F40 horrible!
- Thread starter Sydbom
- 153 comments
- 24,663 views
- 83
- United States
- eddierome
- 1,368
- GTP-Stormbringer
i think GT5s F40 was much easier.
The car is pretty useless with its stock weight ratio. adding ballast does tame it, but then it does lose a bit of its nature.
but i do enjoy driving it. It takes good throttle control to get some grip through the corners.
It takes skill to drive, and it wont win you many races, just because it will spin when you least expect it.
Downhill uturns, like the one in deepforest will almost always 180 the car. you have to be really slow at entry, the car shines when exiting corners. bellisimo!
That snap oversteer is retarded.
The car is pretty useless with its stock weight ratio. adding ballast does tame it, but then it does lose a bit of its nature.
but i do enjoy driving it. It takes good throttle control to get some grip through the corners.
It takes skill to drive, and it wont win you many races, just because it will spin when you least expect it.
Downhill uturns, like the one in deepforest will almost always 180 the car. you have to be really slow at entry, the car shines when exiting corners. bellisimo!
That snap oversteer is retarded.
- 405
- United Kingdom
- foxdylan
Lol , the F40 is the best car to drive in the whole game I find . Abs off , stock everything , traction off . It's amazing.
U have to drive the car
Watch it's weight
Load up the rear prepare for the corners balance the brake the throttling the turbo .
It's hilarious that people think u jump in a car like this and think you whip round a corner at 80mph no sweat
Just lol
U have to drive the car
Watch it's weight
Load up the rear prepare for the corners balance the brake the throttling the turbo .
It's hilarious that people think u jump in a car like this and think you whip round a corner at 80mph no sweat
Just lol
- 98
Since I've never driven an actual F40 (I suspect I'm not alone in this), all I've got to go on is what I've read and heard about it. What I've read and heard describe the car as fantastic as well as terrifying. Since most of us GT6'ers only really drive our game cars in anger, on race tracks. (I wish that GT6 had a go to the shops and get a bit of petrol mode.) Can we really say that the car is incorrectly modeled? From what I've read and heard about the car at speed is a mixture of awe, fear, shock and turbo lag. mostly fear, followed a close second by turbo lag. can it be that lag that makes us spin the car. when I look at the torque and HP distribution graph I can see that the car is unsafe in slow corners around 4500 - 5500 rpm due to turbo activation and increased wheel spin. No? I just drove the car in the game and it's a handful, but I ask you is it any less of a handful in real life on a race track at the speeds we think we can drive?
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- 41
- WV
- Provst01
It never fails to humor me when I go into topics like these that speak of handling characteristics on cars so rare to not only drive (but to actually SEE them in person). Some people are so blindfolded by the way GT's physics are that they actually believe that "if that's how it handles in GT, then that must be how it handles in real life". When the truth is the probability that ANYONE posting with an authoritative response has NEVER even driven or been behind the wheel of one of these amazing super cars we find in ANY console racing title.
Look.., I love the GT series. I've been playing it since the beginning as well. Heck.., I've probably been playing console racing titles longer than some of you have been alive. My first console racing game was Pole Position "with the paddle controllers". However.., there are WITHOUT QUESTION some physics glitches in GT6. Some of these cars that many assume handle "in real life" the way they do in GT are just kidding themselves.
I'm honestly starting to wonder if "some" not all, but "some" cars actually to some extent suffer from the "nose dive braking" issue that we see in the AI cars. I use both a wheel (DFGT) and the DS3 with GT. On several cars I have in my garage I've noticed that when you hit the brakes (not aggressively AND when not turning into your braking).., it's like suddenly the back end of the car is NON EXISTENT. The body roll is WAY overdone, and I've noticed that even with Racing Suspension you still have excessive body roll (even after tuning.., that really needs to be looked at by Polyphony).
Another issue is when taking certain cars up to speed that have a substantial wing already installed. At high speeds it's like the wings are not doing what they're designed for. Some cars (as they are without wing upgrades) should be producing WAY MORE downforce than what is actually being applied by the physics engine.
Yes.., the F40 is a sniveling, snarling, monster that's hell bent on turning your internal organs to mush, BUT..,. I think it's safe to say that if the F40 (along with several other super cars) in this game actually handled in "real life" the way they do in GT.., insurance companies would be refusing to insure these vehicles because people would be losing their lives and taking others with them on a daily basis.
I will say this.., I've been fortunate enough to drive a few Lambos in my lifetime (even the pleasure of a few times around the block in a Testarossa back in the early 90's ).., but not a single Lambo in this game (that I have driven) handles like the real car. It's a console racing title folks trying to "emulate" real world driving. Keep that in mind. However.., I still say that there are certainly some physics glitches in the game that need to be addressed by Kaz.
Look.., I love the GT series. I've been playing it since the beginning as well. Heck.., I've probably been playing console racing titles longer than some of you have been alive. My first console racing game was Pole Position "with the paddle controllers". However.., there are WITHOUT QUESTION some physics glitches in GT6. Some of these cars that many assume handle "in real life" the way they do in GT are just kidding themselves.
I'm honestly starting to wonder if "some" not all, but "some" cars actually to some extent suffer from the "nose dive braking" issue that we see in the AI cars. I use both a wheel (DFGT) and the DS3 with GT. On several cars I have in my garage I've noticed that when you hit the brakes (not aggressively AND when not turning into your braking).., it's like suddenly the back end of the car is NON EXISTENT. The body roll is WAY overdone, and I've noticed that even with Racing Suspension you still have excessive body roll (even after tuning.., that really needs to be looked at by Polyphony).
Another issue is when taking certain cars up to speed that have a substantial wing already installed. At high speeds it's like the wings are not doing what they're designed for. Some cars (as they are without wing upgrades) should be producing WAY MORE downforce than what is actually being applied by the physics engine.
Yes.., the F40 is a sniveling, snarling, monster that's hell bent on turning your internal organs to mush, BUT..,. I think it's safe to say that if the F40 (along with several other super cars) in this game actually handled in "real life" the way they do in GT.., insurance companies would be refusing to insure these vehicles because people would be losing their lives and taking others with them on a daily basis.
I will say this.., I've been fortunate enough to drive a few Lambos in my lifetime (even the pleasure of a few times around the block in a Testarossa back in the early 90's ).., but not a single Lambo in this game (that I have driven) handles like the real car. It's a console racing title folks trying to "emulate" real world driving. Keep that in mind. However.., I still say that there are certainly some physics glitches in the game that need to be addressed by Kaz.
- 41
- WV
- Provst01
I have to say that I think part of the problem (not only with the F-40), but with other vehicles are glitches in the physics engine. I have also noticed that "over sensitive" controls seem to be more of an issue with GT6 than GT5. When I use the DS3 I remap my gas and brake to the R1/R2 triggers. I've noticed (in many vehicles) that this set up in GT6 is considerably more sensitive than in GT5. In some cars (using this set up) if you as much as breath on the triggers you're going to spin and hit a wall. I think Kaz should look into not only the physics glitches, but over sensitive settings for DS3 users.
- 256
- Margate FL USA
- jmii
Same feelings here đź‘Ť
I think ALL the MR (Mid Engine Rear Drive) cars in the game are not properly represented / modeled
After all this is the considered the best, most balanced vehicle layout possible - super cars, Formula 1, Indy Racing all use it. Thus it MUST be better then how the game makes them handle. For example the Elise and the NSX are both well know for being super easy to drive at their limits, but in the game its the opposite - the slightest mistake results in the a spin. At times it feels like the SRF being ON is more realistic, or at least some form of traction control 
I can only really comment on my 350Z since I've tracked it... and in game it feels about right. Out of the box (stock) the Z understeers at speed. Its only oversteers when (shockingly) driven "slowly" or in low grip situations (rain!)
Its a way different car on the track then it is on the street. When driven hard it tends to push due to the staggered tire configuration, IE: the fronts are narrower then the rears thus you have LESS front grip resulting in understeer. However on the street in a slow turn (and lets face it on the street all turns are "slow") its very easy to get the back end out by stomping on the accelerator while turning sharply. This really never happens on the track provided you are driving the properly slow in - fast out line. As you apply throttle the car weight shifts to the rear, it gains grip and powers out nicely. Granted my track time is very limited but it shocked me how quickly the front end washes out and rear sticks 
- 3,603
- London, Ontario
- voodoovaj
One of the issues is that the differential is a BIG part of the handling. Luckily, you can see what the stock diff settings are pretty easily.
It's isn't MR cars in general, it's just some cars and they need proper tuning if upgraded. The F40, stock, is just fine IMHO. Upgrade the suspension and diff, and you're in for some work, but it pays off.
It's isn't MR cars in general, it's just some cars and they need proper tuning if upgraded. The F40, stock, is just fine IMHO. Upgrade the suspension and diff, and you're in for some work, but it pays off.
- 318
- Athens, Greece
The F40 was by far one of the best cars to drive in GT5 and you are calling it crap just because you like race cars that handle like trains due to their slick tyres...
- 5
- United States
- heanshiii
Same feelings here đź‘Ť
I think ALL the MR (Mid Engine Rear Drive) cars in the game are not properly represented / modeled
I can only really comment on my 350Z since I've tracked it... and in game it feels about right. Out of the box (stock) the Z understeers at speed. Its only oversteers when (shockingly) driven "slowly" or in low grip situations (rain!)
I feel the same way about the 350z. The stanard LSD in game feels a little better than the real life VLSD though, but close enough.
- 377
Love the game!
But, just threw away 450.000 in the game on the f40 only to spin out in the first few metres testdriving my new pride and joy!
Its basically totally undriveable!
Tried with a controller since the tailhappy cars are not really possible to drive with the 900 degree dfp, but it was WORSE with that!
Only real lap I could get out of it was with the wheel in 200 degree mode and almost breaking it wringing it out like a madman!!!
And that was also with mods for 70.000+! Soft racing wheels!
Is there any way to get it driveable?!
Turned on traction control and skid recovery but didnt help any!
No way to test a car before buying with my dearly payed time ( ingame money is my work time just like in real life ) makes me want to just stop playing this altogether!
I mean, whats the point?! Slaving away for nothing!
The f40 is now just a 450.000 statue that looks like an f40!
-----------------
UPDATE SOLVED IT:
Well thanks to the other threads about midengined cars behaving very strangely, R8 and stratos,
I SOLVED IT!!!!
Well I dont know the problem but the sollution!
Different tires front and back completely takes away ALL problems!!!
Only tested sports hard in front and sports soft in the back and drove about 15 laps on brands hatch and the car didnt flip around or behaved strangely once!
Instead its now full of adjustability ( if that is a word ) and you can powerslide it fantastically if you want to and REALLY push it to the limit!
BUT.... It lost the crazy turn in, but I can drive it just as fast if you look at the times, maybe a little bit slower, did put in a really fast time yesterday with a suspension tune that was faster but dont remember what tires I had on then.
Gonna find the perfect combination of tires for this cars back and front to make it turn in AND stick to the road!
My guess, the physics engine dont calculate tire width correctly and adjust grip accordingly.... Maybe...
There is a reason Midengined cars have FAT rear tires.
Well, its solved anyway!
Raced my little F40 like the little racer it is! Its great now!
I love how breaking loose the tires with the throttle feels in this game! And how the grip comes back instantly when releasing again
Wow, color me impressed, I was hating the F40 in this game, I tired every tyre and upgrade and even the assists that made it even more annoying to drive. Then I found this thread and I cant believe the change, now with sport hard in the front and sport soft in the back its easy to drive, then I added more horsepower and change the front to racing hard and back to racing soft, the car become so fast and fun to drive, its alive.
Thank you very much and don't listen people who tell you that it was correct before, this clearly was a game bug/problem , the F40 its a car that can bite if you are rough driving it but its not as unpredictable or crazy as the standard setting in this game.
Learn to tune your cars. Suspension, Ballast, Aero, and LSD, along with the transmission all play a part in adjusting a car for maximum performance.
Dropping a turbo or intake system isn't tuning. And note, I placed the transmission at the end of that list. For very good reason. "tuning" doesn't mean just fiddling with the gear ratios. That solves almost nothing in terms of handling.
Real does after all mean real.
Dropping a turbo or intake system isn't tuning. And note, I placed the transmission at the end of that list. For very good reason. "tuning" doesn't mean just fiddling with the gear ratios. That solves almost nothing in terms of handling.
Real does after all mean real.
- 377
So, since you speak as you know, please explain why the F40 handles so much better with hard sport tires in the front and soft in the back than with racing soft tyres in the front and back (even after 2 or 3 laps).
To my its stupid that a car performs much better with soft tyres just in the back than with them in all 4 wheels.
Because you're using the tires to compensate for problems that are usually handled better by adjusting the suspension. The softs in back are the compensation.
Alternatively, the sport hards are being used to compensate by allowing them to skid a bit. Either way, I suppose one could call that tuning, but I wouldn't. It's just a work around for solving the real issues.
Alternatively, the sport hards are being used to compensate by allowing them to skid a bit. Either way, I suppose one could call that tuning, but I wouldn't. It's just a work around for solving the real issues.
- 1,094
- The DOGG house
- WAGG__da__DOGG
This is the only car that has done this to me so far. Tried it out at Apricot Hill and Brands Hatch and the back end kicks out and the car starts spinning the moment I start to turn the wheel. I bought another one but have not yet driven it. I suppose I could have made it a lot worse trying to tune the problem out. I gave up after an hour lol.
Well different strokes. I actually haven't driven the GT yet, so I'm not sure whether the stock tune is solid or not. I did drive it as one of two favorite cars in GT5 extensively, and except for the racecar version, I found tuning to be a necessary part of getting them to handle properly when pushed to their limits. Even the racercars benefited from some tweaking. Properly tuned,
I found in GT5 that a bit of toe OUT was beneficial, although I can't say yet here...hmm..maybe I should haul the beast onto a track and see what all the kerfuffle is. I'll let you know.
EDIT: So I took the 15th aniv ford gt out and it behaved well... as long as I drove like I was on a public road. The weight distribution makes the front end swing around the back too easily to push it beyond "fast" highway driving.
I tried the race hard suspension, and it improved handling over stock, but the car was still prone to spinout from the most minor distractions
Swapped for a fully suspension and set the starting numbers to those of the race hard package. I've been trying to fix it without resorting the ballast, but I've only managed to get lap times around 45 sec at brands hatch (the smaller one). It still spins out too easily if I try to push it. Or maybe I'm just expecting too much, idk.
Tweaked some more at Apricot hill. added about 100Kg of ballast to bring the weight dist closer to 50:50. Adjusted toe, spring rate, camber etc. Was able to do repeated laps at about 1:19. If you like I'll share the full tune with you. let me know
As is it'll stlil spin out if you don't feather your throttle, but it's much more stable than the stock settings.
The "normal" GTs you buy from the dealership are probably an easier haul, since you can buy an aero package for them, whereas the aniv car doesn't allow it. I just don't want to spend the game cash right now to test it.
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- 104
- England
Weight is 60/40 Cross% is left/Right.
USA model with full tank is 3001lb, with a 61/39 split.
This car was 60/40 IRL, and was made as light as possible, so IMHO removing 200KG and adding 200KG and making it 50/50 is very unrealistic, as is running different tyres front/rear. if you want to keep this car anywhere near realistic, Id stick with LSD and suspension tuning.
USA model with full tank is 3001lb, with a 61/39 split.
This car was 60/40 IRL, and was made as light as possible, so IMHO removing 200KG and adding 200KG and making it 50/50 is very unrealistic, as is running different tyres front/rear. if you want to keep this car anywhere near realistic, Id stick with LSD and suspension tuning.
- 379
- PNW
- Zenmervolt
And how many times did you take those Lambos onto a track and drive them as fast as you possibly could with zero fear of the consequences of a crash since you could just hit "reset" and take everything back to the way it was when you started?
Thought so.
There is a bloody big difference between how a car feels on the street (where, no matter what the average driver may think, it's just plain not possible to safely find the limit of any sports car, let alone a Lamborghini) at 7/10 or 8/10 and how it feels on a track when it's being wrung out at 10/10.
Even shows like Top Gear don't have the presenters driving the cars at 10/10 (as is exemplified when Stig sets a time in some Diesel Vauxhaul and the presenters can't match it despite having superior machinery). The drifting the presenters do looks pretty, but it's not pushing the car very hard in reality.
I agree that no console simulator is ever going to replicate the feel exactly (there's too much feedback through the seat for even a sim with theoretically perfect physics to completely mimic reality), but the discrepancies most people are claiming are far more likely due to the fact that almost no-one even drives a real car at 8/10, let alone 10/10 on a track.
I think ALL the MR (Mid Engine Rear Drive) cars in the game are not properly represented / modeled
"Better" does NOT mean "easier to drive." It never has.
Mid-engine and rear-drive has ALWAYS been known as a twitchy setup, much more prone to snap-oversteer than other setups. This is because all the weight is positioned in the middle of the car and there is much less polar inertia. The benefit is that it allows the car to pivot faster in response to steering input. For racing cars, that's a huge benefit because it allows the driver to get a car set for a corner faster. On the street, at low speeds (and yes, even 85-90 mph is "low speed" for most of these sorts of cars) this also makes them feel better to the average driver. However, MR cars have always carried the caveat of snap-oversteer at the limit when driven hard.
It's worth noting that the NSX had its suspension geometry changed to prevent snap-oversteer issues that drivers of early cars complained about (this also had the benefit of reducing wear on the rear tires). A quick search from people who actually track their Elises also reveals many reports of snap oversteer. I think that there are a lot of people who mistake "driving at 8/10 on public roads" as being "the limit" for a car which results in average people talking about a car being "easy" at the limit when the fact is that they have no idea what the limit is.
When an experienced racing driver describes a car as "easy to drive" that's not the same thing as "benign"." What the driver means is that the car is predictable. If you lift the throttle at such and such a rate in a corner of such and such a radius at such and such a speed, the car will always start to spin.
It's also worth noting that racing drivers are a LOT better than the average driver. Their definition of "easy" is NOT the same as ours. It's sort of like a law professor I used to have. He'd assign 12-hour take-home exams and tell the class "this is a simple problem, you should be able to do it in 90 minutes, go out, have lunch, see a movie, then come back and spend 30 minutes revising and you're done." I didn't meet a single classmate who did that; all of us spent the full 12 hours furiously working and researching the problem. Now I have more experience, I can see that the problems likely did only take an experienced attorney 90 minutes plus a half-hour for revisions, and probably were "easy" from the professor's point of view, but just because they were "easy" for experienced attorneys doesn't make them "easy" for the rest of the population. So too are the assertions that "Car X is easy to drive at the limit because Mario Andretti/Sebastian Vettel/Striling Moss/whoever said so."
- 11,332
- The 51st state of america
- sparkytooth50001
I used to take advantage of it's hugely long gears in GT5 to keep it docile, it's a very intense machine to drive.
- 71
- Torino
- karma996
I setup the car with correct weight and gear ratios and make a "one lap war " like Top Gear.
it's all about skill ... and i 'm not the fastest driver
You can use google transl
http://www.gtitalia.it/le-auto/1620-masterpiece-le-supercar-degli-anni-90-a.html
I cant edit my post...
it's all about skill ... and i 'm not the fastest driver
You can use google transl
http://www.gtitalia.it/le-auto/1620-masterpiece-le-supercar-degli-anni-90-a.html
I cant edit my post...
Last edited by a moderator:
- 56
- England
- zooburner
Love the game!
But, just threw away 450.000 in the game on the f40 only to spin out in the first few metres testdriving my new pride and joy!
Its basically totally undriveable!
Tried with a controller since the tailhappy cars are not really possible to drive with the 900 degree dfp, but it was WORSE with that!
Only real lap I could get out of it was with the wheel in 200 degree mode and almost breaking it wringing it out like a madman!!!
And that was also with mods for 70.000+! Soft racing wheels!
Is there any way to get it driveable?!
Turned on traction control and skid recovery but didnt help any!
No way to test a car before buying with my dearly payed time ( ingame money is my work time just like in real life ) makes me want to just stop playing this altogether!
I mean, whats the point?! Slaving away for nothing!
The f40 is now just a 450.000 statue that looks like an f40!
-----------------
UPDATE SOLVED IT:
Well thanks to the other threads about midengined cars behaving very strangely, R8 and stratos,
I SOLVED IT!!!!
Well I dont know the problem but the sollution!
Different tires front and back completely takes away ALL problems!!!
Only tested sports hard in front and sports soft in the back and drove about 15 laps on brands hatch and the car didnt flip around or behaved strangely once!
Instead its now full of adjustability ( if that is a word ) and you can powerslide it fantastically if you want to and REALLY push it to the limit!
BUT.... It lost the crazy turn in, but I can drive it just as fast if you look at the times, maybe a little bit slower, did put in a really fast time yesterday with a suspension tune that was faster but dont remember what tires I had on then.
Gonna find the perfect combination of tires for this cars back and front to make it turn in AND stick to the road!
My guess, the physics engine dont calculate tire width correctly and adjust grip accordingly.... Maybe...
There is a reason Midengined cars have FAT rear tires.
Well, its solved anyway!
Raced my little F40 like the little racer it is! Its great now!
I love how breaking loose the tires with the throttle feels in this game! And how the grip comes back instantly when releasing again
It is different, but I kinda like it.. it's not the ideal car to throw at the last split second into a corner though and expect it to stick, you have to plan braking and acceleration ahead. in GT5 also it was a bit of a handful, but great fun if you are willing to learn its quirks
Z
