Wow, great info... Thanks for the heads up. Just emailed parts express about there shipping!
I'm gonna take a look into the behringer amp here in Hong Kong... My studio is currently running a behringer europower ep4000.. So will talk to our supplier about that. Are u running the 1000w inuke?!?
Btw, Does the butt kicker lfe bottom out much?!? I find I'm getting a lot of bottoming out on gamer 2's, is anyone else having this experience?!?
I use the iNuke 1000DSP to drive a mini LFE and the Gamer 2. Without bottoming out.
Channel A runs the mini LFE at 2 ohm impedance, while Channel B runs the Gamer 2 at 4 ohm impedance.
Channel A is driven by the front left/right channels of Simvibe Chassis mode, while Channel B is driven by the rear left/right channels of Simvibe Chassis mode.
So one speaker is for the front under the pedal plate, the other for the rear effects (and is on the rSeat Gamer 2 mount). Will probably expand in the future.
I than use the delay (which is part of the DSP, and thus only on the iNuke DSP amps) to set the offset or distance of the speaker to the axle. If i had 4 speakers it would be to their respective tyre locations if my rig was mounted in a real car.
So on Channel A I have a delay of 0.75 meters, 2.46 feet or 2.19 miliseconds.
On Channel B I have a delay of 1.95 meters, 6.40 feet or 5.69 miliseconds.
Why do I use delay?
Simple, sound as well as vibrations travel. This travel takes time. The longer the distance, the longer it takes for a vibration to reach me in my driver's position.
Now as simvibe tends to fire the effects immediately once the car's suspension picks up a bump, it does not mean that the sound traveling through the rig takes the correct time to reach you.
In fact it's too short, as most often your tactile speaker sits closer to you on your rig than ever your wheels would in your real car.
So when the time to travel is short (or the vibrations reach you too quickly) you get the feeling you're in a small car like a Peel P50. While you maybe drive a big Cadillac in iRacing.
So by increasing the delay, I further away the speakers virtually from their respective mounting position on my rig. Increasing the delay between what's happening on my screen and what's reaching my butt in the end.
I really get a sense of driving something substantial with this and would urge anyway to at least try to fool around with it.
By the way, you'd need a iNuke 6000DSP for the big LFE though. Anything smaller is not powerful enough to drive the LFE properly.
The reason the Gamer 2 bottoms out (and any other speaker) is because the amp starts to clip. Which means the amp is too weak to drive the speaker.
The Buttkicker Gamer 2 kit is basically useless. The tactile speaker is great, but the amp is not up to the task of driving it. The maximum wattage of the amp is around the minimum wattage of the tactile speaker.
This means that as soon as the speaker starts to move, the amp already starts to clip. Causing the speaker to bottom out.
Here is a video about clipping:
So if you get an iNuke 1000DSP for that Gamer 2 of yours, you're good.

Besides, you can fool around with the DSP. And honestly, the vibrations seemed much smoother and less harsh, and mainly more correct with the iNuke. It's really a great quality amp.