always buy the max?

[pr0gress]

does every car perform its best with the maximum of every upgrade, or are there some cars that you don't put the biggest turbo in, or lighten to stage 3, etc.?

 

[xcsti]

Usually I don't bother with stage 3 lightening, and depending on the car I won't tune it all the way. Always buy fully adjustable suspensioin and transmission. It also depends on what course you are going to run. On a winding course like Monaco I would scale back the power.

 

[LightningX]

I never usually use the biggest turbo available. The HP is too high and in my driving style I tend to break late. At those higher speeds I will crash into walls and what not. Usually a stage 2 turbo is sufficient, with gearing you can adjust to still get decent speed on straightaways.

 

[Jmac279]

On a tight course with short straights, you won't a big turbo becauase turbo lag and a very peaky power curve make it harder to accelerate while turning without losing your line or spinning out (RWD) ... A high NA Tune will be similar except without the lag, so it's a little easier to work with ...

As for stage 3 weight reduction, I don't think it's worth the cash unless you use that car regularly ...

 

[ShadowDeath]

i disagree if money is no object POWER POWER POWER that is the only way to get every second off every lap as to the curves and braking that is a skill factor after a few race serries with a 700+hp car you should know what speed for what corners ect... wanna drive with a hevy foot pick a MR they r earlier braking and power through the corner cars remember your foot (or thumb) will determine ur tire wear just my opinion restore your cars too and get original parts from tuner village they have high power bands and significant less turbo lag all my used cars with 6.2 miles have vilage parts.

 

[Velocity]

does every car perform its best with the maximum of every upgrade, or are there some cars that you don't put the biggest turbo in, or lighten to stage 3, etc.?

Some cars, especially production cars simply don't have the chassis design to handle full HP mods. Same for sport or production tires. What good is 900 ft/lbs of torque if your tires can only put down 400 or 500 ft/lbs of it?

I find that a level 2 or 3 boost generally strikes a really nice balance between handling and velocity.

Let's face it if your car can't slow down fast enough or can't stick all that well in the corners then you'll probably waste time compensating for it.

I know when I put on max mods I feel like the car should automatically stick to the road like a R390. However they don't all do that...

Full transmission, LSD, suspension and brake controls are a must.

 

[RoxxorJoorSoxxo]

i disagree if money is no object POWER POWER POWER that is the only way to get every second off every lap as to the curves and braking that is a skill factor after a few race serries with a 700+hp car you should know what speed for what corners ect... wanna drive with a hevy foot pick a MR they r earlier braking and power through the corner cars remember your foot (or thumb) will determine ur tire wear just my opinion restore your cars too and get original parts from tuner village they have high power bands and significant less turbo lag all my used cars with 6.2 miles have vilage parts.

Wow. That is so wrong it hurts. POWER POWER POWER is NOT the only way to get every second off a lap time, unless of course you're running the oval tracks. A good suspension setup, responsive power train, gearing, tires, and a GOOD DRIVER are the key to extracting the maximum lap times.