Car Audio

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Sub amplifier options

XMD400_C.jpg

Max power output at 2 ohms 1 Ch: 800W x 1
Rated power output at 2 ohms 1 Ch: 400W x 1

XMD1000_C.jpg

Max power output at 2 ohms 1 Ch: 1600W x 1
Rated power output at 2 ohms 1 Ch: 900W x 1

These are the two options I'm currently looking at. The black one might be overkill - 900wrms, 450wrms to each sub! I can always tune it so that it's not as powerful and that leaves the opportunity for bigger and better sound levels afterwards..

Thoughts, suggestions?
 
Taurine
Sub amplifier options

XMD400_C.jpg

Max power output at 2 ohms 1 Ch: 800W x 1
Rated power output at 2 ohms 1 Ch: 400W x 1

XMD1000_C.jpg

Max power output at 2 ohms 1 Ch: 1600W x 1
Rated power output at 2 ohms 1 Ch: 900W x 1

These are the two options I'm currently looking at. The black one might be overkill - 900wrms, 450wrms to each sub! I can always tune it so that it's not as powerful and that leaves the opportunity for bigger and better sound levels afterwards..

Thoughts, suggestions?

Get the biggest amp your wallet will allow. This will, as you said yourself, leave you with more room for further, ehhrrmmm, expansion ;)

And YES - BIGGER is better !....
 
Well RRP on the black one is NZ$799 but I'll be getting it for around half that :D
 
Taurine
Well RRP on the black one is NZ$799 but I'll be getting it for around half that :D

And the NZ$ is like how much compared to real world money ?...
 
Taurine
About USD$570 ... good enough?
And you're getting it for half of that ?... You lucky bastard !....

And yes - Mighty fine ;)
 
Yes certainly am :D Only hurdle to face now is the power supply.

On the wiring side I was thinking 4ga to a distribution block then 4ga to the big amp and 8ga to the smaller amp - problem being I still don't know if my battery/engine would be able to handle it.
 
Taurine
Yes certainly am :D Only hurdle to face now is the power supply.

On the wiring side I was thinking 4ga to a distribution block then 4ga to the big amp and 8ga to the smaller amp - problem being I still don't know if my battery/engine would be able to handle it.

So what if the car tops out at 90km/h.... At least you can't hear it dying because of your custom alternator installation :D
 
PB280028.jpg

4ga on the left, 8ga on the right

PB280032.jpg


got_cable?

:D the next step towards more boom
 
I do enjoy installing audio myself, both home and car. :)

My first car I started with some Polk audio coaxiles (decent), a Sony receiver (crap..lol), a 500watt RMS amplifier (ratted at 14.4volts, so it was more like 470watts..lol), and a 12" OZ audio subwoofer in a large ported box. Can you say bass kil (hit harder and louder than most duel sub systems in my area!)... :crazy:

I was kind-of immature back then. Now, a couple years latter, I have grown up and matured. I'm still into audio, but for musical re-creation. The shimmering highs, and the low notes only a sub can create just are important to me. I can never go back....NEVER you hear...Mauuuuughghhhhhhhh

I'll just skip my Cavalier; it featured three subwoofers along the way, and the best being a Peerless. Still has the same old Pioneer deck, and Infinity Kappa speakers (3.5" front, 6x9" rear side panel). The only reason I choose Infinities, is because there isn't really anywhere else to go for 3.5" speakers...Infinity's tweeters are just to harsh for me, but the EQ can solve that fairly well at a small cost of tone.

Now I have my 1995 Acura Legend sedan; great car, 10years old and still runs like off the showroom floor; after all, it's a legend.

The factory Bose audio system didn't sound good, so out with the old and in with the new. I purchased a 1-bid D/a converted double din size Pioneer CDplayer. It's a good looking receiver, nothing fancy. In my factory front location is a set of 6.5" CDT Eurosport components and 4- CDT tweeters, along with two passive-crossovers. Two tweeters are mounted above the woofers and other tweeters in the paneling; CDT refers this to the "front image enhancer". When toned correctly, the results are amazing! It's concert quality sound, like the music is coming up front and above you! I don't know how CDT did it, but with the second passive crossover and tweeters, they created a "lifted" sound.

I simply unplugged the factory rear 6x9's and didn't add anything. Rear feel is worthless to me if the fronts can immerse you in the first place.

I added sound deadening material around the front woofers and the metal areas of the door (Acura door panels are a pain to get off... :sick: ). Also covered most of the trunk, and layer the carpet back over it - some people don't do this - keeping the untouched factory look.

In the trunk I had a 12" Renaissance (Moral Acoustics) Connon subwoofer in a polly stuffed 1.5 cubic foot box - a tad to large - . The quality was excellent until recently. It makes a hissing noise, and there is a crack on the dust cap, and the spider keeps coming off.

I'm awaiting a 12" Image Dynamic IDQ subwoofer - duel 2ohm voice coils -. I already have a .85 cubic foot sealed box for it, because the 1.5 one is to large unless I port it, which I dare to do. I've heard nothing but outstanding things from this subwoofer, can't wait. Suppose to arrive by UPS tomorrow!

Powering the system are two USaccoustics amplifiers. There is simply NOTHING that is better for your money.

As you may notice, I always go for the specialty branded speakers. For some odd reason they are better than the mass marketed stuff you find at Best Buy and other retail chains. Next time you get speakers, don't go for a company that only cares about image (Audiobahns "flame designed" magnet cover; Sony's "unicorn" subwoofers that actually hurt it's performance...), but rather go for something that strive on quality, craftsmanship, and since they don't waist money and material on "cool looking" designs, you save money. :)
 
Flerbizky
Get the biggest amp your wallet will allow. This will, as you said yourself, leave you with more room for further, ehhrrmmm, expansion ;)

And YES - BIGGER is better !....

Errmm, true, but it depends on what you want. :p

From what I hear, Sony's subs aren't all that good; otherwise, I don't know *shrugs*.

How much is your subs RMS ratting recommendation?

It's such a lovely deal!!. Meh, what do you have out there in New Zealand? Beautiful country otherwise.
 
MY system is weak right now.

- 2 10" Audiobahn Subs
- 400W Audiobahn amp (it sucks)
- Pioneer 3500 headunit
- Alpine Type S speakers all around

I'm looking at upgrading very soon.


My opinion is that Audiobahn makes great stuff for the money but there are far better. I like JL subs as well as Kickers.

I personally hate anything Sony.
 
Let see, still don't have the pictures, but here's the list:

2x Kenwood Xcelon 400w Amps
1x Rockford Fosgate DSM100 465w mono
Infinity Perfect Kappa CS 6.1 in the Front
Pioneer Center Channel
Boston Rally Series 6.5" in the Back
Single Rockford 10" sub.
Blaupukt Chicago in Dash DVD Player (configured in 5.1 surround)
2nd 7" ViewTech drop down screen
Wireless Headphones for the AUX1 input (configured for PS2/XBox/GameCube)

It sounds pretty good, especially DVD-Audio CD's, but I'm still tweeking on it. I might have to install some EQ's in front of each amp for the Mid's and High's to better balance the system. Running three different brands of speakers isn't really my idea of a good time, but oh well.

~Cheers
 
Damn, Pako. First you slaughter us with the home theater system and now this? You car sound better than most peoples home systems.

Edit: I just calibrated my home theater system and tweaked all seven speakers to within 0.5 dB. :) Sounds pretty sweet now.
 
My sister's boyfriend's system:

  • 3 12" Kicker Solo Barbaric L7 Subs
  • 2 Kicker Amps
  • 1 Sony In-Dash Flip-Up 7" Monitor
  • 1 Pyle 7" Flip-down Monitor
  • 2 Kicker Mids & 2 Kicker Tweets

Those subs are competition and believe me, those things hit hard. The pics:

The subs: http://www.kicker.com/Closeup.cfm?menu=subwoofers&image=/images/2004/products/S10L7_FRL.jpg

The Sub Amp: http://www.kicker.com/Closeup.cfm?menu=amps&image=/images/2004/products/KX700-5_L.jpg

Other amp( I think this is it, the truck isn't here): http://www.kicker.com/Closeup.cfm?menu=amps&image=/images/2004/products/KX350-2_L.jpg

Flip Down Monitor(headphones not in his truck): http://www.pyleaudio.com/EL/PLVWR71IR.jpg

In dash monitor/ stereo: http://www.xplodsony.com/products/?CATEGORY=Video&MD=XAV-7W
 
I don't care what opinions others have on Sony. I'm not going to go all out and spend heaps trying to get the 'perfect sound'. All I want is something cheap that goes hard and pleases my ears.

My subs rms rating is 400wrms and I'll be feeding them 450wrms each.
 
TB
Damn, Pako. First you slaughter us with the home theater system and now this? You car sound better than most peoples home systems.

Edit: I just calibrated my home theater system and tweaked all seven speakers to within 0.5 dB. :) Sounds pretty sweet now.

It's really hard. The home theatre sounds so good, that I find myself forever unsatisfied with the car setup. I had to stay practical with storage space so I wasn't able to get the Subs I wanted in a proper enclosure for a more balanced setup so I need to try and keep in mind that it will NEVER sound as good as the home setup. That's why I let the wife drive it, but it's great for long trips. We just came back from Billings over the holidays, about a 1,000 miles round trip. Had enough time to watch the entire Starwars Trilogy EP 4, 5, & 6, with my son in the back playing his PS2 game. It is nice and it does make trips alot more enjoyable.

How did you calibrate your HT setup? SPL meters, white noise, self calibrating mics, using the good ol'e ear?

~Peace
 
Taurine
I don't care what opinions others have on Sony. I'm not going to go all out and spend heaps trying to get the 'perfect sound'. All I want is something cheap that goes hard and pleases my ears.

My subs rms rating is 400wrms and I'll be feeding them 450wrms each.

Believe me he didn't get it for the brand. He was going for a bargain, meaning good product at a cheap price. Not because of the brand. The Kicker was because it is his favorite brand and they do sound very nice. They are also competition Subs. Remember the Sony is the monitor, not the subs.
 
That wasn't directed at you but thats the reason why I've gone Sony - I can get them damn cheap and they do the job I want them too.
 
Pako
How did you calibrate your HT setup? SPL meters, white noise, self calibrating mics, using the good ol'e ear?

~Peace
I used a calibration DVD with various white and pink noise measured with a decibel meter. The down side is the DVD is only for 5.1 and I have a 6.1 system, so I had to get the levels set for 5.1 and use the receivers white noise pan to get the rear center level set. I then screwed the whole thing up by raising the center channel 2dB. :)
 
TB
I used a calibration DVD with various white and pink noise measured with a decibel meter. The down side is the DVD is only for 5.1 and I have a 6.1 system, so I had to get the levels set for 5.1 and use the receivers white noise pan to get the rear center level set. I then screwed the whole thing up by raising the center channel 2dB. :)

LOL, don't worry about screwing the whole thing up....., everybody tends to raise the center up more that what the meter will tell you. After a few months now of listening to my system across multiple media's types and different quality levels of recordings, I am finally happy with the 7.1 mix in all aspects. I'm a button guy, and this receiver gives me more tweek options that I know what to do with, so it's hard for me to just 'leave it alone'. Through an entire movie I used to tweek on levels though out...... Now I can finally just sit back, relax, and enjoy the movie.

The 4Runners 5.1 system, however, is a different situation. The Center channel speaker sucks. I mean, it's OK for what it is and might sound better if the rest of the speakers were of matching tembre, but this is not the case. The dialog sounds like your listening to a movie on a air plane with one of the old, air type of head phone that they would sell you for $5.00. It's horrible. Not sure what else to do, there's not a whole lot of mounting options for speakers on the Dash, and I'm not about the cut into the dash to mount another Infinity Kappa, although that would be the best match for the front stage. Oh well, life goes on and the quest for tone continues.

~Cheers
 
The quest for tone is a never-ending, love-hate battle. A battle that I am happy with the results of....for now. And I have always felt that the center should be louder than the rest. Just one of those gut things that you know technically isn't correct but you do it anyway.
 
ok, i have a couple questions.

what is the difference between amps (are they all just the same with dif brand names)?

how can i tell if a sub is good or not
 
The only real difference between amps is the power out put, measured in Watts. But you must look at the RMS power rating to really see what its potential is and what it will be like hooked up to the system you are planning to get.

There is no real way to tell if a sub is good, check its peak power handeling, typically the higher it is the better the sub.

Pretty much Audiobahn, Kicker, and JL are going to be your best bet if you want named brand stuff.

Stay away from Sony and MTX, I've only ever had really bad experiences with them. Sony woolfers blow out real easy I found, they are worse in cold weather states. Yes weather make things not work as well.
 
DoZeRxXx
ok, i have a couple questions.

what is the difference between amps (are they all just the same with dif brand names)?

how can i tell if a sub is good or not

BlazinXtreme
The only real difference between amps is the power out put, measured in Watts. But you must look at the RMS power rating to really see what its potential is and what it will be like hooked up to the system you are planning to get.

There is no real way to tell if a sub is good, check its peak power handeling, typically the higher it is the better the sub.

Pretty much Audiobahn, Kicker, and JL are going to be your best bet if you want named brand stuff.

Stay away from Sony and MTX, I've only ever had really bad experiences with them. Sony woolfers blow out real easy I found, they are worse in cold weather states. Yes weather make things not work as well.
AMPS
I have been really impressed with the MTX amps I have bought. The are so much smaller in physical size but have more power than most other amps for similar price. My main suggestion is do not ever buy the cheapy amps. Example: "This Sparkomatic amp is 1000 watts and is only $100." Chances are it will really only put out about 150 watts. You really get what you pay for. If you go put out a little extra money and get a good amp then you will be satisfied. Always get the 3 and 4 year warranties with them too. You just never know what will happen and its so nice to just walk into the store a year later with a damaged product and they replace it right there with a new one. You should be able to get a really good amp for those subs for around $300-$400.
Subs
To check the subs. Run a test on it to see how many OHMS it is pushing out. If it is a 4OHM sub then it should be still putting out 4OHM. If it puts out less than that then the sub is worn or damaged. Get speakers that handle quite a bit more power than the amp you buy. IF you get 200 watt speakers and an amp that puts 200watts to each sub. Chances are you will blow it.
The key way to avoid blowing subs is to know how to set them up properly with the correct frequencies and HRTz. Subs in the 12" range will live longer if only lower frequencies travel thru them.
And another major hint. Dont do the most stupid thing that people do and crank the bass all the way up on your deck that just leads to unneccesary distortion to all the speakers and results in damage. There lots of helpful hints. 👍
 
Kicker Competition Subs (L7s) are very good subs, they hit real hard.;)
 
Right now my brother has a bose 10 speaker sound system. but i baught him 3 15 inch 1500 watt mobile authority subs for his audi a4 as a christmas present. and for his b-day im buying him a couple more amp then his one he has now.
 
It's christmas soon, how about buying me some new subs and amps? :sly:

Hah, no need though, bought myself a Sony XM2100 amplifier. 1 x 600w so it's enough for me but most importantly it allows my smaller amp to run my 6" speakers which sound heaps better now.
 
Time for a thread ressurection!

New car, new setup:

Panasonic CQC7300 MP3/WMA headunit
Soundstream XSC6 6" (6.5"? - can't remember) component speakers

and just today I bought these:



Thats a Soundstream Exact 12" sub and a Soundstream 480.4 Xstream amplifier.

:D Going to go out now and purchase wood needed for box construction 👍
 
Box built but not completed:



Still have to smooth everything out, get it properly sealed and carpeted. I still also need to run another set of RCA cables and the required speaker wire in order to connect my components to my amplifier 👍
 
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