Fanatec ClubSport Pedal V2 - Tuning

H

HoneyBadger

211
United States
Va
I just ordered the CS Pedals V2. Anyone know if the stiffer springs can be purchased without ordering the entire $50 V1 tuning kit? Any opinions on whether or not stiffer springs are needed with the V2s?

Thanks đź‘Ť

PS - Also ordered the CS wheel base with BMW rim. Let the fun begin :)
 
I'll have an update on this in a few days. I bought a couple of the Cannon F1 springs from his F1 pedal kit. Bought the super hard brake spring and going to use that on my V2s to try and at least replicate my perfect pedal.
 
The only pedal that you would consider changing the spring on is the gas. And, for me, I needed to put a stiffer spring on, it was to weak for my taste. The Brake and clutch have much different mechanisms than the V1.
 
HoneyBadger
I just ordered the CS Pedals V2. Anyone know if the stiffer springs can be purchased without ordering the entire $50 V1 tuning kit? Any opinions on whether or not stiffer springs are needed with the V2s?

Thanks đź‘Ť

PS - Also ordered the CS wheel base with BMW rim. Let the fun begin :)
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awesome! you will love your new gear.

Of course, feeling of gear is very personal. I used the lower viscosity oil in the spring damper and did not change anything else. I did adjust the accelerator adjustable spring nut to provide a little bit more resistance.

Are the CSPV1 and V2 springs identical?
IIRC, the V1 tuning kit has been discontinued and Thomas said he is coming out with a V2 tuning kit.

Let us know when you get your new gear and give us a quick review of your impressions.
:)
 
Well I'm used to the perfect pedal so the brake on the V2 clubsports is like mush to me. hence the need for a new spring.
 
Mayaman
Well I'm used to the perfect pedal so the brake on the V2 clubsports is like mush to me. hence the need for a new spring.
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I would wear racing shoes when I used mine...this is about as stiff of a brake (real or sim) I've ever felt!
 
Yeah I wear racing moccasins when racing and the perfect pedal is MUCH more aggressive in its pressure than the V2 brake. Its not even close. So I'll update when I get my new spring.
 
I've had the V2's for about a month now, and I'm still getting used to the brake. It still feels as though I have to mash down on it pretty hard to get the brakes to really engage, even with settings on 10.
I guess I just got used to the G27 pedometer pedals.
 
XXI
I've had the V2's for about a month now, and I'm still getting used to the brake. It still feels as though I have to mash down on it pretty hard to get the brakes to really engage, even with settings on 10.
I guess I just got used to the G27 pedometer pedals.
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I had a similar problem going from stock G27 to CSPV2, but people here convinced me to stick with it. I had to mash the pedal and there was very little travel in the pedal. After a few hours of use I know notice the pedal has a bit more travel and not so hard to adjust and use. Now I love the CSPV2s and they are so nice for the price. I have been too lazy to get the whole lockup-pedal vibration thing to work, but I hope to do that sometime.
:)
 
I agree, it really takes some time to get used to the brake pedal of the V2, but that's mainly because of the load cell imo, given you change from G25/G27 like me.
I'm also planning to change the spring on the accelerator to stiffen it up.
About the brake I'm not sure, somehow I got used to it.
The clutch feels great as it is and gives perfect response.
 
It takes forever to get used to the G25 like pedals I say. I never succeeded with the no resistance type of pedals anyway :)

Doesn´t have to be loadcell but you must feel how much braking force you apply.
I got the CSP V2 some days ago and has acclimatized quite well to them. Have a bit of issues with the ergonomics. I use the T500RS pedals which are also great btw. I won´t be one of those that say the CSP V2 is a step up unless something dramatic happens :) Particularly if you do the mrbasher stiff brake mod and add some bushing you get very nice progressive resistance and supersmooth pedal travel and can tune it to the stiffness you want. I always loved the throttle it was just right.
Anyway I got them so they just seem to integrate with my feets completly.

CSP V2s like the T500RS don´t work well on a flat floor in my cockpit. The T500RS surely work better in comparison though. I need to angle the CSPs mainly due to being able to cope with the long throw of the throttle pedal. You have to twist your ankle a lot to get to full throttle which while doable causes strain in the long run and is not that comfortable to me. My driving position is GT style or what to say it. Lower then desktop racers but not feet above my butt F1. The low resistance allows you to use your toes or whatever you develope kind of a dance with them when I race them up a bit and angle them but otherwise they wouldn´t work at all for me with such a long throw on the throttle.

The throttle pedal don´t appear designed to adjust the throw of it? The throttle bar has these holes but there is no fixation holes for the pot and the cable supplied seems to short to move it upwards also? Is there another way you are supposed to be able to adjust the travel on the throttle pedal? Feels lame to short calibrate.

Also lack some tuning parts for the brake that came with the V1. But maybe the hydraulic system is not that flexible so if you would do the tuning of the V1s you would not take advantage of that? The short stiff brake of the V1s seem hard to get with the V2s. Anybody tried the rod extenders from CSP V1 on V2? Tried to fit some G27 springs I had but those are on the borderline to short on maximum preload it appears. Wonder if you won´t loose some of the hydraulic function with to strong springs. Anyway not sure it´s the right route for these pedals as I imagine I would then want to go for even more max force.

I haven´t mentioned the clutch. I hardly use that but that is certainly a cool feature of the V2 pedals. To bad nobody run LFS any longer :(.
 
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I put a 50lbs spring on my CSPv2 brake and since it is a bit longer than the stock spring it is probably more like 55lbs. That plus the 1200 oil is a great combo for me. Great toe exercise.
 
HoneyBadger
I just ordered the CS Pedals V2. Anyone know if the stiffer springs can be purchased without ordering the entire $50 V1 tuning kit? Any opinions on whether or not stiffer springs are needed with the V2s?
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I have both CSP V.1s and V.2s, and my V.1s have tuning kit parts installed.

1) Fanatec no longer sells the CSP V.1 Tuning Kit.
CSP V.1 Tuning Kits appear from time to time on eBay and Sim-related forums.
(But usually sell for more than their original list price of $50.00.)

2) The CSP V.1 Tuning Kit's included springs that are not the same spec. used for CSP V.2s new Brake, and Clutch.

To be precise:

• The CSP V.2's clutch mechanism utilizes a shorter spring than the CSP V.1s and the V.1 Tuning Kit.

• The CSP V.2 brake's RC shock spring is of completely different dimension than the brake spring on the V.1s and the V.1 Tuning Kit.

• The only V.1 Tuning Kit springs that are an out-of-the-box match for the CSP V.2s are for the accelerator.

• The V.1 Tuning Kit's alternate foams and steel rods will work with V.2s.
(They do not provide the same range of adjustability because the CSP V.2 brake arm pivot is mounted one notch higher by default than the V.1's due to the RC shock.)

• The extra pedal in the tuning kit is applicable to the V.2s, but is of different appearance.
(CSP V.2s sport stamped metal versions of the machined pedals bundled with V.1s).

• The steel axles and brass bushings are the same as on the V.2s.
(These were provided with V.1 tuning kit to replace the brass axles and plastic bushings on first-production run of V.1s.).

Photo below originally posted in ///DR's Fanatec Clubsport Pedals Tuning Kit Review/Guide\\\ thread.

2010-06-30174126.jpg

Personally, I found the the stock CSP V.1 accelerator and clutch springs to be too soft, and changed them out with alternate springs from the tuning kit. I also stiffened up the brake using the Tuning Kit parts.

The CSP V.2's accelerator, clutch, and brake springs are also too soft for me. I have yet to replace any of them.
So my V.1s are getting used much more than my V.2s.

Back when the CSP V.2s were released, Fanatec stated that a Tuning Kit for the V.2s would be forthcoming, but it has yet to be made available.
 
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oqvist
have you tried the extender rod on the brake pedal on the V2s?
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Since the V.2 brake arm pivot sits up one notch higher by default than the V.1s, the travel is shorter than the Stock V.1s.

The V.1 Tuning kit comes with 2 alternate rods, one is 30mm, one is 24mm, the stock one is 26mm. So the longer 30mm rod would really shorten the travel. (Thats why my post above says less adjustability regarding the V.1 Tuning Kit's brake rods and foam if used on V.2s).

The shorter 24mm rod was provided in the tuning kit in case the CSP V.1 brake pedal arm pivot is moved up one notch higher (to same default position as V.2 arm).

So I think in this case, just using the stiffer foam from the V.1 Tuning Kit is more effective than shortening the travel with longer 30mm rod. But I really did not see the sense in doing that without also replacing the brake spring on the V.2s with a stiffer one.

Hopefully sometime down the road Fanatec will release the tuning kit for the V.2s...
...and discussions like this thread will not be as necessary.
 
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I just got my Club Sport V2s and wanted more gas pedal firmness. So I visited my local home improvement store and bought some springs in the hardware section. These are Hillman springs as sold by Lowes.

This makes the gas pedal comparable in firmness to the clutch pedal, roughly twice as firm as stock.

You just wind the springs into each other and remount. No noise or coil binding. About 2-3 dollars for two.

CSPv2gassprings_zps6e205395.png


cspv2siamesed_zps7f7b5a2e.png
 
Guys, one question that I see nobody answer here.

What are you guys running as silicon oil with the springs? What Viscosity?
Cause the stiffer the spring, the less resistance/shock absorption you feel from any fluid.

So I have gone through...

Stiffer springs and progressive springs are as mentioned in the video I posted and is linked to by HoiHman a (few) pages back.
European viscosity measurement, American numbers need to divide these by 10. So 800 = 80, 1200 = 120... Etc.

800 oil + stock spring = far too weak (especially in comparison to my v1 with tuning kit). Dial at 4.
1200 oil + stock spring = decent, but still too weak. Dial at 7.5 ish.
1500 oil + stock spring = better feel of pressure build up, but weak. Dial at 8.
1500 oil + stiffer spring = good feel of pressure, but still missing build up. Not as weak, but still a meh... gut feeling. Dial at 8.5.
1500 oil + progressive stiffer spring = great feel of pressure build up, and not weak at all. You can really balance the brakes well. Dial at 9.
15000 oil + progressive stiffer spring = WOW! This is really heavy. Still the same progression in pressure build up, but the fluid pressure makes this brake so much stiffer. I run my loadcell dial now at 10 and I still have issues with getting full stopping power, especially when I get tired after a long racer. The good thing about this is that you offload the loadcell sensor since you don't put that much pressure on it (thus causing far less wear). Instead you're fighting with the oil in the shock and the spring.

That last one is what I run with now, but I might drop down to maybe a 12000 viscosity oil. The reason being that I have to put my foot down with so much pressure now that my rSeat's pedal plate (which I already modded with bigger washers, longer screws with locknuts at the end, etc) already dropped down suddenly under heavy braking. So now I secured it without the plastic/nylon washers, taking for granted any paint damage due to use.


So yeah... my question is: what oil do you use in your setup? ;)
 
In real racing you don't change damper fluids as much as you do internal valving bits. Along with external damper adjustments. It might be nice to have a knob or two to play with along with some internal bits for these tiny shocks. Once that was figured out you could make changes much more quickly than changing fluids. I supposed you also need to get all the air bubbles out with a fluid swap and that might take longer with the thicker oils.

My club sport pedals showed up the other day and came with one bottle of fluid, unlabeled. Anyone know what viscosity that might be?
 
RacerXX
I just got my Club Sport V2s and wanted more gas pedal firmness. So I visited my local home improvement store and bought some springs in the hardware section. These are Hillman springs as sold by Lowes.

This makes the gas pedal comparable in firmness to the clutch pedal, roughly twice as firm as stock.

You just wind the springs into each other and remount. No noise or coil binding. About 2-3 dollars for two.

CSPv2gassprings_zps6e205395.png


cspv2siamesed_zps7f7b5a2e.png
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Nice, gonna give this a try. By the way pretty sure the oil that comes with the V2's now is the 1200 viscosity.
 
RacerXX
In real racing you don't change damper fluids as much as you do internal valving bits. Along with external damper adjustments. It might be nice to have a knob or two to play with along with some internal bits for these tiny shocks. Once that was figured out you could make changes much more quickly than changing fluids. I supposed you also need to get all the air bubbles out with a fluid swap and that might take longer with the thicker oils.

My club sport pedals showed up the other day and came with one bottle of fluid, unlabeled. Anyone know what viscosity that might be?
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I had two bottles. One was 800 and the other 1200 viscosity. The 800 is almost like water when you turn the bottle over.

Also this shock is not a shock from a real car, this is from an R/C car. Those guys do change the fluids in their suspension.
Btw, you can get new pistons with no, one or multiple holes for in these shocks. The holes act as valves to let fluid through.

One tip, though not everyone does. I use teflon tape and wrap it around all threads that need to close the housing of both cylinders. This stops any air and liquid leaks, which is needed as the o-rings aren't strong enough alone to take on the pressure build up inside. Not even with the stock oils.
 
I came across a few adjustable dampers for RC cars. One or two knobs. Some have internal valving bits that can be tweaked. For instance you can separately adjust the behavior when the damper is extending (rebound) versus compressing (bump). I'll look into it further. I'd rather do that than change fluids very often. It looks like we need roughly a 125 mm / 5 inch length.

I'd be careful about going high on damping or spring rates on the little coilover, since this could make the braking action vary with pedal application speed more than real car brakes. On spring changes, if those are to be damped you shouldn't greatly vary the spring rate compared to stock as the damping characteristics can fall out of the range the valving/fluid in use can handle. I'm not sure if that is a real concern for a brake pedal damper but it is for car suspensions.
 
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New shipments only seem to ship with the 1200 oil. I think it´s okay. It does appear that there is less effort to full brake if you are quick on it then slow on it. But that may just be an illusion where static forces tire my muscles of course :)

I don´t seem to have to seal it. The second time I filled the chamber I overfilled it and so there was a process of pumping to get air and oil out so I could seal the orings. Hold up well for me after that procedure.
 
oqvist
New shipments only seem to ship with the 1200 oil. I think it´s okay. It does appear that there is less effort to full brake if you are quick on it then slow on it. But that may just be an illusion where static forces tire my muscles of course :)

I don´t seem to have to seal it. The second time I filled the chamber I overfilled it and so there was a process of pumping to get air and oil out so I could seal the orings. Hold up well for me after that procedure.
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Yeah I received one bottle of oil with no label on it. I heard the old bottles could leak, not the new sample. It also appears to be larger than the previously supplied bottles, judging from pictures I've seen.

What are your three favorite damper fluids, and why? Used with which springs too.

I'm asking because I just played with a small adjustment device that I can adapt to the stock damper to make it Externally Adjustable. About ½ hour to add it on once adapted. After that it would take as long to make a damping change as it does to turn the load cell knob. And stiffer springs could be properly damped.

But, is it even worth doing as far as the driving experience goes? I may do it anyway cuz I like messing with stuff lol.
 
RacerXX
Yeah I received one bottle of oil with no label on it. I heard the old bottles could leak, not the new sample. It also appears to be larger than the previously supplied bottles, judging from pictures I've seen.

What are your three favorite damper fluids, and why? Used with which springs too.

I'm asking because I just played with a small adjustment device that I can adapt to the stock damper to make it Externally Adjustable. About ½ hour to add it on once adapted. After that it would take as long to make a damping change as it does to turn the load cell knob. And stiffer springs could be properly damped.

But, is it even worth doing as far as the driving experience goes? I may do it anyway cuz I like messing with stuff lol.
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You might want to post this over at a place like www.rcuniverse.com when you get it worked out... There currently isn't anything available that can do this to my knowledge and you may be sitting on a gold mine if you've figured it out.

The HPI Baja 5B had something like this on it originally but it was replaced by a different type of shock which worked better and had less issues.
 
mrbasher
You might want to post this over at a place like www.rcuniverse.com when you get it worked out... There currently isn't anything available that can do this to my knowledge and you may be sitting on a gold mine if you've figured it out.
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I'll give it some thought, but I am likely to just enjoy it myself for now. It can be aggravating to post about some of these topics as it can upset others at times who then hassle you.

It works great in the sample I have made. Just have to adapt it to the lil Fanatec dampers and try it out while racing. It may be more but I am getting at least a 5:1 stiffness range of adjustment judging by the change in forces by hand. I'll post about it when I convert the mod to the Fanatec damper.
 
RacerXX
It works great in the sample I have made. Just have to adapt it to the lil Fanatec dampers and try it out while racing. It may be more but I am getting at least a 5:1 stiffness range of adjustment judging by the change in forces by hand. I'll post about it when I convert the mod to the Fanatec damper.
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Can you give us some insight into what you did on the sample you made?
 
Does all get jitter on the pedal outputs btw? Mine isn´t so bad I expect it to effect performance but I get jitter not only on the magnetic sensor but also the brake. Hold pedals stationary you see they go up and down slightly. I also notice there is a bit of input lag to them.

I don´t quite recall how much jitter I got on my V1 but may be less or I just took less notice.
 

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