CSL update - blue mode
- Thread starter oldphart
- 429 comments
- 55,848 views
- 439
- South-West
- Deux_Milles
Hi,
I gave the CSL a short test after the update. Light ffb, random rattles, just unusable at this point.
D.
I gave the CSL a short test after the update. Light ffb, random rattles, just unusable at this point.
D.
- 327
So it's actually worse than before?
Does the wheel still wobble on the straights?
Does the wheel still wobble on the straights?
- 210
- Earth
- BadFlounder
- BadFlounder
The wheel is not “unusable”, at least with my settings. YMMV, of course. Don’t get me wrong. It’s incredibly stupid that PD can’t get basic things right like using the rev lights. Why even release support if this feature is not ready? You’ve waited this long, just wait a bit longer and get it right. Also, I can’t imagine this is that difficult to implement. It just requires PD to actually care, and make an effort. It is just moronic, but hardly surprising from PD, sadly.
No, the wheel no longer wobbles on the straights. That is probably the best thing about the update for this wheel. I wouldn’t say it’s worse than before, but support is definitely still not where it needs to be.
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- 798
- Vancouver
- Nando_deBem
The random rattles are not random.
That’s when you turn too much and you start sliding your front wheels sideways. It’s what I feel when karting too, so I think it’s about right. I just think it’s too strong compared to the rest of the effects. I don’t know how to reduce it.
Here some post from a member in the Fanatec forum:
After my first test with the new update (with old settings) in general I experienced that the wheel was too light and FFB effects for road feel are nearly gone. Also I didn't found the right point anymore just before real wheelspin starts. No feeling at all when going fast over a hill and the car gets light with reduced wheel grip (eg. Quiddelbacher Höhe at Nordschleife). At the same time I got chattering and noise when going over some of the curbs in tight corners.
So I increased the in-game settings first and made some smaller changes in-wheel but I'm still working on it.
Test Track and car: Nordschleife with Porsche 911 RSR (GT3)
In game settings:
Controller sensitivity: 7 (It's only relevant for DS4 Controllers if I'm not wrong)
FFB max torque: 3 (increased from 2)
FFB sensitivity: 4 (increased from 2)
In wheel settings:
SEN: 054 (depends on the car, for GT3 Cars I use 054)
FF: 100
SHO: 100
ABS: 100
DRI: -02 (reduced from -03)
FOR: 100
SPR: 100
DPR: 100
BRF: 040 (using Clubsport Pedals V3)
FEI: 090 (reduced from 100)
The road feel is now a bit better and wheelspin can be controlled in a good manner. However I'm still not there where I want to be with the wheel. Especially when going over hills the loosing wheel grip is not detectable with my current settings.
Other member reduced FEI from 100 to 50 to reduce the rumbling issue (but still not satisfied).
Hope I will find time to test later...
After my first test with the new update (with old settings) in general I experienced that the wheel was too light and FFB effects for road feel are nearly gone. Also I didn't found the right point anymore just before real wheelspin starts. No feeling at all when going fast over a hill and the car gets light with reduced wheel grip (eg. Quiddelbacher Höhe at Nordschleife). At the same time I got chattering and noise when going over some of the curbs in tight corners.
So I increased the in-game settings first and made some smaller changes in-wheel but I'm still working on it.
Test Track and car: Nordschleife with Porsche 911 RSR (GT3)
In game settings:
Controller sensitivity: 7 (It's only relevant for DS4 Controllers if I'm not wrong)
FFB max torque: 3 (increased from 2)
FFB sensitivity: 4 (increased from 2)
In wheel settings:
SEN: 054 (depends on the car, for GT3 Cars I use 054)
FF: 100
SHO: 100
ABS: 100
DRI: -02 (reduced from -03)
FOR: 100
SPR: 100
DPR: 100
BRF: 040 (using Clubsport Pedals V3)
FEI: 090 (reduced from 100)
The road feel is now a bit better and wheelspin can be controlled in a good manner. However I'm still not there where I want to be with the wheel. Especially when going over hills the loosing wheel grip is not detectable with my current settings.
Other member reduced FEI from 100 to 50 to reduce the rumbling issue (but still not satisfied).
Hope I will find time to test later...
- 3,449
- Theresa, Wisconsin
Yesterday and everyday before that we were piggy backing (or at least I was) on the G29 wheel, I was not aware of any wheel updates until I entered a race this morning, it was practically un-drivable. I am getting tank slappers at Nurb GP after the fast S turn, steering effort was incredibly high, high enough it was ripping the wheel from my grip, etc. Before I never felt rumble strips, bumps on track, front tires skidding, etc. now that is all I can feel. Does anyone know how I can get it to feel like it was yesterday then adjust it from there? The only wheel adjustments that seem to make much difference to the "feel" of the car is FF (force feedback) and SEN (degrees of wheel rotation). I downloaded the most current software a month ago when I bought the wheel. Hope I dont have to get the T-GT now.
- 3,449
- Theresa, Wisconsin
I didn´t have time to test yet, just quoted a post from Fanatec forum.
Here some Infos from Fanatec regarding tuning parameter:
Tuning parameters on the wheel:
FEI Force Effects Intensity
Always start at 100% and if the effects are too sharp or there is a strong and noisy rattle which you do not like then turn it down to a lower value.
FF Force Feedback
Some games like GTS do not have the option to adjust overall force feedback strength. Therefore you can reduce the strength in wheel. Otherwise I would always suggest to keep this value at 100 and adjust the ff strength in game.
SPR Spring
Very few games use spring effects instead of force effects. This value controls the signal coming from the game. Keep it at 100 unless you notice dull force feedback because there is a permanent spring over all other force effects.
DPR Damper
This option controls only the damper effect signals coming from the game. It really makes sense to keep it at 100 unless an effect really annoys you. Usually a damper makes sense for example when the car is standing and you try to turn the wheel.
DRI Drift
The default is -5 but all values from -5 to 0 will add a damper over all other effects. A natural damper will avoid shaking on straights and also make the car feel more realistic but you might want to choose a higher value if you prefer a faster response from the wheel. Values above 0 will use motor power to artificially accelerate the steering wheel. Please note that this can cause the wheel to shake heavily if you release it. Those higher values are recommended for heavy steering wheels or for drifting in games.
Here some Infos from Fanatec regarding tuning parameter:
Tuning parameters on the wheel:
FEI Force Effects Intensity
Always start at 100% and if the effects are too sharp or there is a strong and noisy rattle which you do not like then turn it down to a lower value.
FF Force Feedback
Some games like GTS do not have the option to adjust overall force feedback strength. Therefore you can reduce the strength in wheel. Otherwise I would always suggest to keep this value at 100 and adjust the ff strength in game.
SPR Spring
Very few games use spring effects instead of force effects. This value controls the signal coming from the game. Keep it at 100 unless you notice dull force feedback because there is a permanent spring over all other force effects.
DPR Damper
This option controls only the damper effect signals coming from the game. It really makes sense to keep it at 100 unless an effect really annoys you. Usually a damper makes sense for example when the car is standing and you try to turn the wheel.
DRI Drift
The default is -5 but all values from -5 to 0 will add a damper over all other effects. A natural damper will avoid shaking on straights and also make the car feel more realistic but you might want to choose a higher value if you prefer a faster response from the wheel. Values above 0 will use motor power to artificially accelerate the steering wheel. Please note that this can cause the wheel to shake heavily if you release it. Those higher values are recommended for heavy steering wheels or for drifting in games.
- 3,449
- Theresa, Wisconsin
I think thats where I ended up on mine with minimal time tuning this morning. If I have it at 100 or 10 it will rip the wheel from my grip. I am trying to get my wheel similar to what it felt like yesterday and the 5 weeks before that.
Did you guys all get added feeling to your Fanatecs like rumble strips, bumps in track, wheel shake from lock up, etc????? I never had any of that before, its like a completely different wheel, so far i do not like it.
- 3,449
- Theresa, Wisconsin
I didn't even notice the lights weren't working. I was just ecstatic the wheel was working and now native in the game.I found out by reading it here!
You had a Fanatec but were not using it? I think everyone using Fanatec was piggybacking the Logitech wheel option, or at least thats what I was doing.
user3392345
(Banned)
- 702
- Antarctica
- 29
- Italy
I actually feel MUCH better with my CSL elite after this update, I drive in a way that its borderline understeer goin into corners, and the hard shaking from losing traction doesnt bother me because I try my best to not let it go that far anyways.
Right at the limit of understeer i do feel the tires losing traction, its a very slight rumble through the wheel, right before the earthquake begins, it feels really good to me.
Another very positive aspect that I noticed is much easier to countersteer after the rear tires lose traction and put the car back in line.
Yes there could be improvements (especially the fricken throttle llinearity) and some bump and curb feedback but its waaaaaaaay better than the purple mode!
Right at the limit of understeer i do feel the tires losing traction, its a very slight rumble through the wheel, right before the earthquake begins, it feels really good to me.
Another very positive aspect that I noticed is much easier to countersteer after the rear tires lose traction and put the car back in line.
Yes there could be improvements (especially the fricken throttle llinearity) and some bump and curb feedback but its waaaaaaaay better than the purple mode!
- 562
- Aliso Viejo, CA
- Renown787B
You can turn up the Force Feedback Max. Torque and Force Feedback Sensitivity to 8. This will reduce that shaking in the corners you're referring to. It will still do it, but you won't feel it until you really start to slide your car around. That's what I have observed after playing with these settings.
Totally agree. There is absolutely no "Road Feel" with the new Fanatec native support. The cars drive like they hover over the track. Otherwise the FFB and general feel of the wheel seems really nice.
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- 1,143
- Vienna
- MINKIHL
nice that you like it
I have to say, if i am comparing right now the TgT vs the Fanatec elite...its like 1000:1....you feel everything on the tgt..and nothing during corner on the fanatec... good try pd..but thats not enough
- 29
- Italy
Oh yeah another thing, my clutch doesnt work, before the update it did put the car in neutral when the pedal was pressed!
- 4,817
- Bulgaria
- 22
- Germany
- Gruzzlebeard1
I tested now the whole day. If you turn FF Max torque to 8-10 the wheel starts definitely with clipping. The wheel is oversaturated with (very strong) signals and cannot be transferred correctly anymore. Therefore the chattering is reduced and less dominant. All other smaller and fine signals are already overshadowed and gone too due to the oversaturation. This is a worst case scenario
At the same time due to the heavy wheel at 9 also curb signals are clipping and you cannot feel bumps anymore. You can try it at Brands Hatch - if you go through the fast corners there are absolutely no signals anymore coming to the wheel when you turn the wheel. If you reduce the wheel angle lock or go straight you can feel how the signals on the curbs are coming back suddenly. You can find some good videos in YouTube which are explaining this effects especially in quick curves E.g. in Project cars you can monitor and check visually on your HUD when clipping starts.
If you use lower max torque between 4 and ca. 6 (?) and Sensitivity around 8 you can get the full range of low, medium and strong signals transmitted to the wheel. Unfortunately the chattering is much too accentuated and feels totally artificial - in my eyes this is more a bug then a feature. Regarding road and tire feel I'm unfortunately a bit disappointed at the moment. But still I'm testing.
Last but not least I'm not yet convinced about the FEI feature. I guess this is a artificial tool which changes the original signals from the game. I use it just in small steps. But you can feel how this tool is using strong signal peaks lower them and recalculate the peaks to lower but longer curves - at the end the wheel is just wobbling if you turn it down too much.
Actually I wrote the post in the Fanatec Forum OGsoda is referring to.
Heavy vs. light wheel depends on personal preferences of course. Many years I liked a heavy wheel because at the end it feels also a bit more realistic. But the limit range between strong and a wheel which is dull is very small.
However with a lighter one you're first of all quicker. But if you have a good wheel and game where FFB is lively and well implemented you don't need necessarily high settings to get fun. If you get used to a light but agile wheel you will discover that not the strong but the subtile signals are important to improve your driving. Then you don't want to change anymore.
At the moment my settings are at 4 or 5 Max Torque and Sensitivity at 8 depending on car and track. But I need to fiddle still a bit around with in-wheel improvements
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- 3,449
- Theresa, Wisconsin
You were using your Fanatec in purple mode??? I just got mine about 6 weeks ago, installed latest Fanatec software and was using mine in Blue mode piggybacking on the Logitech settings. Worked OK, now its crap since the update, forces way too strong.
Since Thurday my Fanatec feels like crap, all forces on wheel way too strong, and wheel hammers madly. I am using it in blue mode, it appears to be the only mode it works in, if I press the mode button it stops working and I have to restart game and power wheel down and back up, is this normal??
What I have found is if you into controller settings in the game the sensitivity 1-8 (I think) adjustment has the biggest effect on the wheel, not sure if you guys found the same. If I put sensitivity up to 7 with wheel settings, FF, SHK, DMPR, SPR, etc at 100 you can barely move the wheel and wheel will rebound and steer car off course on its own, there aint no hanging onto it. Does anyone know if its possible to return to what we had on Wednesday before update??? Thank you, Bob
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Bevor 1.15 you had to use purple mode (G29 simulation) to get some FFB. Now we may use blue mode with some restrictions like Gruzzlebeard mentioned. But based on PD (1.15 update details) implementation is not finished yet. Sad enough, but some hope for the future.
I don't know about what others are saying, but before and after patch is a big difference once you get you're settings correct. I use a head set so the slight clunking I get in understeer conditions isn't noticed. Thats what the fei setting is for, basically the game is putting out a square wave signal and fei is taking the edge off it and making an arc so the forces aren't as sharp. I found 50-60 to be perfect. Important note! No spring I put that at 10-20 so the wheel only centers itself in menus, this is key to getting better feel from the wheel if you have spr at 100 your masking over all the nice details. My dri is set to -2 and everything else 100. In game settings I'm still messing with, but 6-8 for sensitivity feels good and feed back force or wheel feel in around 4-6. You can really feel all the undulations and bumps in the road surfaces and definitely feel what the car is doing much better then ever. Things like weight transitions and four wheel slides during hot entrances are very noticeable and unlike before I can Save a very hairy entrance or exit. It's no Assetto corsa but I actually want to start playing the stupid game now.
Note cars with lots of downforce give you less road feel because you're actually gripping the road and give you a very satisfying glued down feeling and are super responsive feeling now.
Also if your taking a corner and your wheel instantly starts clattering and rumbling that's understeer and If it happens every corner and is making the game unplayable it just might be that you've been driving way to hot in corners and Turing way to much and might need to adjust your play or driving style.
Note cars with lots of downforce give you less road feel because you're actually gripping the road and give you a very satisfying glued down feeling and are super responsive feeling now.
Also if your taking a corner and your wheel instantly starts clattering and rumbling that's understeer and If it happens every corner and is making the game unplayable it just might be that you've been driving way to hot in corners and Turing way to much and might need to adjust your play or driving style.
- 798
- Vancouver
- Nando_deBem
