Tune Request - Corvette Z06 Race Car '63

  • Thread starter Thread starter holliday50
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Bump! I am looking for a tune for this car also, and I have not found anything when I did a search. I hope someone has a decent tune for this car. The more I try to mess with it the more I mess it up. I just had to reset it to default, and start over.
 
spdu4ea
'63 is not a C6...
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The 1963 vette is the only one that is a split window.

I am level 28 and still looking for it. Its not for sale new, used, not a reward for any race. WHERE IS IT? I found the way to change the cars in the used car lot, you go to B-1 license test and do "next" to B-5 and there are different cars in the used car area.

Where are the '63 vettes sold/given?
 
Jack002
The 1963 vette is the only one that is a split window.

I am level 28 and still looking for it. Its not for sale new, used, not a reward for any race. WHERE IS IT? I found the way to change the cars in the used car lot, you go to B-1 license test and do "next" to B-5 and there are different cars in the used car area.

Where are the '63 vettes sold/given?
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I bought the car in the used car lot about a month ago and I have not seen it since.
 
BKViper
Count me among those looking for a good tune for this car.
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I got it last night for $90000 in the used car dealership and it is race modded.First time I have seen it and yes it is rare.Can't add a wing or any downforce parts to this beast so give me some time with this one.
 
killerjimbag
I got it last night for $90000 in the used car dealership and it is race modded.First time I have seen it and yes it is rare.Can't add a wing or any downforce parts to this beast so give me some time with this one.
Click to expand...

Looks like it will need some engine and body restoration so give me some more time.
 
63 Corvette Stingray C2 Z06
Bought from used car dealership last night,not sure of price didn't write it down sorry.It was a late night purchase.This car came with full racing modification.
Parts that came with the car as I don't know what was on it originally.
Body Chasis: Purchased chasis reinforcement.
Aero: comes with full kit but cannot see anything on car? ( no visible spoilers or wing)
Engine: Can't purchase anything
Intake: Can't purchase anything
Exhaust: Titanium was on it
Turbo/Supercharger: Stage 1 turbo was equipped. Don't know why but it was on it.Will mess with 2 and 3 later.
Tranny: Fully customizable on car already
Drivetrain: Fully adjustable on car already
Suspension: Fully adjustable on car already
Tires: Came equipped with racing hard bought racing soft

Car tested at the Nur Nord 6:52:987 in an online lobby free run.
Aero: F/50 R/70
Tranny: 217 MPH top speed
LSD: 10/40/20
Suspension:
Ride Height: F/0 R/0
Spring Rate F/6.0 R/6.0
Dampers Ext: F/8 R/8
Dampers Comp: F/8 R/8
Anti Roll: F/6 R/6
Camber: F/2.0 R/1.0
Toe: F/0.00 R/0.20
Brake Balance: F/5 R/5
Tires: Racing Soft

Driving Aids:
Traction Control: 1
Skid Recovery: ON
Active ASM: ON
ABS: 1

The car came with 3333.1 miles on it.Gave it an oil change.looks like it could use an engine rebuild and body restore,but the car handled pretty good.Have no idea why it came with a stage 1 turbo,but thats what it came with.Going back down to do some more testing with driving aids off and cranking up the turbo's.
 
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I got one at the used car dealer today. IIRC it was 799,000 credits.

I changed the oil and took it to the Historic Race Car events and got my butt kicked. It pushes something terrible and and accelerating out of a tight corner the inside rear tire lights up like Rudolf's nose. I think that means I need to start with changing the LSD, based on somehting I read here today.
 
WheelerDealer
I got one at the used car dealer today. IIRC it was 799,000 credits.

I changed the oil and took it to the Historic Race Car events and got my butt kicked. It pushes something terrible and and accelerating out of a tight corner the inside rear tire lights up like Rudolf's nose. I think that means I need to start with changing the LSD, based on somehting I read here today.
Click to expand...

LSD can only do so much... I found the stock settings on the suspension appalling. The A/R bars should be half what they are set at, the dampers are way too stiff, and the spring rate is probably way too high also; I'm still trying to figure out if there is a universal system for suspension mock ups or they actually vary in game as the real life car's linkage system would vary the leverage ratios. I'm actually thinking that if the latter is the case then the fully customized suspension for this car is bugged as in the minimum range of spring rates is still too stiff for it.

Did you run the stock Race Hards on your attempt or had you already switched up to Race Soft? I know this car has far too much pure torque on Race Hard for LSD tweaks to do much good, the only thing that might help would be a flywheel downgrade but race cars, LM, RM models are locked out of that option at tune shop :(

Edit: Played with it some more, bipolar car... seems a bit more stable at higher than default shock but I'm pretty sure if I could get under the minimum allowed spring rates it would like those also, feels too stiff all around, the extra spring rate boost just helps to make it so rigid it becomes a stable drift car. Just something I was toying with but you can try the raw spec below:

+ Chassis Reinforcement (may be a little too rigid, optional)
+ Aero @ 50/70 for Racing, 20/40 for Formula Drift (seasonal drift trial car possibly)
+ Transmission @ 273 MPH (max, for lengthy predictable gears without sudden shifts)
+ LSD @ 30/60/30 (seems to help a fair bit at these extremes, still touchy on corner, and oversteer and floor it for Formula Drift)
+ Ride Height 0 F / 0 R
+ Springs 10.6 F / 8.5 R
+ Rebound 5 F / 5 R
+ Bound 5 F / 5 R
+ Anti-Roll Bar 3 F / 3 R
+ Camber 0.0 F / 0.0 R (or you can try the default)
+ Toe 0.00 F / 0.00R
 
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Thanks, I'll try it in the morning and let you know if it helps me. I'm worn out tonight.

I did spend an hour or more trying different LSD settings with soft race tires and everything else like it came with the car. I settled on 20/20/20.

The post I refered to about the one red tire during acceleration was by daveyules, quote:

Keep your eye on your tire display when driving and in
replays. If the inside tire turns red while accelerating
out of a corner then you know your locking strength is not
high enough. If the outside tire turns red, it's too
strong. Find the middle ground.

Of course my 65 year old reflexes may require a more forgiving tune than you need.

Huge improvement!!!!

I tried your higher LSD settings and decided my lower settings were better for me. I put in some camber to help me turn 3.0/2.5 and some toe in for stability 1.0/2.0. I set the tranny for 137 top speed (Cote d'Azur) and got just one overrev (what do you call it when the revs go too high and the speed drops a bit?) on some sections.

I turn on the Active Stability management and use automatic transmission. I have my ABS set at 10 (why would you want them low?) So you see it's a real old man set up. But what the heck, I'm just trying to enjoy the game, not be the fastest driver online.

I got a practice lap of 1:40.5 vs. 1:44.5 before tuning. In one race attempt I came in second, a Ford GT 40 was in pole position and I never could pass him. I think I can win with a luckier grid or the Stage 3 Turbo if necessary.

Thanks for you suspension settings. Would it help to lower the ride height?
 
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WheelerDealer
I turn on the Active Stability management and use automatic transmission. I have my ABS set at 10 (why would you want them low?) So you see it's a real old man set up. But what the heck, I'm just trying to enjoy the game, not be the fastest driver online.
Click to expand...

These driving aids will slow you down, as it's a computer trying to correct how you're driving. I turn them all off to force myself to become a better driver, and I find that it gives me a fuller experience over all.
 
You may have missed the part about me being 65. I do turn off the TSM for tests or time trials when there is no other way, but it takes me longer and raises my blood pressure. I just hate it when the rear comes around and goes first!

I did finish the Historic Race Car Event with the '63 'Vette. I kept trying to lower the ride height but nothing I tried lower my lap times. I finally put it back up to zero to make sure I had a good baseline and I got a grid where I could get the lead at the first corner on Cote d'Azur. Holding a lead was never the problem, passing was, so that race was finally won.

Why did my car start faster at 0/0 ride height than at -25/-25? I thought lower was always better barring dragging on ruogh track or curbs.
 
You have to change the spring rates to account for changes in ride height, also when it is lowered there is less weight transfered to the rear, so higher ride height equals more weight on rear axle, and better acceleration.
 
Hey WheelerDealer, i like the 63 C2 vette as well, at least for the looks. Initially the car was undriveable.for me. Here is what i changed to make it fairly driveable.

Ride height -10/5
Spring 5.5/4.5
Dampers 6/5
Damp Comp 6/5
Arb 2/2
Camber 2.5/2.0
Toe -.15/-.20
LSD 28/35/20
Brake 5/6

If you get too much understeer (ie. Can't seem to turn sharp enough) lowered the initial torque under LSD..As far as transmission goes it depends on the track. I always set for top speed of about 10 mph over what I want top speed to be.Hope this help.

Well I don't think my suggestions will help very much. Tried the race you listed and I could only do lap times of 1:44 to 1:45. :(

Much easier to use Camaro Z28 RM '69 and do 1:33-1:34 lap times. Set Tranny top speed 162 then set gears 1-4 at lowest setting, ie sliders to right. Set 5th to 1.013 for final top.speed of 154. LDS 5/40/20 brakes 4/8. That works well :) Doesn't matter what cars start in which starting spots.
 
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