buttkicker amp

  • Thread starter Moldyplum
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United Kingdom
United Kingdom
Ive burned my buttkicker gamer2 amp out i can get a replacment amp for £120 pounds but does anyone no of a good alternative to this low quality amp that would be compatible
 
I'm not sure the wattage requirements of your specific buttkicker but Parts Express carries a complete line of low frequency amplifiers at reasonable prices. I'm not sure if they are available in the UK.
 
I had my reservations about it, which is why I just went with the Dayton 100 watt amp instead of doing the Buttkicker route. Not sure it can be used with a 2ohm shaker though. If that's what the buttkicker shaker is.
 
Ive burned my buttkicker gamer2 amp out i can get a replacment amp for £120 pounds but does anyone no of a good alternative to this low quality amp that would be compatible

Behringer iNuke NU1000DSP. You get some more features to fiddle with too, else just go with the no DSP version. Plus it is rated 2 to 16 Ohm. :)

Berney Villers' recommendation (for the mini-LFE SE he sells) over at SimXperience forum is the eMotiva UPA-500 5 channel amp. Though eMotiva doesn't state that it can handle 2 Ohm, which could thus result in cooling issues of the amplifier when used in combination with the BKG2 transducer.
 
Behringer iNuke NU1000DSP. You get some more features to fiddle with too, else just go with the no DSP version. Plus it is rated 2 to 16 Ohm. :)

Berney Villers' recommendation (for the mini-LFE SE he sells) over at SimXperience forum is the eMotiva UPA-500 5 channel amp. Though eMotiva doesn't state that it can handle 2 Ohm, which could thus result in cooling issues of the amplifier when used in combination with the BKG2 transducer.
Thanks for the info wil it be plug and play or wil i need to modify
 
Thanks for the info wil it be plug and play or wil i need to modify

The iNuke is plug and play. Though you need to screw (with a screw driver) on some SpeakOn connectors on the speaker wire.

For the eMotiva I would first call/mail that company to see if it can handle a 2 ohm transducer. If so than it is plug and play as well.
 
The iNuke is plug and play. Though you need to screw (with a screw driver) on some SpeakOn connectors on the speaker wire.

For the eMotiva I would first call/mail that company to see if it can handle a 2 ohm transducer. If so than it is plug and play as well.
The buttkicker amp has got banana connections in the back will the i nuke be the same
 
The buttkicker amp has got banana connections in the back will the i nuke be the same

Nope those are professional Speak-On type connectors on the back.

Making a short adapter cable is easy. For a single adapter cable you just need...

- 1 pieces of standard speaker wire by length of your choosing.
- 1 Speak-on connectors: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002BERXW6/?tag=gtplanet-20
- 1 Black Female Banana plugs and 1 Red Female Banana plugs: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20-X-In-Line-Banana-Sockets-Black-Red-Female-Plugs-/310389895035


Most expensive are the Speak-On connectors. All connectors only require a screw driver to tighten and make it ready for use. You only need to use something to strip your speaker cables and that's it. No soldering required.
 
Nope those are professional Speak-On type connectors on the back.

Making a short adapter cable is easy. For a single adapter cable you just need...

- 1 pieces of standard speaker wire by length of your choosing.
- 1 Speak-on connectors: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002BERXW6/?tag=gtplanet-20
- 1 Black Female Banana plugs and 1 Red Female Banana plugs: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20-X-In-Line-Banana-Sockets-Black-Red-Female-Plugs-/310389895035


Most expensive are the Speak-On connectors. All connectors only require a screw driver to tighten and make it ready for use. You only need to use something to strip your speaker cables and that's it. No soldering required.
Thanks for your help, so the buttkicker which has banana connectors wil have to be stripped back to bear wire and il have to fit new connectors for the new amp so i can use it is that right
 
Thanks for your help, so the buttkicker which has banana connectors wil have to be stripped back to bear wire and il have to fit new connectors for the new amp so i can use it is that right

No, you can just leave the buttkicker wire stock as in. I left it stock as well, so I can sell it undamaged and stock if I ever decide to.

You just need to grab some new speaker wire. Put some female banana plugs (as shown above) on one end of the wire, than a Speak-On connector (pin-out is on the package it comes in) on the other end.

The end with Speak-On goes in the amp, than you grab the banana plug BKG2 wire and plug it into the female banana plugs. Done!

So NO stripping or other alterations to stock wires are necessary. Please do not damage them, as that would make selling a pain.
 
No, you can just leave the buttkicker wire stock as in. I left it stock as well, so I can sell it undamaged and stock if I ever decide to.

You just need to grab some new speaker wire. Put some female banana plugs (as shown above) on one end of the wire, than a Speak-On connector (pin-out is on the package it comes in) on the other end.

The end with Speak-On goes in the amp, than you grab the banana plug BKG2 wire and plug it into the female banana plugs. Done!

So NO stripping or other alterations to stock wires are necessary. Please do not damage them, as that would make selling a pain.
 
No, you can just leave the buttkicker wire stock as in. I left it stock as well, so I can sell it undamaged and stock if I ever decide to.

You just need to grab some new speaker wire. Put some female banana plugs (as shown above) on one end of the wire, than a Speak-On connector (pin-out is on the package it comes in) on the other end.

The end with Speak-On goes in the amp, than you grab the banana plug BKG2 wire and plug it into the female banana plugs. Done!

So NO stripping or other alterations to stock wires are necessary. Please do not damage them, as that would make selling a pain.
 
No, you can just leave the buttkicker wire stock as in. I left it stock as well, so I can sell it undamaged and stock if I ever decide to.

You just need to grab some new speaker wire. Put some female banana plugs (as shown above) on one end of the wire, than a Speak-On connector (pin-out is on the package it comes in) on the other end.

The end with Speak-On goes in the amp, than you grab the banana plug BKG2 wire and plug it into the female banana plugs. Done!

So NO stripping or other alterations to stock wires are necessary. Please do not damage them, as that would make selling a pain.
would this cable be a easy way to connect bk to the inuke planet waves po 350 dual banana to speakon connector
 
Iv got a playseat bk under backseat with fanatec gt2 wheel and csp edals . What transducer and where would you recomend placing it .thanks for all your help
 
Iv got a playseat bk under backseat with fanatec gt2 wheel and csp edals . What transducer and where would you recomend placing it .thanks for all your help

Sorry, never owned a playseat so I can't recommend to you the best transducer to place on your rig. Let alone where to place them.

Maybe you can place a mini-lfe under the pedal plate? Would be nice to have effects from the front and back of the car after all.

Maybe someone else can chip in?
 
Under the foot pedals seems ideal i just need to no a cheap tranducer that would be compatible with the amp i saw this one the sinus live bass pump111 base shaker 4 ohm but not sure wether it will blow
 
Under the foot pedals seems ideal i just need to no a cheap tranducer that would be compatible with the amp i saw this one the sinus live bass pump111 base shaker 4 ohm but not sure wether it will blow

It's 50W RMS @ 4 ohm. The amp is 300W RMS @ 4 ohm.

So yes, you could blow the transducer if you turn it up too much. However, since the pedal plates often have a lot of flex in them (big thin metal plate) you wouldn't want too much vibrations anyway, as it will become uncomfortable and unrealistic.

One tip I can give you is to keep your ears open, because when the transducer starts to flutter or changes the noise it makes; than you ended crossing over the limit and it is bottoming out/clipping. Turn it back a notch or two and you should be fine.
 
Hi Moldyplum - I've got several of the Sinus Live Bass Pump 3 tactile transducers - they are good at replicating engine vibration, but are poor at replicating road bumps such as hitting road kerbs. The Aura AST 2B PRO4 tactile transducers are good for both, but are difficult to get hold of in the UK (are you in the UK?).

The Behringer amp has plenty of power and good adjustability. It has enough power to run two bass shakers either wired in series to present an 8 ohm load or wired in parallel to present a 2 ohm load - so you could run two shakers off one channel and the BK unit off the other channel if you wanted.
 
Hi Moldyplum - I've got several of the Sinus Live Bass Pump 3 tactile transducers - they are good at replicating engine vibration, but are poor at replicating road bumps such as hitting road kerbs. The Aura AST 2B PRO4 tactile transducers are good for both, but are difficult to get hold of in the UK (are you in the UK?).

The Behringer amp has plenty of power and good adjustability. It has enough power to run two bass shakers either wired in series to present an 8 ohm load or wired in parallel to present a 2 ohm load - so you could run two shakers off one channel and the BK unit off the other channel if you wanted.
Thanks for the info iam in the uk find the wiring dificult to understand when you say wire in a series to create a 8 oohm or wire in parallel to create a4 ohm maybe when i get the amp things wil seem clearer
 
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