Beginners Guide: Useful Tips & Advice to help first timers.

  • Thread starter BkS
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eddyac
Fixed it for you ;)
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For learning throttle control? Haha ya, that's one place that'll teach you throttle control in a hurry.


nadfgnjk
Yeah I do agree that the 370 is much better to use. I'll definitely try the 350 if I can. Yeah currently my 370 is around that range of horsepower so I think it's fine for now.

Yes indeed it's still that problem. Also I don't really get the speed to enter each corner as sometimes I go in too fast or sometimes too slow but I think it all comes to experience and practice.

Thank you for your assistance anyway. It has taught me a lot. I often practice on Tsukuba track tho. Thanks again.
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For starting, work on entering the corner slowly, not even drifting. Then use the "power over" technique (ie you step on the throttle mid corner) to initiate the drift. As you become more comfortable with the throttle control, start initiating the drift earlier in the corner.
 
twitcher
For learning throttle control? Haha ya, that's one place that'll teach you throttle control in a hurry.

For starting, work on entering the corner slowly, not even drifting. Then use the "power over" technique (ie you step on the throttle mid corner) to initiate the drift. As you become more comfortable with the throttle control, start initiating the drift earlier in the corner.
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Oh really? I tend to use my e-brake haha. I don't know is it correct but that's what I use recently. I tried driftin without e-brakes but it doesn't work something but I'll try the "power over" technique. Thanks.
 
nadfgnjk
Oh really? I tend to use my e-brake haha. I don't know is it correct but that's what I use recently. I tried driftin without e-brakes but it doesn't work something but I'll try the "power over" technique. Thanks.
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Using the e-brake is a fine technique, and would probably be considered the "next step" after learning the power over technique.

At high levels of drifting, the e-brake is really only used to extend a drift, and using the e-brake to initiate a drift is somewhat looked down upon. However, for starting out, it's fine.

The reason I suggest the power over technique is it teach you throttle control, and gets you used to the concept of "more throttle equals more angle", and starts getting you accustomed to steering the car with the throttle. Once you feel comfortable with with power over, you can start using the e-brake to initiate, and then use your throttle control skills to sort of "catch" the rear end, and carry on with the drift.

Like I said though, most drifters consider it to be much more elegant to initiate a drift with other techniques, like weight transfer and the "Scandanavian Flick".
 
Dont know if anyone posted this yet but dont worry about being the best, focus on having fun. You could be the best drifter around and have a bad attitude but because of you are not the best in my books.
 
I have a thrustmaster ferrari gt 3 in 1 rumble force wheel with paddle shift,peadals, and all the ps3 controller buttons on the wheel. I use the paddle shift to shift, peadals to accelerate and brake and it is uncomfortable to press the circle button or any of the buttons on the wheel is there a way to make a e brake like the one for the other wheel thanks I can also make the buttons have different features if I make the R2 button the R1 button I can press the R2 button but it will do what the R1 button does. this is what the wheel looks like




 
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I understood the handbrake drifting and that you have to "feather" the throttle but I need way more help can anybody give me their advice?
 
Jake0917
I understood the handbrake drifting and that you have to "feather" the throttle but I need way more help can anybody give me their advice?
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You'll have to be a little more specific...

Always look both ways before crossing the street, it helps extend your life expectancy...that's my advice.
 
Umm, not to be rude, but no. I know my first response was a little sarcastic, but I'm being genuine now.

I don't really understand what you mean by "handbrake drift". Are you holding the handbrake down the entire time you are trying to drift? For a beginner, the handbrake should only be used to initiate a drift. You pull it just long enough to get the rear end to brake loose, then release it, and use the throttle to maintain the drift.
 
If for any reason you need to use the handbrake for a "longer" period of time, don't hold it the entire time, instead break it up, but very fast.

This allows the rear wheels to "lock up softly".

The best example I can show would be in this video. Just watch Mike Essa and how he initiates.

 
To add to these guys, when approaching the corner and you use the e break, don't get on the throttle right away, let the car slide a sec and find your angle THEN gently apply the throttle. Throttle control is the key! I myself is finally taking the plunge into wheel drifting (G27) and FINALLY go the hang of it (maybe two months total).

As a beginner, you should start off slow (as this guide tells you) so you can get the feel of using the wheel and pedals at the same time. Its harder to learn smooth techniques if you can't handle the car. You also shouldn't use the hand break to initiate drifts until you can master the "feint drift" (using the throttle to initiate the drift). I started with the Silvia Dia selection (from dealership), upgraded it to around 300hp, moved to 240sx at around 400hp, now Im back to my normal car I used with DS3, 350Z fully tuned.

A video I saw on youtube called "The Drift Bible" (search it) helped me sooo much. It showed me different ways to initiate a drift, when I should be using them, generally how to mod a car to drift (not tune), and how to use the wheel and pedals together to drift.
 
I am decent drifter...consistently over 10k, but I don't know what I should do with my LSD? I just have it all zeros...I don't know if that is right or a certain setting will make my drifting better...
 
I'm pretty sure 0/0/0 is not a good setting.

I would suggest you try 5/60/60, or 10/60/60. Either of these two is the closest we can get in GT5 to what real difters use. Those settings mimic a true LSD.

A lot of people on these forums (some of the best) use the 5/60/60 or 10/60/60t setting, and that setting only. Others make slight adjustments to that setting, with the main goal being to pic up some speed while drifting, or make the car more stable (...a more stable car is almost always faster, so...)

I wouldn't mess with the Initial too much...just try 5 and 10, and see what you like best.

For the Accel, start with 60. The Accel value effect the amount of lock applied by the diff when traction at the rear tires is broken, and you are on the throttle. Lowering the accel (do this in small amounts....I would say the lowest you want to go is 40) will cause the rear to have more grip when you are on the throttle during a drift. The lower the setting, the higher your drift speed will be...but the cost is reduced angle. If you are using a more powerful car, or find that you are spinning out too much when applying throttle, lowering the Accel value will help you get a little more control. Also keep in mind that a lower Accel value will cause transitioning from one direction to the other to be snappier (when you are on the throttle).

Just like the Accel, start with the Decel at 60. The Decel value effects the amount of diff lock when traction at the rear wheels is broken, and you are off the throttle. Lowering the Decel value will cause the rear wheels to gain more grip when you let off the throttle. A lower setting will cause the car to slow down more when you let off the gas. Also, because a lower setting causes the rear to gain more grip, this will cause the car to "track" towards the inside of the drift more (as opposed to sliding straight sideways). Also, just like the Accel value, lowering the Decel value causes transitioning from one direction to the other to be more snappy
 
@twitcher

You got any rules of thumb or general guidlines for suspension? Do you go soft in front and hard in back or vice versa? I always see different answers.

I also have a hard time transitioning corners, it tends to veer and snaps into the next corner too much. I use 55/55/55 in my z33 07.
 
Jake0917
Ok well whenever I do handbrake drift I always slide out I can never drift is that specific enough for you?
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I have seen him drift. So I know what's happening. Whenever he tries to drift using the handbrake it dosent start sliding so he uses more handbrake and he slides out.

I have the same problem so I use the handbrake to extend my drift and use feint motion to start a drift
 
For LSD settings the general rule of the thumb is:

5/60/60 is a locked diff, you'd use this in cars like BMW Z4, Nissan Z33, etc. Mid to high-powered cars

60/60/60 is a welded diff, you'd use this in cars like Nissan S13, S14, etc. Under-powered cars.

Generally I feel most comfortable with 5/60/45 or 7/60/55. These settings may work for you guys, they might not.

As for tuning the suspension, generally the stiffer you make the front less grip is applied to the tires, and will induce understeer. Where as if you me the front a little softer, more grip is applied to the tires, and understeer usually isn't induced although it really depends.

Tuning the rear, is the same as the front. Stiff rear, equals less grip only you'll induce oversteer. Softer rear you'll have more grip, but understeer will be induced.

Usually big heavy cars, like Merc C63, BMW M3, etc. They need stiffer springs to compensate for the weight. Vise-versa for light cars, although I would recommend you keep the light cars, a little stiff.

For light cars & heavy cars I usually use as a baseline -

Ride height - Lowest possible.
Spring rate - F: Two-Four notches stiffer. R: Two-Six notches stiffer.
Dampers - All round 8.
Anti-roll bars - All round 6.

Camber - F: 2.5 R: 1.5
Toe - F: 0.0 R: 0.0 - 0.15

I then fine tune from there.
 
@BKs

In regards to the diff:
-like you said, 60/60/60 acts like a welded diff...aka a solid rear end. This means that the rear wheels are ALWAYS locked together.

-5/60/60 is not a locked diff. It is a 2 way limited slip diff. The 5 means that when the rear wheels have traction, the diff is open. It acts the same as a regular diff, allowing each rear wheel to rotate at a differen speed. The 60s mean that when traction at the rear is broken, the diff locks, and the rear wheels are forced to rotate at the same speed.

5/60/30 (or something similar to this, like 5/60/45) would be considered a 1.5 way limited slip diff. A diff like this is typically used on most race cars IRL.


In regards to suspension:

IMO, there is not "golden rule" that applies to everyone. Pretty much everyone likes their suspension set up a little differently. I too have a sort of "universal suspension tune" that I put on all my drift new drift cars, and then tweak it from there. But my "universal tune" is quite different than yours.

I have to respectfully disagree that heavier cars need stiffer springs. On my chaser, I run 5.5 in the rear, my '07 M3 is at 5, and my C63 is at 4.7. I too used to increase the spring rate in the rear when I first started tuning, until I received some tuning tips from some very good, very fast GTP drifters.

My general suspension time looks like this:

Ride hieght - both front and rear as low as possible. When tweaking, if the car has understeer (like the M3) I raise the front a few clicks. If the car has too much oversteer (like the C63) I raise the rear.

Spring rate - front between 6-9, rear between 4-6.5...the rear is always softer than the front.

Dampers - I start with all values at 5, and go from there.

Anti roll - I usually start with 1/3 for lighter cars, 2/4 for heavier cars. I always has the rear stiffer than the front.

Camber - 2-3 degrees in the front, 0-1 degree in the back.

Toe - around -0.10 in the front, around +0.05 in the rear.

I like my drift cars to be a little bit soft, as this makes the weight ofthe car more usable, ie
I can use weight transfer to do various things.

In all honesty, I think the best thing someone can do is learn what each suspension setting does, and make a custom "universal tune" for yourself.
 
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Much appreciated guys. Clear, general, and not too specific. This is very good for beginner tuners that want to start their own tunes.
 
twitcher
@BKs

In regards to the diff:

-5/60/60 is not a locked diff. It is a 2 way limited slip diff.
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Not always. 5/60/50 would be a 2-way differential aswell. Just as 5/50/40.

2 way just means that it locks at both acceleration and deacceleration.

A 1.5 way diff has a set parameter for the acceleration and half of that for deacceleration. For example. 5/40/20 or 5/60/30. You get the idea.

The Nismo GT 2 way differential for example has a 55% acceleration lock and a 45% deacceleration lock. In GT5 it would look like this: 5/33/27.
 
@Twitcher - By "locked" diff, I ment a 2-way. I suppose I should've made that a bit clearer. I understand how diffs work, but sometimes people use different terms, etc. A 2-way diff locks under a pre-set load, which in turn spins both rear wheels at the same time. When it isn't under load, it's free to rotate each wheel at a different rate.

This is why drifters & racers use them, because when you get sideways the rear-wheels lock.

To regards of suspension, again I was only stating that, that's what I use. Anyone can use it and tweak it to there likely.


I think what I'll do, is update the OP, and perhaps people in the community can post their "base" tune, to help beginners or people struggling with tuning a better idea. I'll also post get the videos uploaded. I have them edited just need to upload them.
 
@Fizz, you're totally right, my bad. 5/60/60 isn't the only LSD setting you can use. I guess I guess I should have said it is the most aggressive (in terms of lock) LSD setting you can do.

Your description of a 1.5 way LSD is spot on as well.

@Bks, I know what you mean about the terms...seems to be the biggest issue when describing diff behavior lol...everyone uses differen terms interchangeably. That's what confused me the most when I was learning how a diff works.

And with the suspension, I understand that's your personal set-up. Not saying mine is better or anything, just saying it's different. My apologies if it seemed I was implying something different.

That actually illustrates the point I was trying to make - that is, that there is really no right or wrong way to set up suspension for drifting (well, I'm sure you could come up with a "wrong" way, bu it would have to be pretty ridiculous). Everyone seems to have their own personal preference, based on their driving style.

It just seems like once or twice a week, someone makes a thread along the lines of "I'm new to drifting, how should I set up my car?", and they're hoping to get a reply that gives them some sort of magic drift tune that will make their car easy to drift. Then people start posting their tunes, and arguments of "my setting is better than yours" break out, and do nothing but confuse the new person.

When I was first learning to tune drift cars, the biggest issue I had was "where do I start?". People would either post very specific tunes without explaining the reasoning behind their settings, or give generic statements like "the front should be stiffer than the rear", but wouldn't say by how much, and in what range.

In terms of helping out the drift community, I think what we need is a guide similar to what KYOKI had in their team OP. A guide that sort of explains each setting, and how adjustments one way or the other effect the car in terms of drift performance.

If someone spends enough time combing through the forums, they should be able to find all the info they need, as there is all kinds of great tuning tips and explanations scattered throughout different posts...but that's the problem, the info is all over the place, sometimes in threads where you would never think to look. It would be nice to get everything all together in this thread's OP, and get it stickied.

I've noticed that a lot of the time, when people ask questions about tuning, the response they get is "use the search function"...but even doing that can take countless hours to go through and find the info you are looking for. It would be nice to have all the info in one place, that is easy to find, and that the regulars can easily refer newbies to.


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Bluntified
@twitcher

You got any rules of thumb or general guidlines for suspension? Do you go soft in front and hard in back or vice versa? I always see different answers.

I also have a hard time transitioning corners, it tends to veer and snaps into the next corner too much. I use 55/55/55 in my z33 07.
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I forgot that I was going to mention something about this question.

A couple of months ago, I read a post somewhere on here...can't remember who it was by or where it was, but the advice helped me tremendously. And it was this:

"when you are transitioning from one direction to the other, you should always be fully on the throttle during the moment of transition, and then back off the throttle to sort of "catch" the car before it spins out".

Of course there will be specific corners where being on the throttle is not ideal (take the 2nd hairpin at Tsukuba as an example...you are transitioning from right to left while slowing down), but even just "blipping" the throttle at the moment the car is straight works well. The best way I can describe it is you are using the throttle to sort of "throw" the back end of the car into the corner, and then backing off the throttle to prevent the back end from going too far.

It took me a little bit of practice to be used to, but it has dramatically improved my drifting. I find this technique really helps make the transitions smoother, but at the same time, quicker. This technique will also make you a much faster drifter, as being on the throttle during the moment the car is straight really helps you pick up speed. And since you are picking up more speed, you will be enterig the following corner with more speed, which enables you to get bigger angle.

We always say drifting is not about speed, but generally, higher speeds allow for more angle (as the car will have more momentum to carry it through the corner).

I found the best place to practice this technique is at Suzuka East, or the S curve at HSR.
 
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There is a FAQ thread stickied with most of the topics you highlighted, but I guess people don't bother to look. This thread is even in there.

I'll probably get a ton of info, jot it down and write it up on tuning, although I think there's already one around somewhere...
 
The other threads get a little carried away. Too many contradictions and get way too technical. I've pretty much read everything on the other threads and everyone has different opinions and can be hard to follow what's right. Most people just need general guidelines to follow and improve on, like the ones you guys posted.
 
If I find sometime, I'll create a thread with some guidelines for tuning. There's some guidelines in the OP, but they aren't really all that descriptive.
 
Thank you guys for this thread, it answered some fundamental questions i had using the ds3 and helped me understand how to start drifting and not just sliding around like a maniac. Thank you guys again.
 
Hey guys, I'm new to GT drifting, and making my own full tunes. I saw, somewhere in one of these threads, info about differential settings and which ones equate to 1.5, 2, and open diffs. I can't find it again though. I have real world understanding of these (most diffs aren't adjustable like this, neither are transmissions) but don't quite understand which numbers make the diff what it is, if I'm making this clear enough.

Main question, what would a 33/ 33/ 05 diff be? Thanks
 

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