Driving Force Pro Pedal Problems

  • Thread starter Arwin
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I would imagine they can tell how long it's been since it was manufactured by the serial number, but there is no way for them to know how long that paticular unit set on a shelf before you bought it.

All you can do is tell them it's still under warranty & see what they say.

Mine was just a month old when they replaced my pedals.
 
thnx.. did u recieve a whole new package (wheel+pedals) or just pedals, ill call tomarrow and see what they say. if it is past warranty they say i can do it for a fee. luckily i got my dfp for $70 because it was mislabeled at best buy=D
 
burninthc
thnx.. did u recieve a whole new package (wheel+pedals) or just pedals, ill call tomarrow and see what they say. if it is past warranty they say i can do it for a fee. luckily i got my dfp for $70 because it was mislabeled at best buy=D
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I only got the pedals.
I hope it works out.
 
Just want to say thanks to Arwin, and to ppith for the photos on page 1 of this thread.

My pedals developed the problem after about 2 months, so I followed the instructions, and voila, all sorted.

Although I was a bit aprehensive, it's just as easy as you guys said.

So, Thanks guys!
 
pinkertonpunk
Ever since I followed this threads advice and "fixed" my pedals, I have the ones that are plastic inside, they worked for 10 minutes then I put them away for the night. Now ever since, they don't work at all. In fact, when I plug them in now, the steering wheel even stops working. I used super glue to glue the plastic balls into their slots, and then taped the wires down. I was amazed how well this fix worked, but now I am at a loss. I tried calling Logitech yesterday before working on the pedals, but they basically told me off. What did I break guys? I am already going through GT4 withdrawls.
Thanks,
Colin
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1212. DUDE that sux maybe the superglue f@#$ed it up. I have nightmares about having no DFP. Ill take a lap 4 U OOY OOY!!!!!
 
keross1ve
I bought this wheel, and am having the same problem, plus a problem with the wheel itself. I called logitech and they said I need the receipt, so I need someone to REALLY help me out and send me a copy of their receipt through fax or scan. I would greatly appreciate someones help, and am willing to paypal $5-$10 for a receipt, hopefully dated from dec 04 to march 05 I guess.

contact: PM or keross1ve@hotmail.com
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Ive had a poor experience in calling Logitech.
I experienced pedal problem, so I called them 10/25/05. They asked me to fax my receipt, so I did. I waited a couple weeks, and after getting no response, I called them again. They asked me to re-fax my proof of purchase, so I did.
They also told me that the pedals were on back-order. How can this be if THEY are the manufacturer?
Anyway, almost 2 months later, and Im still getting the same song and dance, that they are on backorder, with no date in sight. Is 2+ months an acceptable time for a company to not honor their warranty, or offer some kind of replacement?

After my last phone call to Logitech, I decided to email them, thru another department, detailing my issue and the response Ive had thus far from Logitech. The website said I would have a reply in 24 hours. 3 days and counting....:(
 
i tell you what i wish i knew about this thread when i first bought the wheel! i couldnt wait to pick up my copy of gt4 and the wheel the day it came out. anyway id been enjoying it for 2 or 3 weeks when the pedals starting playing up (great in the middle of a race) P*SSED OFF i called the place i bought it from and they told me i could exchange it for another, not happy i took it back and got another wheel. 1 week later SAME PROBLEM!!! :crazy: :grumpy: so i had a look on the net and found out it was a common problem :yuck: when i took this one back i asked them if this is a common problem "theres no problems" they said ARRRGGG!!! so they gave me another wheel (3RD ONE!!!!!!) everything seemed fine but a month down the track same problem. i was about to explode! i took it back and they tested it. i went back there later on and they told me that it was fine and there was nothing wrong with it!!!!!!!!!!!! :ill: :yuck: i demanded my money back and i havent had a wheel since. pretty p*ss poor logitech normally you make good products. its a real pain in the ass because the game is so much more enjoyable with the wheel. if i were to play russian roulette and buy another one how would i know id be buying the updated model?
 
This is what I exactly need, if some mod sees this, you could close my thread.

I know I should've searched, sorry for being to lazy to do it, I know I'm dumb now and that the search button nreally works.

I've been arrogant. Anyway I'll start reading this thread now:)

Edit: Well it works now again dont ask me why, I've pushed the pedals inward a bit and outward I took it upside down then recalibrated it. I dont think the problem will be gone for long but now it works again....:)
 
Pedel2.jpg

OK This is the type I have. Now, I see everyone talking about the "pots", what are these? Also, how would I know if there are in the right place or not?
EDIT: OK I opened my pedals up today, and they look exactly the same as that picture. Nothing is out of place, or anything like that. Could it be that the wires are messed up, or what else could be the problem?
 
I've been checking this thread since it started, and I have done to my DFP everything and anything that it has been suggested. Problem right now is that still have problems with it. Right now the pedals, just go "death" and start up all of a sudden. Not sure what else to do, short of replace the pedals with a "non-Logitech" alternative.

Did anybody have heard anything extreme to fix this issue. Still fell stupid buying such an expensive piece of crap! :dunce:
 
Register one more disgruntled driver right here.

I first noticed the problem with mine one year and one week after purchase (thankyou Logitech for standing [sitting?] behind a steering wheel for twice as long as most people support, say, a printer). One interesting thing I found, though, is that their warranty only covers replacement units for the remainder of the original warranty period. I thought you got a new warranty. Ah well.

I took up the shop's offer and had the whole thing (wheel) replaced with a new one. Hopefully [for the sake of model changes] it's not an old model which had been sitting with my original unit for a year.

Now I've got a quiet new wheel with firm buttons and tight pedals.
 
Just as an update, being one of the first out there with this wheel (and the pedal problem including fix), I'd just thought it'd be fun to post that more than two years later (and nearly two years after my little fix in which I did nothing but pull a bit more cord into the base of the pedal), the wheel is still going strong. :)

This is where it currently hangs out:

playseat3.jpg


I think the upshift bug may be coming up soon though. I have had once or twice that I wasn't sure whether I shifted up twice or the wheel. In which case I'll probably use that as an excuse to use the stick more. ;) (but I"ll obviously also use Werner's fix for this problem)
 
Thank the GT gods for this thread. I was in the middle of the Formula GT champ series when I noticed my brake was sticking on and slowing the car down. I opened up the pedal box and ended up using a pair of pliers to crimp the loose connections and then I duct taped the pods down to the plastic to keep them from lifting. It was the pods tendency to roll upwards that caused my brakes to stick... Works fine now....
 
Another happy customer. It's hard to believe that it is that easy fix, but it works.

I would like to add that Logitech Customer Care is very cooperative, so call them before you crack open your pedals. When I called they offered me a OWC (Out of Warranty Cost), and the deal is they will send you a new wheel sytem for 1/2 the price of your wheel ($60 for the DFP). You don't even need to send them your old wheel. The only trade off is the new wheel comes with a 30day warranty instead of the 1yr. So technically you could make up an excuse for it being broken and they will send a new one. I might acually do it and give a friend the new one as a gift. Hopefully mine doesn't break beyond repair because i doubt they will do it twice.

As yet another option (and sorry if this is repeat information from previous posts, Don't feel like reading all the posts) you can buy refurbished wheels off http://www.justdeals.com but i didn't check the prices on those.

But these are only if your wheel is beyond the unscrew and tape fix, which is so easy!
 
Exactly what should I be taping down? Because I've used tape for more than a year now, to the point where I basically have everything in the base taped down, and I'm still having the problem.
 
FuryX21
Exactly what should I be taping down? Because I've used tape for more than a year now, to the point where I basically have everything in the base taped down, and I'm still having the problem.
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After a couple of days of use, I had the 'sticky' brake pedal problem with a REVB (metal pots) unit i.e. the brake indicator in GT4 was registering without any pressure on the pedal. To fix (so far so good) I taped the pots so that they were fixed in positon. From what I can tell from reading others' posts, taping of wires, etc, is just a way of making sure that the pots themselves do not rotate, which is the key. The pots should be fixed, with the pedals rotating around them - any small rotation in the pots is likely to throw the calibration.

Incidentally, I bought my DFP from Amazon and after getting a $US30 rebate for signing up for an Amazon Visa, paid just $US69. Sure beats paying $NZ349 (currently about $US215) which is what they retail for here.

Update (21 Aug):
Turned out taping wasn't enough to keep the pots in a fixed position - the problem with the brake pedal returned after a few days of use (the last thing I needed in M34 was sticky brakes!). So I disassembled and:
- tightened the connectors of the wires to the pots;
- wedged paper between the pots to stop any lateral movement;
- stuck Blu-Tack on the little metal tabs on the pots which fit into plastic recesses in the body of the unit (and presumably stop the pots from rotating - but the tabs were too loose in the recesses, so I Blu-Tacked);
- and retaped the pots.

All of these remedies are mentioned in previous posts, so thanks to the individuals concerned.

After a week of fairly vigorous use (including knocking off M34!), everything is good.

I'm more convinced than ever that the key is to make sure that the pots cannot rotate in their housing. If the above steps don't hold in the long term, I'll probably resort to gluing the pots in place.
 
I had the same problem but i was lucky to get a brand new DFP and this one works good so far. I had to wait over 2 months to get a new one but it was worth it=)

👍
 
I've been reading these problems and trying to fix my dfp for a while. Finally I did it and have no more problems whatsoever. It's been about 3 weeks now since I fixed it. Usually the problem would happen withing a few minutes.

Here's what I did:
1. Open pedals
2. Write down what color wires go to the pins connected to the pots and their location.
3. Cut wires from the crimped connector (the crimped connector is what gets loose through using the pedals).
4. Most important step.. strip the wires and solder them directly to the pins on the pots following the color scheme they were originally connected with. You may also decide to clean your pots at this time too.
5. Carefully re-assemble the pedals.

That's all there is to it. No more problems, no more loose connections with the lousy crimped connectors. No need for elaborate taping, blu tack, etc. The problem is in the connections, similar to a cold solder joint on a circuit board.

Disclaimer: Attempt this at your own risk. It will void your warranty. My pedals are long past the warranty period, so I had nothing to loose.
 
I just bought a DFP not more than a few weeks ago, and yesterday when I was racing the brake was acting up (when I wasn't touching it at all) and one time when I was rounding the superspeedway on lap 60 of 100, already two laps down from the leader, the brake went to FULL ON with NO DRIVER INPUT!!

I thought that I would share this with everyone, that the problem is happening with the most recently made units. I'm not sure what I am going to do about it yet.

thanks for this thread though.
 
The key is to solder the wire connections at the potentiometers. These poor crimped connections have resistance in them, and they should be gold plated or have a better connector, but soldering the wire to the female spade and then the female spade to the male lug will reduce the resistance and SOLVE the pedal spiking problem.
 
sorry to bring this thread back up, but i have to thank you guys for this solution...

My gas pedal was spiking alot and sometimes it would only work after turning the wheel just a little or pressing the brake first...

So i opened it up and boy it was dirty... lots of dirt sticking on the grease etc...

I cleaned the whole thing up, greased everything again, added some extra cord inside, taped the wires to the pots as said, closed it... and wow... worked like a charm. No more spiking and gas pedal is working perfectly....

I was so happy... thanks alot guys....
 
Hi everyone. My solution was the following:
I open it, cut part of the base, and did a lot of mofications. In the end all works just fine, not very pretty, but its the price if you dont have all the right tolls. In the end i concluded that the main thing are the pots. U just have to mantain them solid in one solid position where they wont be able to move 1mm whatsoever. thats it. Here some pictures.
 

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This thread should be stickied :)
very usefull.
I've been having this problem for 2 weeks or so, but last night i really got frustrated. I was racing in the Real Circuits Tours on the infineon raceway and it was the last corner with me in the lead with a bit more than 1 second.
I had to pause the game several times before during this race because the brake came on slightly, but now suddenly the break and throttle started to go from full on to full off and back on repeatedly and i had no control left what soever. And if i hit start the throttle would cause the race to continue immediately. So i lost the race in the last corner :(

So i opened it up today and expected it to be dirty as hell, but it was surprisingly clean, except for some minor dust.
My solution is to get thin peace of cardboard and put it between the pots.
I got it from the piece in the Lay's chips that makes the paper with the code on a bit more thick (you can win laptops, yay). I actually cut it in half and put both pieces between the pots.

My guess is that the pots interfere with each other due to them moving to close to each other, but I'm not an expert :)
 
I did not have any problems with the brake pedal, but the gas pedal kept spiking. Stomping on the floor next to the pedal set would open the throttle. I used DeoxIT and tightened the crimp connectors instead of soldering. Although the pots seemed loose even when in their slots, I did not have to use tape.

If I had to do it again (I have two DFPs), I would use gloves. The grease is very messy stuff and gets everywhere.
 
Thanks for this thread. I pulled out my DFP this winter in anticipation for GT5P (Japanese) version, but once I started playing I too had problems with my throttle. I started to think it was the wheel and was about to give up on it, so I bought an EX off EBAY and it worked great. When I heard the update was going to have 2P I thought maybe there is an answer somewhere for my beloved DFP. I used the temp fix of unplug/replug, but that just sucks when you have a close race, so I searched an found this thread and in just 15min had it up and running and so far no problems. I did the pull through more cord, tape down, crimp down all clamps tighter, and added spacer between pots. So far so good. Big Thanks.:)

EDIT-Still working after 3 days have not had to unplug/replug once, also was able to get a 214mph on oval in Ford GT. All my times are faster now, this is how it should be.
 
I just got my DFP out of the attic yesterday and tried GT$.... I was having the brake issue . I took the pedals apart and cut the wires off the terminal clips and soldered them directly to the pots. As I reassembled , I took a small piece of foam nd pushed it down between the pots, then routed the wiring over the foam between the pots. I put it all back together and it works great.
 
Here is my wiring drawing....
DFPwiring.jpg


I cut my wiring loose and soldered the wires to the pots, then pushed a small piece of foam down between the pots. I then routed the wiring between the pots ,finished routing the wiring, and reassembled the pedals. Works great.....
 
I just fixed mine...(was having similar brake staying on issue w/GT4). I removed the wiring & pots, clipped the wiring aloose and discarded the terminal connectors. I soldered the wiring straight to the pots. I laid the pots on their backs with the connectors facing toward each other. (see pic) be sure that the pot with the white wire goes on the brake pedal and the green wire goes to the throttle.
DFPwiring.jpg

I then reassembled and pushed a small piece of foam down between the pots to help them stay snug. I then routed the wiring thru the small gap between the pots and thru the wire routing guides and then put the unit back together. It works great and only took a few minutes.....
 

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