Fanatec CSL Elite Racing Wheel Thread- officially licensed for PS4
- Thread starter PzR Slim
- 2,901 comments
- 395,371 views
- 164
- Belarus-Minsk
rightly say the Americans! I really do not understand those support! some say the 344 driver for DD databases; others give it to me for download. and for now yes all Goode will go to AСС now I will keep you posted
- 634
- Sofia
- 164
- Belarus-Minsk
I’ll just say my opinion. It's certainly cool! but such a steering wheel of my friends broke, the petal doesn’t shift gears, it completely fell off. And how he is arranged inside is just a joystick
- 634
- Sofia
Another reason to be happy with your F1 rim!I’ll just say my opinion. It's certainly cool! but such a steering wheel of my friends broke, the petal doesn’t shift gears, it completely fell off. And how he is arranged inside is just a joystick
- 164
- Belarus-Minsk
- 164
- Belarus-Minsk
Hi
. sold his kit csl elite + lc.
N standing in front of new elections. You can ask a question
buy again the same base only version csl elite v1 does not make sense? true because with a high fie parameter a knock happens all the time!? I got a good price for the kit and now I look towards csw 2.5. +I think I will buy a BMW steering wheel. but I doubt something since I play most assettо corsa compitizione Gt3. I know what is more convenient on the steering wheel formula. and how do you think is it possible to show a good result on the steering wheel of a BMW. or the whole matter of habit.
. sold his kit csl elite + lc. N standing in front of new elections. You can ask a question
buy again the same base only version csl elite v1 does not make sense? true because with a high fie parameter a knock happens all the time!? I got a good price for the kit and now I look towards csw 2.5. +I think I will buy a BMW steering wheel. but I doubt something since I play most assettо corsa compitizione Gt3. I know what is more convenient on the steering wheel formula. and how do you think is it possible to show a good result on the steering wheel of a BMW. or the whole matter of habit.
- 3,090
- Port of Spain
- davidtsmith333
How come you sold it to someone when you were getting so many problems with it? Is the buyer aware of the issues?Hi
N standing in front of new elections. You can ask a question
- 164
- Belarus-Minsk
Many problems! yes thanks Fanatec! for such a great product. What can I tell you? that the product is working at the moment! and no problem! today you drive a car and don’t know what can happen there is no certainty! This device can work for two years, or maybe 10 years! and my devices are still under warranty! the buyer will certainly know about all the nuances. all users have a lot of problems! it is a steering wheel and it is not perfect! same DD they are also not eternal! so don't criticize me
- 714
- New York
- GTP-DEADPOOL
Having a issue with my few month old CSL PS4 F1 setup. I’m playing on a PS4 with GT Sport.
I’ve had a few occasions in the past where when I turn on the wheel, just before it rotates there is a medium/loud vibration/knocking sound within the wheel, the wheel itself also vibrates, this lasts maybe 5sec. It only makes this noise/vibration with the F1 wheel attached, if I remove the wheel it’s silent on boot.
The few times it happened the wheel felt odd so I reboot and it would boot up with no noise and everything’s great.
Fast forward to last night. 90% of bootups result in the vibration, but not with wheel attached. Wheel feels fine in menus. But the moment I either get on track or go to the PS4 XMB bar, the wheel tightens up dramatically. Even sitting in the menu screen if I bump the wheel it will oscillate violently.
On track I suddenly have medium oscillations on the straights. That’s annoying, and if that was the only problem it wouldn’t be a huge issue. But the problem continues in corners where the wheel has a rubber and type feeling where it’s fighting me. If I get oversteer the wheel fights me and has this sudden jerk that’s also followed by being light with no feel, makes controlling oversteer very tricky.
Did GTS change something in the last few days that messed things up? I even jumped into a Miata and it was undriveable. I’m not positive on my Firmware on the CSL, I’m going to plug into my computer tonight to check everything over.
Nothing changed on my settings so it was really weird to suddenly have this problem. I’ve tried changing settings and got it to be decent but I’ve lost strength in the FFB trying to kill the oscillation.
Anyone else notice a change recently? Is the noise/vibration on startup normal?
a) On GTS settings
- FFB Torque: 6
- FFB sensitivity: 10
b) On Fanatec Wheel Config:
- Sen: Auto
- FF: 100
- SHO:100
- ABS: OFF
- DRI: OFF
- FOR: 070
- SPR: 100
- DPR: 100
- BRF: 50
- FEI: 010
I’ve had a few occasions in the past where when I turn on the wheel, just before it rotates there is a medium/loud vibration/knocking sound within the wheel, the wheel itself also vibrates, this lasts maybe 5sec. It only makes this noise/vibration with the F1 wheel attached, if I remove the wheel it’s silent on boot.
The few times it happened the wheel felt odd so I reboot and it would boot up with no noise and everything’s great.
Fast forward to last night. 90% of bootups result in the vibration, but not with wheel attached. Wheel feels fine in menus. But the moment I either get on track or go to the PS4 XMB bar, the wheel tightens up dramatically. Even sitting in the menu screen if I bump the wheel it will oscillate violently.
On track I suddenly have medium oscillations on the straights. That’s annoying, and if that was the only problem it wouldn’t be a huge issue. But the problem continues in corners where the wheel has a rubber and type feeling where it’s fighting me. If I get oversteer the wheel fights me and has this sudden jerk that’s also followed by being light with no feel, makes controlling oversteer very tricky.
Did GTS change something in the last few days that messed things up? I even jumped into a Miata and it was undriveable. I’m not positive on my Firmware on the CSL, I’m going to plug into my computer tonight to check everything over.
Nothing changed on my settings so it was really weird to suddenly have this problem. I’ve tried changing settings and got it to be decent but I’ve lost strength in the FFB trying to kill the oscillation.
Anyone else notice a change recently? Is the noise/vibration on startup normal?
a) On GTS settings
- FFB Torque: 6
- FFB sensitivity: 10
b) On Fanatec Wheel Config:
- Sen: Auto
- FF: 100
- SHO:100
- ABS: OFF
- DRI: OFF
- FOR: 070
- SPR: 100
- DPR: 100
- BRF: 50
- FEI: 010
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- 714
- New York
- GTP-DEADPOOL
I didn’t have any problems till last night with oscillation so it’s def either a update change or something else.
I’ll redo/update drivers tonight and do some more troubleshooting.
Tried -5 and it barely helped, but made the steering feel blah.
I’ll video the problems when I get home from work and confirm all my settings. I kept S1 as I had it and instead created a S2 profile to trouble shoot. I’ll post all my findings tonight. The vibration noise at start is something I’ve yet to see in any videos of startup.
EDIT: Forgot to mention that I did have a weird issue a few times where the F1 rim was acting on the fritz. The menu for adjusting the wheel would jump around randomly and I had to take the wheel on/off multiple times to resolve the issue.
EDIT: Found this video online, fast forward to when he clicks the forcefeedback test. That’s the noise mine makes, but without wheel movement. Then after the wheel finishes it’s calibration/rotation it vibrates with that noise but barely any wheel movement then I grab the wheel and it stops.
Same as this, just without the wheel movement.
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- 164
- Belarus-Minsk
Deadpool
Tis a normal occurrence for which steering wheel this csl is one belt and the gear will constantly rattle with you and do less ffb test do not do it you will have more steering wheel take care of it!
Tis a normal occurrence for which steering wheel this csl is one belt and the gear will constantly rattle with you and do less ffb test do not do it you will have more steering wheel take care of it!
- 714
- New York
- GTP-DEADPOOL
No what I’m experiencing is not normal. I know what you mean about the “chatter” that people get with the CSL with the knocking noise. This is something new that hasn’t happened before for me. My wheel is violently fighting me and I’m having to remove almost all my FFB to cure it. This is not acceptable for this price point.
EDIT: What I meant by “it hasn’t happened before” is the FFB going into crazy violent mode. The chatter on boot up was now and then, I knew it wasn’t normal but it didn’t effect the driving so I ignored it. Now I think it was a warning sign that something’s amiss.
I’m going to do a thorough round of trouble shooting tonight before I contact Fanatec. I want to provide them with all the data I can. Test plugged into PS4 vs not, different games etc, video of the issues etc.
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- 164
- Belarus-Minsk
Deadpool
remove the driver, install the driver from the site is not beta! check again. I still don’t understand what your problem is! If the pendulum is in the game, then it will be! You will not leave it! a little bit can be removed but not completely. and such a question is why remove your hands in the race from the wheel. The pilot always holds the wheel.
remove the driver, install the driver from the site is not beta! check again. I still don’t understand what your problem is! If the pendulum is in the game, then it will be! You will not leave it! a little bit can be removed but not completely. and such a question is why remove your hands in the race from the wheel. The pilot always holds the wheel.
- 714
- New York
- GTP-DEADPOOL
@DomB_Fanatec
You should always hold the wheel, but that doesn’t mean it’s ok for a wheel to be fighting you in a straight line. That oscillation on the straight doesn’t stop on the straight, that effect is felt in the corner as well, the moment you have oversteer the wheel fights you violently. This is not acceptable and not normal. Trust me I know what normal is.
This is also happening on the PS4 main screen and the menu screens within GT.
The reason I’m letting go of the wheel is to test/verify the oscillation, I don’t let go of the wheel normally. But if a wheel is oscillating on the straight, it’s going to wreak havoc when you are trying to correct oversteer or even turn as everything is out of whack with the steering. It’s like having a busted steering rack with a mind of its own.
Point being. Before last night I had ZERO oscillation and the wheel drove perfect like a real car. Now it’s loaded with oscillation and fighting me in corners. It’s impossible to be smooth as you lose all feeling for the road.
EDIT: Another way of explaining it. I’m now incapable of making tiny corrections mid corner as the second I get even a tiny bit of rotation it throws the wheel into the slide violently which is not normal or realistic. Normally with oversteer steering gets a little lighter, and you apply corrections etc. This feels like broken suspension fighting you and pulling you in the wrong direction.
It’s as if the steering has suddenly been sprung super tight and the tiniest thing sends it dramatically one way or the other. None of my settings have changed. And not just that, the steering is so focused on being violent that I lose all the small details of what’s happening.
Key thing to remember. This isn’t a brand new wheel that I’m unfamiliar with and trouble shooting. I dealt with the wheel notchy/clicking issue everyone has at first and tuned it out. I’ve been running it for months with zero issues. This is a sudden and dramatic change. Also the wheel noise at startup, was previously a rare occurrence. Like 1 out of 10 starts. Now it’s 9 out of 10 last night. Coincidence? Probably not.
EDIT: Video of my wheel.
This time the noise wouldn’t stop till I touched the wheel.
I checked my firmware and everything was up to date accounting to the updater. Reinstalled anyways, no difference. Also, these videos it is only connected to my computer and the Updater. So we can rule out the PS4/GT as the issue.
NEW EDIT:
Ok so I finished testing. I redid firmware, tried every conceivable setting on both the wheel and the game including Fanatecs recommended settings. Tried it in Project Cars 2 with various settings, and GT Sport various settings. The wheel is literally undriveable now, it's even worse than last night.
As you enter a corner and all the way through the corner, the wheel is pulling in the opposite direction while also requiring Herculean strength to turn in. If you are carrying any speed in high speed sweepers it throws you into a spin almost every time. It's literally a miracle to finish a lap without crashing. The entire time your driving it's as if someone is grabbing the wheel and trying to counter everything you do. The only way I could get it to stop was to essentially put the Force setting to almost nothing and reduce FFB to near nothing. At which point you have a car that you can't feel anything and you might as well be using a old logitech Momo from like 1999. It's that bad.
Gonna contact Fanatec and send it in.
You should always hold the wheel, but that doesn’t mean it’s ok for a wheel to be fighting you in a straight line. That oscillation on the straight doesn’t stop on the straight, that effect is felt in the corner as well, the moment you have oversteer the wheel fights you violently. This is not acceptable and not normal. Trust me I know what normal is.
This is also happening on the PS4 main screen and the menu screens within GT.
The reason I’m letting go of the wheel is to test/verify the oscillation, I don’t let go of the wheel normally. But if a wheel is oscillating on the straight, it’s going to wreak havoc when you are trying to correct oversteer or even turn as everything is out of whack with the steering. It’s like having a busted steering rack with a mind of its own.
Point being. Before last night I had ZERO oscillation and the wheel drove perfect like a real car. Now it’s loaded with oscillation and fighting me in corners. It’s impossible to be smooth as you lose all feeling for the road.
EDIT: Another way of explaining it. I’m now incapable of making tiny corrections mid corner as the second I get even a tiny bit of rotation it throws the wheel into the slide violently which is not normal or realistic. Normally with oversteer steering gets a little lighter, and you apply corrections etc. This feels like broken suspension fighting you and pulling you in the wrong direction.
It’s as if the steering has suddenly been sprung super tight and the tiniest thing sends it dramatically one way or the other. None of my settings have changed. And not just that, the steering is so focused on being violent that I lose all the small details of what’s happening.
Key thing to remember. This isn’t a brand new wheel that I’m unfamiliar with and trouble shooting. I dealt with the wheel notchy/clicking issue everyone has at first and tuned it out. I’ve been running it for months with zero issues. This is a sudden and dramatic change. Also the wheel noise at startup, was previously a rare occurrence. Like 1 out of 10 starts. Now it’s 9 out of 10 last night. Coincidence? Probably not.
EDIT: Video of my wheel.
This time the noise wouldn’t stop till I touched the wheel.
I checked my firmware and everything was up to date accounting to the updater. Reinstalled anyways, no difference. Also, these videos it is only connected to my computer and the Updater. So we can rule out the PS4/GT as the issue.
NEW EDIT:
Ok so I finished testing. I redid firmware, tried every conceivable setting on both the wheel and the game including Fanatecs recommended settings. Tried it in Project Cars 2 with various settings, and GT Sport various settings. The wheel is literally undriveable now, it's even worse than last night.
As you enter a corner and all the way through the corner, the wheel is pulling in the opposite direction while also requiring Herculean strength to turn in. If you are carrying any speed in high speed sweepers it throws you into a spin almost every time. It's literally a miracle to finish a lap without crashing. The entire time your driving it's as if someone is grabbing the wheel and trying to counter everything you do. The only way I could get it to stop was to essentially put the Force setting to almost nothing and reduce FFB to near nothing. At which point you have a car that you can't feel anything and you might as well be using a old logitech Momo from like 1999. It's that bad.
Gonna contact Fanatec and send it in.
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- 164
- Belarus-Minsk
Deadpool
I understand everything! Yesterday in the first video I did not understand what you wanted to convey. yes this is obviously a problem! You should definitely contact Fanatek. I am very sorry that we users began to experience problems so often. I, YOU, my friends, they all had problems with Fanatek. after such events, I have a bad impression about this company.
I understand everything! Yesterday in the first video I did not understand what you wanted to convey. yes this is obviously a problem! You should definitely contact Fanatek. I am very sorry that we users began to experience problems so often. I, YOU, my friends, they all had problems with Fanatek. after such events, I have a bad impression about this company.
Try to decrease SPR setting to 20 or 10 or OFF and put DRI to -1. It will solve your problem. And for GTS i found it is a best settings. Put your force and FEI as you like (for FEI it is better to set it at 20 or 10)
And in game force setting you can set up it as you like but lower the sensivity to 6, 5 or 4. (It should be not higher than force setting in my opinion)
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- 714
- New York
- GTP-DEADPOOL
Tried that, no help. SPR has almost zero effect. My FEI is usually 10-20 as more than that gives me the understeer clunking.
The only thing that got rid of the violent FFB was removing almost all FFB, but then the wheel is lifeless and that’s not acceptable for a $600 wheel. The wheel is literally trying to rip itself from my hands.
Also remember, up until 2 days ago the wheel drove perfect for 5 months. Suddenly it starts acting this way? There were no game updates, I hadn’t updated anything at all. This was a sudden change in the wheels behavior.
Just saw your edit regarding sensitivity in game. I adjusted this from 1-10, it made a little difference in feel but didn’t remedy the core issue of the wheel fighting me. I also tried Project Cars with various settings, still bad.
EDIT: Here’s another way of looking at it. See my Avatar? That’s a 934.5. No power steering. That thing was a beast and a workout. This wheel, turning in on a corner/mid corner feels like trying to turn the 934.5 in a parking lot. It’s so bad its funny. That car was easier to drive than this wheel, clearly somethings wrong.
I’ll test more tonight. But the fact that no settings changed, no game updates, and suddenly the wheel starts acting this way, somethings up. And I shouldn’t have to drastically change my settings away from even the recommended manufacturers settings, if the solution is “remove FFB and all road feel by using settings wildly different than normal” that’s not a solution.
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- 415
- Germany
@Deadpool, unfortunately I found your video on YouTube video before I read this thread, and so when I replied in the comments I was only responding to what you showed in the video, which could have been explained as normal behaviour (dependent on Tuning Menu settings). However, having read your descriptions here, it sounds like there is indeed a hardware issue with the base, and you should definitely contact our support team to get this resolved.
- 714
- New York
- GTP-DEADPOOL
No worries! Yeah it was tricky for me to explain at first because some factors on there own could be attributed to settings. The noise from the base may or may not be a coincidence, but it was interesting how now every time I turn it on it does that before the wheel calibrates and again after.
I created a support ticket last night and included a link for this thread.
Oh and love the wheel, such a huge upgrade over my GT3RS wheel I ran for years. So when I say “unacceptable” it’s not a knock on the product, I was trying to convey that if anyone drove mine they wouldn’t find it to be normal/acceptable. I had it dialed in so nicely lol, felt very natural/realistic and gave me incredible consistency lap after lap. So kudos on a great product
It would be great if it could be resolved by a software update, but I’m on the current one so not sure. I’ll keep everyone posted on what the support team says/finds.
- 11
- Greece
Hi guys.I just jumped from GT sport to F1 2019 and its a whole lot of different thing.I have a serious problem with the feeling of the wheel,throttle and braking.Does someone have any good wheel settings and in game settings ?
- 415
- Germany
We have recommended settings for all platforms and all wheel bases here:
https://www.fanatec.com/forum/categ...net&utm_campaign=General+Links&a_aid=gtplanet
- 594
- Barbados
My only question is which driver are you using with these settings? Are you using the "official" 311 or 328 drivers or one of the beta versions?
Keith.
- 415
- Germany
