Car loses control when braking at high speeds?

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I'm using the Team Phoenix R8 and whenever i brake at 150mph+ the car loses control and turns. What should I adjust to fix it.

Yep, it's a b!tch ;-) Run more rear brake bias - 5/6 and ABS 1. This is also most noticeable at the chase on Conrod Straight at Bathurst. Make sure you brake only in a straight line and try and stay off the bumps. I personally just about can't drive this car fast.

Another example of how this Beta release is broken because I cannot believe in real life this car drives this bad. There would be dead drivers at every circuit and on the front page of every newspaper!
 
If you want a cheap easy fix keep your foot on the gas while you brake. Or besides the other suggestions you can try raising the deceleration sensitivity on your LSD
 
Sorry but you are wrong here. On any car that has more weigh bias at the rear you need to run more rear brake bias because under braking the weight transfer throws too much to the front and it "squirms" under brakes. The car needs more rear brakes to *try* and hold it in a straight line.
That would be my understanding but doesn't that make the car tend towards oversteer under the latter parts of braking?

I'm not sure it's any one thing but the brakes are usually the place I'd start either way.
 
I'm using the Team Phoenix R8 and whenever i brake at 150mph+ the car loses control and turns. What should I adjust to fix it.
Try this: RIDOX Replica Garage R8 Tune
You can't fix the issues on this car by changing one parameter it's more complicated than that. Even this tune doesn't fix all the issues but it moves it in the right direction.
 
That would be my understanding but doesn't that make the car tend towards oversteer under the latter parts of braking?

I'm not sure it's any one thing but the brakes are usually the place I'd start either way.

Correct. That's why I recommended braking in a straight line.
The only description I have for the standard handling of this car is "Evil".

BTW I mainly race stock, untuned cars so all my comments will refer to the standard model and what the game will allow you to alter.
 
maybe sounds strange but in that case i would raise the brakes in the back, like : front 4 back 7 (like @TT92 )
it will keep the car in a straight line while braking...
Also be aware that you need full downforce when braking ... to keep it steady
 
Sorry but you are wrong here. On any car that has more weigh bias at the rear you need to run more rear brake bias because under braking the weight transfer throws too much to the front and it "squirms" under brakes. The car needs more rear brakes to *try* and hold it in a straight line.

You don't understand how brake bias works vs how a car handles under braking. After the weight transfers to the front under braking, there is a certain amount of grip available at the rear. If more of that available rear grip is used for braking (higher brake rear bias) there is less available for lateral loads and the car will more likely get sideways. Its very simple physics.

To the OP, you want to reduce rear bias. If you have set rear brake bias at 0 then next thing you can do is turn up the ABS value.
 
You don't understand how brake bias works vs how a car handles under braking. After the weight transfers to the front under braking, there is a certain amount of grip available at the rear. If more of that available rear grip is used for braking (higher brake rear bias) there is less available for lateral loads and the car will more likely get sideways. Its very simple physics.

To the OP, you want to reduce rear bias. If you have set rear brake bias at 0 then next thing you can do is turn up the ABS value.

In real life what you say is true, are you sure that what @Squanto says is not true for GT6? Lots of things that work in real life don't work in GT6 and vice versa.
 
You don't understand how brake bias works vs how a car handles under braking. After the weight transfers to the front under braking, there is a certain amount of grip available at the rear. If more of that available rear grip is used for braking (higher brake rear bias) there is less available for lateral loads and the car will more likely get sideways. Its very simple physics.

To the OP, you want to reduce rear bias. If you have set rear brake bias at 0 then next thing you can do is turn up the ABS value.

We are discussing how things work in THIS game. It is completely pointless to try and apply any *REAL WORLD* principals to this broken, half assed, Beta game.

It is quite simple to prove what I have said is correct. Please try it and then get back to me with your comments. Note: standard, unmodified car, all assists off, ABS =1 SS-RH tyres try it at Bathurst going into the Chase at top speed. You will quickly get the idea ;-)
 
I have the brakes set at 6/2, and that works fine. Increase rear toe to 0.35 or so, and ad some neg toe in the front. Say -0.10.
 
I run Bathhurst ALOT and pretty much on all my cars I run 5/1 on my brakes and never have a problem with the spin while braking problem after using that setting
 
I fixed this easily. Reduce braking sensitivity (diff) to 5, then take the BB to about 3/1. If you have a decnt enough ride height and a stable setup, you should have no problem.
 
That Bathurst section is where I test my cars too. I, along with many others, had massive problems with brakes after hitting top speed causing me to instantly spin out. This NEVER happened until I went to Racing soft front and rear. After a lot of settings and adjustment, the very simple fix was to put racing medium on the front, racing soft rear. That INSTANTLY fixed the problem for me on a couple of my cars.
 
That Bathurst section is where I test my cars too. I, along with many others, had massive problems with brakes after hitting top speed causing me to instantly spin out. This NEVER happened until I went to Racing soft front and rear. After a lot of settings and adjustment, the very simple fix was to put racing medium on the front, racing soft rear. That INSTANTLY fixed the problem for me on a couple of my cars.
Even RM front and rear will cure it. At Brands GP, I was able to lap quicker in my R8 with RH on against RS :O
 
Even RM front and rear will cure it. At Brands GP, I was able to lap quicker in my R8 with RH on against RS :O
Yup its something bugged with the coding of the racing soft tires for sure. Several threads about it too.

Honestly if anyone is having problems with their cars while using racing soft tires, at least switch your front to racing medium and it resolves the problems instantly.
Brake in a straight line, it's what I do.
That's not the issue and I am sure you are aware of that.
 
We are discussing how things work in THIS game. It is completely pointless to try and apply any *REAL WORLD* principals to this broken, half assed, Beta game.

It is quite simple to prove what I have said is correct. Please try it and then get back to me with your comments. Note: standard, unmodified car, all assists off, ABS =1 SS-RH tyres try it at Bathurst going into the Chase at top speed. You will quickly get the idea ;-)

This is not a "standard, unmodified car" though, the team Team Phoenix R8 that has racing brakes and the bias with racing brakes seems to work very much like real life. However there are some cars that you simply can't turn down the rear bias enough to help the described problem, and then you can help it by upping the ABS. If you have the rear bias at 0 and still have issues then lowering the front may help it squirming under braking because of the reduced transfer of weight to the front, but you are also removing total braking ability which seems like a bad trade off when you could instead just raise ABS to help and keep full braking ability.

This info is all based on the 400+ cars I have already driven and tweaked the setup on in GT6.
 
This is not a "standard, unmodified car" though, the team Team Phoenix R8 that has racing brakes and the bias with racing brakes seems to work very much like real life. However there are some cars that you simply can't turn down the rear bias enough to help the described problem, and then you can help it by upping the ABS. If you have the rear bias at 0 and still have issues then lowering the front may help it squirming under braking because of the reduced transfer of weight to the front, but you are also removing total braking ability which seems like a bad trade off when you could instead just raise ABS to help and keep full braking ability.

This info is all based on the 400+ cars I have already driven and tweaked the setup on in GT6.

My group races a lot of un-tuned race cars on sport soft tyres, all aids off except ABS1.

At no point did I say that you could not tune this characteristic out/down.

I have passed a comment for what works under those circumstances and yet people seem to be unable or unwilling to read simple English and wish to argue for the sake of arguing.

Ahhh the joys of forums where keyboard heroes abound :-(
 
Well @Squanto also pointed out to me that he tunes his cars to have more brake bias to the back of the car. To be honost I was totally flabbergasted when he said that. As @z06fun points out, this will never work in real life. And no racing sim I've ever played worked like that. I've tested this in GT6 and for me it doens't work to put more braking bias to the back of the car.

But then, hey, everybody should do what works for them. ;)
It also depends on your driving style, I prefer to have a stable car in the braking zone, enabling me to brake well into the corner and to brake as late as possible.
 
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