Absolute beginners guide when stuck off line

  • Thread starter Thread starter thebluesman
  • 33 comments
  • 4,199 views
T

thebluesman

Messages
17
So you want to get started – just bought the game, and the PSN is down. So no seasonals, no easy money. And you only bought the basic game – no chromeline cars for a quick start.
And you just want to race – no time for the licences (yet).

Time to play the game as Kaz intended – just buy a car, and work your way up. But which car?

Here is a path that works.
It’s intended to get you a great start – a single car that works well, usable for a number of races, steadily upgrading, and along the way teaching you where to start with upgrades, how an upgrade changes a car, and giving some early insight into the more common tracks.

Start with - a Suzuki Swift Sport ‘05. $16,200. It handles well stock, and improves significantly with upgrades.
BHP starts at 119.
Then do an oil change - $250, BHP now 125. (yes, always do an oil change when you buy a car – it increases BHP by ~5% on a new car, ~10% on a used car).
Then a racing air filter - $450 ((BHP now 129)
Then add a catalytic converter - $500 (BHP now 134)
Then upgrade the ECU - $1000 (BHP now 142).
Note – these 3 upgrades will become your standard set – cheap and easy power upgrades.

Now do your first race. Sunday Cup, autumn ring mini. Try to do it with Traction control off, skid recovery off, ABS at 1, and in manual. It’s better to get used to all this early – it also makes it easier to feel the upgrades. Looking for a time around 48seconds. Of course, you win! Another $4100, level 1 and a kart.
Now – add the height adjustable suspension for $4500 – leaving $1200. Lower the ride height to -5 front and rear, camber to 1.2 front, 0.6 rear (you will get used to doing this – a fairly good beginning setting).
Now – race the same track again -Ring mini. Feel the difference in the handling – better turn-in, more sure footed in the corners. Get used to feeling these differences.
You win again! Around 47sec this time. And now you have $5300.
On to the next track – Grand Valley. Race it with your current setup. – looking for a final lap around 1m26sec. Again it should feel more planted than when you started, driving through the corners quicker than the opposition. Another win – another $4100. So now you have $9400 – rich!. Time to try the next upgrade – sports soft tires for $8000. (for most street cars, this is all the tire you need – good handling, but still with handling characteristics obvious.
So – race the same track again, Grand Valley. You will find it sticks around the corners far better, and you will be ~4sec per lap quicker – now much faster than the opposition. You can start to tuck inside some of the others on some corners, pass around the outside on others.
Another $4100 takes you to $5500. Time for some more upgrades.
Sports intake - $2500 – BHP now 146. Stage 1 engine upgrade - $2500 – BHP now 156. That’s cooking! (While here, take the time to spend the last $500 – buy another catalytic converter, which will go into your parts bin. By doing this, you will have no money left – and will get the ‘penniless trophy’. Much better to get it now, than when you have lots more money….).
On to Tsukuba. This is a track you will race often, so time to get used to it. Race it the first time, looking for a final lap of 1.08. Use the money to add a sports exhaust ($1500 – time to hear a sports exhaust noise), taking you to 161 BHP. Race again, this time trying different lines, especially a later apex on the last long sweeper. Look for 1.07.
As this is a track you will race often – race it once more (this time, spend time looking at your instruments – note the gear indicator flashes near your braking point – but it is often too early for a well set up car). You will now have $10,800, and will be at level 4.
Time for another upgrade to take you through the next races. Add the mid range turbo for $10,000, which will take you to 194BHP. With this setup, you can easily win the next two challenges.
So now the FF Challenge.
Look for Suzuka last lap in 59sec (try to get a flow through the twisty sections – you will race this frequently), Special Stage 5 in 1.04, deep forest 1.29. You now have $13,100, are at level 5, and have raced a number of the regular tracks.

And now the World Compact championship. This is your first ‘championship’ challenge, where you have to race all races consecutively. So get ready! Fortunately, you now have a well prepared car, and are getting used and thus confident with the handling, so should have no problem getting gold in all 3. Look for final laps of 1.40 at London, 1.00 at Madrid, 1.00 at Cape ring.
The rewards are good – although only $3670 per race, this gets doubled when you finish all three and win the championship. So after all this, you will have $35,110 in the bank, be at level 6, and have a quick reliable car.
You will have started to notice, since adding the turbo, that you are getting some wheelspin out of the corners (in a Suzuki Swift!). So – time for another upgrade. Time to add one of the major tuning secrets in GT5, the LSD. There are many discussions on this – enough to say this transforms the handling of many cars. SO add this ($7500) and set it up – 9 initial, 20 acceleration, 5 braking. This is a reasonably common setup for lower horsepower front wheel drive cars.
Also – do another oil change. Although this won’t make a big difference at the moment, it is worth remembering to do after every series, to keep you horsepower up.
Total now - $27,360.
Time for a big jump – into the Amateur series. You and your car should be ready for this by now. Enter the Clubman Cup – another championship series. This will be a little closer than previous races – however is still easily winnable with the Suzuki.
Firstly -Tsukuba. With the turbo and LSD, you will now lap at ~1.05. Then Tokyo (a regular track with faster cars), lapping at 2.06, then cape ring, lapping at 1.52.

After you have won all these, you will have $61,370, be at level 8, have a Vitz (for the Vitz challenge), the racing Honda Mugen Civic (a really fast race car – worth repeating the Clubman Cup just to race it), and starting to understand how upgrades change a car. All ready for the next step.

Good luck!
 
Yep, well done. Some other advice for early good money is to do your special events as soon as possible. You get much better money from these compared to the early races. You'll have more than enough money to do any mods you need...
 
Nice idea , but doing the license tests even at bronze gives you a car plus the XP. Therefore you don't need to buy a car until you need a specific model.
 
No time for licenses? :confused: But that is the best way to start on GT5! You level up in A-Spec and are awarded with some helpful cars! If you have time for races, then you have time for licenses. You need to crawl before you walk, and walk before you run. ;)

/Other than that, keep up the good work. :cheers:
 
Nice guide but you may want to include a note that says something like the following for when your buying your first car if people are super interested in trophies. I got really lucky and ended up having an even amount later in the game and was able to get the "Penniless" trophy but for starters this could be useful.

Dealerships -> Mazda -> Eunos Roadster J-Limited (NA) '91 - 19,000
Tuning Shop -> Engine -> Sports ECU - 1,000
 
Appreciate the time taken to type that lot. Good on you matey. Nice guide...👍

I dont want to hijack your thread and go off topic but a quick question for you on LSD. You say "set it up – 9 initial, 20 acceleration, 5 braking. This is a reasonably common setup for lower horsepower front wheel drive cars".

What in your opinion is a set up for a higher powered vehicles?

:)
 
Hi. Thanks everyone for the positive comments and encouragement. It's been fun starting to get this worked out.
My perspective is more a driver than a gamer - using GT5 as a simulation to drive a number of cars, and get used to setting them up. Add to that a bit of 'race craft', and I'm really enjoying the game. What I enjoy is winning tight races, usually in an underpowered but well handling car - preferably something I've had to test to get the setups right. When I started I was frustrated by how easy it was to make a wrong car choice, and be put backwards a long way in the $$ stakes, rather than advancing reasonably quickly to a point now where I can pick and choose what I want to race, and where.
This will also explain the use of new cars - it eliminates the lotto of the UCD in the early phases.

My thoughts on the licences. They require significant time investment to get a small reward (in terms of XP), and an average car. The same time spent racing the Mugen Honda in the Clubman Cup will yield both more $$ (more than the price of the car you win), more experience (XP), and give you the opportunity to test multiple setups - so learning along the way. Although there are a few gems in the licence tests (such as the right racing line for particular corners), they are few and far between. It is not until the later licences that better cars become available. I admit there are some good cars if you can Gold a series - however this is often very hard to do, and requires considerable time, that could as well or better be spent racing.
If the licences were instead call 'driver coaching', and had more specific coaching in them (eg 'you have too much wheelspin off the line' in the braking test', and 'you need to hold smoother lines' in the slalom), then they would be of more use.

The special events. I will move to these once I have a few more cars, more XP, and need the extra money. I find it good to get used to the 'physics' of the driving simulation first, to become confident with driving in the game, before moving to the special tests. Also, in the karting, as the driving style is very specific, it is good to do the beginner and intermediate together.

In some ways this approach mirrors real life racing - you just want to get out there, with a small amount of advice to avoid the obvious pitfalls, get to enjoy racing as soon as possible, and then come back for a little more instruction and direction, while learning you way around a car and a track.

Maximum enjoyment, maximum seat time, minimize stress from wrong decisions.

:cheers:
 
Last edited:
I would start it a different way: buy a '95 Cappuccino rather than the Swift. Then hit the license tests first, you can run the B, then C, then the K-Cup, then the IC license.

The K-cup is the only place you'll drive the Cappuccino, but you can't win a car that will qualify for that race.

When you're done with the above, you have an Acura DN-X concept and haven't spent any money at all. The DN-X should dominate the Beginner tier of races that it qualifies for, without adding any money.

Do the licenses when you have the level, and you'll get the Roadster (IB), the truck (IA), and a decent tuner S2000.

On a second run-through in the game, I'm currently level 21 and have bought 6 cars: '95 Cappiccino, '07 Mini, '08 Gallardo, '07 Scuderia, NASCAR, and '64 Ginetta (which I could have skipped, but it's a fun little car to drive). At this point, I've spent 23000 on modifying cars (plus a fully modded G4... what can I say, it's a fun car), and completed the first 3 tiers of races. I should be able to complete a-spec with buying just two more cars: a touring car, and a Formula GT.

You can also use B-spec to make things even easier, once you get the Furai, then the Zonda R
 
Am I the only one who started with a Miata?

IMO it's the best first car hands down - my first choice in ever racing game.
 
I also started with a Miata - same goes for GT3 & 4. In GT2 I started with an FTO.

I still have to respectfully disagree with the OP's attitude towards license tests. I think they are very important for beginners and although I get that they don't "move along progress" the way you see it, you really should learn how to drive/race properly before you enter into any events. Sure, you might not buy a Gallardo as quickly, but you won't be smashing up cars or leaning on performance advantages either.
 
iamsupernasty
Am I the only one who started with a Miata?

IMO it's the best first car hands down - my first choice in ever racing game.
Click to expand...

The only reason I don't suggest it is because you win one from license tests... although, in the end, what's one extra Miata in your garage? :)
 
The next session.
OK! Enough talking - time for some more racing.

You have your very first race car, the Honda Mugen Motel Civic. Racing hard tires, aero, fully adjustable suspension, drivetrain and transmission - almost everything you want.
So - reward yourself, take it for a drive. As you have just run the Clubman Cup, and the Honda is eligible, run this again. You will have a direct comparison between the Swift and the Honda, and can the different racing lines you can take with a well set up race car.

Remember the drill however: replace the oil, and check your settings.
Even though this is a race car, and will be very fast just as it is delivered to you, it can quite easily be made quicker again. So let me give you some settings to start with (it will be a little faster than standard, and easy to drive).
Aero - 15 front, 30 rear.
Transmission to max 240 (note - it is good to adjust this for each track eventually - 220 for Tsukuba, 250 for Tokyo for example - however for now, as the car is quick enough to win, just run a single setting).
LSD 14/30/5 (Major Rash, this may help you).
Suspension height -15/-15, springs 7.4/5.2 (front/rear)
Shock 8/8 extension, 8/8 compression
Anti-roll 4/6.
Brakes 6/5.
That should be drivable, good turn in, with just a hint of understeer.
Now, out to the track.
Tsukuba - look for 1.03 lap time. While out this time, look for the paved run-off areas (ie places you can run wide and still have good traction) - particularly to the left jut before the finish line (allows a much wider exit from the sweeper).
Tokyo - look for 1.59 (note - in touring cars you will see 1.30, in the X1 below 1 minute - so start to learn this track well!)
Cape Ring - look for 1.49. For this track, see which ripple strips give you an advantage, and which ones don't - valuable lessons for later races.

So - with the championship bonus, you now have $95,380, and are already at level 10. A great start in such a short time.

What would you like to do next? More front wheel drive, or try rear wheel drive, and try more power?

How about some American Muscle?
Yep, go for it.
This is the other end of the spectrum - rear wheel drive, lots of power, lazy handling - all again aspects of the driving simulation to get used to.

Time for the 'Classic Muscle Car Championship', in the Amateur series.
The car - a classic 1969 Chevrolet Z28 Camaro. A steal at $65,000 in the new car dealership.
281HP standard.
After the standard additions (oil change, ECU, Sports air filter, and Catalytic converter) it is 338BHP. Add a sports exhaust (only $1500 for a far better exhaust note 0 this is V8 time....) and you have 350BHP, and still $26,680 in the bank.
Out to the track - Autodromo Monza. This is another track you will spend significant time on, so learn it well.
Just before you start, set the traction control to 3. Given this is your first time in a muscle car, it's OK to dial in a little assistance while you get used to it. In the future, much (but not all) of the wheelspin will be managed by a LSD.
OK -drive! Keep it smooth through the corners, use all the track, and squeeze rather than stamp the accelerator, and short shift coming out of some corners rather than revving out (to avoid wheel spin).
Note - as you don't have an adjustable gearbox, you will top out in 4th gear on the main straight. This is OK - you should still manage to win.
Look for a lap time of 2.11. You may need to cut through the second 'S' to give you a slight edge.
A reasonably easy win - now up to $38,820.
Now - set the traction control to 0, and drive the track again. You should still be able to win, in much the same time - you just need to be gentle with the accelerator, and short shift in some corner exits.

You now have $50,960, and are at level 11.

While you have started to get used to the car, it's time for one more race series. Go back to the Beginners group, and race the FR series.
You should win this reasonably easily without any further modifications. It's also a good test - these tracks are considerably tighter than Monza, with more undulations - so a good test on how smooth you are with steering, brake, and accelerator.
Times you are looking for:
Grand Valley East - 1.18
Tsukuba - 1.07
Trial Mountain - 1.46.
Note that these times will win you the races - a second or more quicker on each one is achievable.

Now back up to $74,810, and reached level 11.

This is far from a traditional way of starting this game. However, for me, it is fun, all about racing, maximum track time, and learning skills along the way that will set you up for later in the game.

Have fun.

:cheers::cheers:
 
Hi.
Racer39658 - excellent post!. I was wondering if I should do a third run through, using the 'licence route' - looks like you have done that and documented it - great work.
I'm trying to help get beginners up to the extreme level as fast (and with as much fun) as possible, learning along the way, so the money flows freely, and then they can relax, race what they want, and continue learning at a more sedate pace.
I'm also having fun working this out -driving a few cars before settling on the next step.
Hopefully a few others will post their 'quick method' to get to extreme, to give beginners a few choices.
Cheers.
 
And now for the third session.

It's time to step up the pace, and pick up some money to get into a really fast cars, and some fast events.

Let's start with the Buick Special. Although a '62, its a Sema show special - so not eligible for the classic muscle car race that you won it in. Hmmm.
Oh well - let's just put it in the Muscle Car championship on the Professional Series.

Now at 588 BHP to start with, this is a beast. However it is a handful to drive - needs more stopping distance than a supertanker, and has about the same turn in understeer......
To make it vaguely drivable, as well as oil change, Sports Air filter, Cat converter and Sports exhaust (taking it to 622 BHP) add in the Height adjustable suspension, and racing hard tires. (You can just win on the Sports Soft - a lot more work though).
Drop the ride height to -5, and set camber to 1.0 and 0.5 - slightly better turn in. Leave the TC at 1, and ABS at 1.

Out to the track.
You will need to drive this beast carefully - squeezing rather than stamping the accelerator, and only once pointed in a straight line.
Daytona laps in 1.59, Laguna Seca 1.37 (I never tire of this track).

Excellent - Back to $87,210, and now at level 12.

Level 12 is the trigger to start the special events - you can run events back to back, getting used to driving the cars, and getting both good experience points, and lots of money.

So, to the karting.
You should have a kart in your truck (I forgot - so I bought one - only $5k). You will need to select this before you start the kart races.

The karts are really twitchy when you first drive them - sort of like a real one (although they are not quite this twitchy). So you need very small steering inputs. Additionally, you need smooth wheel movements, holding your line through corners.
You rarely need to brake - mostly (if you have the driving line on) you only have to lift at the red braking points, rather than brake.

The beginner series you should win easily.
The intermediate is a little harder.
On the first track - just hold it flat - never brake, just steer. You will win, even though the AI drivers might seem to get near you at the finish line on the first few laps.
You may also pick up the 'human stopwatch' trophy, for almost equal lap time (this is usually your best chance until you get to Indy).
On the second track you should drive away - again lifting rather than braking. You can finish up to half a lap ahead.

That's 13,000 per race for beginners, 40,000 for intermediate.
So you now have $188,210 and are at level 13.

Now for the AMG challenge - another special event.
This is around the Nurburgring - a track I really enjoy, particularly in fast cars. It's a track you want to start learning as soon as possible - and this is a good time. In these challenges, start to try to remember the track, and really push the limits - jump a few curbs, allow a little sliding in the corners.

Start with the Mercedes AMG beginner series - it's in a surprisingly fast and well planted Mercedes '54 300 SL Coupe. The aim is to get silver in all events - fairly easily possible if you have achieved the times in the posts above.
A few hints - set the TC to 1, and let the car rev out (the redline starts at 6, but it revs to 7 - so let it get close to 7 before changing, given that it is only a 4 speed box). Also, allow for a little slide in some corners.

Well - all 5 at silver. an extra $95,000 and 8500 XP - so now at $283,210, and level 14. Awesome.

Next?

Go straight to the intermediate Mercedes AMG series. You now are starting to get a feel for the track, and so time to consolidate your knowledge. This is a much faster car, an SLS AMG. Suddenly it all happens much quicker.
Again TC to 1. The displayed redline is more accurate this time - so again change around 7k.
The aim here for now is bronze. You may get close to all silver, and you will eventually come back to get the silvers, because the prize car is a great 190E. So if you find you are close, do the session a few more times to get your silvers.

All bronze is another $95,000 and 8,000 XP. So you are now at $378,210, and over half way through level 14.
Richer than you have ever been.

So what to buy next? Something really quick.........

More in the next post.

:cheers::cheers:
 
Last edited:
Time for the fourth session.

I promised a fast car - so yes, time to buy your first supercar, a Ferrari -the 430 Scuderia '07 to be precise. $302,500 at your (very) friendly new car dealership.

With this, it's time to step up a notch with your driving. This car needs careful driving, and a number of upgrades - however with all these you can do at least 4 series with the car. So all well worth it. The order you do these races depends on how confident you are feeling. If you have been making the times posted, then simply follow this in the order presented. However, if you have been struggling up to now, it may pay to do the Festival Italia first, so you can add more to the car before attempting the harder races.

To GT Auto. First, change the oil. However this time, while in this area, add some aero - front and back. It's over $36K, however well worth it to get this car handling.
Now in to the parts, and add the standard ECU, Cat converter, and Sports air filter. Add to this a stage 1 engine upgrade, sports soft tires, and a fully adjustable suspension. Finally, squeeze in a stage 1 weight reduction - only $510 left. However BHP now 568.
You will need to tune this carefully. Aero to 15/40, Suspension height -15/-14, Springs 11/12, shocks 4/4 ext, 2/2 compression, anti-roll bar 4/5, camber 1.8/1.4, toe -0.12/0.00. This tune is a good place to start, and improves with the addition of more parts.

To the track - the Supercar festival. This will really test you. Note - if you are struggling, simply upgrade the parts from the list below with prize money you gain, and run the event again. In time, fully upgraded, you will win.

High speed ring - looking for 1.11 lap time. $17,810.
Now add in stage 2 engine upgrade (now 603 HP).

To Daytona (note - take the rear wing back to 30 for this race). Looking for a 45sec lap, and a tight win.
Now add in the LSD, titanium exhaust, and sports intake - now 643 BHP.
Tune the LSD to 8/45/5.

To Nurburgring GP/F. A little easier now - looking for 2.09 lap time.
You've won the series! Tough, but worth the fight, and you are getting used to the car. $17,410 and now at level 15.

Now, on to La Festa Cavallino. (Remember to set the wing back 40). You will find you have to drive Monza just as hard as with the last series, and probably have to cut the second 'S' to get your win. This time, you are looking for a 1.50 lap to win.

As you now have $45,810, it's time to add racing soft tires ($36k). Seems excessive, doesn't it. Well, only one way to find out - drive Monza again. Suddenly the car really starts to come together - shorter braking distances, better turn in, good acceleration grip, holds better lateral G's - getting to feel like a race car. And the times better too - by around 4 seconds. Now $38,210, and level 15.

Now, you are starting to feel confident in the car, it's getting close to driving like a race car, and it should manage the Gran Turismo World Championship. A big ask against race cars - and can be done.

Time for the last two upgrades - fully adjustable gearbox ($20k) and stage 2 weight reduction. Only $8,210 left.

To feel the car in full flight, before entering the championship, drive the Festival Italia. You are seriously overpowered for this. That's OK - you are trying out the setup on some tight circuits, getting confident with the car. You will notice it has some nice gentle 'lift off turn in' - a very useful feature in the tight areas. However you need to watch this - if you lift off too early in an S bend, you can end up over-turning into the first curve, and then struggling to make the second. There are a couple of places on Rome you can feel this in action.

A quick two races on the festival Italia, and you are now up to $32,490, and ready for the big time - a full 5 race championship in a fully spec'ed car. You will need 45 minutes of serious concentration to complete and win this, so make sure you are comfortable and psyched.

La Sarthe - 4.05/3.55 times, Gearbox at 340, you may need to cut the last corner to win.
Nurburgring - Looking for around 7.10. Gearbox at 320. Be patient passing the cars, or you could end up nudged off the circuit. (you will be pleased you did the AMG challenge - similar lap time, similar handling).
Madrid - - 1.23 laps, gearbox 290. Should be an easy win.
Cape ring - 2.34, gearbox 320. Again, fairly easy.
Grand Valley - 1.52, Gearbox 320. Take it easy through the first left at the end of the main straight - you end up very light just as you start to brake (and can end up spinning easily) - so brake early and lightly, keep as straight as possible, and turn in to the right hander late.

Winning all this, with the extra $107,000 for the championship, gives you a total of $246,490, and part way through level 17.

A great effort - and well on the way to extreme. Pat yourself on the back, take a breather, and contemplate your next move....
:cheers::cheers:
 
thebluesman
Hi.
Racer39658 - excellent post!. I was wondering if I should do a third run through, using the 'licence route' - looks like you have done that and documented it - great work.
I'm trying to help get beginners up to the extreme level as fast (and with as much fun) as possible, learning along the way, so the money flows freely, and then they can relax, race what they want, and continue learning at a more sedate pace.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I went with the "as cheap as possible" route. I race the race in the stock car (no oil or anything), then add parts if I don't win, trying to erase the car's biggests deficiency (IE a little power on the 91 Roadster in the miata race, or Sport Soft tires on the Hommell for the Hot Hatch race). I'm done with the first 3 tiers, and into the Expert races, with a couple of Extreme for the car (ran NASCAR for my classic muscle car, European challenge for the Audi for the German car races.)

I do slightly disagree with you about the licenses... aside from useful cars and decent xp, they teach you important things about the racing line that actually make you spend less money modding your car to win. And just getting bronze awards gives you some decent and useful cars, like the DN-X, '91 Roadster, and '04 Ram for the truck race. Although I know you're setting this up skipping a lot of the one-make races to get to higher level quicker, skipping them does take away the chance for a nice level-x ticket car.

(without b-spec, Bob needs a whole lot more parts on the car to win)
 
Last edited:
I really like your guide. I wish I would have seen it before I started but I think I'm doing well. In about 2 weeks I've moved up to expert(level 16) Aspec, (level7) Bspec, with more cars than I need, but yet not enough. :sly: . I started with the licenses. Then bought a kart, that was a bad idea because you can easily win one and by that point I believe I started with a Honda s2000 as my first car that I bought and raced with.

Anyway I would like to know what you would recommend for the rally races?
I tried the first set with a Civic type r maxed at the 249hp limit and won but it did feel right. It might have been my setup. But what would you recommend for a good car and a good starter setting for a FF/FR/AWD?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
And then once you make the money back later you can buy a second F430 Scuderia and leave it untouched, as it handles like an absolute DREAM right out of the dealership, and you'll never know if you upgraded it without driving it first.

Sorry I know that's off-topic but I couldn't help but type what you made me think... and it's never far from my brain as I've tuned mine and REALLY miss the way it used to be :).
 
thebluesman
So you want to get started – just bought the game, and the PSN is down. So no seasonals, no easy money. And you only bought the basic game – no chromeline cars for a quick start.
And you just want to race – no time for the licences (yet).

Time to play the game as Kaz intended – just buy a car, and work your way up. But which car?

Here is a path that works.
It’s intended to get you a great start – a single car that works well, usable for a number of races, steadily upgrading, and along the way teaching you where to start with upgrades, how an upgrade changes a car, and giving some early insight into the more common tracks.

Start with - a Suzuki Swift Sport ‘05. $16,200. It handles well stock, and improves significantly with upgrades.
BHP starts at 119.
Then do an oil change - $250, BHP now 125. (yes, always do an oil change when you buy a car – it increases BHP by ~5% on a new car, ~10% on a used car).
Then a racing air filter - $450 ((BHP now 129)
Then add a catalytic converter - $500 (BHP now 134)
Then upgrade the ECU - $1000 (BHP now 142).
Note – these 3 upgrades will become your standard set – cheap and easy power upgrades.

Now do your first race. Sunday Cup, autumn ring mini. Try to do it with Traction control off, skid recovery off, ABS at 1, and in manual. It’s better to get used to all this early – it also makes it easier to feel the upgrades. Looking for a time around 48seconds. Of course, you win! Another $4100, level 1 and a kart.
Now – add the height adjustable suspension for $4500 – leaving $1200. Lower the ride height to -5 front and rear, camber to 1.2 front, 0.6 rear (you will get used to doing this – a fairly good beginning setting).
Now – race the same track again -Ring mini. Feel the difference in the handling – better turn-in, more sure footed in the corners. Get used to feeling these differences.
You win again! Around 47sec this time. And now you have $5300.
On to the next track – Grand Valley. Race it with your current setup. – looking for a final lap around 1m26sec. Again it should feel more planted than when you started, driving through the corners quicker than the opposition. Another win – another $4100. So now you have $9400 – rich!. Time to try the next upgrade – sports soft tires for $8000. (for most street cars, this is all the tire you need – good handling, but still with handling characteristics obvious.
So – race the same track again, Grand Valley. You will find it sticks around the corners far better, and you will be ~4sec per lap quicker – now much faster than the opposition. You can start to tuck inside some of the others on some corners, pass around the outside on others.
Another $4100 takes you to $5500. Time for some more upgrades.
Sports intake - $2500 – BHP now 146. Stage 1 engine upgrade - $2500 – BHP now 156. That’s cooking! (While here, take the time to spend the last $500 – buy another catalytic converter, which will go into your parts bin. By doing this, you will have no money left – and will get the ‘penniless trophy’. Much better to get it now, than when you have lots more money….).
On to Tsukuba. This is a track you will race often, so time to get used to it. Race it the first time, looking for a final lap of 1.08. Use the money to add a sports exhaust ($1500 – time to hear a sports exhaust noise), taking you to 161 BHP. Race again, this time trying different lines, especially a later apex on the last long sweeper. Look for 1.07.
As this is a track you will race often – race it once more (this time, spend time looking at your instruments – note the gear indicator flashes near your braking point – but it is often too early for a well set up car). You will now have $10,800, and will be at level 4.
Time for another upgrade to take you through the next races. Add the mid range turbo for $10,000, which will take you to 194BHP. With this setup, you can easily win the next two challenges.
So now the FF Challenge.
Look for Suzuka last lap in 59sec (try to get a flow through the twisty sections – you will race this frequently), Special Stage 5 in 1.04, deep forest 1.29. You now have $13,100, are at level 5, and have raced a number of the regular tracks.

And now the World Compact championship. This is your first ‘championship’ challenge, where you have to race all races consecutively. So get ready! Fortunately, you now have a well prepared car, and are getting used and thus confident with the handling, so should have no problem getting gold in all 3. Look for final laps of 1.40 at London, 1.00 at Madrid, 1.00 at Cape ring.
The rewards are good – although only $3670 per race, this gets doubled when you finish all three and win the championship. So after all this, you will have $35,110 in the bank, be at level 6, and have a quick reliable car.
You will have started to notice, since adding the turbo, that you are getting some wheelspin out of the corners (in a Suzuki Swift!). So – time for another upgrade. Time to add one of the major tuning secrets in GT5, the LSD. There are many discussions on this – enough to say this transforms the handling of many cars. SO add this ($7500) and set it up – 9 initial, 20 acceleration, 5 braking. This is a reasonably common setup for lower horsepower front wheel drive cars.
Also – do another oil change. Although this won’t make a big difference at the moment, it is worth remembering to do after every series, to keep you horsepower up.
Total now - $27,360.
Time for a big jump – into the Amateur series. You and your car should be ready for this by now. Enter the Clubman Cup – another championship series. This will be a little closer than previous races – however is still easily winnable with the Suzuki.
Firstly -Tsukuba. With the turbo and LSD, you will now lap at ~1.05. Then Tokyo (a regular track with faster cars), lapping at 2.06, then cape ring, lapping at 1.52.

After you have won all these, you will have $61,370, be at level 8, have a Vitz (for the Vitz challenge), the racing Honda Mugen Civic (a really fast race car – worth repeating the Clubman Cup just to race it), and starting to understand how upgrades change a car. All ready for the next step.

Good luck!
Click to expand...

At first when I saw the topic I thought you were looking help and the first thing that came to mind was I sorry for you. But anyway nice guide.
 
Time for another session.

A quick oil change for the Ferrari (I bet I can't get one for real for $250), and BHP goes from 645 to 657.
Off to the MR sports cup. As the opposition are a little slower than in the Gran Turismo World Championship, you should have no trouble with this.
Deep Forest - look for 1.14, even 1.13
High Speed Ring - look for 1.03
La Sarthe - try to be faster than last time (3.55)!
You now have $337,740, and are at level 18.

The next section you can choose to do, or simply buy a fast Audi and grind you way around Schwarzald League A a number of times to pick up money.

I hope you choose to follow though what is below - it will be more fun, you will learn more, and drive a few extra cars. You are at a point where you can start to relax about getting through the game (as you are rapidly approaching the fast money sections), and spend more time enjoying driving multiple cars, and finding the differences.

Back to the AMG Intermediate Challenge - looking for all silver this time.
You will find it differnt this time. Having just driven the Ferrari, the Merc does not seem quite as fast as it did first time around. You will react a little quicker, and now find the handling a bit sloppy (compared to the Ferrari).

You should find silver reasonably easy to get this time around.
This will give you $135,000 (taking you to $472,740), and 15,600 XP .

Now for something a little slower. Time to buy a Mini (you will have to eventually to do the Mini Challenge). Buy the '07 Cooper S for 29,500, and add the standard oil/ECU/CC/SAF, and also Height adjustable suspension and Sports Soft. (to $428,540).
Adjust the suspension to the 'usual' 1.0/0.5 camber, and drop the ride height to -10.
Out to Madrid. You should win this easily, aiming for 1.45 or better.

Now for an experiment. Increase the camber to 2.4/1.2. Now go around Madrid again. Yo will find the car more stable, more planted, with better turn in, and holding through the corners better. And you times will improve 0.5-1 sec.
And one more experiment - add in an LSD, set at 9/25/7.
On to Madrid once more - quicker again, with better drive out of the corners, with less exit understeer. You will be 0.5-1 sec quicker again, maybe even breaking into the 1.42s.
Hopefully this will give you further appreciation of the changes that can be made to the handling with suspension and LSD changes, and will encourage you to try a few things yourself - a really fun part of GT5.

Now you have the car reasonably well set up, time to make it a little faster in readiness for the next race. Add sports intake manifold and exhaust manifold, and sports exhaust. As well, add a stage 1 weight reduction.

To Schwarzald League A. yes, the Mini is via BMW, so is considered German in the game, not UK.
You should reasonably easily win at Nurburgring, with a time around 2.24 (and now to $478,440)

Time to break out the Merc you just won at the AMG series, a 190E 2.5-16 Evolution 2. Add in oil/ECU/RAF/CC, and Sports Soft tires (it already has basic sports suspension), taking it to 263HP (which you would think would be quicker than the Mini - even if 200kg heavier).

Now race Nurburgring again in Schwarzald League A. You will find the handling completely different to the Mini - the Merc has sharp lift off turn in, and power oversteer on exit. If feels very smooth, and feels faster - but it's not. You will need to use different driving lines, and a different driving technique. Time are almost the same, around 2.24.

Take the car to Tokyo, the second race in the series, and race again. This race is a bit tighter, winnable with 2.08s (note, if having trouble, there are more upgrades you can add to the Merc to make it faster).

At the end of this, you will be at level 19, and have $519,840 stashed.
(PS - at some stage, come back and do this race again with a well spec'ed Golf GTI - it's a great drive).

I trust you have enjoyed this session. Rather than a pure headlong rush to level 24 and maximum money, as you now are getting comfortable with GT5 and your progression through it, I've tried to introduce you to some of the finer details, particularly different handling of different cars, and how you can substantially alter the driving feel of a car. Hopefully you will start experimenting for yourself.

:cheers::cheers:
 
I commend all you guys with your advices. Ok here's my input, after buying your first car it is possible to not buy another car for a while, the following tips will help you understand how this can be possible.

AFTER BUYING YOUR FIRST CAR

Buy your first car. You should be getting a go kart for free at this point.

YOUR FIRST RACES

Now go to the special events and do the first set of go kart races.

Winning these races will help you level up enough to unlock more special events.

Do as many special events as possible.(top gear first set of events, nascar first set of events and any other event available.)

MOVING ON TO YOUR LICENCE

Move on to the licence know, do as many as you unlock. You will win 3 cars for getting all gold, 2 for all silver, and 1 for bronze for each licence.

AFTER THE LICENCE TEST

The cars you won in the licence can now be used to start the early aspec events. After winning an event you will win a car, don't sell the car, use it for another event. By using your prize cars you will save alot of credits which will come in handy for modifying those cars and buying needed cars for events like the Farari, lamborghini and few others. You will find by using those prize cars you will be able to do the events without buying much cars.

DOING BSPEC MODE

After doing the events up to level 24 aspec, start bspec. Use the cars you used in aspec for bspec. A word of warning, give your bspec driver a 4 wheel drive car to start with. For the events requiring other drivetrain cars, skip them and go back to them when your driver is 2 to 3 levels better than the event requires.

LAST WORDS

By using this method in my opinion, will save you alot of credits, and time when you start bspec mode.
 

Latest Posts

Back