I would like to order a replacement fan for my CSR-E, can someone tell me what the spec of the fan are, the size and the voltage?
Its an 80mm 24VDC 0.1AI would like to order a replacement fan for my CSR-E, can someone tell me what the spec of the fan are, the size and the voltage?
Its an 80mm 24VDC 0.1A
If at all possible, any chance you could take a picture of the plugs that go to the rim from the main PCB, when you change the fan?
Are you sure it is 80, not 70mm? I found a post in this thread saying 70mm. How about thickness, I have not found any reference. Is 20 mm too much, particularly with the buehler being bigger?
Yes, I will be glad to take and post a picture of the plug when I open the wheel again.
80x80x15 mm outside dimensions of fan, theres about a 4mm gap between the fan and the buehlers, so maybe a 20mm thick fan could squeeze in there, but it would be VERY tight. 8015L24S ND1 is the number on the fan
Even though you have continuity to the pins sticking through the pcb, the solder joints connecting the pins to the pcb could be broken or the traces in the board adjacent could be broken (which wouldn't show on your test). Try following a trace from the pins to the next location and test each from there to see if you still have continuity. Hopefully it's just the solder joints which reheating and reflowing the solder could fix.Hi esteemed Fanatec gurus, I just got my Clubsport Wheel Base (ie v1) on ebay and all was working with my PC until I bolted it down to my desk without realising it should have a 90 degree USB B cable. So the USB cable was forced upwards hard into the socket and now the wheel base is no longer recognised when I connect it to the PC.
I've checked the cable by connecting my Fanatec pedals to my PC with it and they are recognised in device manager immediately. I've tested with my multimeter that all 4 pins at the USB A end of the cable are connecting to the soldered pins on the PCB under the USB B socket on the wheel base correctly and none is shorted to any other (and pin 4 is grounded to the cable shield) so I don't think the USB B socket is broken. Am I looking at a replacement PCB or is there anything else I can try? The wheel base powers on and spins for calibration, the fan runs and the rim seems to be connected and powered ok.
Hi all, hoping someone can help. I've been lurking through the thread and couldn't find an answer.
I have a Fanatec GT3RS wheel with what seems to be a broken zero/calibration sensor and some other issues. The wheel turns all the way right, then all the way left and stays there. I can manually take hold of it and pull it back, at which point it will loosen and I can manually set the centre using the buttons.
However, the fun doesn't stop there. If I boot up AC and take a few laps, my first 1-2 laps the wheel will lose its centre, usually mid-turn or if there is an impact. I will reset the centre again. The weird thing is, after that it will run for hours with no problem. It's also now permanently rotated an extra 90 degrees clockwise... ie. my right 'stop' is 540 degrees right of centre, the left stop is 360 degrees left of centre.
I've tried replacing the code wheel sensor, cleaning the inside with an air duster to no avail. Tried different firmware versions with similar behaviour - on 681 it will display '888' on bootup, on 756 it displays nothing. Also tried playing with the settings, turning everything off, turning sensitivity all the way down, all the way up to no avail.
[QUOTE = "eKretz, post: 9347120, membro: 234330"] Alguém já se perguntou como seria se seu Fanatec CSW explodisse? : D
Socorro. Oi como você está? Gostaria de saber sobre medição de polia fanatec e também medição de polia de motor. Poderia indicar qual motor para ffb.com que mede farei a polia agadeco se puder me ajudar
the error and google translator sorry
Hey guys. Great thread.
Wondered if you can help - I replaced the bearings and belts on my V1 CSW today, but unfortunatley I fecked up the silver reducer pulley. Pressing in the new bearing and POP the centre cracked and bent.
Does anyone have a spare I can buy? The big silver one, on the left hand side of the unit when looking from the front.
Hi, hoping someone can help.
I bought a used Elite wheelbase around a year ago to keep as a spare, never really tried it out for the first three months, then when i did i found it had a calibration issue.
As soon as the locating pin goes through the sensor the calibration will reset to that point, if i move the wheel slow and consistantly it will work fine, but any sharp movement or fast turning the wheel will reset everytime, and always when the pin goes through the sensor. I have replaced both sensors with new from Fanatec and still have the same issue, any ideas or suggestions on what may be the cause.
Thanks in advance.
I've sent mine for repair(same problem) and the problem was the sensor, you can see the faulty piece attached.Sorry for knocking old thread, but does anyone know why or how to fix csr elite losing centre all the time?
I opened it once clean sensor and sensor reading wheel with alcohol and press some of the connectors.
It seems to fix it for months, I unplug wheel and store for month, take it out and use it again no has the same problem.
But the cleaning process isn't working this time. thx.
Hi Danjee,Just did the mod this weekend. I machined costum cooler bodys for the moders. Everything sits really tight, was a little pain.
Wheel feels great with the LRS-350-24 power supply, much stronger feedback and it reacts much faster.
Somehow got the problem thet the fans are not working anymore.
The fan ports get 28V, but as soon as i connect a fan the port drops to 0V.
Maybe someone can help me here a little ?
The fans are working with the power supply so i connected them to 24V they always run at max now.
Motors stayed cool after 3 laps on Nordschleife ~35°C (95°F)
I got used motors for 30€ each + 30€ power supply + connectors etc --> 100€ (without the machined parts)