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I've just always tuned rear camber using the car's power, rear tire size/compound and desired wheelspin as my main factors. Its really simple as pk said though, more rear negative camber makes a smaller contact patch, which will have less grip and more wheelspin, to a degree.

I imagine this discussion could go on forever, even as it is now my head is about to explode.

:)
 
pk_090
ok so for example my AE86 was 128hp standard when it left the factory in japan some 26 years ago, its had a pretty hard life being thrashed and taken to the redline daily, from cold, with no oil in (Im just listing here i am a mechanic so i don't need lectures). so lets for arguments sake say it has lost 1 horsepower per year. we get a figure of a 102 horse power. The engine has never been rebuild or had much maintained.

Imagine now the same Ae86 but with the Blacktop 20V engine conversion. Standard these are roughly 165 horsepower. Ive recently done a full engine rebuild on this engine and changed all the bearings, bearing surfaces, pistons con rods and rings. Its had fresh valves and been ported and polished, its running an after market exhaust system and an aftermarket ECU. Ive really gone the whole way with this car no expense has been spared, and for arguments sake its running 210hp......but in an identical chassis....

The lesser powered car is really going to struggle to spin the wheels with the down in power, so therefore we can add more camber to counter this. More -'ve = less tyre touching the road, less tyre touching the road less grip less grip = easier wheel slip....
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It's not about traction off the line, which is largely irrelevant in drifting. It's about having the largest possible contact patch whilst sideways, in order to have optimum amounts of grip and therefore control.

And if you're trying to power-over in a 100bhp Hatchi you've got to have bollocks the size of grapefruits! Handbrakes and weight-transfer are they only feasible entries in most sub-200bhp cars.
 
RufusGonePunk
It's not about traction off the line, which is largely irrelevant in drifting. It's about having the largest possible contact patch whilst sideways, in order to have optimum amounts of grip and therefore control.

And if you're trying to power-over in a 100bhp Hatchi you've got to have bollocks the size of grapefruits! Handbrakes and weight-transfer are they only feasible entries in most sub-200bhp cars.
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obbiously you dont need traction off the line in drifting (if you did you would use 0 camber anyway....somethings no matter how they are explained make no sense to some,) but for some people they like the wheels spinning before the car has even entered the corner, and some like me like the wheels to spin for as long as possible out of the corner hence little contact patches.

With regards to the latter. I agree that handbrake and weight shift are techniques used with smaller cars yes, but turn your attention to this. You can power over ANY drift car regardless of power, obbiously more helps. With the weight shift not only are you shifting weight in a direction in regards to the left and right of the car but also forwards and backwards. A common practice in smaller powered cars (as your example the Hatchi Rouku) is to "dab" the brakes ever so slightly, this shifts weight forwards towards the nose, not only for planting the front end into the floor for good turn in grip, but also to rid the rear end of weight to use all the power available, combined with a welded diff, a nice clutch kick, no weight over the rear to start with, a touch of camber can provide epic drifts and many hours of fun.

As with everything there are aways going to be disagreements between people i say one thing another person says another, different things work for different people, i know what works for me as im making the assumption you know what works for you.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pBPn6728qpw&feature=player_embedded#at=62

Nuthing to see here, no clutch kicks or power overs at all.....
 
Meerly a cat
Maybe that's why he is asking here. You should stop posting useless comments trying to bring people down.

To the op I usually drift about 3 camber on the front. I don't know how this compares to you or real life but it works just great for me.
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https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?t=192256

LOL is this better then, USE GOOGLE PEOPLE!

Front tire camber is used for maximum grip while turning corners basically the best front end camber setup would be your outside tire straight up and down (while cornering) I'm pretty sure if not look it up to make sure. When it comes down to drifting usually the most camber you can run without burning your tires in 2 runs is almost a must. It allows the front end to slide while having grip (with heavy cars you can feel what I mean, Or a high grip front end) When it comes down to GT5 I find the more camber you have the more tendency to kick out and stay side ways. Nice and smooth.

On my Spirit R I run -2.0 -5.0 with no toe and I find while off the gas the car will still slide. This is what you want! This what you want every car to feel like, A drift car. First my advice tune your car for grip. Then find out where grip is needed the most (rear or front) Once you have your tune perfect then! adjust your camber according to track, speed, and your line.

For those people who use less then -3 camber and seem to think they have the perfect drift setup, You could be right...But at the same time are tuning for racing or drifting? You decide before you ask or start tuning.

I find using as much real life specs as possible, meaning HP, weight and suspension setups.

Find out your HP here
http://locost7.info/converter.php

For suspension spring rates use 0179 is the conversion factor.

To convert kg/mm to lbs/in, divide by .0179.
To convert lbs/in to kg/mm, multiply by .0179.

So... 8k ~ 447lbs, 6k ~ 335lbs, etc. etc.

Also to be 100% honest I have no idea about anything really...I just know how to drive ;)
 
And running a 200hp or 100hp car DO NOT use the e brake thats stupid use weight transfer its the only way ;)

I have no idea what PK and RUFUS are trying to say lol

Long story short run whatever is comfortable to you and stick with that one car do not change from car to car. Practice makes SLYDWAYZ lol!!!

I don;t care who you are thats kinda funny...^
 
pk_090
With regards to the latter. I agree that handbrake and weight shift are techniques used with smaller cars yes, but turn your attention to this. You can power over ANY drift car regardless of power, obbiously more helps. With the weight shift not only are you shifting weight in a direction in regards to the left and right of the car but also forwards and backwards. A common practice in smaller powered cars (as your example the Hatchi Rouku) is to "dab" the brakes ever so slightly, this shifts weight forwards towards the nose, not only for planting the front end into the floor for good turn in grip, but also to rid the rear end of weight to use all the power available, combined with a welded diff, a nice clutch kick, no weight over the rear to start with, a touch of camber can provide epic drifts and many hours of fun.
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Is that not what weight shifting is? Shifting weight forwards to unload the rear and break traction. I always thought a powerover was just flooring the throttle in a 500+bhp car and spinning the rears.

IISLYDWAYZII
On my Spirit R I run -2.0 -5.0 with no toe and I find while off the gas the car will still slide. This is what you want! This what you want every car to feel like, A drift car. First my advice tune your car for grip. Then find out where grip is needed the most (rear or front) Once you have your tune perfect then! adjust your camber according to track, speed, and your line.
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I don't. Sounds out of control if I'm honest. I want my car to be on the very edge of grip for as much of the time as possible. So that if I want to keep drifting I open up the throttle, and if I want to stop, slow down change direction or take a tighter line I let off the throttle and the car regains grip.

Edit: Are your "-2.0 -5.0" camber figures rear and front respectively?
 
RufusGonePunk
Is that not what weight shifting is? Shifting weight forwards to unload the rear and break traction. I always thought a powerover was just flooring the throttle in a 500+bhp car and spinning the rears.
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weight can also be shifted to either the nearside or the offside of the car hence the little flick before entry often called a "Scandinavian flick". This often consists of a very light turn in early, followed by a swift aggressive turn away from the corner, followed by your actual turn in, combined with a "brake feint" (shifting weight forwards to the front) can be massively sucessful normally in lower horsepower N/A cars such as AE86's, N/A MX-5s, RA celica's etc etc..

Powerover is basically using the power of the vehicle to spin the wheels, this can be done in anything. If there is no weight on the rear, the only thing stopping the wheels spinning under the load of the engine is the grip from the tyres as soon as enough is forced to break the grip and get the tyres spinning.
 
pk_090
Powerover is basically using the power of the vehicle to spin the wheels, this can be done in anything. If there is no weight on the rear, the only thing stopping the wheels spinning under the load of the engine is the grip from the tyres as soon as enough is forced to break the grip and get the tyres spinning.
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And the way to get less weight on the rear wheels is by braking hard, which is weight shifting :rolleyes:

There is no way a standard Suzuki Cappuccino could break traction using the 60bhp or whatever it has. An 800bhp Viper on the other hand can break traction whenever, regardless of where the weight balance is.
 
with the right setup a cappuccino can drift, heard of the "kei car drifting in japan?"..
 
All that adding -7* of camber on the rear does is make the car slide. Which, contrary to what people think on here, is not all that is wanted during drifting. There is a reason that top level drift cars run 305 tyres on the rear. And why do you think Formula D brought in the new tyre rule as well?
 
I find out ways on how to make my drift cars go on 7 camber without lousy under steer or any other defect.

It really all depends on how you set your car up to be able to take 7 camber to be able to drift it better than a lower cambered car. 👍

NOTE* 7 camber is only for front I would NOT recommend it on the back.
 
Overly excessive camber looks so silly to me on GT5. It looks like they're trying too hard to be different, and the way that most wheel fitments are in this game, they're mega anti-flush yo, despite them thinking they've got that gangster tuck.

:ill:
 
your using an awd....so basically uour making the front wheels have no grip whatsoever..
 
pk_090
obbiously you dont need traction off the line in drifting (if you did you would use 0 camber anyway....somethings no matter how they are explained make no sense to some,) but for some people they like the wheels spinning before the car has even entered the corner, and some like me like the wheels to spin for as long as possible out of the corner hence little contact patches.

With regards to the latter. I agree that handbrake and weight shift are techniques used with smaller cars yes, but turn your attention to this. You can power over ANY drift car regardless of power, obbiously more helps. With the weight shift not only are you shifting weight in a direction in regards to the left and right of the car but also forwards and backwards. A common practice in smaller powered cars (as your example the Hatchi Rouku) is to "dab" the brakes ever so slightly, this shifts weight forwards towards the nose, not only for planting the front end into the floor for good turn in grip, but also to rid the rear end of weight to use all the power available, combined with a welded diff, a nice clutch kick, no weight over the rear to start with, a touch of camber can provide epic drifts and many hours of fun.

As with everything there are aways going to be disagreements between people i say one thing another person says another, different things work for different people, i know what works for me as im making the assumption you know what works for you.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pBPn6728qpw&feature=player_embedded#at=62

Nuthing to see here, no clutch kicks or power overs at all.....
Click to expand...


You'd better got your ears checked because I heard several clutch kicks, and its the Run free 86 which is far from stock and might be pulling at least 180horses.

PROFESSOR-HAZE
I use +10 camber front and rear on my Evo IX with racing soft tyres and AT transmission.
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If you use +10 you might play Forza because theres no positive camber settings available in GT5 (and it would be stupid to put +10 camber).
 
Warren4649
You'd better got your ears checked because I heard several clutch kicks, and its the Run free 86 which is far from stock and might be pulling at least 180horses.




Sarcasm is hard to read but I am conforming now it was a sarcastic comment, correct it is the Running free AE86 group, and correct again they are far from standard. If i remember correct they run AE111 Blacktop 20V engines which are about 165 ponies standard.
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The Run-free AE86s are 20v engines alright but are far from standard too even at that.

they are fully rebuilt with all different internals, silly cams, twin 44s and custom manifolds etc.
Probably up over 200-210bhp or so easily enough.

Very cool cars though and great video :)

pk_090
obbiously you dont need traction off the line in drifting (if you did you would use 0 camber anyway....somethings no matter how they are explained make no sense to some,) but for some people they like the wheels spinning before the car has even entered the corner, and some like me like the wheels to spin for as long as possible out of the corner hence little contact patches.

With regards to the latter. I agree that handbrake and weight shift are techniques used with smaller cars yes, but turn your attention to this. You can power over ANY drift car regardless of power, obbiously more helps. With the weight shift not only are you shifting weight in a direction in regards to the left and right of the car but also forwards and backwards. A common practice in smaller powered cars (as your example the Hatchi Rouku) is to "dab" the brakes ever so slightly, this shifts weight forwards towards the nose, not only for planting the front end into the floor for good turn in grip, but also to rid the rear end of weight to use all the power available, combined with a welded diff, a nice clutch kick, no weight over the rear to start with, a touch of camber can provide epic drifts and many hours of fun.

As with everything there are aways going to be disagreements between people i say one thing another person says another, different things work for different people, i know what works for me as im making the assumption you know what works for you.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pBPn6728qpw&feature=player_embedded#at=62

Nuthing to see here, no clutch kicks or power overs at all.....
Click to expand...

Wrong.

If you take any top level drift car, you'll be amazed how much forward traction it actually has.

Having little grip and just wanting to have the wheels spinning for as long as possible no matter how little traction you have is really grass roots kinda drifting that was the thing to do about 10 years ago with people welding up a diff and pumping tyres upto 60psi just to go sideways.
 
PROFESSOR-HAZE
I use +10 camber front and rear on my Evo IX with racing soft tyres and AT transmission.
Click to expand...

pk_090
your using an awd....so basically uour making the front wheels have no grip whatsoever..
Click to expand...
Do we have to remind people about the rule now?
Meerly a cat
Maybe that's why he is asking here. You should stop posting useless comments trying to bring people down.

To the op I usually drift about 3 camber on the front. I don't know how this compares to you or real life but it works just great for me.
Click to expand...

Thank you..
 
Adavicro
A lot of times people add "demon camber" to try to be unique as its hard to have an identity with the limited customization of cars. Some may think its functional, but anything above 5 in the front is just getting silly.

People tend to overthink their camber, most of the time the car actually drifts great without any negative camber at all.

Shoot, just slap 3 on the front and 1.2 in the rear and tune to taste. 👍
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Totally agree with this post and the numbers to tune your car around.

it is indeed simple to drift without tuning but it does improve your car if done properly
 
nk4e
Do we have to remind people about the rule now?


Thank you..
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His post is not against the rules, if you could read properly you'd understand he just said that as he has an AWD putting massive camber upfront will lessen the grip upfront thus making the car behave kinda like an FR.
 
After reading it for the third time, yes. :lol: I like how this thread is currently continuing. Before, I was lurking though.
 
Well, according to the info on the thread my setup is completely wrong, I run more camber on the back then the front lol.
 
Warren4649
His post is not against the rules, if you could read properly you'd understand he just said that as he has an AWD putting massive camber upfront will lessen the grip upfront thus making the car behave kinda like an FR.
Click to expand...

To a point yes, but you'll also have awful initial turn in and car will be ****e for transitioning.


RE: Meerly a cat:

3 up front translates well to real-life.

On our cars, we have maybe 3-5 degrees camber at the front and 0-1.5 at the rear.

On my own car, it would be zero static but with the crap trailing arm rear suspension of an E30, it would probably be 3 or 4 dynamic camber under load and eat the inside of the tyres if I set the static perfectly.

Must sort a custom rear end for more adjustablity on my new car.
 

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