A-Spec 415PP Honda Civic Competition

My problem in this seasonal:

Clubman Special Stage Route 5 -.-


Been there,done that and no result..


Car:


Honda TypeR '08 (stock)



Final Solution:

Some training and unfortunatelly skid recovery force ON.


Result:


More than 1,5 second per lap and easy win..



When we talk about other stages,for me,just stock Honda '08.. Easy wins..


Other cars are not so good to me (Type R's) because in my experience they can't match grip of Honda Civic Type R '08.



Will try Honda Spoon (bought it recently used..)
 
I won the race right after I did the following - up till this point I had tried most of the suggestions (aside from the phone trick) - I use a normal controller, no steering wheel.

I've read and tried everything on this page and it's all pretty unique and different. For some reason there isn't a good explanation of WHY things work on Clubman Stage Route 5 other wise known as CSR5.

I will attempt to do that so that others can understand what is actually keeping them from posting 104.00 laps --

The setups in this game are really made for the user not the car - think about that for a few minutes. When you adjust settings on most of these items - the power, shocks, ride height etc.. you are in the process of creating a car that "Feels" good to YOU.

This doesn't mean it will "Feel good" for others and visa versa. Keep that in mind while building your spec out. I used many settings for this particular race but I will give you the spec I used to win THEN tell you the biggest secret in winning this race.

And remember this feels good to me and it may not feel good for you - so adjust accordingly and remember this isn't the secret to winning this race, we'll discuss that next.

You can win with any of the cars - yes, that matters less then you think it does. I have won it with the RM and Type R 08' - I'll give you my feel goods for the R 08'.
I really didn't purchase much for the car to start with.


Weight (126)
Ballast position (-34)

Computer (ECU Tuning)
Power limiter (84.6%)

Standard Intake Manifold
Standard Air filter
Standard Exhaust Manifold
Standard Catalytic Converter
Sports Exhaust
Mid RPM Range Turbo Kit
Fully Customizable Tranny
Get everything you can (always) in Drivetrain. (Always max this section out)
Suspension Fully Customizable Kit

Breaks (F-6 R-5) *NOTE* most cars for race braking will have more grip or pressure on the front this stops bikes and cars faster without the back end breaking free and is better balanced breaking - others may not like this style - but it's like this in the real world also. Ask anyone that races Bikes which break is most important and they will tell you front..


The Tranny settings:
The only thing I changed on this race after trying a ton of different settings is raise the Final Gear to 6.0 - which makes the top speed 130 (at the top) and 149 (at the bottom) this works best for a number of reasons which I don't think are necessary to discuss here.


Suspension:
Camber Angel (2.4 Front) (0.0 Rear)
Toe Angle ( -0.16 Front) (-0.10 Rear)
RHA (-14 Front) (-12 Rear)
Spring Rate (6.0 Front) (6.0 Rear)
Dampers Ex (6 Front) (4 Rear)
Dampers Comp (3 Front) (4 Rear)
AB - Set both to 5

Here's the secret to winning the race...
The true limiting factors of the race are less in the car and mostly in "Driving Options". Below is a list of MY settings for "Driving Options". I was able to do no better then 2nd position and I spent about 5 hrs running this race (including trying different "feel goods") and as soon as I changed my Driving Options it became very clear this made the biggest difference and I won the race immediately after making the following changes:

Traction Control [2]
Skid Recovery Force [on]
Active Steering [Off]
ASM [Off]
ABS [1]
Steering Sensitivity [-2]

These settings by default make you race with some pretty limiting restrictions, take them away and you feel and ARE much faster. Granted you do need to have some experience driving in this game to be competent enough to win using less (helping restrictions) These restrictions are really for people just starting off in the game but as you become better they actually limit your freedoms to excel in this game.

This one change makes a huge difference in this game and do not over look it or you will be cheating yourself out of many great races. 104.387 was my best lap time without using any "tricks" i.e. "phone call trick" just adjusting the DO settings.

I hope that helps...
 
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This one change makes a huge difference in this game and do not over look it or you will be cheating yourself out of many great races. 104.387 was my best lap time without using any "tricks" just adjusting the DO settings.

I hope that helps...

What a load of rubbish. You arrogantly tell us that you have the secret and it turns out to be SRF! Get real mate. I just wasted 5 minutes reading that. Tuning is not a 'trick'. You also neglect to mention the different lineups and their consequences for making the race winnable. 👎
 
What a load of rubbish. You arrogantly tell us that you have the secret and it turns out to be SRF! Get real mate. I just wasted 5 minutes reading that. Tuning is not a 'trick'. You also neglect to mention the different lineups and their consequences for making the race winnable. 👎


I don't think you understood what I posted, that is obvious by your answer and attitude. My effort to help others understand the game balance is not from arrogance but from my OWN frustration on that particular course and there's no reason other then your own ego and immaturity to misquote me.

The lineups have caused me and others no issues in the game at all, that's probably why you don't see any mention of it in the thread so this to me is a non-sequitur. In this particular race the line up as someone else pointed out here has some rabbits - that's about it... nothing more will add or detract from the so-called lineup factor. In reality, it's a damn Honda Civic race - that's all it is and making more of it is a waste of time and the inability to put the bong down or just have to make life more complex then it really is.

Let me also point out "mate" that no one said that "Tuning was a trick" those are your words not mine. Driving Options are Options not "tuning tricks", there is a difference. That's why I pointed it out and mentioned that tuning alone will get you close or even a win if you are very skilled - however, those having issues that might be newer to the game should try they driving options - it's an important factor for those that might not have tried it - That was the point to my original post and sorry you missed it.

I don't think you speak for the community so I can safely say that I wasn't talking to you or people like you that know everything already - it was aimed at those who were having issues winning that particular race.

Just to reiterate for others on forum I tried to make it clear that it's not the same for everyone and for ME (and others here I noticed) it worked nicely, that doesn't mean that for GT5 gods like yourself and Al Gore (creator of the internetz) anything could improve your life - that much is obvious :)

If you are going to personally attack someone without reason, which really makes a crappy forum to have people like that in it, at least have the rocks to get your facts straight so you don't look like you have emotional problems and also try providing helpful answers so as to negate the absolute worthlessness of your comment, add value to it by giving helpful, insightful answers and not personal attacks based on your own personally abused childhood.
 
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Without getting drawn into arguments can I just add that after getting a little frustrated with CSR5, I tried Rongochen's tune. It didn't work for me immediately but I tinkered with it a little altering the ratio's etc. Although I didn't alter the quick options it did give me the win I was looking for so I'd just like to say thank you.
 
Spent ages going through various Civics with no real gain, dont like FF cars at the best of times, tried the RM thats allowable but still couldnt get it set up for Autumn Ring, best i did was 3rd after many attempts. i dont consider myself too bad at GT but this had butthurt going on. Maybe i just dont get Civics lol :)
After a bit of fettling to setup on the Premium Civic Type R '08 i managed to win +7 secs!!!
So i thought id post my setup if it helps anyone.

- Aero kit A all round
- carbon bonnet
- Alloys
- Oil change!!
- Full weight reduction
- NO POWER TUNING required!
- All trans, drivetrain, suspension mods

Trans: it is! [max:124]
Diff: 10 / 30 / 5
Suspension:
height: -20/-20
springs: 8.7/4.7
ext: 7/5
comp: 6/4
ARBs: 4/3

camber: 1.7/1.2
toe: -0.21/0.10

Aero rear: 5
weight: +150!
balance: all the way to the rear!
[total car weight 1200Kgs]

Engine limiter to around 93% [211 Bhp] [variable]

I finally got the ugly 'lil thing to work for me......
[no offence to Civic luvvers, whatever!]
Hope this might help someone. not an expensive tune either coz no power mods ;)

thanks you XT4lf!! this setting worked for me:tup:
 
I used Hami's tune:

https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?p=7832749#post7832749

with some modifications to fit my driving style. I cannot express how much I hate understeer. I can deal with oversteer & adapt my driving to that, but not with understeer apparently. Turning less sharply or going easier on the throttle is intuitive to me. Understeer makes me feel like I'm fighting the car. I want to turn MORE and I can't! AHHHHH. hehe You get the idea. :D

The idea was to eliminate as much understeer as possible in this car. It helped me to be able to deal with the car and drive it more naturally. This may not work for everyone, but if you're still struggling, it's worth a shot.

My changes are as follows:

Car fully broken in. I was struggling to begin with and the car was almost there anyway, due to the retries, so I finished the job. This is not necessary to do, but if you're already close, you can. You can ease up on the PP changing down below if the car isn't broken in yet.

LSD: 5/5/15
To allow for sharper turning.

Power Limiter: 100%
Hami's tune lowered this to meet the PP requirement. I went about it a different way.

Ballast: 82kg @ position 50
This will get the car to the PP limit, but that's not the main point of it.

Yes, that does actually say to put it at the back of the car. Most everyone was putting ballast at the front, with the idea that the wheels that turn and propel the car would have the most grip. This makes perfect sense and should actually be the way to go, but I've found that it feels like it puts too much pressure on the front tires and makes it harder to turn it. Much in the way that carrying 4 cinder blocks would make it hard to walk. Sure you have great traction, but you're being dragged down.

Putting the ballast at the back, like I did, seemed to take a little of that pressure off. What it really seems to do, in my opinion, is it helps the back end of the car swing around a little quicker. While the front wheels are turning and pulling it. Before I did this, it felt like the front wheels wanted to turn, but the back wheels wanted to go straight, like a train on a track. It felt like the car was fighting itself.

With this setup, I was able to feel like I was driving the car, rather than fighting it. No, it won't make the Clubman Stage easy. That one is going to be the one that you need to use all of your good driving skills (you have been practicing those, right?) to get smooth lap times.

I will say that, for me and my driving style, making these changes made it easier to get the most out of each turn and it wasn't so much of a battle.

Obviously change the Final Gear on the transmission for each track, so that you're not quite hitting the limit. For Autumn Ring Mini & Tsukuba it needs to go all the way full right. More acceleration, less top speed. For the others it needs to come down close to Hami's.

Because of the changes that I made to the car, I actually put it more to the right that he had set up for CSR5. It gave me more accel during the curvy parts without killing the top speed on the straight. Experiment for what works for you, if you try this.

Like I said, this may not work for everyone, but I was able to nail 4 of the 5 tracks well with this setup. The CSR5 is just a pain in the booty no matter what you use apparently. :D
 
Lengthy rant


Having only just stumbled upon this, to be fair to Clive, you did, and still do in your post, state that SRF is basically the 'secret' to winning, which as he said, is madness.

SRF makes things easier, sure, but it's not needed, and if you're not a seasoned player and struggle, telling someone to switch SRF on is bad advice. No one will ever learn how to swim if they are always wearing inflatable armbands. In exatcly the same way, no one will be able to improve their driving by using a totally different physics system that essentially cheats by adding grip to the car in impossible situations.
 
Hey all, my first post. Just joined a few days ago.

So for you button mashers' out there, I'm one, haven't committed to a wheel yet (getting the Thrustmaster t500rs as soon as the mancave and racing simulator are set up). DS3 users here's my set up and tune for the Honda Civic seasonal.

Granted I do have a slight OCD and the seasonal's is where I like to take a new premium car and get it broken in properly and do my tuning tweeks while making some serious dough.

Honda Civic Type R '08 (Vivid Blue Pearl) tune: from 0.0 - 196.4 miles in this seasonal.

Max Pwr: 221 Weight: 1255kg PP: 415*

Installed Parts:
-Window Weight Reduction**
-Carbon Hood**
-Fully Customizable Tranny
-Clutch Twin Plate
-Flywheel: Semi-Racing
-Adjustable LSD
-Height-Adjustable Sports Kit Suspension

Suspension:
Ride Height: F -5 / R -5
Spring Rate: F 5.1 /R 3.2
Dampers: F 2 / R 2
Anti-Roll F 1 / R 1
Toe: F 0.0 / R 0.20

***LSD:
Initial Torque: 5
Acceleration Sense: 16
Braking Sense: 6

Brake Balance:
F 6 / R 5

Weight Adjustment:
0 / 0

Power Limit:
100%

Tranny: **
1st: 2.848
2nd: 2.000
3rd: 1.497
4th: 1.172
5th: 0.960
6th: 0.823
Final: 5.079
Top: 240 kph

* Your PP will gain as car "break's in"
** purchased and tuned just for Special Stage Route 5, I was struggling with 4th place finish's
*** "opening" up or "unlocking" the LSD is "key" in FF car's it makes them looser or give's them an oversteer tendancy, FF car's are notorious for understeer

Good Luck all, Also I have a BMW Concept Series 1 tii '07 ticket for any takers, I got one good and dialed in already. My PSN name is my username on this board "RizingPhoenix," I was one of the first 2000 PSN user's back in 2005 I was a pre-release PS3 tester in a previous life.👍

I used your setup with the exception of the transmission, full race trans set to 134mph, I didnt mess with the gear ratios. I also used another posts driving aids reccomendations- TC=2, SRF=on, AS=off, ASM=off, ABS=1, SS= -2. I probably attempted this track a few dozen times and never getting higher than 2nd. With your setup I was able to get 1st on the very first attempt, passing the lead car before I entered the tunnel turn at the end and winning by 3.94 seconds. My laps were 1.08, 1.06, 1.03, 1.04, 1.03. Thanks for the help.
 
I found it strange that everybody is struggling with the Eiffel track. I'm a medium driver with a pad and this was the only track i got it right at the first attempt, with 5s lead.

Best lap time was 59.9s.

Maybe my setup was tayllored for this track?

Here it is:

Civic ek rm 97

Aero 15/5
Weight 175kg at 42 position
Motor tuned to 199hp ( no turbo, just titanium exhaust)
Gearbox
1. 3.7
2. 2.6
3. 2.0
4. 1.6
5. 1.3
6. 1.1
Final 4.400

LSD 8-20-5

Suspension

-20 -20

4.0 4.5
7 5
6 4
3 4

Camber
2.0 1.7
Toe
-0.20 -0.05

Brakes
5 6
 
Having only just stumbled upon this, to be fair to Clive, you did, and still do in your post, state that SRF is basically the 'secret' to winning, which as he said, is madness.

SRF makes things easier, sure, but it's not needed, and if you're not a seasoned player and struggle, telling someone to switch SRF on is bad advice. No one will ever learn how to swim if they are always wearing inflatable armbands. In exatcly the same way, no one will be able to improve their driving by using a totally different physics system that essentially cheats by adding grip to the car in impossible situations.

Isn't SRF locked on anyway? ABS defaults to 1. The only real adjustment made in driving options was made to Steering Sensitivity and Traction Control.
 
It's a little late, but here's a video of CSS 5 reverse done at 405pp with no aids and no ABS. With SRF on, ABS on and less patience with the AI, this could be done below 390pp I reckon.

If you use this tune and just up the power to make 415pp, and with SRF on, anyone struggling with this event may find this helpful. Try and watch the apex speeds in the video and how the tune tugs the car round a corner under acceleration.





Perfect tune...finally won this....thanks a lot
 
Isn't SRF locked on anyway? ABS defaults to 1. The only real adjustment made in driving options was made to Steering Sensitivity and Traction Control.

It isn't. Its a slightly old event, made before they started forcing it on. Alot of people used SRF anyway, which surprises me. I used a '08 Civic Type R, but I still won the events without anything but abs. I had the most trouble with Clubman Stage Route 5 like alot of people. The first time I won it, it was by a margin of 0.0013 seconds ahead. Times at least got better the next few times I did it, it was kind of a rough event.
 
I won the race right after I did the following - up till this point I had tried most of the suggestions (aside from the phone trick) - I use a normal controller, no steering wheel.

I've read and tried everything on this page and it's all pretty unique and different. For some reason there isn't a good explanation of WHY things work on Clubman Stage Route 5 other wise known as CSR5.

I will attempt to do that so that others can understand what is actually keeping them from posting 104.00 laps --

The setups in this game are really made for the user not the car - think about that for a few minutes. When you adjust settings on most of these items - the power, shocks, ride height etc.. you are in the process of creating a car that "Feels" good to YOU.

This doesn't mean it will "Feel good" for others and visa versa. Keep that in mind while building your spec out. I used many settings for this particular race but I will give you the spec I used to win THEN tell you the biggest secret in winning this race.

And remember this feels good to me and it may not feel good for you - so adjust accordingly and remember this isn't the secret to winning this race, we'll discuss that next.

You can win with any of the cars - yes, that matters less then you think it does. I have won it with the RM and Type R 08' - I'll give you my feel goods for the R 08'.
I really didn't purchase much for the car to start with.


Weight (126)
Ballast position (-34)

Computer (ECU Tuning)
Power limiter (84.6%)

Standard Intake Manifold
Standard Air filter
Standard Exhaust Manifold
Standard Catalytic Converter
Sports Exhaust
Mid RPM Range Turbo Kit
Fully Customizable Tranny
Get everything you can (always) in Drivetrain. (Always max this section out)
Suspension Fully Customizable Kit

Breaks (F-6 R-5) *NOTE* most cars for race braking will have more grip or pressure on the front this stops bikes and cars faster without the back end breaking free and is better balanced breaking - others may not like this style - but it's like this in the real world also. Ask anyone that races Bikes which break is most important and they will tell you front..


The Tranny settings:
The only thing I changed on this race after trying a ton of different settings is raise the Final Gear to 6.0 - which makes the top speed 130 (at the top) and 149 (at the bottom) this works best for a number of reasons which I don't think are necessary to discuss here.


Suspension:
Camber Angel (2.4 Front) (0.0 Rear)
Toe Angle ( -0.16 Front) (-0.10 Rear)
RHA (-14 Front) (-12 Rear)
Spring Rate (6.0 Front) (6.0 Rear)
Dampers Ex (6 Front) (4 Rear)
Dampers Comp (3 Front) (4 Rear)
AB - Set both to 5

Here's the secret to winning the race...
The true limiting factors of the race are less in the car and mostly in "Driving Options". Below is a list of MY settings for "Driving Options". I was able to do no better then 2nd position and I spent about 5 hrs running this race (including trying different "feel goods") and as soon as I changed my Driving Options it became very clear this made the biggest difference and I won the race immediately after making the following changes:

Traction Control [2]
Skid Recovery Force [on]
Active Steering [Off]
ASM [Off]
ABS [1]
Steering Sensitivity [-2]

These settings by default make you race with some pretty limiting restrictions, take them away and you feel and ARE much faster. Granted you do need to have some experience driving in this game to be competent enough to win using less (helping restrictions) These restrictions are really for people just starting off in the game but as you become better they actually limit your freedoms to excel in this game.

This one change makes a huge difference in this game and do not over look it or you will be cheating yourself out of many great races. 104.387 was my best lap time without using any "tricks" i.e. "phone call trick" just adjusting the DO settings.

I hope that helps...
Thank You for your post. I finally WON CSR5,it was the last one I needed. I took the lead at the beginning of 5th lap, best before was 4th place. You Rock!!! 👍:cheers:
 
I must have tried the SSR race 20 times using the 08 Civic, with the closest having my nose alongside the first place AI's backend. Very frustrating. Last night I decided I really wanted to get the Gathers Drider Civic (I've never seen it my UCD), so tried with SRF. Still couldn't do it after two attempts, then I noticed the car was at 410pp, so upped the power added a bit more ballast to get on 415pp and got an easy win. I feel a bit grubby having resorted to SRF :guilty: but it had been bugging me for ages and now I finally have the Gathers Civic. And I got a Ticket 1000 :).
 
My problem in this seasonal:

Clubman Special Stage Route 5 -.-

Been there,done that and no result..

Car:

Honda TypeR '08 (stock)

Final Solution:

Some training and unfortunatelly skid recovery force ON.

Result:

More than 1,5 second per lap and easy win..

When we talk about other stages,for me,just stock Honda '08.. Easy wins..

Other cars are not so good to me (Type R's) because in my experience they can't match grip of Honda Civic Type R '08.

Will try Honda Spoon (bought it recently used..)

2nd attempt win
 
Well, made some adjustments to my Type-R EK RM and just finished 3rd and 2.8 seconds behind the leader. Getting closer in this SR5 race. Sheesh, I've still gotta do the last race in this Seasonal yet...

Been using your suspension and LSD settings on my 04 Type-R w/o traction control and skid recovery force. A couple hours and a bad case of Nintendo Thumb later, I have beaten everything but Autumn Ring. With the LSD set up the way it is you actually power into the turns with the throttle to bring out the vehicle's grip, but you need to be careful about that as to not understeer into the grass. Whats making it even trickier is that I have been using the manual transmission for that race because I feel that I need to use the extra engine braking to power through the turns to catch me up to those Type-Rs. But I keep tricking myself with doing that and trying to power the thing too to keep it grippy. Its very tricky.
Man you tuner guys are great, I'm an old guy in my 60's and was around more of the gentlemanly racing and your tune allowed me to drive the way I like to drive, Clean, Can't believe some advice, cut through grass, crash into wall, dive bomb, your tune allowed me to enjoy the whole series ,Civic, and aced all races after many many attempts. Thanks my friend aced them all with laps left.
 
I`ve been trying to win it with the 79 Civic and im always coming in second ???

Any good tunage ideas ??
Thx
 
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