F1 2013 Logitech Driving force DFGT PS3 settings.

O

OMFGCLAYAIKEN

2
Netherlands
Netherlands
OMFGCLAYAIKEN
Heya there!

I just bought myself a Logitech Driving Force, also known as the DFGT.

I'm enjoying myself with it, but I do have some problems with F1 2013.

I'd really love to see some proper setups, which are stable enough for a new wheelie driver.

Having difficulty on the corners, as my steering is terrible at the moment, flying out of most of the corners now, I know practice'll be a good lesson but settings are important aswel.

I have a question about the wheel weight though, it might be simple but what should I chose for not turning to much degree for quiet heavy corners. Is it rather heavy, or just really lose?

I'm hoping to get some answers, thanks in advance!!
 
I was in a similar position as yours went I started out, some research went a long ways, as playing with the 'default' wheel settings is... just not right. Here are the threads I checked out here on GTP to get a rough start.

https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/going-from-gt6-to-f1-2013.295207/#post-9416173 - Good settings to start at, then tweak to your personal preference.
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/f1-2013-dfgt-problems.301530/ - Issue regarding steering 'feel' and how 'understeer' may actually be pushing tires past their 'slip-angle', regarding Formula cars.

I suppose you could thank @Awong124 for his responses in those threads, lol. I started off with his settings of 'everything' at 0% except wheel linearity at 40% with his 10% FFB with wheel/enviro at 100%. I've mostly keep all those settings the same, but turned linearity up to 50% for a closer 1:1 ratio between my wheel and in-game steering.

Once those settings are figured out for you, the rest is all about seat-time. Don't drive them (F1 machines) like street cars, drive them like Formula cars, they can do things you'd think they couldn't, it'll become a matter of faith in vehicle and ability, rather than outright speed or grip.
 
I tried a lot of different linearity settings. I thought that 50% felt fine, but just a touch too slow so I turned it down to 40%. It seems that every game Codemasters makes, the wheel settings are all different. The settings for F1 2012 don't work well for F1 2013. But the settings I use for F1 2013 happens to be the same as the settings I used for F1 2010. Other than F1 2010 and F1 2013 settings being the same for me, I used different settings for every F1 game.
 
Ok, there's a lot of these threads so I'll jump in here.

I have one tiny issue, my DFGT does not quite match the on-screen wheel.
no matter what combination of settings I use, the on-screen wheel is always turned a few (5) degrees further than my DFGT.

I'm running all the recommended settings as linked above for linearity (tried 40%, but 50% feels better for me)
10% FFB, 100% weight and environmental effects, and 0% on everything else.

Am i missing something.?
 
It IS an animation of the steering angle

if you change the saturation settings it's possible to achieve full lock on the steering with my DFGT barely off centre.
the animation follows steering angle.

I'd like the animation to be able to match the wheel in front of me.
As such cockpit view is annoying and off-putting due to the drivers hands being in a different place to mine.
there should be an option to remove the drivers arms and animated wheel for those playing with a wheel
 
Robbks
It IS an animation of the steering angle

if you change the saturation settings it's possible to achieve full lock on the steering with my DFGT barely off centre.
the animation follows steering angle.

I'd like the animation to be able to match the wheel in front of me.
As such cockpit view is annoying and off-putting due to the drivers hands being in a different place to mine.
there should be an option to remove the drivers arms and animated wheel for those playing with a wheel
Click to expand...

OMFGCLAYAIKEN
Heya there!

I just bought myself a Logitech Driving Force, also known as the DFGT.

I'm enjoying myself with it, but I do have some problems with F1 2013.

I'd really love to see some proper setups, which are stable enough for a new wheelie driver.

Having difficulty on the corners, as my steering is terrible at the moment, flying out of most of the corners now, I know practice'll be a good lesson but settings are important aswel.

I have a question about the wheel weight though, it might be simple but what should I chose for not turning to much degree for quiet heavy corners. Is it rather heavy, or just really lose?

I'm hoping to get some answers, thanks in advance!!
Click to expand...

I have a G27 & DFGT

The DFGT Auto sets to 250 degrees for F1 2013/2014, with everything at zero the animation and steering are 1 to 1. Honestly this is how it should be. The Advanced Steering Settings can be used to make driving very responsive F1 cars much easier, once you get better reduce the amount of advanced settings steering assist used to zero gradually.

Steering Saturation
Increasing Steering saturation makes the animated driver & wheels get to lock faster than the user, this reduces the amount of steering input is required to get to full lock, the higher the number the animation will get to lock while you are not as far turned on the wheel, high settings will greatly reduce the amount of degrees the user can turn the wheel before the animation arrives at full lock. It can go so far as to make a wheel in 900 degree mode 1 to 1 with the animation working as if in 250 mode inside 250 degrees. The G27 will switch over to 900 degree mode in F1 but I cant get my DFGT to do it.


IMPORTANT
If you are not having issues with the animation arriving at full lock at the same time as the user this should be at zero as increasing the setting will make the steering overly responsive and reduce the steering input available to the user. Only use this if the animation doesn't get tot full lock when you arrive at the same angle on the wheel.

Steering Linearity
Steering Linearity works similar to an Akerman bar, the amount of steering input to get to lock stays the same but, the initial response is slower and gradually ramped up to 1 to 1 at full lock. Increasing the value reduces the initial response more and more. This will slow the animation so at first its lagging behind you, but catches up when you get to full lock.


Helping New Drivers
Steering Linearity can also be used to make the steering less twitchy and easier to keep straight as an alternative to using deadzone or used with deadzone so a smaller deadzone can be used.

Too much deadzone will cause the same problem its being used to fix if too much is used. The trick is to add deadzone, until it stops helping, then use the Linearity to smooth it out & reduce the amount of deadzone used.

Dont touch saturation unless your having issues with the animation not arriving at full lockwhen you do on your wheel.

I think these should be used for new drivers who want to make the car easier to track straight and less twitchy

Steering Deadzone @ 0.25%
Steering Saturation @ 0%
Steering Linearity @ 2%

Fixing an off calibrated wheel
If with everything at zero the animation doesn't hit full lock when your wheel is turned the required amount (the animation is behind the user) increase the Steering Saturation setting until the animation and user arrive at full lock at the same time.

If the Steering Saturation is anything other than zero, use the Steering Linearity to align the initial response to the shorter amount of steering input required through the saturation setting.
 
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Sorry to bring back up such an old thread but now that I have a wheel and am trying to use it, I wanted to ask here instead of make a new thread.

Going off some advice from here (or was it the other thread?), I have the Steering Linearity at 40% under "Advanced Wheel Settings" (which has made a massive difference in the steering), but now I can't figure out how to set up the Pedals sensitivity as I just did the steering wheel.
 

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