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Discussion in 'DiRT Series' started by PJTierney, Feb 17, 2019.
Great, Thank you
A year late, codies have put up a 3 part (as of yesterday) dirt tutorial its worth a look albeit its pretty obvious stuff. Couldve done with a car set up and more importantly pad set up tutorial as the defaults dont allow oversteer correction or effective handbraking...
Hello lads, I've got this game and I have a few questions. I had a few rally games in the PS1 days (still have the original Colin McRae Rally) but haven't played any in a long time. Actually I think I had a WRC game in ~2004 or so, but I don't remember exactly.
Aside from the videos above, is there anything I should know for rally driving? I've only been using my G29 since last November (for GT Sport, PCars and Assetto Corsa so far) and after just trying some gravel stages in a Fulvia there, I'm... well, rubbish, obviously. How big is the learning curve likely to be, given how relatively new I am to circuit driving?
Try the game on free play you can choose any vehicle and find one that feels right to you (the career mode is trash) slower is generally faster when you're starting off. I found dirt 2 slow to master but very satisfying when it clicks so persevere you wont regret it... You will crash frequently its a given when you start off..,defo tweak the control settings/driver aids (one at a time) until it feels right to you. I only use pad but even that needed quite a few tweaks in itself to get it sweet, its subjective. Im sure some wheel users will be able to give you detailed setting recommendations, but for now I spotted this...
Few simple tips.
- Lower sound of engine and surface effects in game to about 75-80 but speech up to 100. This in my opinion makes the Co-Drivers calls easier to follow and take less effort to hear. (Kind of more realistic aswell as it replicate the incar intercom most rally crews would have)
- As you will probably hear people tell you a lot earlier on driving more cautiously is faster than just pushing straight away. Try and drive clean stages with no major mistakes and then build up your speed as your confidence increases.
- Setups, not only used to be more competitive but make certain cars way more easier to drive. RWD cars like the the MK2 Escort for example can be made a lot easier to drive with a setup. Or even just by lowering some of the diff settings. Some of the default gears are poor too but that shouldnt be an issue earlier on. You will notice that they are too short for a lot of the cars and will need adjusting further down the line. Dont forget to lower camber settings when wet stages are coming up Etc.
Most of the fun in DiRT Rally/2.0 is the journey is getting better.
I actually forgot to mention the co-driver. When I first started driving my instinct was to look for a track map. Whoops.
I did struggle to pair what the co-driver was telling me with what I was seeing on the road. It was like I was hearing him, looking at the road and looking at the symbols at the top and trying to process them all individually. I'm sure I'll get better as I go on, but if changing the sound settings helps I'll give it a try.
I'm not planning on doing anything too competitive with it so I'm definitely not expecting to be fast or going to be unhappy if I'm not. I also haven't seriously tuned a car in a game since GT5, so it'll be fun finding all of that out too.
One other question. How much does the season pass usually get discounted by?
It will hit 75% sooner or later bookmark it and check every 2 weeks, Ive paid peanuts for season 1 and 2... (I would avoid season 4 unless you like rallycross, they are not good value compared to full stages) You only need 1 season purchase to qualify for the upcoming colin mcrae pack with scotland stages...
In my opinion, the visual pace note icons and timing info & ribbon are best disabled. You should be hearing the pace notes, so having the icons is just a distraction. And knowing the split times will just make you push too hard, or relax too much, either of which will make you more likely to crash. It's best to just concentrate on driving your own pace and let the results be what they're going to be.
I really like the game, but the screen tearing though..... sometimes it’s pretty rough an breaks the excellent immersion. Ps4 regular.
never had screen tearing on my standard ps4
I haven’t noticed any on mine either
All 7 videos are up now
DR 2.0 a year on.
Nice review It would be nice to get the Toyota's in. And hopefully Pikes Peak can return for DR3, I wish PD would have let CM include it in DR2, as it's hardly a competitor to GT.
If you are on a ps4 controller, set linearity to zero and you will see the most astonishing game change you have ever seen, specially in what it comes to what you say, oversteer correction, hand-braking and your overall countersteer capabilities.
Still cannot fathom why linearity isn't set to zero by default. The handling of the game changes, completely, for the better, similar to old school days od driving games with the controller, kinda cmr2.
I completely agree with you same goes for reducing handbrake saturation, cant imagine why you would want partial handbrake as a default either? I guess play testing was only done for steering wheel, when pad was always going to be the majority of users...
I just tried the Grid demo, huh well, i..i..aye aye aye... Lol.
Not for me..., not sure what's the point unless for kiddies, i mean there's nothing interesting in the handling, i off all aids and it's same to me lol.
Also the style is like the 2nd dirt game if i remember, with over the top silly kiddy coolishness lol.
Not exactly the same codemasters that i love with dr2.
Does it feel different to Grid Autosport then ?
Well i think i tried the demo of that too back on the x360? If i remember it was more oversteery, maybe more fun.
I've been playing DR2 for over 6 months now but only in the last month have I been really grinding for the platinum, only a few trophies away now.
Does anybody have any setups for the Audi Quattro? And general setup controller tips?
I've seen a comment regarding getting the Colin Mcrea Scotland DLC for free so long as youve purchased a season - is this true?
Lastly could anybody help me get DLC trophies? Specially someone with Monte Carlo and Greece locations?
If you pay attention to the setup screen numbers, they differ when you are at a tarmac stage or gravel even when the sliders seem set at the same positions. On gravel, springs and even wheel geometry values change, being the spring values way more lower for gravel rallies with the slider in the same place, and pretty hight for alphalt with the slider in the same position than prior in a gravel rally.
This is overall setup philosophy for most cars. When you are on gravel rally, first and foremost run higher camber setup on the rear wheels and lower in the front. My favourite setup for this regardless the cars is 1 on the rears and '50 on the front axis. Also add at least +0'2 rear toe specially for beasts like the Audi you wanted to know setup about, and of course any rear wheel drive car.
Brakes: Total preference here, although I'd recommend one point stronger and a little bit front biased, for then you have the hand brake for little adjustments (on gravel, on asphalt we careful not to press it too much).
Springs: Here is where I told you that you will see that your mechanics have mounted on your car different srpings. On gravel rallies, you will see your car has no very high values available even if you take your slider to the max right, and that it almost always range from 58nn-80-90-100 on the front, and less nn. on the rear. On tarmac, you will see very high values available ranging from 150nn++ even with the sliders being set in the middle usually. I'd still recommend lowering those huge front values of +150nn or so down to 110-120nn, and a max of 80-90nn on the rear when the car in front engine like the Audi. If the cars is middle or rear engine, then try to go the same on the rear and front, same for roll bars (softer roll bar for front rear engine like audi.)
Again remember. Do not setup your car with the sliders in mind when spring setups. Look at the numbers, not the slider positions. In some cars you will find the same situation even with camber setup, specially with the old cars.
Differentials: Always always locked setups for both power ramp and coast. The preload is a preference. Increase preload in very fast rallies only, like Spain, Polonia, and of course Finland. You may open the power ramp differential a bit under ver low grip conditions when the rain is hard and the gravel has turned into mud, and in the Sweedish rally too. Open the coast diff in crazy cornering rallies like Argentina, but only a bit as well.
Dampers: If the road is very bumby like in argentina lower them all a bit but the fast bumps specially on the rear. On tarmac, take them all one click to the right. Don't get too hotheaded with the damping setup.
If you're on a ps4 controller like me set the linearity to zero. That is the most important part of everything, more important than even your car setup trust me regardless it may sound a bit silly. Also leave sensivity to 50. You will be able to control every slide now and react as naturally as you would expect, which means you will be a lot faster and confident with your car. I still can't believe the linearity doesn't come set to zero by default given the GAME CHANGING feeling you get out of it.
It may be that I am not used to it, but I tried setting my linearity to zero (on PS4) and didn't like the feel so much. Been playing at 4 for so long that anything less feels twitchy and harder to control. I might try to experiment with it a little more, though, because it could take a while to adjust to zero.
Thank you friend, very detailed I will try this and specifically controller linearity.
Do you have Monte Carlo and Greece location?
Heads up, S3 & S4 now only £8.99 on Xbox. I'm so glad I waited, I almost bought it last week at £20..
Have you tried playing on bumper camera with all to the left field of view?, It is another game changer for me, specially in order to feel the linearity "fix" as true when eating the apexes hard followed by also hard counter-steering.
Linearity works against you when you have to act fast trust me. False feeling of control. Linearity to zero won't make the car feel twichy, you will see. Perhaps it is here that you fear linearity to zero, but you won't get that feeling. On the other hand the feeling will be the complete opposite. Of absolute cars control to the point that you might also feels that physics are different.
yeah why?, if it is about setups, in Montecarlo just don't set your springs very stiff (100-120nn front and 80nn rear will do) as well as not running very low ride heights. You need your car to rotate here under control. 58 brake bias will do wonders as well. Little handbrake hits prior tight corners followed by absolute throttle control while sideways is the key in this rally, even in the snowy parts. Wheel geometry will depend on your car. Typical 4x4?, balanced fron and rear or just a little more camber on the rear, plus -2 front toe and +2 rear toe. RWD?, way more camber on the rear. Keep those anti-roll bars softs here too, specially on the rear. Low preload, strong lock on the power ramp and coast. Damping don't get too hotheaded here. Just increase them a bit and that's all. If the diff in a 4x4 car allows torque distribution, just two or three clicks to the rear.
On greece. Very high ride height, and very soft springs. More camber on the rear wheels regardless it is a 4x4 or RWD; -2 toe on the front; very soft roll bars and damping (keep fast bump stiffer than slow bump in both front and rear axis in this rally), as well as of course very locked power ramp. Decrease coast and preload a bit and again run a 58% bias brake setup. Little handbrake pushes in this rally too prior tight corners is again the key, as well as absolute throttle control the moment you face sideways after that.
Any car that features viscuous differentials. Keep then tight as well regardless it is a very technical rally like Monte or Greece. Viscuous diff. has always been a very good invention that works wonders on some cars with very unique chasis specifications.
Great setup advice, I look forward to trying these out.
To this day I still find all of the RWD cars unmanageable. Of course the Group B cars are brutal with the rear end constantly breaking traction out of slow corners, but it’s the worst on loose surfaces, and don’t even get me started on wet surfaces and worn/hard tires.
Since the linearity "fix" solving all my issues with rwd cars literally too (and sensivity keep it at default 50), I can't help but believe that you are still suffering from a combination of bad car setups when it comes to any rwd car with the engine allocated on the rear or in the middle-rear, combined with of course heavy right foot issues, as well as not setting linearity to zero in order to properly control your car at all instances.
When you setup a rwd car with the engine on the back regardless it is a stratos, alpine, or more powerful group B, are you following some basic rules?, first and foremost you have to set the springs as even as you can on both rear an front. For instance, fast gravel rally on Finland. I will then set both rear and front springs to more or less 80nn on both axis, and a difference with the front roll bar being only just about 5nn stiffer than on the rear (since it is a fast rally, imagine 15nn in the front and 10nn in the back). Are we at Greece now?, increase ride height by a good margin (always one tick higher on the rear), but now something like 58-58nn for spring stifness in both axis, as well as even lighter roll bars, but front still stiffer (something like 12 front and 6 rear). Spain now?, 100nn-100nn both front and rear, and like 25nn front anti-roll and 15nn anti-roll rear, as well as decreasing ride height by a good margin of course. If you don't balance the spring stiffness in both axis when the engine is on the back, then you are prone to lose the rear at medium-fast speeds, plus sudden spin off at slower corners and hairpins. Keep the rear springs in these back engine rwd cars regardless their power as stiff as in the front, otherwise the weight of the engine will work to your detriment when rotating and applying throttle because it's got a looser -nn. setup than in the front, and you will end up losing the back.
Second and almost as important, the wheel geometry in these cars with back engine and rwd. You need at the very least +0'50 camber on the rear wheels (again the Finland example above, now go for something like 1'0 on the rear, and 0'50 on the front. Spain now?, 1'50 rear and 1'0 front or something along those lines). With this we are promoting power understeering to be safe even with these powerful angry cars. Now you can put the ice on the cake by adding 0'2 positive toe in both front and rear, to make har corner taking followed by also quick counter-steering even more safe after the camber setup.
Third with these back engine cars. Brake bias always a bit to the front instead of the basic 58% or so if the engine os on the front. The sweet spot with these back-middle engine rwd cars regardless its power is around 66% front bias, as we don't want these cars to block the rears too much.
Four the diffs. Always always very locked diff regardless they are more powerful or less, as well as locked coast You need the car to rotate.
For RWD Rally GT cars that have the engine on the front, you can continue to follow the philosophy of softer springs on the rear and stiffen on the front, as well as reducing brake bias to 58% or so, but the wheel geometry stuff will have to be similar to RWD cars with the engine on the back, since we want to continue to power-understeer through the corners safely and with good rotation angles. With the Rally GT Porche R-GT, you will have to follow the same rules explained above for the rest of rwd cars with back engine.
And finally, after the lineratity thing = 0, it is all about quick acting with the dual shock now that your inputs will feel way more natural with it = 0, as well as some good right foot work when negotiating corners, as well as the right use of handbrake, which would consists on little hits prior entering a tight corner, followed by sweet right foot- steering corrections.
Have you also tried your camera view set to bumper with the fov all to the left?= max precision, and with the lineraity story = completely new game.
Well I use a wheel so the linearity part won’t apply. I should have mentioned that.
The mid engine cars don’t seem so bad like the Stratos, but all the rest RWD including even the slower H2 cars find me spinning too easily out of hairpins. I think my issue is differential setups and the camber/toe settings. The springs I use are almost always even front and rear. My roll bar is usually softer on the front.
Lately I’ve been running the mid engine BMW M1, but I struggle controlling it out of tight corners unlike the Stratos which I can manage decently. I thought maybe the issue is the longer wheelbase comparatively, but I’m really not sure. Maybe it’s my heavy right foot!
Uff, this game ain't friendly with a wheel imho. It doesn't feel good to me on my t300 either, so I play with ps4 controller and the linearity thing.
H2 cars are front engine most of them, hence you have to run stiffer spring setup in the front and more soft on the rear. And are your wheel geometry settings like I told you in the post above?, if you are running more camber on the front wheels than in the rears with these front engine cars you will have trouble too. Running more camber on the rears than in the front doesn't have anything to do with engine positions, but with promoting power-understeering the best way possible. Most 4x4 cars can handle even camber settings in all wheels and fly around the track so safely, but extra +0'50 camber on the rear can make sliding around even more fun and safe on these cars too.
And the stiffer rear anti-roll bars with any H2-H3-GroupB whatever car with back engine is a mistake. Always run stiffer anti-roll in the front, with a difference of 5nn or so between front and rear with these cars.
And what about your toe settings. Are you also adding a little +0'2 on the front wheels for gravels raids (not tarmac), not just on the rears?
If this all I have told you doesn't work then I'm afraid yes, you have right foot issues : - D, as well as I suspect you must be opening the power ramp setting, which you should never because it also leads to spin off. These two things, plus this game sucking balls with a wheel of course, and also not being able to use handbrake properly at all times like you can with the controller.
Handbraking is capital, too. Can you do them properly with your wheel, or just using the throttle and brake?
And about the BMW1. Are you properly setting the ride height very high on gravel-bumpy locations, specially when the road is totally degraded, as well as following the rest of my setup recommendations?, the chasis characteristics of this car makes it very ride height low by default. Also, don't lower ride height too much even on tarmac with this car.
Hi all, haven't been here in a while, wanted to drop some news