Fanatec ClubSport Pedal V2 - Tuning

Its come to my Attention that some of the guys are buying Un Assembled Mugen shocks and are having a little hard time building in the proper order/sequence. So for guys looking to do the Mugen shock mod, here's a copy of the manual in case you happen to get a Un Assembled shock.

http://mugen.eu/manuals/

Again ANY question's feel free to ask.
 
Thanks for recommending this mod Nick, the difference was huge, I'd never imagined it would be that much better. I bought the Mugen E2513 rear damper set and the http://www.amain.com/mugen-seiki-rear-damper-spring-super-hard-86mm-95t-2/p145640 it worked perfectly.

After reading some other recommendations I also bought the GT EYE spring, but didn't like it and felt that a progressive spring on load cell is not ideal so went back to the mugen spring.

To anyone with V2 I'd recommend following Nick's advice, thanks again.

Btw using the 1200 oil, I have some 2500 oil as well, maybe I'll build my second damper with that and compare.
 
I found the Super heavy oil to have a very undesirable effect. slowed down the "pack" Far too much and the "off brake lift" proved to be a little sketchy. I personally feel anything above 50-60wt is too much, Im still using 35wt.
 
35wt seems very light, I have a range of AE 20-55wt bottles I think, I will test that as well then. For me it seems to return well with the 1200 (you hear the "thunk" on return) which I imagine is in cst/cts which would compare to 80 or 90wt?

One more thing, do you know if your losi spring has a higher spring rate than the mugen super hard? Couldn't figure out how to compare the rates.
 
Funny I just recently changed my mugen/GTE spring and shock combo for the other mugen and spring that came with it.
I love the feeling of the GTE and never manage to lock up under braking, but I just couldn't get the exact amount of braking versus force applied every time. Trying to just give the brake a little correctional tap through a corner and you had to really mash the pedal, sometimes it being too hard and sometimes too soft even if it was the same amount of force.
I notice two different ratings for the silicone oil over here its CST, mine is 4000 CST while Nicks is 35WT. How do they compare anyone?
 
Funny I just recently changed my mugen/GTE spring and shock combo for the other mugen and spring that came with it.
I love the feeling of the GTE and never manage to lock up under braking, but I just couldn't get the exact amount of braking versus force applied every time. Trying to just give the brake a little correctional tap through a corner and you had to really mash the pedal, sometimes it being too hard and sometimes too soft even if it was the same amount of force.
I notice two different ratings for the silicone oil over here its CST, mine is 4000 CST while Nicks is 35WT. How do they compare anyone?


What brand is it , It boils down to that, Some are measured differently. I know kinda wacked but its the way we've evolved over the years with all the different manufacturers.

And are you sure its 4000CST ? and not 400 ? The only listing i can find for 4000CST is from the Cheap China Mfg's and thats the same stuff as what Fanatec includes in their package. Cheap Crap i wouldn't even bother opening.


For sheer referance, here's a few charts

http://www.rcrcr.com/index.php?opti...hock-oil-cps-vs-wt&catid=31:general&Itemid=46





Carson your up one hole already on the pivot point right ?
 
My pivot point is one hole from the base and two from the shock. Should I move it?

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Yes Move it up one, NIGHT and DAY different, Trust me. Had Enough guys try and be BLOWN away at the difference a Tiny pivot change can make. Takes out a lot of the "gushy" feel before you even touch the load cell.

And as far as the Oil goes, Ya thats the stuff i was finding when searching. But Cant for the life of me find a conversion from 4000 down to wt. I just dont like the Really heavy oil, you want the Piston to be able to do its job in the time frame we're looking for, Super Heavy oil will slow down the pack drastically not allowing things to rebound properly unless you have a Super Stiff Spring to counteract the Heavy oil.
 
Thanks Nick, Yeah I changed it yesterday and remembered I had tried it before. It shortens the brake travel but it takes away the dead zone and feels a lot stiffer.
I started setting PB's and my braking is far more precise .
On the oil, my rebound is great compared to stock.
 
Thanks Nick, Yeah I changed it yesterday and remembered I had tried it before. It shortens the brake travel but it takes away the dead zone and feels a lot stiffer.
I started setting PB's and my braking is far more precise .
On the oil, my rebound is great compared to stock.



Im thinkin typical Knock off brand stuff, Add a Zero at the end and it makes it That much better, LOL.


So most likely the 4000 CST as a made up version of 400 cst. which is right around the ball park i like to see. So Its all good. :cheers:
 

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