Buttkicker gamer 2

  • Thread starter Shinu
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I can have sound through my tv and the headset. The headset is connected to the console via wireless usb. I turn the tv volume down though so it's not coming through the tv speakers. I'm hoping if I run the optical cable from the tv to the converter, then to the buttkicker, it would just send the sound from my tv to the buttkicker.
You could use the TV headphone jack to run your Buttkicker, that's what I've done. I have a 3.5 jack with a splitter plugged in to the headphone jack on the TV. This way I can run my Buttkicker and my speakers from the TV, and it works for my PS3 and PS4 without having to switch anything. It's not ideal but it works. To run yours this way you wouldn't even need the splitter, just set your TV to 'Headphone Only' in the settings and from memory my BK came with the 3.5 jack adapter.
 
Tried it .. was awesome .. neighbors started banging the radiators ...

Is there any use from those kinetic isolator legs ? Should I try to find them?

Should help some, not sure how much though. Never tried them.
 
You could use the TV headphone jack to run your Buttkicker, that's what I've done. I have a 3.5 jack with a splitter plugged in to the headphone jack on the TV. This way I can run my Buttkicker and my speakers from the TV, and it works for my PS3 and PS4 without having to switch anything. It's not ideal but it works. To run yours this way you wouldn't even need the splitter, just set your TV to 'Headphone Only' in the settings and from memory my BK came with the 3.5 jack adapter.

No headphone jack on my tv either unfortunately. Samsung UN43KU7500. Only has option for Bluetooth headphones.
 
No headphone jack on my tv either unfortunately. Samsung UN43KU7500. Only has option for Bluetooth headphones.
These new fangled TVs make things difficult when we're trying to mix them with older technology. Best of luck then, I hope the optical route works for you. Maybe running the optical and converter from the PS4 might work, then the volume on the TV shouldn't affect anything. You can still run the HDMI to your TV for the picture if you use the settings like this in the video below but I have no idea if it will affect your headphones.
 
These new fangled TVs make things difficult when we're trying to mix them with older technology. Best of luck then, I hope the optical route works for you. Maybe running the optical and converter from the PS4 might work, then the volume on the TV shouldn't affect anything. You can still run the HDMI to your TV for the picture if you use the settings like this in the video below but I have no idea if it will affect your headphones.


TV volume should not affect optical output(exept for when mute is engaged that may cut signal), as it is not adjustable it's just like line level outputs.


As for your settings that you posted with screen shot, that won't matter. PS4 runs duel audio output,HDMI and digital optical even when HDMI is selected (mine does anyway).
 
TV volume should not affect optical output(exept for when mute is engaged that may cut signal), as it is not adjustable it's just like line level outputs.
Ahhh, no worries. I'm by no means an expert :lol:. So it will probably just be a case of wherever it's easiest/neatest for @JeffKill to run the optical cable to the BK from, while still having his headphones working.
 
I am sure from memory I did have my Turtle Beach X41 working directly from the PS4. PS4>X41 Transmitter via S/PDIF. From the Transmitter 3.5mm jack output into the Buttkicker AMP. X41 Wireless Headset and 2x Buttkicker Gamer 2 Speakers working.

My current set up is my Turtle Beach PX4 headset connects directly to my TV via S/PDIF. The S/PDIF from PS4 goes into my X41 Wireless Transmitter>3.5mm>Denon AMP. 2 x Buttkicker's connect to the Denon AMP with Banana Plugs connections and Speaker Cables.

Thanks for the setup info.

I recently set up a BK-SK in the following manner and have the same issue post people have with USB headphones. The BK works fine when the TV audio is on, but cuts out when the USB headset is active. I cannot find a solution but maybe there’s another headset option or wiring arrangement needed to make this work.

Here’s my setup:

  • BK amplifier plugged into a HDMI/RCA extractor/converter
  • PS4 Slim HDMI out to HDMI/RCA extractor/converter
  • TV has HDMI out to same extractor/converter
My HDMI/RCA converter has a P/SDIF port if that helps. And I don’t necessarily need USB Bluetooth headphones, any wired option is fine.

Another limiting issue could be the lack of port options on the PS4 Slim (no optical, only HDMI ports) though it would be nice if Guitammer moved into the 21st century and upgraded their devices with something other than RCA ports/plugs.
 

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Thanks for the setup info.

I recently set up a BK-SK in the following manner and have the same issue post people have with USB headphones. The BK works fine when the TV audio is on, but cuts out when the USB headset is active. I cannot find a solution but maybe there’s another headset option or wiring arrangement needed to make this work.

Here’s my setup:

  • BK amplifier plugged into a HDMI/RCA extractor/converter
  • PS4 Slim HDMI out to HDMI/RCA extractor/converter
  • TV has HDMI out to same extractor/converter
My HDMI/RCA converter has a P/SDIF port if that helps. And I don’t necessarily need USB Bluetooth headphones, any wired option is fine.

Another limiting issue could be the lack of port options on the PS4 Slim (no optical, only HDMI ports) though it would be nice if Guitammer moved into the 21st century and upgraded their devices with something other than RCA ports/plugs.


This won't happen, as it's just simply a signal (line level input) amplifier. RCA plug is the only way to go. It's all analog.

Unless you are willing to triple quadruple the cost to ad HDMI splitter , an HDMI board and all the decoder lisceing ect ECT ECT..
 
This won't happen, as it's just simply a signal (line level input) amplifier. RCA plug is the only way to go. It's all analog.

Unless you are willing to triple quadruple the cost to ad HDMI splitter , an HDMI board and all the decoder lisceing ect ECT ECT..

Well I had an ‘a-ha’ moment and just plugged in some cheapie iPhone earbuds into my TV headphone jack and both BK and headphones work simultaneously. I’m assuming even a quality set of headphones plugged into the TV won’t sound as good as the Sony surround USB I’m currently using but it’s a start anyway.
 
UPDATE:

Picked up a pair of HyperX Cloud II headphones today. Plugged them into the TV and everything is working great. The sound through the headphones is not as great as before, but it’s still great. The BK makes up for it and the full experience is amazing. Only slight issue is a low humming through the headphones when there is no audio present in the game. Not sure the reason, maybe it’s due to the 6’ extension cable between the headset and the TV.
 
UPDATE:

Picked up a pair of HyperX Cloud II headphones today. Plugged them into the TV and everything is working great. The sound through the headphones is not as great as before, but it’s still great. The BK makes up for it and the full experience is amazing. Only slight issue is a low humming through the headphones when there is no audio present in the game. Not sure the reason, maybe it’s due to the 6’ extension cable between the headset and the TV.

I would have to agree that you extension can is the hum culprit, or it's the TV jack(not like the manufacturer is going put in high end stuff there). Is your extension shielded? Plug the headphone in direct with no extension to see if hum is still there, if still humming plug headphones into some other devices to test the headphones.
 
I would have to agree that you extension can is the hum culprit, or it's the TV jack(not like the manufacturer is going put in high end stuff there). Is your extension shielded? Plug the headphone in direct with no extension to see if hum is still there, if still humming plug headphones into some other devices to test the headphones.

It’s got to be the TV jack. Headphones still hum plugged directly into the TV and have no humming when tested with my tablet.
 
Tried it .. was awesome .. neighbors started banging the radiators ...

Is there any use from those kinetic isolator legs ? Should I try to find them?

I don't know if you are still looking for isolators, but Penn-Elcom 9106 are very good - as good as Buttkicker isolators, for a fraction of the cost! Available from Parts Express:

https://www.parts-express.com/Search.aspx?keyword=9106&sitesearch=true

I have a problem with my setup which perhaps you guys can help with? It worked perfectly on PC1, but I don't get enough signal on PC2. Currently system configured as follows:

PS4 Pro HDMI to TV, Optical to 5.1 sound system - this doesn't have a 0.1 output to split so the Buttkicker amp is fed from the 3.5 jack on the TV. As I say this worked perfectly on PC1, but doesn't work at all on PC2 due to low signal strength.

Should I try splitting the HDMI signal and send half into a DAC then feed that to the Buttkicker amp? The other option I can think of is to split the optical and send half to a second 5.1.

I am using a BK Advance (large Buttkicker), but also have Aura AST 2B Pro 4 and Sinus Live Bass Pump 3 shakers so can comment on these if anyone is considering cheaper alternatives to Buttkickers.
 
I don't know if you are still looking for isolators, but Penn-Elcom 9106 are very good - as good as Buttkicker isolators, for a fraction of the cost! Available from Parts Express:

https://www.parts-express.com/Search.aspx?keyword=9106&sitesearch=true

I have a problem with my setup which perhaps you guys can help with? It worked perfectly on PC1, but I don't get enough signal on PC2. Currently system configured as follows:

PS4 Pro HDMI to TV, Optical to 5.1 sound system - this doesn't have a 0.1 output to split so the Buttkicker amp is fed from the 3.5 jack on the TV. As I say this worked perfectly on PC1, but doesn't work at all on PC2 due to low signal strength.

Should I try splitting the HDMI signal and send half into a DAC then feed that to the Buttkicker amp? The other option I can think of is to split the optical and send half to a second 5.1.

I am using a BK Advance (large Buttkicker), but also have Aura AST 2B Pro 4 and Sinus Live Bass Pump 3 shakers so can comment on these if anyone is considering cheaper alternatives to Buttkickers.


Yes absolutely split the signal and send to a DAC. This way the BK amps get the full line level signal.

Please do tell us your thoughts on the other transducer brands. I'm thinking about going that route for a couch install.
 
Lately the BK amp has been a complete mystery why it decides to wake up from standby mode. Can’t figure it out.

First several months everthing ran great until I disconnected it and moved my rig around, and now it only wakes up when it feels like it.

I’m certain it’s set up exactly the same as before, but will only wake up for reasons I’m completely uncertain.

For instance today, I wasn’t even planning on using my rig but happened to be in the room and thought what the heck, let’s press the button when the console and TV were off, and voila it turns on with a single press.

Sometimes I can sit there during a racing session and nothing happens with repeated button pressing. I’m completely confused.
 
@cjr3559 Maybe there is a problem with your remote cable??

No, the amp wouldn’t turn on using the base on/off switch either.

The unit turned on yesterday no problem, so maybe it’s working ok again.

One thing I tried was plugging the amp into it’s own socket rather than into the plug strip that has everything else plugged into it, so maybe it wasn’t getting enough power sharing the power with everything else (PS4, TV, T300, etc). We’ll see.
 
No, the amp wouldn’t turn on using the base on/off switch either.

The unit turned on yesterday no problem, so maybe it’s working ok again.

One thing I tried was plugging the amp into it’s own socket rather than into the plug strip that has everything else plugged into it, so maybe it wasn’t getting enough power sharing the power with everything else (PS4, TV, T300, etc). We’ll see.


That won't matter, moveing the plug. Odds are, that the entire room is on the same circuit anyway....
No, the amp wouldn’t turn on using the base on/off switch either.

The unit turned on yesterday no problem, so maybe it’s working ok again.

One thing I tried was plugging the amp into it’s own socket rather than into the plug strip that has everything else plugged into it, so maybe it wasn’t getting enough power sharing the power with everything else (PS4, TV, T300, etc). We’ll see.

Did you try with the remote cable unplugged? A malfunctioning remote cable could interfere with the base button commands.
 
That won't matter, moveing the plug. Odds are, that the entire room is on the same circuit anyway....


Did you try with the remote cable unplugged? A malfunctioning remote cable could interfere with the base button commands.

Today I booted up the system and the BK wouldn’t fire up. TV, wheel and PS4 first then the BK. Tried unplugging the remote, still no power using the amp switch.

Maybe it’s the order I turn things on? BK first and then everything else? I’m baffled.
 
Today I booted up the system and the BK wouldn’t fire up. TV, wheel and PS4 first then the BK. Tried unplugging the remote, still no power using the amp switch.

Maybe it’s the order I turn things on? BK first and then everything else? I’m baffled.

Is the red light on indicating it has power in the off mode?
 
Update on this:

Recently I’ve been turning the BK on before everything else and it seems to be consistently turning on again. Strange, I would have thought turning the BK on last would have been more logical.
 
Update on this:

Recently I’ve been turning the BK on before everything else and it seems to be consistently turning on again. Strange, I would have thought turning the BK on last would have been more logical.
That's interesting, I'll definitely make note of that.
 
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