Engine Overhaul & Restore Body Rigidity

  • Thread starter zorrofox
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zorrofox

zorrofox

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Can anyone tell me at what point in a car's lifecycle do the above actions become necessary? At the moment I'm being quoted 500,000Cr for each for my Zonda R and as far as I can tell the engine's not down on power. As far as body rigidity goes I've no idea, I'm usually hanging on to the controller for dear life with that Zonda R. Does anyone know anything about these options?
 
"probably...about...like". No offence but is this absolutely the case or are you surmising? My Zonda's only driven 555.5 miles but it's telling me I need to spend a million to put things right. Does the damage incurred not matter, irrespective of the mileage? Bob drives my Zonda quite often you see. Bob is not a good driver.
 
zorrofox
"probably...about...like". No offence but is this absolutely the case or are you surmising? My Zonda's only driven 555.5 miles but it's telling me I need to spend a million to put things right. Does the damage incurred not matter, irrespective of the mileage? Bob drives my Zonda quite often you see. Bob is not a good driver.
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Like I said, the options for body rigidity come up the moment you drive the car. You don't need it until you have put a few thousand miles on it. My Minolta has 3000 miles on it and I still don't need to put it. As for engine, you need to do it when oil changes don't restore the HP back to maximum, and that too is about the same distance. As for me using vague words, reason for that is because the whole concept behind that is is so vague as well. I have only done chassis one once and that was for my Kaira ZZII and didn't change anything.
 
I've been grinding an X1 in b-spec endurance races, and the HP seemed to get up to 1556, max. Now it's reached, I think around 8000 km on it, and the HP's started slowly going down. So I think around 10 000 km might be a good time to overhaul the engine.

edit: so I guess that's about 6000 miles.
 
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I have found (after extensive testing) that with regular oil changes the engine starts dropping power just short of 5,000km (3,100mi) but after testing this I have also found that after 10,000km (6,200mi) the engine has lost ~5% of peak power (tuned or untuned makes no difference).
So my advice and my personal opinion is; After purchasing a car just complete regular oil changes until you reach 10,000km (6,200mi) then do an engine overhaul (rebuild) and start the process again!
I have found that doing the Body Rigidity at the same time is not a bad idea. So when you reach 10,000km (6,200mi) complete both and Engine and Chassis Overhaul. 1 million credits after that amount of driving is nothing on what you have earned either!
 
Ok guys, thanks very much for this. Never-one's right, this is a bit vague in the game but you've all cleared it up for me. The Zonda's got a fair distance to go before I'll be spending that kind of money.
 
My FGT had about 1500 miles when i bought it from the UCD. Because it is driven a lot it now has 7000 miles on it. It was down to 861 bhp and a oil change took it up to 905 bhp which I new was nowhere near maximum. So I decided to fork out 500000 for an engine overhaul and it took it up to 936 bhp, so I would say that 6000 miles is probably a good time to do an engine overhaul and they do work. I haven't noticed any decrease in handling so I haven't forked out for the rigidity.
 
My brand new M3 completed only two races and is now at 46km. I had a few light touches with AI cars, but that's it. Motor is fine, but rigidity could already be repaired for around 45.000.
 
Bob's FGT has 10k on it and an oil change is all it needs to get back to 916.....
 
I think the cost of both the engine overhaul and body rigidity restoring depend from the car itself, not from how many miles a car had or how badly it got it. I remember when I bought my first car (Civic-Premium) and checked GT Auto it asked the same amount of money for they body rigidity restore as it does now, after 'bout 500 km.
 
I had about 3k miles on my Minolta at which point oil changes didn't bring back the previous max HP anymore. I drove it to about 3700 miles, and the HP was down by 30 or so after oil changes, and it dropped much more quickly between changes. I gave it an engine rebuild and it's all good now. I gave it a chassis restore at the same time mostly because it seemed like the right thing to do and B-Spec guys seemed to be spinning around a bit more than normal.
 
So basically nobody knows exactly how it works. All we know for certain is that it's just a feature that sucks up your hard grinded credits.

I am yet to use either of them. Oil change is almost always enough to boost up the car for at least one or two races.
 
Jashmid
So basically nobody knows exactly how it works. All we know for certain is that it's just a feature that sucks up your hard grinded credits.

I am yet to use either of them. Oil change is almost always enough to boost up the car for at least one or two races.
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Not really...

Engine Overhaul completely dismantles your engine, cleans up the parts and assembles it back together again. It's like giving your engine a very expensive wash up basically.

Body Rigidity knocks all of the kinks due to long term use. It's getting back the frame to it's original condition which gives optimal aerodynamics. Ie, better airflow and grip.

It maybe expensive, but considering 1 million more is not much on the Formula GT that's used than buying it new. You do the Math! :dopey:
 
Oh come on people. How can you be complaining about money in a game where you can let a computer driver win millions while you sleep or do other things. I made 7 mil yesterday by Bobs hands. The stuff just flows like water.

This is a huge change coming from Forza3 where you had to race for every penny.

Plus, like people mentioned earlier, you don't need to restore the engine chassis every 5,000 miles or so. Just check your cars milage on the spec page so you can be sure you don't need to drop that kind of cash unnecessarily.
 
blazor1
Not really...

Engine Overhaul completely dismantles your engine, cleans up the parts and assembles it back together again. It's like giving your engine a very expensive wash up basically.

Body Rigidity knocks all of the kinks due to long term use. It's getting back the frame to it's original condition which gives optimal aerodynamics. Ie, better airflow and grip.

It maybe expensive, but considering 1 million more is not much on the Formula GT that's used than buying it new. You do the Math! :dopey:
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That's the assumption we all have. But as I understand from many other threads here, the difference is barely noticeable and certainly not worth the credits compared to a simple oil change.

For instance, if oil change provides 5~10 extra HP for 250 Cr, overhaul give you pretty much the same amount for hell of a lot more Cr. Rigidity restore also barely makes any difference. People are reporting that it provides no more than a few tenth of a second per lap, if any.

There are just too many ambiguous features and settings that nobody understands. All explanations are based on assumptions. Another example, nobody knows what the difference is between "mode 2 and mode 3" in camera pan setting.
 
Jashmid
That's the assumption we all have. But as I understand from many other threads here, the difference is barely noticeable and certainly not worth the credits compared to a simple oil change.

For instance, if oil change provides 5~10 extra HP for 250 Cr, overhaul give you pretty much the same amount for hell of a lot more Cr. Rigidity restore also barely makes any difference. People are reporting that it provides no more than a few tenth of a second per lap, if any.

There are just too many ambiguous features and settings that nobody understands. All explanations are based on assumptions. Another example, nobody knows what the difference is between "mode 2 and mode 3" in camera pan setting.
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I guess the oil changes occur more frequently than overhauling the engine (if you do it anyway...)

I reckon it's only needed if you *really* want to get the fastest lap times, maybe for the online seasonal events where even 10ms means first place.
 
As for prices, I think the maximum for both is half the initial purchase price of the car (so 25K max for each repair for a car that cost 50k to buy) and 500k is the absolute max, meaning no car's repairs cost more than that. These are assumptions though.
 
Jashmid
That's the assumption we all have. But as I understand from many other threads here, the difference is barely noticeable and certainly not worth the credits compared to a simple oil change.

For instance, if oil change provides 5~10 extra HP for 250 Cr, overhaul give you pretty much the same amount for hell of a lot more Cr. Rigidity restore also barely makes any difference. People are reporting that it provides no more than a few tenth of a second per lap, if any.

There are just too many ambiguous features and settings that nobody understands. All explanations are based on assumptions. Another example, nobody knows what the difference is between "mode 2 and mode 3" in camera pan setting.
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Most just don't seem to understand that chassis restore/engine rebuild are only needed resp. are of any effect if the car has driven 5000+ or even 10000 km.

And for the camera pan setting check the stickie'd tut in the photo sub forum. All in all there aren't that many features which nobody understands, you just didn't find the right threads or too many repeat stuff which isn't true.
 
I still say that you never need to do either. You can do the engine overhaul, if you want to, but it's not worth the money on an expensive car. The chassis rebuild is, as far as I can tell, totally unnecessary. Some people say that eventually a car will start spinning out in the middle of a straight on it's own, but I've never seen this happen. Personally, I think their controllers are just broken, or something.
 
My X1 just passed 10,700 km (6600 miles), and the max BHP after oil change is now 1512. The peak was 1556, so it's down only 3%. It hasn't even gone down to the original BHP yet which I think is around 1508? (with oil change)

Think I'm gonna let it get to 20,000 km and see what happens..
 
My X1 B spec enduro car is starting to deteriorate quite badly now.

It's done 12,000 miles, and made only 1437bhp with an oil change after my last Le Mans 24h race. In addition, max speed with Bob behind the wheel is down to 225mph on the Mulsane (40mph down on the 1st LM I ran)... the traction control is flashing most of the way down the straights.

He still won the last 24h race by 140 odd laps though.
 

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