Fanatec CSW/CSR Elite Modders Thread *UPDATE February 2014*

  • Thread starter eKretz
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Its an 80mm 24VDC 0.1A
8015l24s

If at all possible, any chance you could take a picture of the plugs that go to the rim from the main PCB, when you change the fan?

Are you sure it is 80, not 70mm? I found a post in this thread saying 70mm. How about thickness, I have not found any reference. Is 20 mm too much, particularly with the buehler being bigger?

Yes, I will be glad to take and post a picture of the plug when I open the wheel again.
 
Are you sure it is 80, not 70mm? I found a post in this thread saying 70mm. How about thickness, I have not found any reference. Is 20 mm too much, particularly with the buehler being bigger?

Yes, I will be glad to take and post a picture of the plug when I open the wheel again.

80x80x15 mm outside dimensions of fan, theres about a 4mm gap between the fan and the buehlers, so maybe a 20mm thick fan could squeeze in there, but it would be VERY tight. 8015L24S ND1 is the number on the fan
 
80x80x15 mm outside dimensions of fan, theres about a 4mm gap between the fan and the buehlers, so maybe a 20mm thick fan could squeeze in there, but it would be VERY tight. 8015L24S ND1 is the number on the fan

Thank you 88x80x15 it will be.
I should receive this next week or the following, I will send a picture when I am about to change the fan.
 
Two convenience issues:
Standard CSL Elite Wheel
1. The shifter pedals are pretty far away for my fingers. Any ideas on how to mod that?
2. The buttons are all unreachable in my driving position. Are there any mod ideas for that?

One solution for the standard Brake Pedal:
I put a screwdriver bit right in the middle of the foam bumper thing. Has exactly the required length, about 3cm.
Now I have a perfect hard stop at the end. No more calibration problems.
 
Hi esteemed Fanatec gurus, I just got my Clubsport Wheel Base (ie v1) on ebay and all was working with my PC until I bolted it down to my desk without realising it should have a 90 degree USB B cable. So the USB cable was forced upwards hard into the socket and now the wheel base is no longer recognised when I connect it to the PC.
I've checked the cable by connecting my Fanatec pedals to my PC with it and they are recognised in device manager immediately. I've tested with my multimeter that all 4 pins at the USB A end of the cable are connecting to the soldered pins on the PCB under the USB B socket on the wheel base correctly and none is shorted to any other (and pin 4 is grounded to the cable shield) so I don't think the USB B socket is broken. Am I looking at a replacement PCB or is there anything else I can try? The wheel base powers on and spins for calibration, the fan runs and the rim seems to be connected and powered ok.
 
Hi esteemed Fanatec gurus, I just got my Clubsport Wheel Base (ie v1) on ebay and all was working with my PC until I bolted it down to my desk without realising it should have a 90 degree USB B cable. So the USB cable was forced upwards hard into the socket and now the wheel base is no longer recognised when I connect it to the PC.
I've checked the cable by connecting my Fanatec pedals to my PC with it and they are recognised in device manager immediately. I've tested with my multimeter that all 4 pins at the USB A end of the cable are connecting to the soldered pins on the PCB under the USB B socket on the wheel base correctly and none is shorted to any other (and pin 4 is grounded to the cable shield) so I don't think the USB B socket is broken. Am I looking at a replacement PCB or is there anything else I can try? The wheel base powers on and spins for calibration, the fan runs and the rim seems to be connected and powered ok.
Even though you have continuity to the pins sticking through the pcb, the solder joints connecting the pins to the pcb could be broken or the traces in the board adjacent could be broken (which wouldn't show on your test). Try following a trace from the pins to the next location and test each from there to see if you still have continuity. Hopefully it's just the solder joints which reheating and reflowing the solder could fix.
Good luck.
 
Hi all, hoping someone can help. I've been lurking through the thread and couldn't find an answer.

I have a Fanatec GT3RS wheel with what seems to be a broken zero/calibration sensor and some other issues. The wheel turns all the way right, then all the way left and stays there. I can manually take hold of it and pull it back, at which point it will loosen and I can manually set the centre using the buttons.

However, the fun doesn't stop there. If I boot up AC and take a few laps, my first 1-2 laps the wheel will lose its centre, usually mid-turn or if there is an impact. I will reset the centre again. The weird thing is, after that it will run for hours with no problem. It's also now permanently rotated an extra 90 degrees clockwise... ie. my right 'stop' is 540 degrees right of centre, the left stop is 360 degrees left of centre.

I've tried replacing the code wheel sensor, cleaning the inside with an air duster to no avail. Tried different firmware versions with similar behaviour - on 681 it will display '888' on bootup, on 756 it displays nothing. Also tried playing with the settings, turning everything off, turning sensitivity all the way down, all the way up to no avail.

Any ideas?
 
[QUOTE = "eKretz, post: 9347120, membro: 234330"] Alguém já se perguntou como seria se seu Fanatec CSW explodisse? : D

[/ CITAR]
Socorro. Oi como você está? Gostaria de saber sobre medição de polia fanatec e também medição de polia de motor. Poderia indicar qual motor para ffb.com que mede farei a polia agadeco se puder me ajudar
the error and google translator sorry
 

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Hi all, hoping someone can help. I've been lurking through the thread and couldn't find an answer.

I have a Fanatec GT3RS wheel with what seems to be a broken zero/calibration sensor and some other issues. The wheel turns all the way right, then all the way left and stays there. I can manually take hold of it and pull it back, at which point it will loosen and I can manually set the centre using the buttons.

However, the fun doesn't stop there. If I boot up AC and take a few laps, my first 1-2 laps the wheel will lose its centre, usually mid-turn or if there is an impact. I will reset the centre again. The weird thing is, after that it will run for hours with no problem. It's also now permanently rotated an extra 90 degrees clockwise... ie. my right 'stop' is 540 degrees right of centre, the left stop is 360 degrees left of centre.

I've tried replacing the code wheel sensor, cleaning the inside with an air duster to no avail. Tried different firmware versions with similar behaviour - on 681 it will display '888' on bootup, on 756 it displays nothing. Also tried playing with the settings, turning everything off, turning sensitivity all the way down, all the way up to no avail.

Any ideas?

Try a new motor if you can find one. That will get you both the encoder wheel and sensor replaced. Sounds like you have a problem with either one or the other. There is a small possibly that it could be a wire connection issue too, so at least try unplugging and reconnecting any connections from the sensor to the main pcb.
 
[QUOTE = "eKretz, post: 9347120, membro: 234330"] Alguém já se perguntou como seria se seu Fanatec CSW explodisse? : D

[/ CITAR]
Socorro. Oi como você está? Gostaria de saber sobre medição de polia fanatec e também medição de polia de motor. Poderia indicar qual motor para ffb.com que mede farei a polia agadeco se puder me ajudar
the error and google translator sorry

Here is what I got from Google Translate:

"Help. Hi how are you? I would like to know about fanatec pulley measurement and also motor pulley measurement. Could you indicate which engine for ffb.com that measures I will make the pulley agadeco if you can help me"

I am not exactly sure what you're asking for but would be happy to help if I can. Do you just need dimensions of the motor pulleys?
 
Hello!!
My csl elite ps4 DRIVER LASTES 373
AND raccomanded Fanatec settings {GT SPORT,.DIRT RALLY 2.0) . Everything was perfect till few days ago, while I was driving normally the wheel suddenly lost power in the forcefeedback in corners, low vibrate on straights, and when in corners seemed like the belts jerked. I also noticed that it seems not to have the smooth and quite operation then before. When I turn the wheel I hear and feel a gear/belt rotation sound wich I don't remember before.

I also tried to reinstall and update everything but with no luck.
I TRY 10 different drivers but not good. Afzer updating and trying different drivers wheel feel always the same. Wheel feel really hard and pulling amd jave sone fast moves. I dont have feel too road and car doesnt hsve grip. Itss impossible to race..
ANY SOLUTION WOULD BE FINE
 
[QUOTE = "eKretz, post: 13237239, membro: 234330"] Aqui está o que recebi do Google Tradutor:

"Socorro. Olá, como vai? Gostaria de saber sobre a medição de polia fanatec e também mensurar de polia do motor. Você poderia indicar qual motor para ffb.com que mede farei a polia agadeco se você puder me ajudar"

Não tenho certeza do que você está pedindo, mas ficaria feliz em ajudar, se puder. Você só precisa das dimensões das polias do motor? [/ QUOTE]
[QUOTE = "eKretz, post: 13237239, membro: 234330"] Aqui está o que recebi do Google Tradutor:

"Socorro. Olá, como vai? Gostaria de saber sobre medição de polia fanatec e também medição de polia do motor. Você poderia indicar qual motor para ffb.com que mede farei a polia agadeco se você puder me ajudar"

Não tenho certeza do que você está pedindo, mas ficaria feliz em ajudar, se puder. Você só precisa das dimensões das polias do motor? [/ QUOTE]



yes the 3 pulleys
 
Hey guys. Great thread.

Wondered if you can help - I replaced the bearings and belts on my V1 CSW today, but unfortunatley I fecked up the silver reducer pulley. Pressing in the new bearing and POP the centre cracked and bent. :(

Does anyone have a spare I can buy? The big silver one, on the left hand side of the unit when looking from the front.

Cheers!
 
Hi, hoping someone can help.

I bought a used Elite wheelbase around a year ago to keep as a spare, never really tried it out for the first three months, then when i did i found it had a calibration issue.
As soon as the locating pin goes through the sensor the calibration will reset to that point, if i move the wheel slow and consistantly it will work fine, but any sharp movement or fast turning the wheel will reset everytime, and always when the pin goes through the sensor. I have replaced both sensors with new from Fanatec and still have the same issue, any ideas or suggestions on what may be the cause.

Thanks in advance.
 
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Hi!
Sorry, my english so weak!

I have a Fanatec CSR
I use 32V DC, but run normally and stronger like 24V
Once the wheel shut down.
Turn off, turn on, but the wheel shut down power supply.
I remove a 19N20C MOSfet, and the wheel run again.

I play Dirt Rally, the wheel force feedback is LOST!
Turn off , turn on.. Self-Diagnostic don't work.
But manually 450° and center, wheel OK, connect PC. Motor not work.

I installed new Mosfet, new 3 condenser
But Fail. What's the problem ?
Please Help Me!
Thank you!
Mark from Hungary
 
Hey guys. Great thread.

Wondered if you can help - I replaced the bearings and belts on my V1 CSW today, but unfortunatley I fecked up the silver reducer pulley. Pressing in the new bearing and POP the centre cracked and bent. :(

Does anyone have a spare I can buy? The big silver one, on the left hand side of the unit when looking from the front.

Cheers!

Did you try Fanatec to check for parts availability? You could easily have one made at a machine shop but it would not be cheap for a single pulley.
 
NLO
Hi, hoping someone can help.

I bought a used Elite wheelbase around a year ago to keep as a spare, never really tried it out for the first three months, then when i did i found it had a calibration issue.
As soon as the locating pin goes through the sensor the calibration will reset to that point, if i move the wheel slow and consistantly it will work fine, but any sharp movement or fast turning the wheel will reset everytime, and always when the pin goes through the sensor. I have replaced both sensors with new from Fanatec and still have the same issue, any ideas or suggestions on what may be the cause.

Thanks in advance.

Unless something is not making good contact somewhere when it's plugged in and had an intermittent connection, I'm scratching my head.
 
Everything seems to do as you would expect until you try to use it as you would, i guess my last resort would be a replacement controller board.
Anyone know of one for sale or does anyone have one they would like to sell?

Thanks in advance
 
Sorry for knocking old thread, but does anyone know why or how to fix csr elite losing centre all the time?
I opened it once clean sensor and sensor reading wheel with alcohol and press some of the connectors.
It seems to fix it for months, I unplug wheel and store for month, take it out and use it again no has the same problem.
But the cleaning process isn't working this time. thx.
 
Sorry for knocking old thread, but does anyone know why or how to fix csr elite losing centre all the time?
I opened it once clean sensor and sensor reading wheel with alcohol and press some of the connectors.
It seems to fix it for months, I unplug wheel and store for month, take it out and use it again no has the same problem.
But the cleaning process isn't working this time. thx.
I've sent mine for repair(same problem) and the problem was the sensor, you can see the faulty piece attached.

You can buy the same one of CSW V1, it's the same one.
 

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I bought a CSR Elite, it was dirt cheap and works perfectly, I plan on giving it to my nephew. Will it work with the newest xbox Series X?
Thanks in advance.
 
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Just did the mod this weekend. I machined costum cooler bodys for the moders. Everything sits really tight, was a little pain.

Wheel feels great with the LRS-350-24 power supply, much stronger feedback and it reacts much faster.

Somehow got the problem thet the fans are not working anymore.
The fan ports get 28V, but as soon as i connect a fan the port drops to 0V.
Maybe someone can help me here a little ?

The fans are working with the power supply so i connected them to 24V they always run at max now.
Motors stayed cool after 3 laps on Nordschleife ~35°C (95°F)

I got used motors for 30€ each + 30€ power supply + connectors etc --> 100€ (without the machined parts)
 

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Hi guys,

I just cleaned up my cellar and found two new/unused Bühler motors which were remaining from the 4 I purchased in 2016
when I modded my CSR Elite wheel (see page 116 in this thread). I bought them as spare motors in case they would fail.
Well, the wheel is still running since then without any problems - no need to keep them as spares! :D

My friend just bought a direct drive wheel (Fanatec CSL DD) and told me that in comparison to my CSR Elite the CSL DD is a bit
smoother and more refined but from the force the CSR Elite is absolute comparable!!!
I run my wheel (in the wheel settings itself) at 80% as more let´s the driver board of the motors inside the wheel get warm.
As already said, since 2016 I´m running the motors at 80% at the wheel - bulletproof!
I even turn down the FFB in the game to 80% as my arms hurt/fatigue when I´m driving long races.

The PSU is a Meanwell 24V/15A, I have added a second big fan and two smaller ones inside the wheel and upgraded the heatsinks
with better compound as eKretz suggested and an air cooling (which might be overkill).

Attached you´ll find a picture of the motors and a picture of my wheel (looks a bit different now).

The pulleys on the motors which moves the belt have to be drilled/reamed a little bit as the motor shaft is thicker as the original
one and on the brush side you have to saw off the shaft to make it fit into the wheel housing.

Now I would like to offer these two motors to a racer who wants to mod his CSR Elite/CSW and is looking for those.
Price would be 80€ for both plus shipping costs, payable via PayPal.

If you are interested give me a sign and I will contact you.

Happy modding,
 

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Just did the mod this weekend. I machined costum cooler bodys for the moders. Everything sits really tight, was a little pain.

Wheel feels great with the LRS-350-24 power supply, much stronger feedback and it reacts much faster.

Somehow got the problem thet the fans are not working anymore.
The fan ports get 28V, but as soon as i connect a fan the port drops to 0V.
Maybe someone can help me here a little ?

The fans are working with the power supply so i connected them to 24V they always run at max now.
Motors stayed cool after 3 laps on Nordschleife ~35°C (95°F)

I got used motors for 30€ each + 30€ power supply + connectors etc --> 100€ (without the machined parts)
Hi Danjee,

I have connected my fans to an external PSU/wallwart where I can even reduce the voltage
I also wanted to keep them separate from the wheel PSU. Replaced the original fans with
12 V models which I run @9 V.

My wheel power supply is adjusted to 26.5 V (maximum what could be done), maybe the fans don't like
overvoltage?

Great job done, I really like your aluminum bracket you made for the motors!
With the motors and the bracket this wheel will surely last for long!

Cheers,
 
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I used my eKretz Buhler motored CSR-E until around 2015 then moved the motors to a used CSW V1 which was the wheel I used to race daily on PC until 2023. Then I decided to get a PS5 & PSVR2 to play GT7 so had to retire the CSW-1 and buy a DD Pro. I certainly got my monies worth out of the wheel and eKtrez's motor mod!
 
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