Daily Driver time, Need opinions please

[nismo4life]

Nismo - How much are you paying for insurance on your Talon??? I read 220.
Mine (92 TSi) is only $150!! That's in Canadian dollars, and I'm even younger than you (18).

Have you thought about *gasp* a Miata?

My own insurance with no driving history, the talon is 180 a month, the Altima (gf's) is like another 40, my bad. And thats USD.

 

[1X83Z]

I do like the idea of the M3, just need to see how faulty they are, and how much fun

Here's the thing about the E36 though: the going rate on them is ~$13k. With your $20k, you could easily buy the newest, lowest-mileage E36 on the forecourt, and you'd never have an issue - or you could buy an average one and use the money you saved to both mod it and fix it if things went wrong. The key is giving yourself a bit of wiggle room, and this situation does just that.

 

[nismo4life]

E36 M3 advice I wrote a while back.

The whole thread.


M

Awesome post.

 

[Takumi Fujiwara]

One more thing to mention, a car that I always suggest, but is always overlooked.

04+ Legacy GT. They perform essentially as well as the WRX (bit faster, even), but have more space, are less "extreme" looking, so less cop/ricer attention, and a used one is much more likely to have been owned someone who isn't a "racer".

 

[niky]

I'd say if you want a car that handles pretty well, with decent acceleration for daily use, the MSP or RSX fit the bill. The RSX will likely be easier to maintain, though.

Issues?

The RSX gearbox is supposedly quite tight. Not a problem per se, but there are instances of ham-handed teenagers demolishing the gearbox by missing the right gate.

The MSP has issues if you drive it on track, mostly due to the stock LSD (cured by welding? You'll have to check on the msprotege boards) and oil starvation (easily cured by adding an extra quart over the recommended amount in the manual). But if you use it as a commuter car and occassional canyon carver, nothing untoward should happen. Nice little car, decent room, comfortable seats, nice handling, a little noisy and tinny feeling, though. Problem is, it's rare.

A Sentra Spec V? Avoid 03's unless the owner has proof that his cat was replaced under the recall. Also check the related thread on the Nissan QR25DE recall. Otherwise, nice car.

The Ralliart is cool, but not that exciting, especially compared to what else is on the list. Definitely should last long. Big, unstressed engine, relatively old and simple chassis.

I just can't see using an old RX7, 300zx or 3000GT as a daily driver... sorry... I don't like visiting the garage that often... Especially if you're on a budget.

Old Maxima? Fun in a straight line, nice suspension, cult car, actually, amongst Nissan-fans... and great if you can find a 3.0 V6 in manual. But not that nimble as stock.

As for the Audis, I'll reserve judgement... I've heard stories, but I have no first or secondhand experiences regarding the maintenance and reliability of such. An old S4 sounds nice, though... good engines, easy to chip.

An old M3? Possibly high parts cost, but the smiles per miles might be worth it. I think M5Power is on the money.

If you're a student, though, stick to something simple. Like Swift said, something that won't break if you flog it every once in a while, and that won't cost an arm and leg in parts.

 

[nismo4life]

One more thing to mention, a car that I always suggest, but is always overlooked.

04+ Legacy GT. They perform essentially as well as the WRX (bit faster, even), but have more space, are less "extreme" looking, so less cop/ricer attention, and a used one is much more likely to have been owned someone who isn't a "racer".

My buddy has one, I guess it comes with a Detuned EJ25?

Plus they won't be under 20k.


Also new guideline, My mom and dad are helping me by giving me $ for a downpayment, and I will pay the monthly payments and pay them back later, and my mom said no cars Over 70k because that is too high of miles....My talon has 133k on the body lol.

 

[nismo4life]

I'd say if you want a car that handles pretty well, with decent acceleration for daily use, the MSP or RSX fit the bill. The RSX will likely be easier to maintain, though.

Issues?

The RSX gearbox is supposedly quite tight. Not a problem per se, but there are instances of ham-handed teenagers demolishing the gearbox by missing the right gate.

The MSP has issues if you drive it on track, mostly due to the stock LSD (cured by welding? You'll have to check on the msprotege boards) and oil starvation (easily cured by adding an extra quart over the recommended amount in the manual). But if you use it as a commuter car and occassional canyon carver, nothing untoward should happen. Nice little car, decent room, comfortable seats, nice handling, a little noisy and tinny feeling, though. Problem is, it's rare.

A Sentra Spec V? Avoid 03's unless the owner has proof that his cat was replaced under the recall. Also check the related thread on the Nissan QR25DE recall. Otherwise, nice car.

The Ralliart is cool, but not that exciting, especially compared to what else is on the list. Definitely should last long. Big, unstressed engine, relatively old and simple chassis.

I just can't see using an old RX7, 300zx or 3000GT as a daily driver... sorry... I don't like visiting the garage that often... Especially if you're on a budget.

Old Maxima? Fun in a straight line, nice suspension, cult car, actually, amongst Nissan-fans... and great if you can find a 3.0 V6 in manual. But not that nimble as stock.

As for the Audis, I'll reserve judgement... I've heard stories, but I have no first or secondhand experiences regarding the maintenance and reliability of such. An old S4 sounds nice, though... good engines, easy to chip.

An old M3? Possibly high parts cost, but the smiles per miles might be worth it. I think M5Power is on the money.

If you're a student, though, stick to something simple. Like Swift said, something that won't break if you flog it every once in a while, and that won't cost an arm and leg in parts.

Another awesome post, thanks for your reply. Let me just follow up.


RSX- Yeah being a newer driver I might misshift something with a tight box, but hey thats what the Certified 10yr/100k pre owned warranty is for

MSP- Holy chit mang!! I forgot about the lsd, I had read on the MSP boards that alot of them start leaking? And compared to the rest I think it has the most amount of toys aside the RSX-S (450w Kenwood sound system, LSD, turbo, etc.)

Japanese muscle cars - I've seen a VR4 that hit the 400k mark on the original engine (no rebuild) and original transmission, so anything is possible lol. Now an RX-7 for winter...not the best idea. One car I might consider is a 350Z. Its not too fast but it is an exceptional track car and autocrosser from what I've seen and heard.

Audi's- Suppose to have amazing handling, and has very many luxuries the others.

M3- Yeah this is probably going to be one of the final cars I'm going to have to pick from. I want to drive one badly and while I know its a hair quicker then the Z, I want to see which will handle better, and I will like the feel of.

Oh and the Ralliart, thats only an option cuz my brother is selling his 04 with 31k on it for 12 grand, and I could keep the 10yr 100k warranty...but for 4 or 5k more I could get an RSX-S with the same pre owned cert. warranty hehe.

 

[nismo4life]

Here's the thing about the E36 though: the going rate on them is ~$13k. With your $20k, you could easily buy the newest, lowest-mileage E36 on the forecourt, and you'd never have an issue - or you could buy an average one and use the money you saved to both mod it and fix it if things went wrong. The key is giving yourself a bit of wiggle room, and this situation does just that.

I saw your sig and just had to comment, my original very first idea was to get an 850 Turbo (my friend has a hot violet one) and swap a 5spd into it from the 850 and get the uk ecu, but it seems like way too much work lol. But hey its a tank so it will never die lol. Also another great post, thanks for your input

 

[1X83Z]

I saw your sig and just had to comment, my original very first idea was to get an 850 Turbo (my friend has a hot violet one) and swap a 5spd into it from the 850 and get the uk ecu, but it seems like way too much work lol. But hey its a tank so it will never die lol. Also another great post, thanks for your input

I'm glad you've been dissuaded. The 850 Turbo is the single least reliable vehicle ever manufactured. I've had issue after issue, and I'm not alone - it's been absolute hell to own. And just when I was saving money for a new car, the 850's radiator gets punctured (at 1mph on a parking curb) meaning $800 down the drain for a new one before I sell it. I'll officially never, ever, under any circumstances ever, purchase another Volvo again. Pathetic, unreliable trash, and I'm glad I'm getting out after just two years.

 

[Slicks]

Well then, you probably shouldn't have driven into the curb, now should you?
I fail to see how you driving into a curb is the cars fault, the manufacturers fault, or anyone's fault but your own.

 

[RobcioPL]

02-04 Nissan Altima 3.5 SE 5speed, should be in the price range, lots of room, and great accelaration.
Cons: Torque Steer, No traction in snow, interior may be "cheap", 6th gear would be nice.

02-05 Subaru WRX 5 speed, its nice, alot smaller then the altima, great 4wd platform, great car to mod.
Cons: Small, most likley modded or beat on, weak tranny.

02-03 Nissan Maxima 3.5 SE 6 Speed, great price, a bit smaller then the altima, easier to drive, great accerelaration. Has a 6th gear to keep noise level down, better fuel economy. Interior quality is great. If you can get one with HLSD to keep torque steer down.
Cons: Torque Steer, No traction in snow, notchy tranny.

03-05 350z 6 speed, great car, pretty fast, great aftermarket.
Cons: Cheap interior, notchy shifter, road noise, no rear seat.

Hope i helped, dont feel writing much more, but if you have questions, feel free to ask.

 

[1X83Z]

Well then, you probably shouldn't have driven into the curb, now should you?
I fail to see how you driving into a curb is the cars fault, the manufacturers fault, or anyone's fault but your own.

Well there are two basic schools of thought here: one, it was was a parking curb, the sort where you're supposed to drive up until you hit your tires on to let you know you aren't sticking out. My tires hadn't even hit yet and yet it ripped open the radiator. The other problem I have is that if the radiator can be punctured from simply going that slowly and over something that SUVs and other sedans can clear without issue, then the radiator was obviously made with the cheapest Swedish **** on Earth (in fact, the bottom of the radiator is PLASTIC).

In the end, though, I have a right to be upset: this is my THIRD radiator in one year, the first two failing due to simply being trashy, not even hitting stuff in the road. I imagine that under the right circumstances, a rock could puncture the vehicle's radiator.

Horrible, horrible, horrible.

I am willing to accept partial blame, but I think most of the blame lies with the idiotic Swedes (in Europe curbs are much lower, too).

 

[nismo4life]

Well there are two basic schools of thought here: one, it was was a parking curb, the sort where you're supposed to drive up until you hit your tires on to let you know you aren't sticking out. My tires hadn't even hit yet and yet it ripped open the radiator. The other problem I have is that if the radiator can be punctured from simply going that slowly and over something that SUVs and other sedans can clear without issue, then the radiator was obviously made with the cheapest Swedish **** on Earth (in fact, the bottom of the radiator is PLASTIC).

In the end, though, I have a right to be upset: this is my THIRD radiator in one year, the first two failing due to simply being trashy, not even hitting stuff in the road. I imagine that under the right circumstances, a rock could puncture the vehicle's radiator.

Horrible, horrible, horrible.

I am willing to accept partial blame, but I think most of the blame lies with the idiotic Swedes (in Europe curbs are much lower, too).

My friends Turbo 850 has 225k on the clock and its still goin....lol.

 

[nismo4life]

.

03-05 350z 6 speed, great car, pretty fast, great aftermarket.
Cons: Cheap interior, notchy shifter, road noise, no rear seat.

Hope i helped, dont feel writing much more, but if you have questions, feel free to ask.

^-----Bad for snow no?

 

[1X83Z]

My friends Turbo 850 has 225k on the clock and its still goin....lol.

That doesn't surprise me - my transmission and the engine were actually pretty reliable - it was the other stuff, like various hoses and parts connected to the block itself. Maintained right for its whole life, they can probably go for a while. I know four other guys with 850 Turbos, all of which bailed out sooner than I due to similar problems. I'd never recommend another.

 

[Perfect Balance]

My cousin got a '99 3000GT with 42k miles for only 4xxx dollars, and spents another 4k fixing it. So basically he got a 1999 3kGT, last year they were made, with only 42k miles, all for under 10,000 bucks.

If I was you I would go for a rx-7 TT. On ebay they are only around 15,000 dollars for one in very good condition.

 

[1X83Z]

My cousin got a '99 3000GT with 42k miles for only 4xxx dollars, and spents another 4k fixing it. So basically he got a 1999 3kGT, last year they were made, with only 42k miles, all for under 10,000 bucks.

Presumably this was one of the 160hp base models...

 

[Slicks]

Well there are two basic schools of thought here: one, it was was a parking curb, the sort where you're supposed to drive up until you hit your tires on to let you know you aren't sticking out. My tires hadn't even hit yet and yet it ripped open the radiator. The other problem I have is that if the radiator can be punctured from simply going that slowly and over something that SUVs and other sedans can clear without issue, then the radiator was obviously made with the cheapest Swedish **** on Earth (in fact, the bottom of the radiator is PLASTIC).

In the end, though, I have a right to be upset: this is my THIRD radiator in one year, the first two failing due to simply being trashy, not even hitting stuff in the road. I imagine that under the right circumstances, a rock could puncture the vehicle's radiator.

Horrible, horrible, horrible.

I am willing to accept partial blame, but I think most of the blame lies with the idiotic Swedes (in Europe curbs are much lower, too).

Well, you still did hit the curb (Which, from my experience, you get close to but don't hit). Common sense would dictate that you knew your car wouldn't clear most parking curbs.
That said, after you recognised that the original was crap, why didn't you get an aftermarket one? It would have saved you two radiators.

 

[niky]

The thing about curbs is? I hit parking curbs all the time, in all sorts of cars... like M5Power says, you tend to do that because you're supposed to rest your wheels on it.

I've never blown a radiator on one of those... now who's the oddball who decided to design that car in that particular manner?

I've only seen a few Volvo 850's here... and only one or two Turbos. Nice cars, and all the owners bitch about parts and repairs.

 

[1X83Z]

Well, you still did hit the curb (Which, from my experience, you get close to but don't hit). Common sense would dictate that you knew your car wouldn't clear most parking curbs.

Actually the 850 rides quite high, particularly compared to our family's other sedan, my dad's 1998 Toyota Camry, which we've scraped on every surface known to man (including every single time we've driven over the sidewalk on our way into the driveway) as it is the single lowest car ever manufactured with the exception of the Vector W8. Usually the 850 either does clear the curb, or the curb is high enough to bump the front license plate, which sits about four inches in front of the lower bumper. This curb was just at the perfect height to clear the plate but still be high enough to damage the bumper.

That said, after you recognised that the original was crap, why didn't you get an aftermarket one? It would have saved you two radiators.

An aftermarket radiator?! Like, what, reinforced?! I'm not sure that the aftermarket for radiators is particularly high for those vehicles (or any vehicles)!

now who's the oddball who decided to design that car in that particular manner?

See that's the thing - it's just poor engineering, more than anything. I mean whose bright idea was it to cover in PLASTIC something that a) rides directly under the car and b) can be easily accessed and damaged? Hint to everyone: if you're ever being followed by someone in an 850, just take a quick swift kick under the car and you've probably disabled it.

It was one of these by the way:

 

[nismo4life]

My cousin got a '99 3000GT with 42k miles for only 4xxx dollars, and spents another 4k fixing it. So basically he got a 1999 3kGT, last year they were made, with only 42k miles, all for under 10,000 bucks.

If I was you I would go for a rx-7 TT. On ebay they are only around 15,000 dollars for one in very good condition.

Problem number one: Your cousin got a SL, not a VR4.

Problem number two: I live in Connecticut, that means I get about 3 feet of snow a year, Snow + lightweight RWD car=BAD.

 

[nismo4life]

An aftermarket radiator?! Like, what, reinforced?! I'm not sure that the aftermarket for radiators is particularly high for those vehicles (or any vehicles)!

Yeah man FORGED RADIATORS ALL THE WAY!!!! lol

 

[ExigeEvan]

Doug, why didn't you just get a mechanic to or someone else to fabricate something for you? I know it'll cost but abit of welded on metal plate isn't too much hassle.

 

[RobcioPL]

^-----Bad for snow no?

Pretty much, mainly because of the height. Not the best daily driver, but some people do it.

 

[1X83Z]

Problem number one: Your cousin got a SL, not a VR4.

Problem number two: I live in Connecticut, that means I get about 3 feet of snow a year, Snow + lightweight RWD car=BAD.

I don't even think he got an SL. Here's how 3000GTs broke down: From the beginning (1991) there was a 222-horsepower 3-liter naturally-aspirated V6, used in both the base model and the SL, and the 320-horsepower 3-liter twin turbo six used in the VR-4. The Stealth, however, used three engines: those two, plus a 160-horsepower Mitsubishi-built single cam version of the 3000GT's 3-liter V6. When the Stealth was cancelled following the 1996 model year, Mitsubishi figured "why not" and began using that 160hp V6 on the 3000GT Base, which they did from 1997 until the 3000GT itself was cancelled in 1999. So the cousin probably got the 160hp base model - not even the 222hp SL, which would be slightly respectable.

And before you ask, the 0-60 time on the 160hp 3000GT was around ten seconds, possibly 9.5. Who bought them? One group: posers.

Doug, why didn't you just get a mechanic to or someone else to fabricate something for you? I know it'll cost but abit of welded on metal plate isn't too much hassle.

Well I didn't know it was so weak until this last time. The first time it went, it was using the original radiator (100k miles) and began leaking, curiously, right after a trip to the dealer. They charged us practically nothing for the first one (because, let's not lie, they caused it). The second one began leaking after unknown circumstances and necessitated a tow. That didn't really send up any red flags either, because we assumed it had high-centered somehow (yes, without my noticing). However this last time proved how absurd the crap really is. If I were intent on keeping the car, I probably would look for some sort of reinforcement, but I'm not - in fact, the advert was placed in the newspaper today.

 

[Tornado]

What do you mean M5? All it needs is some NAWS and it woul blow the doors off of a...





























Model T. Maybe.

 

[1X83Z]

What do you mean M5? All it needs is some NAWS and it woul blow the doors off of a...

Model T. Maybe.

"Maybe" being the key word there. Back when I used to race my Volvo at the dragstrip, one night two guys showed up with two different Stealth RT Turbos, and neither beat a low 16. My Volvo runs high 15s. The cars weren't in perfect shape and the drivers didn't seem too experienced, but I guess the point is, I'm not entirely sold on the durability of these things.

 

[nismo4life]

I don't even think he got an SL. Here's how 3000GTs broke down: From the beginning (1991) there was a 222-horsepower 3-liter naturally-aspirated V6, used in both the base model and the SL, and the 320-horsepower 3-liter twin turbo six used in the VR-4. The Stealth, however, used three engines: those two, plus a 160-horsepower Mitsubishi-built single cam version of the 3000GT's 3-liter V6. When the Stealth was cancelled following the 1996 model year, Mitsubishi figured "why not" and began using that 160hp V6 on the 3000GT Base, which they did from 1997 until the 3000GT itself was cancelled in 1999. So the cousin probably got the 160hp base model - not even the 222hp SL, which would be slightly respectable.

And before you ask, the 0-60 time on the 160hp 3000GT was around ten seconds, possibly 9.5. Who bought them? One group: posers.


.

Keep in mind your talking to a dsm owner , I'm fairly farmiliar with the 3S's

 

[Perfect Balance]

Its a SL. Not that crappy Sohc thing, he wouldn't consider it if it was that slow. He tried getting a vr-4, but couldnt find one that didn't have lots of mileage.

 

[B_B_B]

Let me just break it down


I will never own a domestic. And if you want to argue about the GTO, technically its built by Holden

and chevy makes the engine trans and rear end that make it move the gto actually isnt a great car by any means just because they weigh well over 4k pounds and no need to diss american power late model ls1 powered f-bodys run low low 13's stock on street tires and you can pick up a low milege 02 for around 20k fully loaded and beat the snot out of those awd cars on the open road