A guide for suspension?

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LondonSV

LondonSV

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London-SV
I used Motor City Hamilton's guide for the LSD, I found it very helpful but now I need a little help with Suspension, I know that the game says the basics but I need to know a little extra.

How to decrease understeer/oversteer?

If I lower the car how do I know how much to adjust the springs?

Dampers, how do I use these?

I really want to get into tuning, I've done 1 car already which I'm happy with but after tuning a Renault 5 Turbo for almost 2 hours and feel like I've made very little progress, I think I need some more tips, I can't rely wholly on LSD.

Thanks in advance
 
I think this would be a good idea for everyone, i know there were some generic guides for GT5, but some of the values do the opposite thing, so if one of the tuners who understands this could create a new basic guide or just modify an existing GT5 one to be accurate with GT6s new rules.
 
LondonSV
I used Motor City Hamilton's guide for the LSD, I found it very helpful but now I need a little help with Suspension, I know that the game says the basics but I need to know a little extra.

How to decrease understeer/oversteer?

If I lower the car how do I know how much to adjust the springs?

Dampers, how do I use these?

I really want to get into tuning, I've done 1 car already which I'm happy with but after tuning a Renault 5 Turbo for almost 2 hours and feel like I've made very little progress, I think I need some more tips, I can't rely wholly on LSD.

Thanks in advance
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See if this...

https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/help-with-my-vauxhall-opel-vectra-3-2.296265/#post-9168369

and this help...

https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/car-set-up-question.296093/
 
Motor City Hami
I have started my GT6 tuning guide. https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/motor-city-tunes-gt6.291066/#post-9003797

I am currently working through the write up for what each setting does. Hoping to finish it by the end of the weekend.
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I mentioned your guide in my post, I found it extremely helpful so far, beat a few of my best laps just with the LSD changes using the tips you gave.

Thanks for the guide, I'm going to bookmark it and I'll keep checking for updates.
 
LondonSV
I mentioned your guide in my post, I found it extremely helpful so far, beat a few of my best laps just with the LSD changes using the tips you gave.

Thanks for the guide, I'm going to bookmark it and I'll keep checking for updates.
Click to expand...

Oh, sorry. I thought you were referencing the GT5 guide.
 
LondonSV
Thanks, so it's just trial and error to see which works?

I hope they fix this backwards stuff, it's making it hard to learn with not having a solid rule to rely on.
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Out of the 200 cars I've tuned so far in GT6, I think all the MR cars have been backward. I've learned not to make absolute statements online, because someone will be there to prove you wrong.

It only takes one or two quick tests to prove if it's backwards. Just change the ride height so the car is high in the rear and low in the front. If it's a MR car with oversteer, and it improves, you know the ride height and springs are backwards.

I always buy the LSD and change the acceleration (middle number) to 16 before driving a rear drive car.

Even in Forza it is a matter of changing one thing and trying it. Tuning is always trial and error.
 
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We went through all this with GT5 for months and months... The visual affects of ride height are not backwards, the physical affects are...

Simple test:

Go to your garage, pick any car (first unused car I had was BMW Z8)
Add custom suspension
Come back to garage menu where it show you your car
Goto "car settings"
Change front ride height to minimum, rear to max
Exit out and look at your car - it's nose down
Goto settings, put front ride height on max, rear on min
Exit out and look at car - it's nose up..

Repeat every which way you can, you'll always have the same result - "visually" ride height is correct.

However, the physical affects of ride height (in terms of what it does to setups, or the feel / handling etc of the car), THIS is what is wrong i.e."backwards"

In real life, rear higher than front = induce oversteer
In GT6 = understeer / stability / grip

In real lfe, rear lower than front = understeer
In GT6 = oversteer, more turn in

Real life, lower the car = lower centre of gravitity (and generally, improve car's handling)
GT6, lower the car = depending on how much it's lowered & car, tyres etc etc it can make it worse, even with good adjustments to springs, dampers roll bars
It is possible to lower a car (especially production roadcars), make good damper, roll bar & springs changes and have good results.

BUT... what's not right is more noticable on race cars - raise the ride height to max = more all round 'grip'

Exactly the same as start of GT5...
 
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Highlandor
Goto "car settings"
Change front ride height to minimum, rear to max
Exit out (...)

In real life, rear higher than front = induce oversteer
In GT6 = understeer / stability / grip

In real lfe, rear lower than front = understeer
In GT6 = oversteer, more turn in
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If you don't change spring rates accordingly, you'll get random results depending on the RH min/max values...

eg without taking the aero in consideration, spring rates x RH = weigth * weigth distrib /100 (or = original springs rates * original rh if you want a compairison point).

Weigth doesn't change. If you change RH, you must change spring rates.
 
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Thats why I said it is possible to get an improvement if you use good damper, roll bar and spring adjustments, when lowering a car i.e. a small amount 10-30mm, or just use the difference adding custom suspension to a road car gives you - 20mm).

The general point is that raising a car to the max, can "improve" the car, when pretty much the norm for most racecars/modified road cars is to lower them - this is where the "backwards" come into the equation..
 
What Im finding with suspension is one of the first things is taking the roll out. Reducing it seems to help the other elements.
 
I've run into a few cars that are correct. The VW Swimmwagon is one for sure I remember.

Overall, the backwards problem only adds a couple of minutes to the time it takes me to tune. If you want to be fast at tuning, you need to recognize quickly what a car is doing. Then go make one big change and try again. Keep a list, like the one I have posted, next to you. It might be easier for people new to tuning to re-write the list just for the way most GT6 cars are now. So you don't have to do the whole backwards transformation every time in your head. I didn't do that right off the bat because I wanted it apparent that it is backwards.
 
FishHunters
What Im finding with suspension is one of the first things is taking the roll out. Reducing it seems to help the other elements.
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Yes..

But it's difficult when trying to apply something for the huge diversity in cars and to what level they can be tuned /used i.e. different tyres, stock or max PP.

Just using those 3 variables gives a huge number of possibilities..

For me it's always has been about core balance, I've seen quite extensive tests from people who micro analyise each variable, put the best of each together and their car is useless, undrive-able.. But take the right amount of each, and the same car can be well balanced and neutral..

Finding this balance is going to be different - go all the way back to GT5 prologue and look at the Ferrari's:

Cali & 599 = FR
430 & F40= MR

but

Cali and 430 = naturally "stiff"
F40 & 599 = naturally "soft"

Each car / situation needs to be looked at individually, but general processes can be applied and in 9/10 situations cna work sooner or later, but there's usually always 1 exception to "general rules".

For me, it's a process of elimination, keep trying the general rules until it works, exhaust all normal procedures then try more extreme or reverse methods..

What makes it confusing is that in some situations, with some cars, you can run the opposite of the "norm". One type of car that this applies to are the FR 4WD road cars - some of these can 'take' stiff front / soft rear, soft font / stiff rear or even front and rear and still "work".

Some of the FR cars too can work with either soft front and hard rear or vica versa - it can depend on a number of variables 'grip' i.e. tyres being one of them...
 

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