CSL elite vs T-GT

  • Thread starter serlemke
  • 52 comments
  • 11,733 views

Which one you have?

  • T-GT

    Votes: 14 14.7%

  • Fanatec CSL Elite

    Votes: 29 30.5%

  • T300

    Votes: 15 15.8%

  • Controler

    Votes: 8 8.4%

  • Other

    Votes: 11 11.6%

  • G29

    Votes: 18 18.9%
  • Total voters
    95
I'm also a Thrustmaster T-GT owner and
I've never owned or used the Fanatec CSL Elite. So I went to Amazon to check out the price of buying a new one and holly crap $1900 and you don't even get a pedal set with it.???

Screenshot_20190920-104607_Amazon Shopping.jpg



And here people complain about the price of the T-GT so I can't see that many people willing to dump over $2000 on a wheel. I somehow thought this was a close comparison between two different wheels and boy was I ever wrong.

I'm sure the CSL Elite is the **** and it looks freaking awesome but come on unless your a super sim racing nut this wheel is simply to much & almost out of a normal person's price range.
The T-GT is much cheaper and it's made just for Gran Turismo and it works absolutely great.
The only complaint I have about the T-GT is the stock pedals but at least it comes with pedals. To get the most out of your T-GT don't even bother to unpack the pedals it comes with and just go buy the T3PA-PRO set for under $200 and you will have yourself one awesome setup for GTSPORT.
Setting up my T3PA-PRO pedal set GT style was a game changer for me.
Not to mention you can buy all this new for under $800 and that's well below the $2000

I would really like to try the CSL Elite to see if it's worth that kind of price or not.
 
Rinsky
I'm also a Thrustmaster T-GT owner and
I've never owned or used the Fanatec CSL Elite. So I went to Amazon to check out the price of buying a new one and holly crap $1900 and you don't even get a pedal set with it.???

View attachment 852248


And here people complain about the price of the T-GT so I can't see that many people willing to dump over $2000 on a wheel. I somehow thought this was a close comparison between two different wheels and boy was I ever wrong.

I'm sure the CSL Elite is the **** and it looks freaking awesome but come on unless your a super sim racing nut this wheel is simply to much & almost out of a normal person's price range.
The T-GT is much cheaper and it's made just for Gran Turismo and it works absolutely great.
The only complaint I have about the T-GT is the stock pedals but at least it comes with pedals. To get the most out of your T-GT don't even bother to unpack the pedals it comes with and just go buy the T3PA-PRO set for under $200 and you will have yourself one awesome setup for GTSPORT.
Setting up my T3PA-PRO pedal set GT style was a game changer for me.
Not to mention you can buy all this new for under $800 and that's well below the $2000

I would really like to try the CSL Elite to see if it's worth that kind of price or not.
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On the official site https://www.fanatec.com/us the price of wheel without pedals is $500, with pedals is $579.95
 
breeminator
You can even get the Podium direct drive wheel from Fanatec for a mere $1600, the amazon price for the CSL Elite is just hoping to take advantage of people who assume the price will be good because it's on amazon.

https://www.fanatec.com/us-en/racin...net&utm_campaign=General+Links&a_aid=gtplanet
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Well that's just horrible of some people. I did a Google search and that Amazon link was the first one to come up.

super_gt
On the official site https://www.fanatec.com/us the price of wheel without pedals is $500, with pedals is $579.95
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That's much more reasonable and exactly the price range I was expecting to see when I looked it up. 👍
 
I got the CSL Elite with the Loadcell kit for 755,61€ from their official website. Mounted everything on the GT Omega ART cockpit.
The loadcell took me some time to get used to it, but the wheel is phenomenal. With all the settings stock (5-5 in game and all wheel settings stock), the wheel behaves really wheel. You can feel the understeer very well and thanks to the motor smoothness, all corrections are easy and precise. Its veeeery quiet, the fan does a great job while being silent and no other sounds apart “understeer” or gear changing can be heard.
The pedals dont feel that well in GT Sport, while i got the most out of them in Project Cars 2 (throttle input isnt linear in GT). And if you wanna break, you really need to floor the brake. Definitely get yourselves a wheel stand at least, but i would reccomend a cockpit like the one i got from GT Omega, which is best buy IMO.
I’ve had the opportunity to try out all these wheels apart from the fanatec. I went in blind (i watched all possible reviews) and didnt regret at all.
Great build, great outputs, great product.
Definitely reccomend
 
These are huge swings in prices all depending on what site you look at.
Since I'm not familiar with the CSL Elite do they make different or upgraded components for this wheel that could be included and would make a big difference in price?

For example do they make a base with belt drive and one with direct drive that could explain the price differences?
 
MordFustang88
Wow...these are some extreme prices...
For the price you get the CSL Elite, we get the Podium F1 DD.
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Brasil import duty and taxes are very high. I have to make a lot of pizzas to buy something like this :lol:. Fortunately LOGITECH Brasil is sponsoring me and have sent me a brand new G29 when my wheel broke a year ago.
I'm already saving all the money i can for the PS5 and VR ... perhaps in mid 2020 it seems.:cheers:
 
superwally
T-GT here. While it's not perfect, I am apparently happier with it than others, the wheel at least. At the initial price point the pedals are not adequate, no argument there.

What others describe as a 'joke' buzz or rumble effect for me is a nuanced feel enhancer and adds immersion. I like the way you can feel the engine rpm increase and drop with each shift. I also run low FFB settings (1-2, my shoulders are destroyed), maybe it just works better at these levels. I think PD has really screwed up the FFB range of adjustment in GTS, going from strength 1 to 3 is a huge change, but as you go higher it's not linear and I don't feel much change at the top of the range.

I need far more settings lower in the range and think the T-GT performance really suffers at the higher FF settings that a lot of people apparently favor.
I also think every single car in the game has a sweet spot of FFB strength AND sensitivity that makes this wheel come alive, revealing depth and detail lost at other settings. If you have left your sensitivity alone while changing FFB strength, or never change it from car to car, I suggest giving it a go.

The pedals that came with my T-GT were brutally bad-so bad I hope it was just an early build or preproduction unit. The gear interface between the pedals and potentiometers was so loose they barely touched, and the delay between moving the pedal and the response in game made them impossible to use. I ended up shimming the pots tight to the pedals...still not happy, when I lift from full throttle or brake there is still a slight delay.

I picked up a T500RS pedal set on ebay with a Ricmotech Load Cell installed. As others mentioned, it won't hold calibration. I thought I just got screwed on ebay, but apparently this is a thing. I can't go 2 laps before the force required is so great it's just not worth the effort, my chair isn't bolted down and I just start sliding away, or I have to pull so hard on the wheel for support it's hard to turn smoothly. Maybe I just need more practice.
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I've had a very similar experience to yours, right down to using low FFB settings due to destroyed shoulders, and I totally agree, the feel is much better that way.

Regarding your calibration experience, it's not just a load cell issue, it's also an issue for people using brake mods, just not to the same extent. @Leggacy came up with this brilliant idea to stop his brake mods from splitting and it had the added advantage of being a hard stop. No more issue 👍. I just wish we could do something like this for our load cells, or PD would give us proper in game calibration :indiff:.

16D4D3B1-3528-44C2-BE68-09B9D869095E.jpg
 
That yellow cone still split and didn’t last a year. I think it’s due to the material it’s made from, it’s a little too ridged and eventually cracks. I’m now using a rubber vibration damper cone that i bought on eBay for a about £2.50. It’s made from a more flexible material, it’s not quite as hard but it flexes back more quickly. I still use the hard stop
21B2EAA8-CA42-47BF-BD31-508AC5DFE3A9.jpeg

Here’s the new rubber cone compared with the hard red one from JBB. It’s longer so I had to set the plate further back.
 
FPV MIC
I've had a very similar experience to yours, right down to using low FFB settings due to destroyed shoulders, and I totally agree, the feel is much better that way.

Regarding your calibration experience, it's not just a load cell issue, it's also an issue for people using brake mods, just not to the same extent. @Leggacy came up with this brilliant idea to stop his brake mods from splitting and it had the added advantage of being a hard stop. No more issue 👍. I just wish we could do something like this for our load cells, or PD would give us proper in game calibration :indiff:.

View attachment 852870
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Interesting! Maybe this is why I can't run 2 laps in a row and hit the same brake and turn-in points. No wonder I hated the rubber stopper so much. I ended up cutting almost all the rubber away, leaving just a nub so there was no metal to metal contact and there is very, very little 'squish' at the end of pedal travel. I have the bolt extended almost all the way also to shorten travel as much as possible.

Sadly, no matter what I do, both the throttle and brake pots do not react instantly when coming back from fully depressed. Modulation in that very, very fine region near full throttle PD has given us to work with is frustrating at best.

This thread has been great, and now I know the load cell I got off ebay is probably not junk, maybe with more practice or a different setup I can make it work.
 
I picked up the G29 on sale for $200 with the shifter separately for $60.
It is an entry wheel only, not meant for some serious lap times.
It does the jobs, but it is very limited regarding force feedback.
And the fact that it uses motors instead of belts, means that you are going to be doing the correcting very often.

It's a decent wheel and I only bought it because it was so late in the PS4's life.
With PS5, I will be investing in a really good wheel, possilby from Fanatec.
 
Petroperu
It is an entry wheel only, not meant for some serious lap times.
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False. While I agree it is an entry level wheel, there are a lot of very fast drivers that use it. I believe @Mistah_MCA uses a G29 and if you've ever seen his track guides, you would have to agree he puts up some serious lap times. I had one for a year and a half and was happy with it before it started acting up. They really did nerf the FF on the Logitech compared to previous GT's. The G29 uses gears instead of belts which results in a more clunky feel. That's why I upgraded to the CSL. While it was a lot more money, I definitely feel it was worth it for the overall better immersion you get. But for someone not looking to spend that much, I think you can be just as fast with the G29 and still enjoy the game.
 
Chevy Heavy
False. While I agree it is an entry level wheel, there are a lot of very fast drivers that use it. I believe @Mistah_MCA uses a G29 and if you've ever seen his track guides, you would have to agree he puts up some serious lap times. I had one for a year and a half and was happy with it before it started acting up. They really did nerf the FF on the Logitech compared to previous GT's. The G29 uses gears instead of belts which results in a more clunky feel. That's why I upgraded to the CSL. While it was a lot more money, I definitely feel it was worth it for the overall better immersion you get. But for someone not looking to spend that much, I think you can be just as fast with the G29 and still enjoy the game.
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I have been summoned!

The G29 is my "first" racing wheel, and it has helped me get faster on GT Sport. My times are usually 1 second behind the top dogs now, so you can definitely be competitive with this wheel, both in Time Trial and in actual races.

I think that it's a great starter wheel, and you can still be competitive with it.

I won't be going into the nitty gritty about the wheel, since I just wanted something to start with for a "low" price. I do look forward to upgrading my setup one day, but in the meantime, I'll make sure I get the most out of the G29. :]
 
Chevy Heavy
False. While I agree it is an entry level wheel, there are a lot of very fast drivers that use it. I believe @Mistah_MCA uses a G29 and if you've ever seen his track guides, you would have to agree he puts up some serious lap times. I had one for a year and a half and was happy with it before it started acting up. They really did nerf the FF on the Logitech compared to previous GT's. The G29 uses gears instead of belts which results in a more clunky feel. That's why I upgraded to the CSL. While it was a lot more money, I definitely feel it was worth it for the overall better immersion you get. But for someone not looking to spend that much, I think you can be just as fast with the G29 and still enjoy the game.
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Like you said, the problem I had with the G29 from the moment I tested it was the obscene lack of force feedback.
Didn't make sense to have a 15 year old wheel like the DFP had better FF than a wheel from 2017.
And for me, that's an off deal.
This means, I have to be second guessing braking points and in tracks like Brands Hatch which track feeling is a must, especially for that downhill first turn.
 
The FFB on the G29 is not as good as the other wheels in GTS but you can still run top times with it. It feels much better in other racing games though, which makes me wonder if it’s Logitech’s problem or PD’s.
 

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