"Daily" Race Discussion [Archive]

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On another note, I just had a wicked 1 on 1 F1 battle with a guy on Suzuka. Man, can you ever fly around a track in an F1 car on RSS tires, that was fun. we had an equally good race on Catalunya right before this one too. :D

I saw the black open-wheeler in the thumbnail and briefly mistook it for the Dallara SF19, then I remembered that's not coming until the 28th :p Great battle! Unexpected finish too :D

Why is that W08 so slow through the Suzuka hairpin though? I've tried it myself and I think it's safe to say a Gr.3 car is faster through that corner. Does that reflect real life, and if it does why is it so?
 
I saw the black open-wheeler in the thumbnail and briefly mistook it for the Dallara SF19, then I remembered that's not coming until the 28th :p Great battle! Unexpected finish too :D

Why is that W08 so slow through the Suzuka hairpin though? I've tried it myself and I think it's safe to say a Gr.3 car is faster through that corner. Does that reflect real life, and if it does why is it so?

I think he let me by because I waited for him after he messed up, he was a great guy to race,with, zero contact through two races of close back and forth action.

It basically has no bottom end power, I’m sure it could be tuned to be better but I think it’s nust the way the motor is. I did have TCS on 2 as well so that probably didn’t help either, it was my first crack at F1 for more than a lap or two so I needed the help. :)
 
It basically has no bottom end power, I’m sure it could be tuned to be better but I think it’s nust the way the motor is. I did have TCS on 2 as well so that probably didn’t help either, it was my first crack at F1 for more than a lap or two so I needed the help. :)
Yeah the car doesn't seem to have much power at low RPMs. Understandably so, since most of the time it's in the red zone :p However, it's unusually understeery there too, which can't have to do with bottom end power. I can at least confirm that TCS off doesn't make it the slightest bit better :lol:
 
I haven't raced much, but now I;m ready for a race. I spend all night with InkScape with a lovely result.
pWNz9Mr.gif


vtfvSQg.png

That was a lot of work! Fun though.

Now to go get it all banged up on the track!
 
As I expected, the biggest gain for me is being able to use partial throttle in turn 1, until I get the car pointed the right direction. The toughest thing is recovering, one the car gets loose. Lots of spins and wall collisions. One thing I noticed about the G29 is you have to push the brake really hard to get your car stopped. I'm gonna need a lot more practice with it. Wouldn't even think about entering a race, at this point.

I reckon there are various steps in the learning process, with both the brake and the accelerator. I guess too for some, if they have a gear lever, its said to give you faster gear changes. I may do that too ... but it would be a big step from using paddles.

As far as spinning goes - you can turn on the spin corrector, set it on weak. This helps. In fact I use it when there is tough racing - because when some bozo hits you, without it I tend to leave the track and get stuck ... with it on weak, the chances are much less IMO.

I haven't listed the upgrade path, but ... justing thinking of it now from my own perspective:

You likely know all this coz your good on a controller. I can only use a controller on the comments in GTS, and also, Ratchet and Clank, version 1 (some time ago on my son's PS3).
-Start with left foot braking, because its mandatory unless you can use heel and toe techniques (!!!!)
- Start with Traction Control on 2 - never more
- Start with ABS on weak
- Start with wheel at 430 degrees - goal is much more direct steering. Hamilton (the F1 guy) reckons the main guy (the CEO - Kazunori Yamauchi) at PD grips the wheel too hard - loose hands make you faster say Hamilton on GTS. As far as the wheel's feedback - its not that necessary IMO ... its the screen that must communicate with your brain. I have improved lately, and at the same time, my wheel settings got all corrupted. I have not reset the setup - my wheel has magnets that vibrate to give you track surface feedback - but right now they are not working. They've made no difference to my speed IMO.

- Learn to back off completely rather than brake - the tail moves out and you use the front tyres turned to slow the car and it turns - then you learn to feed the power in. When you are good at that, turn off TC and start all over again. In some races turn TC on at a corner you are slow at without it. But eventually you will learn to feed the power in, and also, to correct the steering at the same time.

And Oh - i drive GT4 a fare bit back a decade ago, and I used to flutter the throttle - this is slow. Its a bad habit, and under pressure, I still do it - and it unsettles the car. The benefit of the foot throttle is really its smoothness effecting the car.

And another thing - apply the throttle into braking or during braking does effect the balance of the car. That is a very valuable technique that should be on the list above ... not yet, but remember it. Applying some throttle kicks the weight onto the back wheels. I am slow in FWD cars and I hate driving them - maybe because I likely don't have the right technique in getting the for and aft balance of a FWD car right, which you do by not only braking but by punching in a bit for throttle into or during a corner.

A big step is combining the brakes with the accelerator. Some people talk about trail braking ... when I first started to try to do it, it really slowed me down. I found that at Bathurst, if I trailed braked at the end of the first straight, I was much slower. All over the track it was killing me. I had to remind myself not to trail brake ie use both the accerelator and the brake at the same time. Eventually I realised that a real upgrade in speed is to nail the apex every time, and a slight touch of the brake can increase apex accuracy enormously. This really increases consistent speed. Its far more important IMO than "Trail braking". It becomes instinctive with practice.

As far as learning about driving without TC - I learn't a lot on an oval track some many weeks ago driving the Corvette. I was much faster with TC on - and then I found the car was spinning its wheels under power - I backed off and fed in the power with smooth accelerator movement its
TC off - and I was quick. Quite quick actually.

I reckon Pigems could have a web site on improving ones driving ... he's increased a lot in speed lately and been thorough.

By the way Pigems, all the crashes - they are probably also people with secondary accounts. They are wrecking the game IMO. I guess i'll have to do it too ... but it seems to me that if a D or C or B driver is really fast and aggro - he's (or she) is likely also running a second account. Hence secondary accounts make the game a crasher's game. With just one account, it would not be IMO.
 
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Erm... left foot braking was developed in cars with a clutch :sly:.

I didn’t know this, thanks for the info man.

Also, my apologies for the lack of jampage lately, PD has been giving me squat all to work with. So I decided to manufacture some of my own, I hope this makes up for the lack of Big Air lately. :D

A little bit of Audi Air. :)
167199C6-E4E5-4273-B6E7-A007B50CFFC4.png


This one’s my favourite I think, over the mountain she goes. :)
F54130AF-3379-42B4-92A0-2005FA65E83A.png


The full incedent from a couple angles, this was an Epic Crash, but I did stick the landing. ;)
 
I reckon there are various steps in the learning process, with both the brake and the accelerator. I guess too for some, if they have a gear lever, its said to give you faster gear changes. I may do that too ... but it would be a big step from using paddles.

As far as spinning goes - you can turn on the spin corrector, set it on weak. This helps. In fact I use it when there is tough racing - because when some bozo hits you, without it I tend to leave the track and get stuck ... with it on weak, the chances are much less IMO.

I haven't listed the upgrade path, but ... justing thinking of it now from my own perspective:

You likely know all this coz your good on a controller. I can only use a controller on the comments in GTS, and also, Ratchet and Clank, version 1 (some time ago on my son's PS3).
-Start with left foot braking, because its mandatory unless you can use heel and toe techniques (!!!!)
- Start with Traction Control on 2 - never more
- Start with ABS on weak
- Start with wheel at 430 degrees - goal is much more direct steering. Hamilton (the F1 guy) reckons the main guy (the CEO or whatever) at PD grips the wheel to hard - loose hands make you faster say Hamilton on GTS. As far as feeds back - its not that necessary IMO ... its the screen that must communicate with your brain. I have improved lately, and at the same time, my wheel settings got all corrupted. I have not reset the setup - my wheel has magnets that vibrate to give you feedback - but right now they are not working. They've made no difference to my speed IMO.

- Learn to back off completely rather than brake - the tail moves out and you use the front tyres turned to slow the car and it turns - then you lean to feed the power in. When you are good at that, turn off TC and start all over again. In some races turn TC on at a corner you are slow at without it. But eventually you will learn to feed the power in, and also, to correct the steering at the same time.

A big step is combining the brakes with the accelerator. Some people talk about trail braking ... when I first started to try to do it, it really slowed me down. I found that at Bathurst, if I trailed braked at the end of the first straight, I was much slower. All over the track it was killing me. I had to remind myself not to trail brake ie use both the accerelator and the brake at the same time. Eventually I realised that a real upgrade in speed is to nail the apex every time, and a slight touch of the brake can increase apex accuracy enormously. This really increases consistent speed. Its far more important IMO than "Trail braking". It becomes instinctive with practice.

As far as learning about driving without TC - I learn't a lot on an oval track some many weeks ago driving the Corvette. I was much faster with TC on - and then I found the car was spinning its wheels under power - I backed off and fed in the power with smooth accelerator movement its
TC off - and I was quick. Quite quick actually.

I reckon Pigems could have a web site on improving ones driving ... he's increase a lot, lately.

Buy the way Pigems, all the crashes - they are probably also people with secondary accounts. They are wrecking the game IMO. I guess i'll have to do it too ... but it seems to me that if a D or C or B driver is really fast and aggro - he's (or she) is likely also running a second account. Hence secondary accounts make the game a crasher's game. With just one account, it would not be IMO.
Gosh, that's a lot of info. First of all, I'd be remiss if I didn't mention this:
Start with wheel at 430 degrees
That seems really damn hot. Now I see why some people wear gloves. :lol: Anyhow, I hadn't realized that steering ratio can be adjusted. Is that just on certain brands of wheel?

This piqued my interest, as well:
a slight touch of the brake can increase apex accuracy enormously
I'll have to check that out.

Thank you
 
I only have one account. I refuse to make another.

I have enough trouble remembering log-in and password info on first one. :D

I might though start one because I loose 1000 DR at the start of every week. I lost 900 DR in my first race at BB this week, in the BMW. I have won several races this week since, but I only get 80 DR for a win now unless the good guys turn up, and there haven't been many. My qualifying is currently 32.775 and I can see a quite a bit faster time if I sat there for quite a while. Where are the race condition danger spots? Where are the penalties applied? Where will other cars hit you? Do you need a good qualifying speed or can you just get going? What tyres work? What is the start like, in what gear? etc etc etc

So if I had another account, I could learn the race conditions and then switch accounts. I reckon I would have many more DR if that was the case. And I race against people who IMO are doing that. They turn up when in their real accounts they think they can win or at least gain DR. Or more likely, not loose DR. It sure hurts to loose 1600 DR in your first two races each darn week.

The current world leader in qualifying at BB this week is an Australian - and he has done only two races - or maybe it was just one race. He's been fastest for many days - but has only had one race??? Obviously he's switched to his main account now IMO. I don't think you get to top a world qualifying list, unless you have played this game before!!!
 
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Cool custom livery above!
Wheel thoughts...
Most of the time at apex should be max wheel turn and it should unwind as throttle is added on exit. I sometimes notice myself kinda having to hold the car in but when I’m in a better line I can just let it run out past apex naturally and get full throttle much sooner.
The less you turn the wheel overall the better. I think of none of this when driving but if I check a replay if I’m having trouble one of these will standout.
If I were just starting out and trying to do left foot braking I would use default abs and push the pedal all the way.
I would just make sure to hit the standard brakepoints first and not overshoot, then I would work on finesse after I got that...
That said, I never was able to left foot brake worth a darn so I ended up where I am at with right foot brake. Im not certain it’s a death sentence if it’s done decent, plus, I have to believe that because my left foot can’t brake in the manner I need in game.
Trail braking is a necessity in many many instances to get the turn in...I do fine with my right, but left is abysmal.
Personally I really like the GT Sport feedback, but at first I had no idea what was going on that much. Now, after all this time I find it indispensable. I can only relate to t80 but anyhow...
Sound settings are critical to me also. It’s important to hear what’s happening with tires.
Paddle shifters...man I love those...so fun and useful to have manual tranny..
It’s all a work in progress for me, but super fun. I can’t imagine playing a driving game without a wheel now.
Oh yeh I’d go auto and let the game do the rotation if it were me. Ymmv but I never change mine. The games designers set those things up for a reason, further I’d find a car you like and stick with just one and learn it well.
Jumping from car to car too much will lengthen the adjustment period. For myself, I find learning a car to take quite a while...
The way I look at it with these modern games, I feel so lucky. With this tech I literally have the best video games I’ve ever played at my disposal!
.
 
Gosh, that's a lot of info. First of all, I'd be remiss if I didn't mention this:

That seems really damn hot. Now I see why some people wear gloves. :lol: Anyhow, I hadn't realized that steering ratio can be adjusted. Is that just on certain brands of wheel?

This piqued my interest, as well:

I'll have to check that out.

Thank you

You might keep it in the back of your mind, but IMO that technique is best applied when your braking skill is good. It works though. I think your wheel can do 720 degrees .. and be extremely direct as well. I have found when I increased the directness I got faster. (But then I slowed again - which made me think about a technique issue). But IMO its best to start with it less direct. I may be wrong though. Worth a try to have it at 180 degrees. A clear benefit though is changing gears - if your paddles rotate with the wheel, sometimes its tough to change gears in sharp turning at around 400 degrees of turn!!!
 
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You might keep it in the back of your mind, but IMO that technique is best applied when your braking skill is good. It works though. I think your wheel can do 720 degrees .. and be extremely direct as well. I have found when I increased the directness I got faster. (But then I slowed again - which made me think about a technique issue). But IMO its best to start with it less direct. I may be wrong though. Worth a try to have it at 180 degrees. A clear benefit though is changing gears - if your paddles rotate with the wheel, sometimes its tough to change gears in sharp turning at around 400 degrees of turn!!!
Would I have to download the Logitech software and plug the wheel into my computer, in order to make steering ratio adjustments?
 
Would I have to download the Logitech software and plug the wheel into my computer, in order to make steering ratio adjustments?
Edit: It seems you have to do it from a computer.

This site says:
"
How to Change Logitech G29 Wheel Operating Range?

By default Logitech G29 driving force racing wheel will be set to the 900 degree wheel operating range. The operating range can be adjusted between 40 and 900 degrees, in 10 degree increments."


Here's a link:
https://www.softwarert.com/change-logitech-g29-wheel-operating-range/

I checked the controller setup inside the game - an it did not seem to allow a change in "rotation" there ... but it sure can be done.

End of Edit.




I don't know, but my G27 on GT4 was a 720 wheel and I had it at much more direct. And I did a search - they have discussed 180 degree settings.

I have a Fanatec setup and I have to alter it on a PC. But I am sure its easy to do, you'll have to google it. The manual will tell you too ...

You might try the controller area, your wheel should be mentioned. Its inside the game, not sure where though, at the beginning of the game. Click on your wheel and you should be able to change all sorts of things there.

My porsche GTR Fanatic wheel is superb, but its not supported by GTS - I cannot even sound a horn or flash my lights. But its a great wheel to hold - I was immediately faster with it than the Elite wheel. But I'd have got used to the Elite eventually. The Logitech is as good a wheel as the Elite IMO - but for the brakes, you might need to upgrade them with some add ons. There are stiff rubber cones that seem worthwhile IMO, which are cheap too. not sure how stiff the shipped rubber brake pressure cones are ...
 
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Edit: It seems you have to do it from a computer.

This site says:
"
How to Change Logitech G29 Wheel Operating Range?

By default Logitech G29 driving force racing wheel will be set to the 900 degree wheel operating range. The operating range can be adjusted between 40 and 900 degrees, in 10 degree increments."


Here's a link:
https://www.softwarert.com/change-logitech-g29-wheel-operating-range/

I checked the controller setup inside the game - an it did not seem to allow a change in "rotation" there ... but it sure can be done.

End of Edit.




I don't know, but my G27 on GT4 was a 720 wheel and I had it at much more direct. And I did a search - they have discussed 180 degree settings.

I have a Fanatec setup and I have to alter it on a PC. But I am sure its easy to do, you'll have to google it. The manual will tell you too ...

You might try the controller area, your wheel should be mentioned. Its inside the game, not sure where though, at the beginning of the game. Click on your wheel and you should be able to change all sorts of things there.

My porsche GTR Fanatic wheel is superb, but its not supported by GTS - I cannot even sound a horn or flash my lights. But its a great wheel to hold - I was immediately faster with it than the Elite wheel. But I'd have got used to the Elite eventually. The Logitech is as good a wheel as the Elite IMO - but for the brakes, you might need to upgrade them with some add ons. There are stiff rubber cones that seem worthwhile IMO, which are cheap too. not sure how stiff the shipped rubber brake pressure cones are ...
Thank you for the info. 900 degrees seems like way too much!
 
Thank you for the info. 900 degrees seems like way too much!

I doubt you will need more than 180 on most corners, usually much less, on the stock setting. Not even sure the G29 can be changed the way the G27 could. Regardless, I always used the G27 on the factory setting.
 
I have a Fanatec Clubsport V2 and can change steering ratio on the fly. I use a Drivehub to connect to PS4.

Good Times
Yeh but if I'd got one of those, I'd still be using my G25 ...

No point either in changing the rotation for races either, as it upsets things IMO. Also I don't think it picks up all he settings available for the PS4 GTS environment. Ie my Porsche wheel has magnets that feed back the track conditions - it now does that (although since I reset things its not but I have not bothered finding the proper settings). I would like though to flash my lights and sound my horn ... its disappointing that a Fanatec wheel that works on the Elite is not as compatible as the Elite wheel is.
 
I guess too for some, if they have a gear lever, its said to give you faster gear changes.
I'm happy to be corrected but I think this only applies to road cars with a clutch, not race cars with a semi automatic.


Edit: It seems you have to do it from a computer.

This site says:
"
How to Change Logitech G29 Wheel Operating Range?
Again I'm not 100%, but I believe this doesn't work on GTS. Once you plug the wheel in the game takes over and runs PD's own settings over the top of pc set custom settings.
However I think the game is already set up to calibrate the wheel to 180 degree rotation for race cars, so the only thing really missing is the bump stop at the end of rotation.
 
Again I'm not 100%, but I believe this doesn't work on GTS. Once you plug the wheel in the game takes over and runs PD's own settings over the top of pc set custom settings.
However I think the game is already set up to calibrate the wheel to 180 degree rotation for race cars, so the only thing really missing is the bump stop at the end of rotation.

I think you're right. Looked at changing mine when I found default was 900. Found that the wheel can be changed using buttons from 270 to 1080 but then this at the bottom of the page:

"This tip will not function properly in some games (such as GRAN TURISMO®) which adjust or modify the angle of rotation at startup or at the restart of each race, according to the type of car being used."
 
I just had some stupidly close races at race a just now where second place behind me was .2’s away at the finish line.
Think I’ll share the replays in discover.
Anybody know a track that’s like BB in real life?
 
Been trying out various tyre strategies at Fuji this week, but man I'm really running out of motivation in these daily races. PD's lack of creativity is just mind boggling.

Just some quick back of paper calculations:

Currently we have 279 cars and 73 track variants, which gives 20,367 unique combos.

If we need 7 races a week (3 daily + 4 FIA), then all combos will be exhausted in 20,367 / 7 = 2,909 weeks. Or almost 56 years :crazy:

If we went back to actual daily races, we need 25 races a week (7x3 daily + 4 FIA). All combos will be exhausted in 20,367 / 25 = 814 weeks or 15.6 years.

Obviously there are some combos that just wouldn't work (e.g. W08 at Willow Horse Thief or karts at La Sarthe), and not all cars can be fitted with dirt tyres, so the actual numbers will be lower. But as you can see above even with actual daily race change frequency we would still not run out of unique races until PS5 and the next GT is released. If they are too lazy to pick combos they can even make a randomizer exe in 5 minutes to spit out combos each day, and have one guy do a test run to make sure each race is drivable. Would take 1 hour max but adds greatly to variation and community engagement. In current situation it's just very very demotivating to see the same races week in, week out and we have to wait another 7 days if it's something we've seen before... :rolleyes:
 
Edit: It seems you have to do it from a computer.

This site says:
"
How to Change Logitech G29 Wheel Operating Range?

By default Logitech G29 driving force racing wheel will be set to the 900 degree wheel operating range. The operating range can be adjusted between 40 and 900 degrees, in 10 degree increments."


Here's a link:
https://www.softwarert.com/change-logitech-g29-wheel-operating-range/

I checked the controller setup inside the game - an it did not seem to allow a change in "rotation" there ... but it sure can be done.

End of Edit.




I don't know, but my G27 on GT4 was a 720 wheel and I had it at much more direct. And I did a search - they have discussed 180 degree settings.

I have a Fanatec setup and I have to alter it on a PC. But I am sure its easy to do, you'll have to google it. The manual will tell you too ...

You might try the controller area, your wheel should be mentioned. Its inside the game, not sure where though, at the beginning of the game. Click on your wheel and you should be able to change all sorts of things there.

My porsche GTR Fanatic wheel is superb, but its not supported by GTS - I cannot even sound a horn or flash my lights. But its a great wheel to hold - I was immediately faster with it than the Elite wheel. But I'd have got used to the Elite eventually. The Logitech is as good a wheel as the Elite IMO - but for the brakes, you might need to upgrade them with some add ons. There are stiff rubber cones that seem worthwhile IMO, which are cheap too. not sure how stiff the shipped rubber brake pressure cones are ...

These settings changes are ONLY for PC games. They won't carry over to a PS3 or PS4.
 
Edit: It seems you have to do it from a computer.

This site says:
"
How to Change Logitech G29 Wheel Operating Range?

By default Logitech G29 driving force racing wheel will be set to the 900 degree wheel operating range. The operating range can be adjusted between 40 and 900 degrees, in 10 degree increments."


Here's a link:
https://www.softwarert.com/change-logitech-g29-wheel-operating-range/

I checked the controller setup inside the game - an it did not seem to allow a change in "rotation" there ... but it sure can be done.

End of Edit.




I don't know, but my G27 on GT4 was a 720 wheel and I had it at much more direct. And I did a search - they have discussed 180 degree settings.

I have a Fanatec setup and I have to alter it on a PC. But I am sure its easy to do, you'll have to google it. The manual will tell you too ...

You might try the controller area, your wheel should be mentioned. Its inside the game, not sure where though, at the beginning of the game. Click on your wheel and you should be able to change all sorts of things there.

My porsche GTR Fanatic wheel is superb, but its not supported by GTS - I cannot even sound a horn or flash my lights. But its a great wheel to hold - I was immediately faster with it than the Elite wheel. But I'd have got used to the Elite eventually. The Logitech is as good a wheel as the Elite IMO - but for the brakes, you might need to upgrade them with some add ons. There are stiff rubber cones that seem worthwhile IMO, which are cheap too. not sure how stiff the shipped rubber brake pressure cones are ...

The G29 is a "dummy" device - it does not have a memory to keep the changed settings in itself, unlike the Thrustmaster wheels, so any changes made on the PC will be applicable only on the PC and not transferred on the PS.
 
The G29 is a "dummy" device - it does not have a memory to keep the changed settings in itself, unlike the Thrustmaster wheels, so any changes made on the PC will be applicable only on the PC and not transferred on the PS.
Although there are some devices that can sit between the G29 and the PS4 ... but its nicely made with a great pedal quality as well, and at a good price, and its reliable too. There are even 3rd party load cell upgrades for the pedals.
 
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