Car loses control when braking at high speeds?

[Squanto]

Well @Squanto also pointed out to me that he tunes his cars to have more brake bias to the back of the car. To be honost I was totally flabbergasted when he said that. As @z06fun points out, this will never work in real life.

Remember when you rode your Bicycle to school? and you braked hard with your rear brake so your rearwheel locked and made the squeaky sound? ... remember the feel on your bike ...IRL?
thats the same that happens to your car when you let the rear brake harder then your front ... it is working IRL aswell...

 

[Fong74]

I'm using the Team Phoenix R8 and whenever i brake at 150mph+ the car loses control and turns. What should I adjust to fix it.

As stated before: its a bug with MR cars, very evident with the R8s combined with the general pitstop bug which changes the handling of the cars very much.

Take your R8 out in an online lobby. Put the standard set on. Get on track at Nür GP for example. You will spin like crazy here and there. Pit when you feel like it. Go out.....and there is the difference. BAM! Another car. A car that drives like you would it expect to do. Tail-happy cos its a MR, but a vast difference to what was going on befor you hit the pits...

The effect was not removed with 1.05 which is a pity

 

[mr_van79]

Remember when you rode your Bicycle to school? and you braked hard with your rear brake so your rearwheel locked and made the squeaky sound? ... remember the feel on your bike ...IRL?
thats the same that happens to your car when you let the rear brake harder then your front ... it is working IRL aswell...

Did you also notice that when you do that on your bicycle it's almost impossible to brake in a straight line, let alone try to corner whilst your rearwheel is locked.

Look at a motorbike, they're always biased to the front (large braking disk in the front, small on the rear). Same for cars. Or if it's a cheaper model, discs in the front, drums on the back.

But then again it doesn't really matter what's happening IRL, what's most important for us is how the physics are implemented in GT6. Maybe it's got to do with the bug for the MR cars as @Fong74 states. That in combination with this bug it's better to have a braking bias more pronounced to the back.

 

[mr_van79]

Ok, I had to know for myself. So I took the R8 out to the Nurburgring GP circuit for a spin. Great car BTW. I ran about 32 laps with it using different settings for the brake bias. Well first thing to note is that this car's unbalance is NOT because of the brake bias setting. It's really about when you apply the throttle. If you're too quick on the throttle, massive oversteer.

I ran these brake bias settings:
Front-Rear
5-5
6-2
2-6

I was able to run quick laptimes (2:00 to 2:01 a lap) using all these settings as long as I was carefull on the throttle. But I'm glad to see, and I wouldn't expect otherwise from PD , that the physics regarding the brake bias simulate real life. The car is much more stable in the braking zone when your running a front biased setting compared to a rear biased setting. With the rear biased setting the rear wheels tend to lock up faster. Hence, creating oversteer in the braking zone, which you need to correct and it's very hard to brake into the corner. As I said before I prefer a more stable (slightly understeer pronounced) car in the braking zone.

Conclusion for the R8 with standard settings (no tuning except brake bias):
1. Be careful on when to apply the throttle. Tip: don't slam the accelerator, when you start applying the accelerator exiting a corner make sure that you don't have to release it again before the next corner. If you release the accelerator in a corner you'll create unbalance in the car.
2. Use the brake bias you're most comfortable with
3. Stay away from the curbstones with this car

 

[Squanto]

Ok, I had to know for myself. So I took the R8 out to the Nurburgring GP circuit for a spin. Great car BTW. I ran about 32 laps with it using different settings for the brake bias. Well first thing to note is that this car's unbalance is NOT because of the brake bias setting. It's really about when you apply the throttle. If you're too quick on the throttle, massive oversteer.

I ran these brake bias settings:
Front-Rear
5-5
6-2
2-6

I was able to run quick laptimes (2:00 to 2:01 a lap) using all these settings as long as I was carefull on the throttle. But I'm glad to see, and I wouldn't expect otherwise from PD , that the physics regarding the brake bias simulate real life. The car is much more stable in the braking zone when your running a front biased setting compared to a rear biased setting. With the rear biased setting the rear wheels tend to lock up faster. Hence, creating oversteer in the braking zone, which you need to correct and it's very hard to brake into the corner. As I said before I prefer a more stable (slightly understeer pronounced) car in the braking zone.

Conclusion for the R8 with standard settings (no tuning except brake bias):
1. Be careful on when to apply the throttle. Tip: don't slam the accelerator, when you start applying the accelerator exiting a corner make sure that you don't have to release it again before the next corner. If you release the accelerator in a corner you'll create unbalance in the car.
2. Use the brake bias you're most comfortable with
3. Stay away from the curbstones with this car

Now that's a good way to address an issue !
Thanks for getting this sorted out, nice track you choose too bad you didn't also test here ...

Yep, it's a b!tch ;-) Run more rear brake bias - 5/6 and ABS 1. This is also most noticeable at the chase on Conrod Straight at Bathurst. Make sure you brake only in a straight line and try and stay off the bumps. I personally just about can't drive this car fast.

Because the Schumacher S and Veedol are really different to Conrod Straight ... I hope you try that one as well ...
That part has the typical right curve while you have to brake ... coming from a high speed straight

Anxious to see your findings on that stretch ...

BTW: i always use 4/7 brake bias in these situations ... abs to 0 in GT6

 

[SmileyOr]

That part has the typical right curve while you have to brake ... coming from a high speed straight

I've done some high speed laps at Portland International Raceway. The back "straight" is not straight. It's a long right hander and was unnerving enough at close to 100 mph in a heavy AWD Audi Allroad. I hate tracks where you have to brake into them with a car that is not setup for them. It makes me really appreciate the cars that are setup properly or handle them much better with default setups.

Some cars handle so well you feel like you're flying and not breaking a sweat. Then switch cars and drive the same track and be spinning out all over the place. Of course, once you setup those twitchy cars they are faster

 

[FussyFez]

Due to all the hullabaloo surrounding this car, I bought one.

Out of the box, it feels like an LMP car, barely any steering input needed, and any major throttle or braking inputs mid corner = spin.

But drive it how it demands, and it's damn fast. The front end grip is astonishing, but you need to be very gentle with the steering.


After about 20 laps at bathurst, I was running 2:09's consistently with no assists (inc abs 0), RH and everything completely stock (no oil change 599pp offline arcade race)

I then looked at the suspension.

Removed camber, added 0.10 front toe in, upped the rear ext to 7, comp at 4, dropped rear springs to 20.00 and upped the front springs to 17.00, arbs up to 6 on the front and 5 on the rear, and ride height 75 front and rear. Front dampers are 5 on both.

Then I set the diff 60/10/60, brake balance 5:3 and upped the rear down force to 900.


Took her back out, and although she is still a very pointy MR race car, the rear is much more planted, and aslong as you respect her, she's seriously capable.

Ran consistent 2:06's with this setup.

Might have missed a couple of bits, but this car is excellent, it just needs a good setup, same as the Z4 that someone else was complaining about.



I'll go on to say, that in my infinite lap arcade race testing with this car, I have had some of the best AI racing that I have experienced. It does require you to bunch the pack, but after doing so, I had the whole pack side by side up the first part of the mountain, and through the triple left hander, then VERY close through the downhill section. Great fun. This car is great for pilots, but probably too on edge for the drivers that prefer bullet proof stability.

 

[KingSakery]

My few sentences to this:
+ Raise the gearing a bit (not extremely but make them a tad longer => little less aggressive when throttle applied)
+ Raise the Deceleration setting of the LSD
+ more positive Toe on both axles
+ soften the rear compared to the front
+ more Downforce rear or less downforce upfront (or even both)
+ remove the camber on the rear axle and leave a little on front => creating understeer (little amount though)

Brakebias is a thing me doesn´t set to higher rear amount, only if it rains hard. And me never felt a difference even with huge amount of test laps.

Fiddle with some settings maybe you find the thing for your driving style.