DiRT Rally 2.0 General Discussion

  • Thread starter Thread starter PJTierney
  • 2,774 comments
  • 313,845 views
I started the monthly community event (h1). How much does It pay off at the end?
I got 17th after the first event (probably nobody playing it cause i am not that good) and got 93.500 cr.
Press R2 (or equivalent) on the Event selection screen and you’ll see what your potential rewards are.

I think top of the board will get 1,000,000 at the end.
 
Only problem with a monthly even is you have to wait a month to receive the credits.
I really wish you could earn credits from custom championships
I agree. And if I recall, in Dirt Rally 1 we did earn credits from custom championships, so not sure why they didn't carry that over.
 
Basically career mode is just grinding for trophies. I do not get any immersion in those random career events with increasing difficulty level and they even pay less than community events.

The real career will be setting up a 12 rounds custom championship after all the DLC seasons. I Hope wales, Finland and Greece in season 2.
 
Does anyone have any general guidance for a tuning noobie for the cars in Dirt 2.0? I'm finding most of the cars to be suffering from understeer, even the Group A, R5 and 2000CC cars seem to suffer from poor braking and understeer- far more than I recall from Dirt Rally- I can't seem to throw the cars around as much either, they seem more floaty so some top line tips would be much appreciated 👍
 
Does anyone have any general guidance for a tuning noobie for the cars in Dirt 2.0? I'm finding most of the cars to be suffering from understeer, even the Group A, R5 and 2000CC cars seem to suffer from poor braking and understeer- far more than I recall from Dirt Rally- I can't seem to throw the cars around as much either, they seem more floaty so some top line tips would be much appreciated 👍

- Increase toe out rear and front. Just one click on the rear or you will die of oversteer. You can do two clicks on the front.
- More camber on the front wheel, less on the rear.
- Sightly stiff rear roll bars (I always turn them off-slider full left in rally games). Be advised the oversteer will come when throttling on corner exit. On entry you will have more understeer.
- Looser front accel. diff, stronger-more blocked on the rear.
- Rear ride height, higher.
- More break bias to the rear, but in this off road cars is preferable to keep it kind front bias too like on track racing, and make use of the handbrake..

Whn you reach a corner, use your handbrake. Push it sighlt but many times while cornering, as you apply throttle for exit.

Handbrake is capital in rally or in any other off-road discipline. Your preferred oversteer moments will come through using it. Always always use handbrake with these cars, even on open corners to an extent.
 
Basically career mode is just grinding for trophies. I do not get any immersion in those random career events with increasing difficulty level and they even pay less than community events.

The real career will be setting up a 12 rounds custom championship after all the DLC seasons. I Hope wales, Finland and Greece in season 2.
The “real Career” for me are the Daily Challenges. It’s fun to put it all on the line and get a good leaderboard position.

Speaking of:

 
- Increase toe out rear and front. Just one click on the rear or you will die of oversteer. You can do two clicks on the front.
- More camber on the front wheel, less on the rear.
- Sightly stiff rear roll bars (I always turn them off-slider full left in rally games). Be advised the oversteer will come when throttling on corner exit. On entry you will have more understeer.
- Looser front accel. diff, stronger-more blocked on the rear.
- Rear ride height, higher.
- More break bias to the rear, but in this off road cars is preferable to keep it kind front bias too like on track racing, and make use of the handbrake..

Whn you reach a corner, use your handbrake. Push it sighlt but many times while cornering, as you apply throttle for exit.

Handbrake is capital in rally or in any other off-road discipline. Your preferred oversteer moments will come through using it. Always always use handbrake with these cars, even on open corners to an extent.

Many thanks buddy for taking the time to give me some tips, I'm sure these will improve my experience!

I found a lot of the stock setups in Dirt felt better to me than in 2.0, I use the handbrake a lot but in 2.0 find it unbalances the car a lot more than Dirt Rally where you could launch into a corner, pull the handbrake and slide around.

Thanks again I'll give your tips a try 👍
 
Noo nooo man delete that video asap omg hahh. I appreciate the shout out, but we may be misleading a lot of folks out there with the info given in the video. I mean maybe I wasn't clear enough when I talked about the diff on these old rwd cars. I was talking specifically about the Sierra Cosworth, which comes equipped (in this game only actually which surprised me) with a viscous differential. The viscous differential has nothing to do with the accel and decel differential ramps you see in the other cars.

What you're doing in the video is setting the first slider to a loose setting (power ramp_acceleration diff). What this does is not allowing the wheel under load to spin faster than the other in the same axis, which may give you a false* feeling of superior control of the back end on slippery roads (mud_ wet mud; gravel_wet gravel; snow; ice; wet tarmac; other), but will also make you lose a lot of time, because it won't allow the car accelerate to the max until there's no more slip.

When racing, regardless dry tarmax or dry gravel_mud, you must use a blocked differential. It will always lead to more understeer and the car will be prone to spin the wheel too much when in the middle of the act of negotiating a corner, but will give you more stability the moment you enter it, and with the proper throttle_steering skills, allow you to exit it faster gaining tenth by tenth corner after corner, because it won't hog your engine by stopping the spinning wheel under load until it matches the other. This is why rally drivers use the handbrake that much. It helps you overcome the high blocking setting on the accel diff, for then taking advantage of the unleashed power it grants you in the middle of the corner that is being negotiated by allowing the spinning wheel to continue to spin, basing everything on pure skill of your throttle/steering skills.

If you have found that you're so confortable with a very loose diff like you did in the video and on your personal testings after my post, remember that it will come to the cost of so much time lost, so I'd advise, at the very very least, you bring back that slider to the right again up to its middle setting. Still, and with that false* feeling of superior control of your car, you will continue to loose time until you bring back that power ramp to a tight angle (the slider more to the right).

The second slider you're also wrongly setting it to very loose, or the loosest setting, is the deceleration differential, which should also left it to kind of very blocked. This will give you stability under breaking before a corner with the con of more understeer, but the pay off is positive given the nature of a wrd car, and because the handbrake is, again, key for rally racing, so use it. Actually, I don't understand how you didn't spin when breaking before every corner in the video with the decel diff set to loose : - D

The preload you can play with it regardless. More preload will give you more stability, less more agility, but on rwd cars is recommended to leave it kinda high.
___________________________________________________________
* Try a full loose accel. diff setting on dry tarmac and find out why that feeling of better/superior control is completely false, and find yourself spinning around everytime you touch the throttle under evry grippy conditions such as that one on that surface, because not allowing the spinning wheel to continue to spìn under grippy conditions will lead to inevitable spin, while a blocked setting won't regardless you have more power on the throttle when exiting. It is the nature of gravel_mud racing on gravel_mud tyres what has given that false feeling of superior control without spinning even on a loose power ramp setting and on a rwd car. The moment you do the same with the same accel diff setting on asphalt and with asphalt tyres, specially if they are performance tyres, then you will spin all around the moment you exit a corner most probably.

Remember. Loose accel diff setting only under very very slippery conditions regardless it is gravel or tarmac. And still, don't open it to the max. Leave it on a balanced setting.
___________________________________________________________

Hope this wall of text (sorry) helped clarify matters. You must use blocked accel diffs when racing regardless the power of your car.

For me tuning is more or less a mystery and lengthy system of trial and error. I’ve been reading and re-reading this post many times wrapping my head around it. I’ve also watched some videos about LSD’s and how they function and I believe I understand how they work yet the MKII is still difficult to control especially on gravel at speed. Wet gravel and a heavily degraded surface even worse. Though I don’t feel it’s all about the LSD to tame this and other RWD cars.

So let’s go to the next topic of setup, the suspension. The MKII seems to teeter on an uncontrollable knife edge when in a straight line especially on gravel with dips. Entering medium to fast turns are worse since the car really wants to swap ends. My thoughts this has something to do with springs, toe, camber, or ride height, maybe the anti-roll bar. Not sure. A more planted, confident feel is what I’m looking for and any more guidance is appreciated.
 
For me tuning is more or less a mystery and lengthy system of trial and error. I’ve been reading and re-reading this post many times wrapping my head around it. I’ve also watched some videos about LSD’s and how they function and I believe I understand how they work yet the MKII is still difficult to control especially on gravel at speed. Wet gravel and a heavily degraded surface even worse. Though I don’t feel it’s all about the LSD to tame this and other RWD cars.

So let’s go to the next topic of setup, the suspension. The MKII seems to teeter on an uncontrollable knife edge when in a straight line especially on gravel with dips. Entering medium to fast turns are worse since the car really wants to swap ends. My thoughts this has something to do with springs, toe, camber, or ride height, maybe the anti-roll bar. Not sure. A more planted, confident feel is what I’m looking for and any more guidance is appreciated.
On older rwd cars I'd advise a lower height on the rear axis, as well as removing roll bars. Suspension should be kept stiffer on the front if the engine is on the front; balanced when it is middle engine, and depending on the weight transfer sightly stiffer on the rear, but this last will not be always the optimal case (this happens on Porches due to their singular design and the way they distribute weight under load).

Regarding rallies where people seem to be struggling with these cars such as Poland because they lose control on those straights. You should have no fear on lowering your car ride height even when riding gravel. Poland stages, unless very degradated are relatively smooth and their layouts fast, so give it a go and lower you car ride height on a more tarmac racing fashion, but without going that far (find that even field); but still, and like said before about these old rwd cars, keep their rear height lower than the front. It is also on these fast paced rallies where you may feel like using roll bars (never do it on twisted ones like Aus; NZ etc), even if the surface is gravel. Combined with stiffer springs, lower ride heights and the positive toe, your stability at higher speeds will be there for your pleasure, but you will have to be careful when sliding in the middle of those fast corners.

As an addition for these fast rallies, you can also apply toe in (positive toe) on both axis to increase car stability at high speeds as well as more camber on the rear. Apply for instance one click to positive on the front and a couple of them on the rear. The cost will be increased understeer at high speed too, but this is gravel racing, and the handbrakew is there for a reason. Use it at all times while you know you're riding on a stable car too.

And the accel. diff on these cars must remain blocked regardless your initial feelings. Open it only on very slippery conditions. You may reduce the decel. diff a couple of clicks if you feel like, but I wouldn't advise it under most circumstances, specially on those cars that don't like sliding too much and are not particularly stable under braking even with positive toe in applied on both axix (Stratos).
 
Event Challenge: something did not go as intended. Again an argue with my mate Phil. We were too busy with eachother and I completely missed a turn. Thanks Phil :dopey:;)

Be honest, this one looks really sad right?
Dirt Rally 2 Screenshot 2019.03.14 - 19.57.49.66.png


But then my engineers did an outstanding job. I took the advice of Samir's codriver: Concentrate!!
Continued my journey with a clean and repaired car

Dirt Rally 2 Screenshot 2019.03.14 - 20.03.50.82.png

Dirt Rally 2 Screenshot 2019.03.14 - 20.04.13.64.png
 
and be a lot earlier.
Event Challenge: something did not go as intended. Again an argue with my mate Phil. We were too busy with eachother and I completely missed a turn. Thanks Phil :dopey:;)

Be honest, this one looks really sad right?
View attachment 807093

But then my engineers did an outstanding job. I took the advice of Samir's codriver: Concentrate!!
Continued my journey with a clean and repaired car

View attachment 807096
View attachment 807095

Lol, poor car. At least you got him to a good doctor. :)
 
Completely sick of the rain, night and terrible lighting even during daylight. It's just not fun anymore.
Harsh weather conditions are integral to the rally sport. Precisely, wet gravel_mud physics is what I'm liking the most about this game, along with RWD cars which are the ones offering me the most fun out of this game.

On a side note but on a very close context about the frustrations of many with this game, I really don't understand what may be the problem many folks are having with RWD car aside classic legendary ego engine oddities regarding physics under some particular instances. I play this game on a xbox1 controller and the handling is superb as usual with CM games, and my inevitable conclusion after many hours into it can only be that the actual problem lies on them right feet, as well as the very high chance that they don't use handbrake at all as well even for saving the car from inevitable spins when it feels irrecoverable.
 
Harsh weather conditions are integral to the rally sport. Precisely, wet gravel_mud physics is what I'm liking the most about this game, along with RWD cars which are the ones offering me the most fun out of this game.

On a side note but on a very close context about the frustrations of many with this game, I really don't understand what may be the problem many folks are having with RWD car aside classic legendary ego engine oddities regarding physics under some particular instances. I play this game on a xbox1 controller and the handling is superb as usual with CM games, and my inevitable conclusion after many hours into it can only be that the actual problem lies on them right feet, as well as the very high chance that they don't use handbrake at all as well even for saving the car from inevitable spins when it feels irrecoverable.
I din't mention any of that but thanks for your input...
 
Harsh weather conditions are integral to the rally sport. Precisely, wet gravel_mud physics is what I'm liking the most about this game, along with RWD cars which are the ones offering me the most fun out of this game.

On a side note but on a very close context about the frustrations of many with this game, I really don't understand what may be the problem many folks are having with RWD car aside classic legendary ego engine oddities regarding physics under some particular instances. I play this game on a xbox1 controller and the handling is superb as usual with CM games, and my inevitable conclusion after many hours into it can only be that the actual problem lies on them right feet, as well as the very high chance that they don't use handbrake at all as well even for saving the car from inevitable spins when it feels irrecoverable.

Not quite the point he was making. I watch rallying a lot and there's nowhere near the amount of rain and night stages that dirt rally 2 would have you believe. It gets very tiresome. Fortunately custom championships exist.
 
It's so disheartening that you are having such a bad time with weather and night conditions in rally. I'll keep you two in my prayers tonight
 
For example, the timetable for the upcoming Tour de Corse.

Friday 29th March
SS1 Bavella 1 08:29 AM
SS2 Valinco 1 09:24 AM
SS3 Alta-Rocca 1 10:32 AM
SS4 Bavella 2 02:05 PM
SS5 Valinco 2 03:00 PM
SS6 Alta-Rocca 2 04:08 PM
Saturday 30th March
SS7 Cap Corse 1 07:38 AM
SS8 Désert des Agriates 1 09:08 AM
SS9 Castagniccia 1 10:14 AM
SS10 Cap Corse 2 02:38 PM
SS11 Désert des Agriates 2 04:08 PM
SS12 Castagniccia 2 05:14 PM
Sunday 31rd March
SS13 Eaux de Zilia 09:45 AM
SS14 Calvi (Power Stage) 12:18 PM
Podium Ceremony (Calvi) 03:00 PM

All we need is for the game to be a bit more realistic.
 
On older rwd cars I'd advise a lower height on the rear axis, as well as removing roll bars. Suspension should be kept stiffer on the front if the engine is on the front; balanced when it is middle engine, and depending on the weight transfer sightly stiffer on the rear, but this last will not be always the optimal case (this happens on Porches due to their singular design and the way they distribute weight under load).

Regarding rallies where people seem to be struggling with these cars such as Poland because they lose control on those straights. You should have no fear on lowering your car ride height even when riding gravel. Poland stages, unless very degradated are relatively smooth and their layouts fast, so give it a go and lower you car ride height on a more tarmac racing fashion, but without going that far (find that even field); but still, and like said before about these old rwd cars, keep their rear height lower than the front. It is also on these fast paced rallies where you may feel like using roll bars (never do it on twisted ones like Aus; NZ etc), even if the surface is gravel. Combined with stiffer springs, lower ride heights and the positive toe, your stability at higher speeds will be there for your pleasure, but you will have to be careful when sliding in the middle of those fast corners.

As an addition for these fast rallies, you can also apply toe in (positive toe) on both axis to increase car stability at high speeds as well as more camber on the rear. Apply for instance one click to positive on the front and a couple of them on the rear. The cost will be increased understeer at high speed too, but this is gravel racing, and the handbrakew is there for a reason. Use it at all times while you know you're riding on a stable car too.

And the accel. diff on these cars must remain blocked regardless your initial feelings. Open it only on very slippery conditions. You may reduce the decel. diff a couple of clicks if you feel like, but I wouldn't advise it under most circumstances, specially on those cars that don't like sliding too much and are not particularly stable under braking even with positive toe in applied on both axix (Stratos).

Great info, cheers.
 
Night stages haven’t really been a part of the WRC since the mid-90s, basically since David Richards got ahold of the sport and switched everything to service parks and cloverleafs in the hope of becoming TV-friendly.
In recent years some rallies have brought a few night stages back here and there, but it’s nothing like it was decades ago.
 
Back