for the final S curve corner, and then 4th for Dunlop.

Hit 5th even sixth (if the car is light due to the game) and you’ll get to Degner, which has two right hander apexs. Take the first in 4th (which 4th is longer now) and the second Degner in third, where you back off the throttle for a micro second, kick out the tail and then full power through in third, if its perfect, you’ll be in the power band, but normally its a bit off it, but its still a very quick car here.

You’ve gone under the crossover behind you now, hopefully in the low 50s, and there’s cars in front who were a long way in front of you before the curves. This left Hairpin Corner is very slow, and once I would spin here. But now I simply go a bit wide, break, back the throttle right off to kick the tail out, and then use the long second gear to power through. 2nd gear all the way ... the long second does not slip, and you won’t spin either, and you’ll be amazingly fast out for a small powered car. Even the tall first might be slower than 2nd all the way. If you’re then passed, its because they drafted you - or they were better drivers back there!

Then accelerate, and you can stick right or go for a draft. If there are cars close behind, they'll be angry because you are a Lotus driver, so stay tight right - you have the grip to power away there, but they won't be able to stick on your right side, they'll want to get by on the left of you, and then they'll discover they can't get around the curves, because you are going too fast - hopefully. Staying very right stops them drafting you.

Then you approach the hairpin, on the right side of the track still you'll be braking and then grapping the left apex, down toward to right sand traps areas - there are often cars in there - and you have another crucial apex on the left because in the Lotus, you must exit every corner with the power on, from its apex.

As said before, after you braked and hit the left part of the curve in 4th you'd then power on through, with the wheel turned. And if the car is light and everythings perfect, hit the second apex in the same fourth gear. Avoid touching the ripple strips on the right as I think they can upset the car, and its difficult to get the apex of the left corner if you upset the car. Select third if you haven’t enough power to get to the apex - third will get you back to a good exit. This corner is also why third is a bit longer.

You must rev out the engine all the way of course to get the most from the engine and its wheezy asmatic turbo. If only there was a deeper torque curve!

You're now powered up the hill, one the straight, and a top car will get you here. Now my 6th could be longer - but since often you are not drafting, then I've left it a bit under geared.

I used to use 5th at the fast left hander 130R - but now I am leaving it in 6th, and either very slightly lifting the throttle, or more often touching the brakes, and cutting or kissing the apex. If a Ford GTLM outdragged you earlier, you'll pull in a huge amount of space here after the 130R's apex. It's possible not to even lift - if you were practicing you could drive straight through here I reckon - but that's not wise when racing I think. And although it might work for two laps, the thrid one the game will bite you, and the car might drift right. But go ahead if you must ... and if you hit the centre material by running right after 130R, its dangerous, it upsets my car. If you are over there, its hang on and be prepared to crash - at least when I am driving. I'e got through it, and it annoys me some cars do it deliberately and they negotiate the penalty. Still maybe the Lotus could do that every lap - but something I doubt it.

The chicane or Casio Triangle - I was very slow here, but now I just use the long second gear. No slippage here with that, and now I am as fast as any car I reckon. That 2nd gear feels as if it glues the tyres to the road.

R3s do stick like glue - I have also checked out the car with R2s on the front, with the wing dialed up to 20 (max) and it does work. You take 7kg off the weight. That helps with top speed and accelleration, although breaking is not much different. It helps too with grip, because its a rear bias car. Its a bit washier on the front - but its works fairly much the same IMO. Worth a try I guess. The benefit in acelleration in traffic is not be be ignored - people should try that. I did, the first practice was 2:02.5xx, the second lap 2:01.430, so its about the same speed, but it maybe has more potential. I only tried practice two laps. You'd need to change the gearing a bit at least and the car is a bit lighter too ...

I find the Lotus very easy to drive, as a wheel user its nice to have a car controlled by the throttle, because you don’t have to move the wheel much, unless of course your over-driving. But that is fun too.
 
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Wow Melborne. Nice write up and yes I read it all! :P I am going to give your tune a try. This car is one of my favorites and I've been tuning this car for quite sometime now and by comparing your lap times even though they are online....I am pretty sure your tune still is fast if not faster than my tune!! : )
 
Melbourne Park
Here are my changes to s2k2k3 setups, which have worked for me for Spec III (I have not driven the other specs - sounds like I missed out on some good stuff).

Power: -35%. 336hp
Weight: 113%, 779kg
tyres: R3 R3
Aero: 17 35
ride height: -15 -7
spring rate: 7 5
damper: 6 4
toe: 0.02 +0.01
camber: 2.3 1.8
brakes: 9 5


angle: 50 (wheel)
TCS: off (must do otherwise you won’t handle or power out of the corners)
ABS: 1

1st: 2.690 - 85
2nd: 1.906 - 120
3rd: 1.562 - 147
4th: 1.242 - 185 (could be a bit shorter)
5th: 1.016 - 226
6th: 0.855 - 285

final: 4.411
Click to expand...

I will definately be trying this tune.
 
Please report how you go guys. In the races, don't worry if you're way behind - you'll get them later. I had my last race, and there was a car 12 seconds if front, I was third, then second, and I was a few seconds faster per lap. He was good - but i was just faster, and I kept realling him in, especially from the S's up to the Hairpin. But they open up a touch from there - which gives them a false sense of security. When you get within 2 seconds, you start to get the draft, and you catch them quite quickly sometimes. That last race, he crashed at the last chicane, and I won. It was the ubiquitous Nissan - they are never a problem to eat up.

It's quite uncomfortable being in front, and having someone reeling you in, in a steady relentless way, and you know that they'll catch you. When they get close, they start to overdrive. They get a real surprise when the teeny Lotus pulls by. Some though get angry.

The main issue though is that I always start from the back of the grid, and the car is still a bit slow off the mark. But you do know that if you keep cool, you'll pass more cars than anyone else will. Also i found that if someone bumps you off the track, they will crash when the are the car in front of you. And when you try to catch up, the car gets light and very fast. That is when the car can runs 1:55s, and such sub 2 minute times.

Let me know how it goes - I hope it works for you.

And its s2k2k3's setup - I just fiddled with it.

PS - I am a bit worried about me saying the power was -35%. I found the car was faster with more power (not surprising all things considered, but maybe things were different with the earlier versions of the game). I soon set it on the max power available, then set fiddled with the downforces as I increased the weight upwards until it complied. Less power and less weight immediately slowed the car down. Maybe that -35% should be + 35%.
 
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Love your transmission setup Melbourne Park, the car feels quite fast now (beside the 1st gear at the start of the race). Not sure about the suspension settings though, a bit too snappy for me (hard to correct mistakes). Here is my setup (with your transmission now) :

Power +35
Weight 113%
Tyres R3-R3
Aero 17-35
Ride Height -10f/-5R
Spring rate 5-8
Damper 5-5
Toe -0.06+0.06
Camber 2.5 - 2.8
Brake 6-4
Max tuning angle 30
Traction OFF
ABS 1

1st: 2.690 - 85
2nd: 1.906 - 120
3rd: 1.562 - 147
4th: 1.242 - 185
5th: 1.016 - 226
6th: 0.855 - 285

final: 4.411
 
yannc
Love your transmission setup Melbourne Park, the car feels quite fast now (beside the 1st gear at the start of the race). Not sure about the suspension settings though, a bit too snappy for me (hard to correct mistakes). Here is my setup (with your transmission now) :

Power +35
Weight 113%
Tyres R3-R3
Aero 17-35
Ride Height -10f/-5R
Spring rate 5-8
Damper 5-5
Toe -0.06+0.06
Camber 2.5 - 2.8
Brake 6-4
Max tuning angle 30
Traction OFF
ABS 1

1st: 2.690 - 85
2nd: 1.906 - 120
3rd: 1.562 - 147
4th: 1.242 - 185
5th: 1.016 - 226
6th: 0.855 - 285

final: 4.411
Click to expand...

First gear is a problem - but it would be worse if the gear was lower, in other words if the max speed was 80, then you'd get tyre slippage. Oh well - and also, I almost always was put in the last few cars.

As to being snappy - that would be because of the tune being for the wheel I presume. And that the car likes to have the power on for stability. My son says I drive very smooth - but that is the wheel and the throttle being easier to work together. than his hand controller.

I found that with the rear toe being higher, like you're +.06, that the car became more snappy - it would let go mid corner when the grip level was exceeded with such a toe level. You might try it positive but closer to zero, just to check.

One area where the wheel is terrible though, is when you get bumped off the road - its very difficult to work the wheel quickly and correctly in order to get back onto the track in such circumstances.

Glad that your car is performing well!
 
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all of you rely on downforce too much. going 100mph doesnt warrant alot of downforce. you all wonder why you get left on straights. drive a little better with less downforce so you can go faster in straights, and in the draft. good luck, beat the HP hogs!!!
 
by the way, if it is too "snappy" its because of too much camber. i run 1.8fr 1.9rr, it only snaps when i mess up, rare. and you dont have enough toe!! -15fr +15rear. i should shut up!!!
 

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