Controller/Wheel Settings

After the first weekend, I've figured out these settings for the Dual Shock 4:

Code:
Steering Sensitivity:   25
Throttle Sensitivity:   45
Brake Sensitivity:      45

These sensitivities control the linearity of input from the controller.
0-49 is slower near the center/low end and faster at the end of the axis.
51-100 is faster near the center/low end and slower at the end of the axis.

Code:
Speed Sensitivity:      85 (80-90)
Controller Damping:     75 (70-75)

Speed Sensitivity controls the maximum steering lock based on your speed.
95 is the default, setting it lower = greater steering response.

Controller Damping controls the maximum rate of steering.
67 is the default, setting it lower = quicker steering response.

When countersteering, the game allows for more opposite lock to enable you to recover.

This setup strikes a balance between smooth damping and additional control, specifically for initiating, catching, and recovering from oversteer. The extra response of the lower Speed Sensitivity is compensated for by the lower Steering Sensitivity and extra Controller Damping, which allow for some tap-steering, but it should be noted that I've adopted a smoother style of steering for the sharper handling in PCARS games.
 
IMG_2567.jpg
using these settings for the T150 , works well with every car
 
Help!!! Every car I drive wants to spin in every turn, especially while braking. I'm on a DS4. So far I gotta say this game has been a waste of $60. The physics are terrible at default settings, but nothing I do seems to change it! Feeling very discouraged right now.
 
After the first weekend, I've figured out these settings for the Dual Shock 4:

Code:
Steering Sensitivity:   25
Throttle Sensitivity:   45
Brake Sensitivity:      45

These sensitivities control the linearity of input from the controller.
0-49 is slower near the center/low end and faster at the end of the axis.
51-100 is faster near the center/low end and slower at the end of the axis.

Code:
Speed Sensitivity:      85 (80-90)
Controller Damping:     75 (70-75)

Speed Sensitivity controls the maximum steering lock based on your speed.
95 is the default, setting it lower = greater steering response.

Controller Damping controls the maximum rate of steering.
67 is the default, setting it lower = quicker steering response.

When countersteering, the game allows for more opposite lock to enable you to recover.

This setup strikes a balance between smooth damping and additional control, specifically for initiating, catching, and recovering from oversteer. The extra response of the lower Speed Sensitivity is compensated for by the lower Steering Sensitivity and extra Controller Damping, which allow for some tap-steering, but it should be noted that I've adopted a smoother style of steering for the sharper handling in PCARS games.
What about deadzones?
 
Last edited:
View attachment 675376 using these settings for the T150 , works well with every car
Thanks makes a big difference. What system are you using etc? I would be interested in other settings also, specifically brake settings for the wheel. My biggest issues currently are braking have to brake early to make it through turns without locking the breaks and then getting on the power to quick after breaking for most cars often times causes the cars to have rough jerk pull and cause spin-out. Not sure how much of this is game settings or car settings, most likely a combination.
 
What about deadzones?
Whatever suits the tolerances on your controller, or your preference. I have 5 on steering, and 2 on throttle/brake.

Is the game playable on controller(DS4) with the default settings?
Yes, but you're still better off taking the time to adjust them. Some people will like the defaults, but it's worth trying other settings because it's a pretty straightforward arrangement this time.
 
Having a dead zone issue here with the CSR Elite. Some cars not so bad but some are near undrivable. the 66 Mustang is the worst so far with almost 2 inch dead zone in the center. Is like driving an old ford with a worn out steering box.

I have been trying to tweak the txt file and set the game to custom but does not seem to be making any noticeable difference so far.
Are you using "Speed Sensitive Steering"? Should be set to "0", otherwise it will reduce the steering response (lower ratio).

EDIT: I just realized I responded to an fairly old post (Thursday of last week), I assume you have your wheel figured out by now.
 
Should I set speed sensitivity to 0 or to stock 50 if I don't want any kind of speed related effect to the steering?
If your using a gamepad, Speed Sensitive steering should be a help, but with a wheel it ruins the steering ratio (slows down response).
 
Thanks makes a big difference. What system are you using etc? I would be interested in other settings also, specifically brake settings for the wheel. My biggest issues currently are braking have to brake early to make it through turns without locking the breaks and then getting on the power to quick after breaking for most cars often times causes the cars to have rough jerk pull and cause spin-out. Not sure how much of this is game settings or car settings, most likely a combination.


ps4 pro, you just have to go easy on the throttle until you warm up your tyres
 
Help!!! Every car I drive wants to spin in every turn, especially while braking. I'm on a DS4. So far I gotta say this game has been a waste of $60. The physics are terrible at default settings, but nothing I do seems to change it! Feeling very discouraged right now.
see post 122 above
 
If your using a gamepad, Speed Sensitive steering should be a help, but with a wheel it ruins the steering ratio (slows down response).
Using a wheel, just got confused as many seem to suggest that speed sensitivity should be set at 50, for example this video:

But yeah, after a bit of testing 0 seems to be the only right value for wheel users..
 
Are you using "Speed Sensitive Steering"? Should be set to "0", otherwise it will reduce the steering response (lower ratio).

EDIT: I just realized I responded to an fairly old post (Thursday of last week), I assume you have your wheel figured out by now.

I have made some headway, still not quite where I want it. Speed Sensitivity has been at 0 from the beginning. The issue is that they removed the Deadzone Removal and FallOff Range settings from the FFB screens. Now you must use Custom and then manually edit a text file to effect this. You also have to exit and restart the game for any changes to take effect so it is a major pain to tweak.
This new FFB system is intended to make it easier for the users and for many I am sure it does but for some of us it is a lot worse than PC1.
 
Has anyone fiddle with drifting on this game yet, I need to know if it's just me or maybe steering wheel that feels like this because it gets inconsistent on transitions. It's totally weightless on transitions if you want to do consistent drifting. Don't mind the vehicle smoking and then the engine blowing at the end, I was having overheating issues so I tried to sit and let it cool down. The large snaps to angle isn't the car setup, it's the steering wheel. You can see how smooth the first corner was, but when going aggressive the wheel just offers no feel and it just rotates super fast.


 
I've not tried any actual drifting but I was drifting a little on a track the other day. Basically the car started to get a little sideways so I turned into it a little and was riding the slide through the corner. I very gently turned into the slide and it felt like the front wheels were not doing as much as they should so the slide angle was slowing increasing. I slowly add a little more input and am continuing to ride the slide then suddenly the front grabs and the rear snaps back hard the other direction and control is lost.

I find it odd that the cars feel so good and life like under normal conditions but then when they go into a slide they behave nothing like a real car.
 
nothing like a real car.
I'm sorry but care to give examples of you driving a real car at the limit and over it?

I see so many people say "not like real life" but watching videos of cars racing, whether it be on board shots or not, does not give you an informed opinion about what a real car does or feels like. Unless a driver is detailing every last bit of information about what's happening, you just don't know and you can't analyze it all from just a visual.
 
I agree that it acts nothing like a real car does when it gets sideways. I'm trying to delv deeper into it but first want to try to perfect wheel settings if I can...

Pictures for verification that I can and do know what a real car is supposed to do. Oh and on sonoma raceway, the same track I'm trying to skid for reference.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_9696.JPG
    IMG_9696.JPG
    82.3 KB · Views: 42
I agree that it acts nothing like a real car does when it gets sideways. I'm trying to delv deeper into it but first want to try to perfect wheel settings if I can...

Pictures for verification that I can and do know what a real car is supposed to do. Oh and on sonoma raceway, the same track I'm trying to skid for reference.
It's great to see people really out on track
 
That's the thing, when I'm not on track I'm on my sim rigs always brushing up or trying to stay sharp, so these weird quirks I want to try and work through instead of just call it quits on the game and blame the developers. For grip this game is really good and I'm interested to see if they update it to fix these other small flaws.
 
I'm sorry but care to give examples of you driving a real car at the limit and over it?
Examples, 40+ years of driving in general, back when I was young I used to do some street racing and lots of high speed driving. I have also did quite a lot of testing in many different cars and of different types of surfaces. I have had cars sideways plenty of times and have never ever I had a real car even try snap back like they do in the game and in the game it is a common occurrence.

In game it almost feels like the front tires loose grip and the over all handling of the car degrades once the rear gets sideways then after a brief delay the front gets full grip and snap. This does not happen in real life.

Care to give an example of this type of thing happening on a regular basis in a real car?
 
So back to the game and its handling properties, my flavor setting is on Raw and sliders are 80 55 60 50. I somehow feel like I need to get the fanatec CSL For PS4 because people keep telling me that my issue is possibly hardware, but I've yet to see anyone successfully doing work on this platform yet.
 
For the PC version using the CSR Elite wheel the best setting I have found to solve the deadzone issues is to use custom setting in game then edit the text file.
Change this part
# Final Tighten for some particularly deadzoney wheels
(output (tighten output device_tighten 0.02))
to
# Final Tighten for some particularly deadzoney wheels
(output (tighten output 0.016 0.01))

I also recommend using one of Jack Spades custom files then change that value to the one shown above. This seems to work pretty well.

The numbers I am using are what I had in PCars1. I had tweaked the values using the shifter kart and tightened the steering up to the point where it would oscillate while going straight then backed it off just enough to stop that from happening.
 
Has anyone fiddle with drifting on this game yet, I need to know if it's just me or maybe steering wheel that feels like this because it gets inconsistent on transitions. It's totally weightless on transitions if you want to do consistent drifting. Don't mind the vehicle smoking and then the engine blowing at the end, I was having overheating issues so I tried to sit and let it cool down. The large snaps to angle isn't the car setup, it's the steering wheel. You can see how smooth the first corner was, but when going aggressive the wheel just offers no feel and it just rotates super fast.

I'd like to know that too. Also, what settings are you using for your car, all assists off?
 
Not sure if I have a bug here or not, maybe I'm missing something.

XB1 - Fan CSW v2 rev316 -
Raw (default settings in game 100, 50, 50, etc.)
Wheel . . .
Sens Auto
FF Auto or 100
SHO Off
Abs 80
Dri off
BRKF 50

Run a practice session (and this happens on at least Road American and RedBull Ring) with Z4 GT3 and Caddy GT3, no issues- feedback is heavy (which I like) no clipping. Exit and start a custom race, same car same track and the wheel clips out harshly from what seems like basic road feel fx. Totally unplayable. Exit and go back to the practice, ffb is fine. Rinse, repeat. I have rebooted, recalibrated, hard reset my XB. I reset all custom race settings to default, and tried again, it's better but still clipping. The weird thing to me is that my very first outing was a custom race in an F40 Comp at Long Beach- no issue what so ever in any session, practice, qualify, race.

Are their feedback settings being saved by car/track? I'm not sure a yes totally explains the issue, as I took the caddy out without making any changes to the tune/controls/ffb.

I'd really like to figure out what is going on so I can get it corrected or report a bug. Anyone running similar gear/settings or have time to test that would be great. Simplest test would be default settings for wheel/ffb, RAW, Z4 @ Road America. Run a practice, then run a custom race. If you experience what I experienced, the testing will go fine, first practice session, you'll know by turn one something is wrong.

You have the exact same issue as me - no issues in Practice but in races the wheel is a jackhammer. Absolutely unplayable, noisy and perhaps dangerous. Its a massive bug and needs a quick fix
 
Back