Exeter GT Tuning (Updated with new seasonal setups)

  • Thread starter shaunm80
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Soren Jacquet
Holy BIM BAM 100 blue lines S... Then we canĀ“t see the road hehehe

One quistion more if you go into the suspention and over in brakes and adust the brakes IĀ“m I right if I say they higer the number the more it braks
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Not necessarily, it depends on the car you are tuning. Sometimes, if you set a brake level too high (Front - 7, rear 10) for example, you might find that you will lock up the rears instantly making the car unstable in the braking phase which will cost you a lot of time as you have to come off the brakes in order to get rotation. Sometimes, weaker brakes are more effective as they don't strip the speed from the car in the corners and allow you to carry more speed when you get back on the accelerator.

This is why most of my brake settings are 5/6 or 6/7. It means that I have a average braking point which I can use to control the car into the corner without compromising on exit speed. If you look at my drift tunes, I use 1/8 braking as the fronts hardly have any effect but the rear will nearly certainly pull the car one direction or the other when you brake and turn the front wheels.
 
shaunm80
Not necessarily, it depends on the car you are tuning. Sometimes, if you set a brake level too high (Front - 7, rear 10) for example, you might find that you will lock up the rears instantly making the car unstable in the braking phase which will cost you a lot of time as you have to come off the brakes in order to get rotation. Sometimes, weaker brakes are more effective as they don't strip the speed from the car in the corners and allow you to carry more speed when you get back on the accelerator.

This is why most of my brake settings are 5/6 or 6/7. It means that I have a average braking point which I can use to control the car into the corner without compromising on exit speed. If you look at my drift tunes, I use 1/8 braking as the fronts hardly have any effect but the rear will nearly certainly pull the car one direction or the other when you brake and turn the front wheels.
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Thanks alot my friend , are fooling around with a car I try to tune up, but danm it hard to do
 
shaunm80
@Otaliema and @Bowtie-muscle may have a different theory about brakes to me but I think that what I'm saying is in the ball park of what PD have done with their brake design.
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Brakes can be tricky and depend on driving style, I like easy in approach and tend to brake slightly sooner than others do. But I may have a slightly higher entry speed as I'm not slowing down as much, just earlier if that makes sense. To do this I may not set them as high either, but too high can cause instability and lock up. If the front end is sliding on entry, either you are entering too hot, front end braking too strong or a spring/weight transfer issue. I try and eliminate the first two before readjusting the springs and dampers. If the rear flies out its the same thing. Adjust LSD revel and lower rear braking first, but it could be too hot of an entry or the need for a different line. Higher rear can help entry back influencing rotation, but too high can put you in the litter. Start low and slowly increase is my normal approach. Less can be more sometimes.

Hope it helps and makes sense, still working on my first cup of coffee.
 
Bowtie-muscle
Brakes can be tricky and depend on driving style, I like easy in approach and tend to brake slightly sooner than others do. But I may have a slightly higher entry speed as I'm not slowing down as much, just earlier if that makes sense. To do this I may not set them as high either, but too high can cause instability and lock up. If the front end is sliding on entry, either you are entering too hot, front end braking too strong or a spring/weight transfer issue. I try and eliminate the first two before readjusting the springs and dampers. If the rear flies out its the same thing. Adjust LSD revel and lower rear braking first, but it could be too hot of an entry or the need for a different line. Higher rear can help entry back influencing rotation, but too high can put you in the litter. Start low and slowly increase is my normal approach. Less can be more sometimes.

Hope it helps and makes sense, still working on my first cup of coffee.
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Sounds pretty good to me. Very similar to my theory on how PD have programmed the brakes except you went into more detail about LSD and suspensions tuning. :)
 
Soren Jacquet
Holy BIM BAM 100 blue lines S... Then we canĀ“t see the road hehehe

One quistion more if you go into the suspention and over in brakes and adust the brakes IĀ“m I right if I say they higer the number the more it braks
Click to expand...

shaunm80
@Otaliema and @Bowtie-muscle may have a different theory about brakes to me but I think that what I'm saying is in the ball park of what PD have done with their brake design.
Click to expand...
I think the three of us are in the same part of the field with brakes. I tend to set mine higher then you but that is so you have the power to back off the pedal and still stop.
I use the balance to help with rotation by increasing or decreasing it via high or lower rear settings.
 
I remember that I once set my brakes a little bit too high for a FITT tune and I think someone said that it was like dropping an anchor out the back of the car.. That comment made me laugh but also gave me something to remember when setting up brakes for future FITT cars, I haven't had any negative brake comments since that so I obviously learned pretty quickly how to make my brakes more like car brakes and less like a boat anchor.
 
I remember setting them too low once myself, it was the same comment over and over, brakes felt weak but got the job done barely.
Now I only put crazy numbers on TT tunes like 7/9 or 5/10 and on the really heavy cars 8/10 but that is to swing the back around at the last possbile second. Racing set ups I tend to go 6/4 or 5/3 as you want to kill the speed not swing the back.
 
bad pic but I can live with it
 

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