Low drag is win, because it slows down the spool up and return speed of the FFB motors. This causes a delayed response and initial FFB deadzone.
This delay means that the steering wheel position, and with that virtual tyre position which is directly related to your wheel's position sensor, is behind the position where it should be in that point of time.
In other words, because of the delay the wheel is not responding linear anymore to the Physics going on inside the game. When this linearity is out of sync with the Physics you are unable to react in time to what the car is doing or wants to do.
Go watch this Leo Bodnar steering wheel review. The guy is impressed by just how linear and thus direct the wheel responds to the game's Physics.
Only embedded the last part, as it is only that which is relevant.
Talking about linearity, here is why I dislike weight transfer effects being added to the FFB signal. Or actually any 'canned effect'.
I wrote this just now at WMD in reply to a member, but I thought I would share.
He asked me why games like AC and others felt more heavier with his G25 and why pCARS doesn't.
Christiaan van Beilen
That is because other games often add or completely base their FFB on the car's weight transfer. A fake force that counteracts the direction you are supposed to steer in.
With a G25 it seems to feel 'okay' but once you have a better more powerful wheel than it feels horrible and works against you instead of with you. This because the more powerful wheel makes it harder to overcome the weight transfer effect for you as a driver, as the effect is too powerful. This in contrast with a G25 where you could still easily overcome this force and point the wheels in the correct direction, with a T500 it would work so much against you that you are constantly one step behind the Physics.
This effect can be enabled and adjusted in the FFBTweakers though. It is in the FFBTweaker documentation.
Then he wondered why I couldn't just turn down the global FFB strength of my wheel to counter the strength of the weight transfer effect. Here was my reply.
Christiaan van Beilen
Yeah, but that's just a general volume dial. One general dial that controls two things at once, strength/torque and rotational speed.
Let's say the car wants the tyres to be at a certain angle and this corresponds to 90 degrees wheel rotation, within 1 second. The car Physics expect that the tyres are always at their center of steering.
Now let's say for example that with full linear force to the left (let's say +100%), the steering wheel rotates 90 degrees in 1 second. This steering position is feedback to the game and is directly related to tyre position/angle.
If we do the same but add weight transfer the counter. If the weight transfer counts as 50% because we drive a tail heavy car, than the force that turns the wheel to the left is only 50%. Which means that at our 1 second mark the wheel will only he at 45 degrees, halfway of where it should be.
In other words, we would need 2 seconds to get to 90 degrees steering wheel angle. That's a delay of 1 second in which the Physics could require a completely different steering wheel and thus tyre angle.
Now if we would turn that general volume dial down to 50% general volume, if at 100% it would be perfectly linear. We would get 50% strength and results in just 45 degrees in 1 second, because not only did we turn down the strength but also the rotational speed.
Now with weight transfer and half the general volume we would have a turning strength of 25% that results in turning just 22.5 degrees angle on the steering wheel.
In other words we would need 4 seconds to get to 90 degrees steering angle, while the Physics wants you to be there in 1 second
So with stronger wheels we either would need to use more muscle to counter intuitively fight the fake weight transfer effect, or make it easier on the muscles but have a huge delay behind the Physics.
All in all, the wheel would feel out of sync with what is going on Physics wise.
Hope this was of interest to some of you guys.

Basically the answer was that if you want more strength from a wheel, get a stronger wheel. But keep the FFB signal as pure as possible so that it doesn't cause a delay and odd effects, amking everything feel out of sync.
Linearity is the key, and buy strength with your dollars (unfortunately as I crave a Bodnar wheel).
