Fanatec CSL Elite Steering Wheel P1

  • Thread starter super_gt
  • 58 comments
  • 20,111 views
EndoeONE
Hi, is it possible to install the metal QR into a P1 rim, sorry I know it's an old thread just wanted to clear this up
Click to expand...

No, because the Quick Release on the P1 rims (all three of them) are cast into the wheel. It's seriously doubtful that Fanatec would make a P1v1.6 where the QR is removable.
 
EndoeONE
Hi, is it possible to install the metal QR into a P1 rim, sorry I know it's an old thread just wanted to clear this up
Click to expand...
There is a guy in facebook that can provide you with a 3dprinted mod for the back section of this wheel. With this mod you can bolt the Clubsport QR on the wheel and also upgrade the paddles with magnets. But you are out of waranty with this mod. I will pm him to make a thread here in the forum. It is a very good mod with positive reviews until now from the people who have bought it.
 
ANDRITSOULAS
There is a guy in facebook that can provide you with a 3dprinted mod for the back section of this wheel. With this mod you can bolt the Clubsport QR on the wheel and also upgrade the paddles with magnets. But you are out of waranty with this mod. I will pm him to make a thread here in the forum. It is a very good mod with positive reviews until now from the people who have bought it.
Click to expand...
This sounds interesting, do you have a link?
 
super_gt
This sounds interesting, do you have a link?
Click to expand...
I have pmed him. I just do not know if i am allowed to show any links or pictures. I suppose it would not be a problem....... But just for justice i told him about this thread. Also i suppose there will be a lot of people that might like this mod. It holds pretty well according to the buyers that use his mod.
 
Hello,

New to the forum

I live in japan and decided to buy the only CSL Elite bundle available on FANATEC Japan website which is the XBOX wheelbase and standard P1 wheel. Still no sign of any official PS4 wheel base coming to my eyes or ears, that was a bit disappointing so I decided to take the plunge but I am not overly impressed.
The wheel feels heavy and sluggish even with altering Drift or Force setting while tested on different Sims like PC2, ACC or RRE (I play on PC by teh way).
I had a DFGT 10yrs ago when I arrived in Japan and bought a standard CSR FORZA wheel in between and I felt both of them were more lively and reactive, if that makes sense, despite whats meant to be weaker Torque motors.

I had read few reviews before making the decision and knew the Std P1 is 200g heavier than the elite P1 but I expected the torquey motor in the CSL Elite wheelbase would compensate, but no.

I am considering 2 Options if you guys could advise

1) Returning the P1 and get from FANATEC the P1 Elite instead by paying a bit extra

2) getting this QR mod mentioned in some post above and buy a lighter GT/F1 type of wheel down the road

what do you reckon?
 
nolive721
Hello,

New to the forum

I live in japan and decided to buy the only CSL Elite bundle available on FANATEC Japan website which is the XBOX wheelbase and standard P1 wheel. Still no sign of any official PS4 wheel base coming to my eyes or ears, that was a bit disappointing so I decided to take the plunge but I am not overly impressed.
The wheel feels heavy and sluggish even with altering Drift or Force setting while tested on different Sims like PC2, ACC or RRE (I play on PC by teh way).
I had a DFGT 10yrs ago when I arrived in Japan and bought a standard CSR FORZA wheel in between and I felt both of them were more lively and reactive, if that makes sense, despite whats meant to be weaker Torque motors.

I had read few reviews before making the decision and knew the Std P1 is 200g heavier than the elite P1 but I expected the torquey motor in the CSL Elite wheelbase would compensate, but no.

I am considering 2 Options if you guys could advise

1) Returning the P1 and get from FANATEC the P1 Elite instead by paying a bit extra

2) getting this QR mod mentioned in some post above and buy a lighter GT/F1 type of wheel down the road

what do you reckon?
Click to expand...
Hi nolive721,

While it is indeed possible to feel the weight difference between the P1 and Elite P1 when attached to a CSL Elite base, it is quite subtle. The fact is, both wheels are considered very light, and the performance of the CSL Elite motor is more than capable of handling either of them.

If you believe the much lower performance motors from your old FFB bases somehow felt more "lively and reactive", I'd say that is very unlikely to be related to the physical weight of the wheel, and more a case of not finding a setting that you are comfortable with. The CSL Elite base with a P1 wheel will easily outperform a DFGT and CSR by every measurable metric, so there must be some other reason for this. If you dislike the feeling of the CSL Elite so much that even these old bases feel better, then I really doubt that a small reduction in steering wheel weight is going to change that.

Interestingly, the three sims you mention, in my opinion, tend provide the more 'weighty' feeling FFB signals compared to the likes of rFactor 2, Automobilista, iRacing, and even the original Assetto Corsa, so that might have something to do with it also.

As the original CSL Elite runs the older motor driver that has a constant electrical damper, using positive DRI settings can help significantly with reducing the feeling of wheel weight. DRI 003 is often a good setting for the CSL E WB, and the FF setting is usually best left at 100 (and lowering the strength in-game), so that you're making full use of the available motor performance while reducing the chances of clipping. Running a high FEI value is also beneficial to the feeling of 'directness'.

Also worth considering is that if you have only recently started using the products, you may still be in an adjustment period. The behaviour of a CSL Elite is dramatically different from a DFGT or CSR, to such an extent that you may have to adjust your driving style.
 
Hi Dom

thanks for teh edtailed feedback, much appreciated

Might be difficult to change my driving style at 46yrs old and my tuned A250 might not eb pleased if I was doing so to her lol)

Anyway, digressing
Maybe my wording was misleading, the CSl is obviously a much better wheel from my short experience than the DFGT but from this reactivity point of view, its not THAT much better than my old CSR and this is where I was, and still am, disappointed.

Its Saturday morning in Japan so I had a bit more fiddling with it. Setting DPR to OFF has helped but going with FOR at 100 creates massive oscillation in straight so I had to tune back to 70 as it used to be.

I have noticed, and you might help here, quite few confusing things with drivers on FANATEC JAPAN website.The latest drivers of the bundle CSL E WB and P1 Rim shows v292

but if you look at the CSL E WB alone, it goes up to 293 and even 311 versions

The 293 has the Option to alter the DPR from 0 to 100% where it looks like the 311 hasnt. Its not easy to find info on change logs so do you know what has changed and what are you recommending personally?

not to go too much OT on my own thread but I fired up DIRT RALLY and 1st the wheel wasn't recognized at all despite a preset existing in the Game folder, so I had to set it up myself with a rather poor result exhibiting even more than in GT game like ACC this sluggish reactivity at counter steer so important in Rally

dont want to give up but I expected more straight forward experience off the bat to be honest
 
DomB_Fanatec
As the original CSL Elite runs the older motor driver that has a constant electrical damper, using positive DRI settings can help significantly with reducing the feeling of wheel weight.
Click to expand...

Hi Dom,

The comments above interested me as I am still waiting to transition from the very old 911 RS2 wheel to one of the three current wheelbases (Elite, Elite PS4 or going all out to the Clubsport). I haven't decided yet and although yes, the money might be there for any of them I would much rather spend as little as I could (with might let me get better pedals and a shifter). I would be intending to use the XBox Elite rim with the first two bases or the BMW rim with the clubsport base.

I actually had my old 911 wheel set to drift 003 which is what you recommended in your comment above when speaking of the original Elite wheelbase - I found it basically made the wheel "neutral" in terms of damping - at least to me. But I am also wondering in that given I am only running a sim that is now more than a decade old (Race 07), whether the basic Elite wheel might be the best choice for such an old title. I say this because I wonder if the much older sim will "integrate" better with the "older technology" wheelbase - that being the original Elite rather than the other two much newer ones? I had the force feedback tuned absolutely perfectly with the old 911 wheel (and with drift set to 003) and I am now thinking that changing to one of the more "modern" wheelbases might not work as well as just sticking with the Elite wheelbase (as the plain Elite wheelbase seems to me to reflect the software characteristics of the older 911 series wheels but with the improved mechanicals).

I wouldn't really be considering such a question if money was no object and I was running even a remotely contemporary sim, but I am not in a position to update either my PC or monitor (which date from 2009!) and I am happy sticking with the very old Race 07 for the foreseeable future in any case. And in particular, when you recommended Drift 003 for the Elite wheelbase, that struck a chord with me given I had found that to be the perfect setting (after a heck of a lot of experimentation) on my old 911 wheel as well.
 
The CSL Elite for PS4 and CSW Base v2.5 allow you to turn off the damper which means you will not have to use positive drift values at least in a normal race.
I always use drift off with my CSL Elite for Xbox because if I use positive drift values at least in LFS in some situations when I need to counter steer lightning fast the steering wheel fights against me.

super_gt
The motor driver electronics in the CSL Elite Xbox is an older version which can't be updated resulting in a difference in the Drift Mode. In Drift Mode with CSL Elite Xbox you have values: OFF/1/2/3/4/5. From 1 to 5 is adding an artificial acceleration on the wheel, the OFF position is applying artificial damping,
In Drift Mode with CSL Elite PS4 you have values: -5/-4/-3/-2/-1/OFF/1/2/3/4/5. The negative values from -5 to -1 apply artificial damping, the OFF position turns off the artificial damping and from 1 to 5 is adding an artificial acceleration on the wheel.
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
nolive721
Hi Dom

thanks for teh edtailed feedback, much appreciated

Might be difficult to change my driving style at 46yrs old and my tuned A250 might not eb pleased if I was doing so to her lol)

Anyway, digressing
Maybe my wording was misleading, the CSl is obviously a much better wheel from my short experience than the DFGT but from this reactivity point of view, its not THAT much better than my old CSR and this is where I was, and still am, disappointed.

Its Saturday morning in Japan so I had a bit more fiddling with it. Setting DPR to OFF has helped but going with FOR at 100 creates massive oscillation in straight so I had to tune back to 70 as it used to be.

I have noticed, and you might help here, quite few confusing things with drivers on FANATEC JAPAN website.The latest drivers of the bundle CSL E WB and P1 Rim shows v292

but if you look at the CSL E WB alone, it goes up to 293 and even 311 versions

The 293 has the Option to alter the DPR from 0 to 100% where it looks like the 311 hasnt. Its not easy to find info on change logs so do you know what has changed and what are you recommending personally?

not to go too much OT on my own thread but I fired up DIRT RALLY and 1st the wheel wasn't recognized at all despite a preset existing in the Game folder, so I had to set it up myself with a rather poor result exhibiting even more than in GT game like ACC this sluggish reactivity at counter steer so important in Rally

dont want to give up but I expected more straight forward experience off the bat to be honest
Click to expand...
FOR at 100 does not directly induce oscillation, but it may increase the potential for oscillation depending on other settings, particularly in-game settings. Oscillation is an inherent problem with driving simulations in general, is caused by a combination of factors, and is not unique to Fanatec hardware. If you feel like 70 was better than 100, I suggest turning it back to 100 and then turning down the overall FFB strength in the game by a similar amount. This way you are at least using the full capacity of the motor and getting a linear response. You might have been running the in-game strength too high (inducing clipping, which can contribute to oscillation).

Did you try raising the DRI value as I suggested? The DPR mode often has little or no effect (depending on the sim); the DRI value is much more significant.

Regarding the driver listing, the Japan site needs updating on some of these download pages, thanks for the feedback. But generally we recommend that you check the specific product page for drivers rather than the bundle page. I would recommend using 311. There are beta drivers also available on our forum.

Change logs haven't always been available for each driver release but we are improving that moving forward (you'll see a significant change log in the beta 326 thread for example). I believe you are referring to the damper slider that was present in earlier drivers - this was removed and is only controllable from the Tuning Menu now.

As for DiRT Rally, it's true that the control setup is a little confusing, as some inputs seem to work 'out of the box', and others don't. But I would treat it like any other sim, where you're far better off calibrating and setting the inputs yourself. If you felt like you ended up with a bad result, it would be wrong to assume that this was because it didn't have a preset. DiRT Rally has some unusual force feedback at times, and there are a number of variables that can contribute to the 'sluggish' feeling that you are experiencing, and most likely related to the physics and the in-game settings, rather than a limitation of the hardware.

This is what I suggest (for the CSL E WB) in DR:

Tuning Menu:
SEN 108
FF 100
SHO 100
ABS User Preference
DRI 003
FOR 100
SPR 100
DPR 100
BRF User Preference
FEI 100

In-Game:
Vibration & Feedback: On
Self Aligning Torque: 75
Wheel Friction: 0
Tyre Friction: 42
Suspension: 75
Tyre Slip: 0
Collision: 50
Soft Lock: 50
Steering Center Force: 50

Mr Sausage
Hi Dom,

The comments above interested me as I am still waiting to transition from the very old 911 RS2 wheel to one of the three current wheelbases (Elite, Elite PS4 or going all out to the Clubsport). I haven't decided yet and although yes, the money might be there for any of them I would much rather spend as little as I could (with might let me get better pedals and a shifter). I would be intending to use the XBox Elite rim with the first two bases or the BMW rim with the clubsport base.

I actually had my old 911 wheel set to drift 003 which is what you recommended in your comment above when speaking of the original Elite wheelbase - I found it basically made the wheel "neutral" in terms of damping - at least to me. But I am also wondering in that given I am only running a sim that is now more than a decade old (Race 07), whether the basic Elite wheel might be the best choice for such an old title. I say this because I wonder if the much older sim will "integrate" better with the "older technology" wheelbase - that being the original Elite rather than the other two much newer ones? I had the force feedback tuned absolutely perfectly with the old 911 wheel (and with drift set to 003) and I am now thinking that changing to one of the more "modern" wheelbases might not work as well as just sticking with the Elite wheelbase (as the plain Elite wheelbase seems to me to reflect the software characteristics of the older 911 series wheels but with the improved mechanicals).

I wouldn't really be considering such a question if money was no object and I was running even a remotely contemporary sim, but I am not in a position to update either my PC or monitor (which date from 2009!) and I am happy sticking with the very old Race 07 for the foreseeable future in any case. And in particular, when you recommended Drift 003 for the Elite wheelbase, that struck a chord with me given I had found that to be the perfect setting (after a heck of a lot of experimentation) on my old 911 wheel as well.
Click to expand...
Hi Mr Sausage, that's an interesting question. You are correct in thinking that the original CSL E WB has DRI characteristics that are closer to the 911 series than the WB+ and V2.5 which have upgraded electronics. However, I wouldn't conclude that the CSL E WB is therefore more suited to Race 07 than the newer models. All three models would work well, and the WB+ and V2.5 simply give you a broader range of options to play with in regards to the DRI mode (if you like the feeling of DRI 003 on a CSL E WB, you'll probably like DRI -2 on a WB+ or V2.5). Both bases generally will feel more 'free spinning' and responsive than the CSL E WB. The V2.5 of course is the higher specification in general as it is a ClubSport Series product, and is easily the best of the three bases. The CSL E WB and WB+ are closer in terms of overall performance and steering characteristics as they have the same internal mechanism.
 
DomB_Fanatec
Hello. You can respond about the fact that the csl elite ps4 base has a weak fan installed in games like iracing with high ffb, the base overheats. can this be fixed only by replacing the fan yourself? and what the manufacturer did not take into account!?
 
The original fan has dimensions 70x70x10 and is quite powerful for its size, you are unlikely to find a more powerful fan of the same size. Fan with a larger size will not fit into the base.
 
Hi Dom,

really appreciate the support and certainly few things make sense here but I just couldn't pass the initial disappointment so I am returning the thing sorry.
I hate to say this but I had a quality issue with the 1st rim (revstripe continuously flickering) on DAY1 and the 2nd unit I received had a small but noticeable dent on the revstripe and the left peddle shifter was sounding like half broken already whereas the right side was dead quiet.

Not to mention I was sent UK/EU power cords whereas I live in Japan.....

You have been supportive, your colleagues from FANATEC Sales team have helped as well but it was too much

will stop posting here so the thread can go back ON Topic

thanks all for your input anyway
 
Nolive721

Do not worry not one you have a problem with this wheel. I hear from friends about various problems on cheap wheels. it breaks the lipestki, the switching sound disappears, and everything is very poorly made in the interior. Sorry for such straightforwardness but this is a fact. I do not want to receive a warning. I just said my point of view and my friends.
 
Jeka_djonik
DomB_Fanatec
Hello. You can respond about the fact that the csl elite ps4 base has a weak fan installed in games like iracing with high ffb, the base overheats. can this be fixed only by replacing the fan yourself? and what the manufacturer did not take into account!?
Click to expand...
My response would be that your 'fact' is not a fact at all. It doesn't have a weak fan, and it doesn't overheat. Also iRacing doesn't have 'high FFB' compared to other sims. If iRacing's FFB feels stronger to you than other sims, then you are probably running it way too high, causing clipping, which would cause the motor to run at a higher temperature. This isn't recommended, simply because you aren't getting any FFB dynamics or detail if you run the wheel like this.

@nolive721 I'm sorry to hear that, but I'm glad that we were able to assist. Thanks for the feedback.

@Jeka_djonik Our lower priced products are still supposed to deliver a high level of quality and value, and you should expect to receive the same level of support as our high-end products if there are problems. I hope that you and your friends communicated with support to resolve any issues you might have. If you are still not satisfied, you should contact us again.
 
ANDRITSOULAS
There is a guy in facebook that can provide you with a 3dprinted mod for the back section of this wheel. With this mod you can bolt the Clubsport QR on the wheel and also upgrade the paddles with magnets. But you are out of waranty with this mod. I will pm him to make a thread here in the forum. It is a very good mod with positive reviews until now from the people who have bought it.
Click to expand...

This sounds interesting. And I have to say, it's about time people looked at modding Fanatec's products. Hopefully this picks up. There are some cool mods for Logitech's and Thrusty's wheels, where are the mods for Fanny's?

(Sorry Dom, this is probably nails on a chalk board to you.)
 
DomB_Fanatec
Hi Mr Sausage, that's an interesting question. You are correct in thinking that the original CSL E WB has DRI characteristics that are closer to the 911 series than the WB+ and V2.5 which have upgraded electronics. However, I wouldn't conclude that the CSL E WB is therefore more suited to Race 07 than the newer models. All three models would work well, and the WB+ and V2.5 simply give you a broader range of options to play with in regards to the DRI mode (if you like the feeling of DRI 003 on a CSL E WB, you'll probably like DRI -2 on a WB+ or V2.5).
Click to expand...

Thanks so much for the detailed reply Dom - I really appreciate it and it was very helpful.
 
DomB_Fanatec
My response would be that your 'fact' is not a fact at all. It doesn't have a weak fan, and it doesn't overheat. Also iRacing doesn't have 'high FFB' compared to other sims. If iRacing's FFB feels stronger to you than other sims, then you are probably running it way too high, causing clipping, which would cause the motor to run at a higher temperature. This isn't recommended, simply because you aren't getting any FFB dynamics or detail if you run the wheel like this.

@nolive721 I'm sorry to hear that, but I'm glad that we were able to assist. Thanks for the feedback.

@Jeka_djonik Our lower priced products are still supposed to deliver a high level of quality and value, and you should expect to receive the same level of support as our high-end products if there are problems. I hope that you and your friends communicated with support to resolve any issues you might have. If you are still not satisfied, you should contact us again.
Click to expand...
honestly I have appreciated the time you spent to sort my CSL elite out.

I have just quickly set my TS PC racer last night and the 1st impressions were a more reactive type of steering compared to the CSL Elite+P1.

the Engineer in me who graduated 25yrs ago still believe that the extra mass of the P1 vs the P1 Elite would have made this sluggish feeling apparent sorry again to mention that.

that and the fact that the TM Open Rim type I am getting with the TS PC wheel has a smaller diameter so reducing rotating inertia certainly helped as well

Yet, I am stuck with the pedals because I cant use my FANATEC CSR now since I believe they cant be connected to the PC directly so I am leaning towards the CSL Elite standard at 1st before upgrading to the LC at some point.You see there will be still some part of FANATEC ecosystem in my set-up lol)
 
Hey. Stumbled into one community in the photo mounting pedals!
Tell me please, if you put the pedals this way, what can you count on? Is it possible to break them this way or not?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20190203_191420.jpg
    IMG_20190203_191420.jpg
    92.6 KB · Views: 70
DomB_Fanatec
The CSL Elite Pedals are designed with this in mind - you can hard-mount each pedal separately without the use of the heel plate.
Click to expand...
Many thanks for your reply. I really appreciate it !! I understood you correctly that it is possible to mount the pedals and use them. And where the protrusions are round that are inserted into the stand as far as they are firmly made.
 
I must resist, the Fanatec Xbox one competition pack keeps talking to me through various websites.

I need a new car 1st.

I don't need a DD wheel while I'm on a 1X but the more I read about that Clubsport V2.5 the more I want one.
 
Mr Grumpy
I must resist, the Fanatec Xbox one competition pack keeps talking to me through various websites.

I need a new car 1st.

I don't need a DD wheel while I'm on a 1X but the more I read about that Clubsport V2.5 the more I want one.
Click to expand...

Stop searching it and google will stop following you around the internet with Fanatec adverts. :)
 

Similar threads

G
CSL Elite Steering Wheel - Headphone socket ?
Replies
1
Views
708
Abarth_71
Abarth_71
A
Building my first rig - Fanatec GT3RS Wheel/CSL Elite pedals... need help!
Replies
5
Views
672
alexb9971
A
DiogoFilipe
Fanatec DD Pro with WRC Wheel works on g7?
Replies
4
Views
4K
Daz555
D
super_gt
Fanatec ClubSport Magnetic Paddle Module
Replies
5
Views
4K
Rob Brown
Rob Brown
Q
Fanatec Clubsport Porsche 911 GT3 Wheel with Drive Hub unit for PS Elite CSL Inquiry
Replies
1
Views
1K
super_gt
super_gt

Latest Posts

Back