Fanatec Gran Turismo DD Extreme Wheel

[hrtrob]

I'm using the McLaren GT3 V2 Wheel.
I haven't attached the Extreme Wheel yet.
Very very smooth QRShaft Rotation.
Tuning Menu works too.
And the FFB feels silky smooth and very powerful.
No notchiness.
My Extreme Wheel already has the latest Firmware installed though (1.0.0.7) so basically it should work hassle free.

My Wheelbase though won't get touched... 😅

Yeah, I didn’t have any problems with my McLaren, V2.5, Podium + PBME and CS Hub V2 on that old DD+ firmware. Only with the Extreme wheel. Let us know if you get weak FFB and notchiness with it, I’m curious if it’s because of the wheel, WQR or base firmware

 

[Jules_r]

I have a question for Extreme owners please, how does your OLED look?

The day I got mine I thought it was rather dim, and I still do. Looking through the ITM menus today I can hardly see them.

Not only that, when various alerts are displayed they look kind of dirty and messy, hard to explain but I have pictures and a video. I'm sure when I got it they didn't look like they do now. (my wheel is in quite a dark corner of the room)

Firmware wise I had to update it to 455 out of the box because until I did nothing worked, but since then, as it seems to be working fine, I haven't touched it.

 

[Kriptical]

I have a question for Extreme owners please, how does your OLED look?

The day I got mine I thought it was rather dim, and I still do. Looking through the ITM menus today I can hardly see them.

Not only that, when various alerts are displayed they look kind of dirty and messy, hard to explain but I have pictures and a video. I'm sure when I got it they didn't look like they do now. (my wheel is in quite a dark corner of the room)

Firmware wise I had to update it to 455 out of the box because until I did nothing worked, but since then, as it seems to be working fine, I haven't touched it.

Your screens definitely borked.

Kinda looks like fed ex drop kicked it onto your porch

 

[PirovacBoy]

I have a question for Extreme owners please, how does your OLED look?

The day I got mine I thought it was rather dim, and I still do. Looking through the ITM menus today I can hardly see them.

Not only that, when various alerts are displayed they look kind of dirty and messy, hard to explain but I have pictures and a video. I'm sure when I got it they didn't look like they do now. (my wheel is in quite a dark corner of the room)

Firmware wise I had to update it to 455 out of the box because until I did nothing worked, but since then, as it seems to be working fine, I haven't touched it.

That screen doesn't look right.
Is it like that on every game?
The most recent Wheel FW is included in Driver Package 457.
It's 1.0.7.0 for the Extreme Wheel.

It seems to have lots of pixel faults.
Definitely not what it should look like.

 

[Jules_r]

Is it like that on every game?

I only play Turismo so I don't know.
I think I'll update firmware on everything, and if it's still the same, which I suspect it will be, I'll contact Fanatec.
Thanks for the info guy's!

 

[PirovacBoy]

I only play Turismo so I don't know.
I think I'll update firmware on everything, and if it's still the same, which I suspect it will be, I'll contact Fanatec.
Thanks for the info guy's!

If you decide to update, try the Wheel only first.
If your Base doesn't suffer of any issue, keep it as it is.

 

[Jules_r]

If you decide to update, try the Wheel only first.
If your Base doesn't suffer of any issue, keep it as it is.

Thanks dude.... I would imagine if I have to contact Fanatec the first thing they will ask is if all firmware is up to date.
I will try the wheel first though, thanks for the good advice!

 

[Skinny McLean]

Thanks dude.... I would imagine if I have to contact Fanatec the first thing they will ask is if all firmware is up to date.
I will try the wheel first though, thanks for the good advice!

The wheel is definitely broken. Stop wasting time and file a support ticket ASAP.

 

[bodobear]

I'm using the McLaren GT3 V2 Wheel.
I haven't attached the Extreme Wheel yet.
Very very smooth QRShaft Rotation.
Tuning Menu works too.
And the FFB feels silky smooth and very powerful.
No notchiness.
My Extreme Wheel already has the latest Firmware installed though (1.0.0.7) so basically it should work hassle free.

My Wheelbase though won't get touched... 😅

Nice to hear you got your replacement base and everything is working again !!
Finally I got everything like you recommended for my PS5 GT7 setup.. DD+ with McLaren GT3 V2 and Elite Pedal V2 installed on a Next Level Wheelstand 2.0. It´s my first racing wheel and I don´t know anything about all the settings and where to start. Is there a tutorial somewhere how to setup the GT3 wheel and the best settings for that setup ? I guess I can do the settings directly on the wheel and in GT7 or do I have to connect the base to the PC every time ? Are you using differnt settings for each game saved on the wheel as presets ? And where do you calibrate the wheel and the pedals ? Sorry to ask so many newbie questions but maybe you know a good beginner tutorial or have some hints for the best settings.
I´m blown away about the built quality of all the hardware. Can´t wait to drive the first rounds with it.
If you like we could connect on PSN ? Bodobear70 is my PSN. Grüße aus Saarbrücken !

 

[911RSR]

No need to do it on a PC, you can do it right on the wheel and in the game.
Here you find the recommended settings from Fanatec for GT7. In this forum you'll find settings for almost any game.
Viel Spaß mit dem Wheel!

 

[PirovacBoy]

Nice to hear you got your replacement base and everything is working again !!
Finally I got everything like you recommended for my PS5 GT7 setup.. DD+ with McLaren GT3 V2 and Elite Pedal V2 installed on a Next Level Wheelstand 2.0. It´s my first racing wheel and I don´t know anything about all the settings and where to start. Is there a tutorial somewhere how to setup the GT3 wheel and the best settings for that setup ? I guess I can do the settings directly on the wheel and in GT7 or do I have to connect the base to the PC every time ? Are you using differnt settings for each game saved on the wheel as presets ? And where do you calibrate the wheel and the pedals ? Sorry to ask so many newbie questions but maybe you know a good beginner tutorial or have some hints for the best settings.
I´m blown away about the built quality of all the hardware. Can´t wait to drive the first rounds with it.
If you like we could connect on PSN ? Bodobear70 is my PSN. Grüße aus Saarbrücken !

Send me a friend request on psn.
I'll explain everything to you in voice chat. 🙂

 

[bodobear]

Send me a friend request on psn.
I'll explain everything to you in voice chat. 🙂

Great, I will do that ! Thanks in advance !

 

[bodobear]

No need to do it on a PC, you can do it right on the wheel and in the game.
Here you find the recommended settings from Fanatec for GT7. In this forum you'll find settings for almost any game.
Viel Spaß mit dem Wheel!

Thank you ! Very nice you are all helping each other here.. Dankeschön und Grüße aus dem Saarland

 

[BWX]

Well Fanatec contacted me, my GT DD X might be going back for RMA. I did notice a coil whine when I turned off my PC and everything that makes noise in the room, but it's not loud, and I did have lots of freezes and disconnects even though it's running ok now if I don't put PS5 in rest mode and use front USB port and use 457 drivers but that hotfix driver for wheelbase. But I'm just waiting for the next freeze or disconnect.

I'm not sure if it's as smooth as it's supposed to be or not, it's hard to tell. It's not perfectly smooth, there is some "graininess" but not sure if that's normal or if it's supposed to be like completely buttery smooth. My wheel creeks and flexes quite a bit and the display has loud coil whine when booting up and most of the display is lit up but then goes away. 🤷‍♂️ I think they want to test the base. It'll be interesting to see the difference between this and a new one though!

 

[Kriptical]

Well Fanatec contacted me, my GT DD X might be going back for RMA. I did notice a coil whine when I turned off my PC and everything that makes noise in the room, but it's not loud, and I did have lots of freezes and disconnects even though it's running ok now if I don't put PS5 in rest mode and use front USB port and use 457 drivers but that hotfix driver for wheelbase. But I'm just waiting for the next freeze or disconnect.

I'm not sure if it's as smooth as it's supposed to be or not, it's hard to tell. It's not perfectly smooth, there is some "graininess" but not sure if that's normal or if it's supposed to be like completely buttery smooth. My wheel creeks and flexes quite a bit and the display has loud coil whine when booting up and most of the display is lit up but then goes away. 🤷‍♂️ I think they want to test the base. It'll be interesting to see the difference between this and a new one though!

View attachment 1356348

Looking forward to hearing about its return.

 

[Oi Oi JC]

Well Fanatec contacted me, my GT DD X might be going back for RMA. I did notice a coil whine when I turned off my PC and everything that makes noise in the room, but it's not loud, and I did have lots of freezes and disconnects even though it's running ok now if I don't put PS5 in rest mode and use front USB port and use 457 drivers but that hotfix driver for wheelbase. But I'm just waiting for the next freeze or disconnect.

I'm not sure if it's as smooth as it's supposed to be or not, it's hard to tell. It's not perfectly smooth, there is some "graininess" but not sure if that's normal or if it's supposed to be like completely buttery smooth. My wheel creeks and flexes quite a bit and the display has loud coil whine when booting up and most of the display is lit up but then goes away. 🤷‍♂️ I think they want to test the base. It'll be interesting to see the difference between this and a new one though!

View attachment 1356348

My base has developed coil whine, I'm on 457 but I might roll it back to see if it fixes it.

My base also isn't buttery smooth, if I move it gently it feels a little grainy but when moving it normally it is smooth. I'm pretty sure it should be smooth all the time, my Logitech G Pro is silky smooth.

I might just RMA mine to see if I get a better one.

 

[BWX]

My base has developed coil whine, I'm on 457 but I might roll it back to see if it fixes it.

My base also isn't buttery smooth, if I move it gently it feels a little grainy but when moving it normally it is smooth. I'm pretty sure it should be smooth all the time, my Logitech G Pro is silky smooth.

I might just RMA mine to see if I get a better one.

Yeah my extreme is definitely smoother than my Pro 8nm, just hard to tell if it's as smooth as it's supposed to be because nothing to compare it against. For me 457 drivers with that hotfix is the most stable. And not using rest mode on PS5, and front USB. But it seems like I've had so many freezes and disconnects that there must be something messed up with it when other people have had none or very few with same drivers I was using before.

Most stable for me (no issues so far):
GT DD X, PS5, PSVR2 -

Driver 457

Wheelbase FW 2.1.0.4 "CS_DD_v2.1.0.4_hotfix_disconnection_issue_test_release.eff" manually installed after installing all 457 drivers.

Wheel FW 1.0.7.0 (457)

Wireless QR FW 1.1.0.1 (457)

 

[FMW]

Well Fanatec contacted me, my GT DD X might be going back for RMA. I did notice a coil whine when I turned off my PC and everything that makes noise in the room, but it's not loud, and I did have lots of freezes and disconnects even though it's running ok now if I don't put PS5 in rest mode and use front USB port and use 457 drivers but that hotfix driver for wheelbase. But I'm just waiting for the next freeze or disconnect.

I'm not sure if it's as smooth as it's supposed to be or not, it's hard to tell. It's not perfectly smooth, there is some "graininess" but not sure if that's normal or if it's supposed to be like completely buttery smooth. My wheel creeks and flexes quite a bit and the display has loud coil whine when booting up and most of the display is lit up but then goes away. 🤷‍♂️ I think they want to test the base. It'll be interesting to see the difference between this and a new one though!

View attachment 1356348

I'm curious as well to see if your replacement base is any different in terms of base coil whine. I submitted a ticket on March 8 about my bases coil whine. Like your base, not only does my base have it, but it has that same "grainy" feel. Is that normal? I'd sure like to know, but nobody from Fanatec has bothered to answer my support ticket. I've since submitted a second ticket 9 weeks after the first. Maybe they'll answer that one? Suffice it to say, their support ticket system is broken. You follow the instructions, but when you enter "Submit" you get the error "MUST FILL IN SUBJECT FIELD" even though one was entered. It took 5 tries until I finally got the "A ticket for this product has already been submitted. Anyway, I digress.... Other than that, the base works perfectly fine on firmware 457 with no disconnects whatsoever. And speaking of disconnects, I have a theory to what may be happening to those who have it.
The theory is...PlayStation uses a security chip and protocol for it's "official" products. When you plug in a supported hardware device, there's a "handshake" between the console and the peripheral. From what I've been told, this handshake is not a one time deal. The console will periodically check for the "handshake" while the system is on to make sure everything is on on up and up. For those of you who may be familiar with the Cronus Max device from Collective Minds, it allowed you to use "non-licensed" devices on your PlayStation. I for one used one of these things for several years. It allowed me to use my then Fanatec Club Sport 2.0 belt drive base (Not Supported nor licensed by Sony) to work on my PS4. You simply plugged in your base to the Cronus Max and a slave PS controller to it. The Cronus would then plug into the PlayStation. The SONY PS controller would serve as the "security chip" bypass. It surprisingly worked well and for me it worked like a charm until I got into league racing. That's when I noticed "input lag". Anyway, it worked. Every once and a while, Cronus had to update their box to fix issues that arose with SONY PlayStation firmware updates as well as improving game functionality. One of these updates related to how Sony arbitrarily changed the "handshake test". Cronus figured out what they did and thusly fixed their box when people where having disconnect issues. This all leads to my theory. I think it's possible that FANATEC and however they and Sony are dealing with the "handshake" is either broken, glitched or something. Maybe there's a batch of faulty security chips in these bases? Sony, supplied them to FANATEC, so maybe a bad batch? The disconnect issue that people are reporting is different from disconnect issues I've encountered with my DD PRO. When that thing disconnected, you had to REBOOT the base and or the PlayStation as well. From what, I've read, the disconnect issues here, the base momentarily disconnects, then comes back.

Anyway, it's just a theory. I'm just glad mine doesn't have that issue. I just wish someone at FANATEC would answer my coil whine ticket. LOL

 

[BWX]

I'm curious as well to see if your replacement base is any different in terms of base coil whine. I submitted a ticket on March 8 about my bases coil whine. Like your base, not only does my base have it, but it has that same "grainy" feel. Is that normal? I'd sure like to know, but nobody from Fanatec has bothered to answer my support ticket. I've since submitted a second ticket 9 weeks after the first. Maybe they'll answer that one? Suffice it to say, their support ticket system is broken. You follow the instructions, but when you enter "Submit" you get the error "MUST FILL IN SUBJECT FIELD" even though one was entered. It took 5 tries until I finally got the "A ticket for this product has already been submitted. Anyway, I digress.... Other than that, the base works perfectly fine on firmware 457 with no disconnects whatsoever. And speaking of disconnects, I have a theory to what may be happening to those who have it.
The theory is...PlayStation uses a security chip and protocol for it's "official" products. When you plug in a supported hardware device, there's a "handshake" between the console and the peripheral. From what I've been told, this handshake is not a one time deal. The console will periodically check for the "handshake" while the system is on to make sure everything is on on up and up. For those of you who may be familiar with the Cronus Max device from Collective Minds, it allowed you to use "non-licensed" devices on your PlayStation. I for one used one of these things for several years. It allowed me to use my then Fanatec Club Sport 2.0 belt drive base (Not Supported nor licensed by Sony) to work on my PS4. You simply plugged in your base to the Cronus Max and a slave PS controller to it. The Cronus would then plug into the PlayStation. The SONY PS controller would serve as the "security chip" bypass. It surprisingly worked well and for me it worked like a charm until I got into league racing. That's when I noticed "input lag". Anyway, it worked. Every once and a while, Cronus had to update their box to fix issues that arose with SONY PlayStation firmware updates as well as improving game functionality. One of these updates related to how Sony arbitrarily changed the "handshake test". Cronus figured out what they did and thusly fixed their box when people where having disconnect issues. This all leads to my theory. I think it's possible that FANATEC and however they and Sony are dealing with the "handshake" is either broken, glitched or something. Maybe their are a batch of faulty security chips in these bases? Sony, supplied them to FANATEC, so maybe a bad batch? The disconnect issue that people are reporting is different from disconnect issues I've encountered with my DD PRO. When that thing disconnected, you had to REBOOT the base and or the PlayStation as well. From what, I've read, the disconnect issues here, the base momentarily disconnects, then comes back.

Anyway, it's just a theory. I'm just glad mine doesn't have that issue. I just wish someone at FANATEC would answer my coil whine ticket. LOL

Yeah I'm very curious about what the new one will feel like if the RMA goes through. It's not really "grainy" or "rough", but it's not completely smooth either. I can feel a slight ripple pattern I guess, but it's not too bad. It wouldn't be a deal breaker for me if that was the only issue, neither would the slight coil whine. The freezing and disconnects are the real issue. I thought with the crazy new hardware it would be almost perfectly smooth when I bought it though. But maybe mine feels the same as a perfect one, hard to say.

I want them to RMA my wheel too not just the base because it feels like it's got loose screws in it that I can't get to like I can on the DD Pro. Feels like the shell of the wheel rim itself needs the screws tightened but they're under pleather. They actually contacted me about it, probably since I was reporting things to them on the forum and made a video, etc.. so I didn't have to deal with creating a ticket, but I may still have to, not sure. I think they want to check out my base to see what's up with it for research. Who knows how long it'll take. I just hope they send me another one and I can return this one in the box and not return this first, wait weeks, and be without it in the meantime. I do have the DD Pro 8nm as a backup DD wheel though so I'll live. LOL

Interesting theory about the handshake, I wouldn't be surprised if it's something like that, or something like that is a contributing factor. I know HDMI has all kinds of handshake issues. It sounds like basically DRM for peripherals. Maybe it helps deture cheaters though, who knows.

 

[FMW]

I've seen your posts on the FANATEC forums as well as others with the disconnect issues. It's just so odd that it's affecting some folks and not others. If I was a betting man, I'd say my "handshake" theory has a high probability of being part of the issue. I posted my set up on the Fanatec Forum in the hopes that it helps out Maurice and Marcel, since I don't have an issue using their newest firmware. Never had disconnect issues using the firmware in 455 either. In my set up, I have the base connected directly to the back PS5 USB port using the supplied USB cable with no USB hub or extension. My PS5 is never set to sleep mode. I always shut down my PS5 and disconnect the rig from the PS5 when I'm done playing any racing game. When I power it on, I first connect the USB cable to the back USB port on the PS5, plug in the power cord, then power on the PS5. I don't turn on the base until I get into the USER log in screen. Once, that screen loads, I power on the DD+ base. From there I use the wheel to log in, then maneuver to whatever racing game I want to play. Maybe that's the secret sauce to having no disconnects? Probably not, but I really think there's an issue with the periodic hand shake.

 

[BWX]

I don't disconnect the USB cable every time but that's the only difference to what I've been doing. And while running that Brands Hatch TT this morning, I got another freeze, where steering and all inputs are frozen for a 2 or 3 seconds. Then the wheel pops back to life. There's no rhyme or reason to it. With all 457 driver firmwares I was getting these freezes too. With 455 and all other combos I tried, I got lots of disconnects. Who knows. Maybe there really is some kind of hardware fault going on.

 

[Jules_r]

Yeah my extreme is definitely smoother than my Pro 8nm, just hard to tell if it's as smooth as it's supposed to be because nothing to compare it against.

Same with me - so far I don't think I have any coil whine, and I don't have a clue how smooth it should be. If I'm on the track and I stop the car, and then turn the wheel I do have a slight grainy feeling. It's kind of hard to know if it's okay or not.

I have got an RMA for my wheel as OLED not working and it's getting worse all the time. I'm not sure if I should send just the wheel in, or everything... but then if my grainy base isn't right then I should get that fixed at the same time.

I'll ask the question to Fanatec and see what they say.

 

[FMW]

From what I'm seeing and reading from various forum posts and videos, it appears just about everyone seems to notice that slight "grainy" feel. I'm willing to bet that's the slight "torque ripple" inherit with these higher torque bases. I recall the YouTuber Random Call Sign mentioning it in one of his latest videos.

He mentions it being normal and it doesn't affect driving. I would agree. It doesn't affect being able to lap consistently etc.
Anyway, until I can try another DD+ first hand, I'm still meh about the grainy feel at the moment. It could be normal and it's quite possible that it varies depending on how your base is mounted, firmware, etc. 🤷‍♂️

 

[BWX]

From what I'm seeing and reading from various forum posts and videos, it appears just about everyone seems to notice that slight "grainy" feel. I'm willing to bet that's the slight "torque ripple" inherit with these higher torque bases. I recall the YouTuber Random Call Sign mentioning it in one of his latest videos.

He mentions it being normal and it doesn't affect driving. I would agree. It doesn't affect being able to lap consistently etc.
Anyway, until I can try another DD+ first hand, I'm still meh about the grainy feel at the moment. It could be normal and it's quite possible that it varies depending on how your base is mounted, firmware, etc. 🤷‍♂️

Yeah it's slight, and not a big deal. Not like what I hear about podium DD wheelbases from years ago. I've experimented and you can make it worse or better with settings on the wheel like damper and friction, etc.. When wheel is powered off mine very smooth to turn.

 

[FMW]

Yeah it's slight, and not a big deal. Not like what I hear about podium DD wheelbases from years ago. I've experimented and you can make it worse or better with settings on the wheel like damper and friction, etc.. When wheel is powered off mine very smooth to turn.

Same here. I keep forgetting that certain wheel menu settings can make the graininess more or less pronounced. I need to play around with NFR and DAMPER a bit more. I totally forgot that the Podium DD's had a much more pronounced grain and torque ripple effect.

 

[FMW]

Interesting thing happened this weekend. It being a holiday race weekend, Monaco GP, Indy 500, etc. I played all my favorite titles. (F123, ACC, and GT7) Not sure if this is the disconnect issue people are having, but I had two peculiar instances where I lost steering in two separate games, ACC and then GT7. In ACC I approached a hard right hand turn when the steering went numb. Meaning no FFB and no steering to the right. I still had control over brake and throttle though. On ACC, I merely slammed the brakes so as not to crash, came to a complete stop, then steering and FFB came back. I didn't have to reboot the game or the base, i just went about my business playing. ACC didn't have an issue after that one instance. Later, I decided to give GT7 a spin at Spa. I merely, swapped games and went straight to playing. After 15 minutes of lapping Spa, the same thing happened. On a hard right hander, I lost FFB and steering, but I still had brakes and throttle. I did the same thing. I came to a stop on track and FFB and steering came back. No problems for the rest of the afternoon. Just very strange. It happened both times within a 3 hour window of playing.

 

[BWX]

Interesting thing happened this weekend. It being a holiday race weekend, Monaco GP, Indy 500, etc. I played all my favorite titles. (F123, ACC, and GT7) Not sure if this is the disconnect issue people are having, but I had two peculiar instances where I lost steering in two separate games, ACC and then GT7. In ACC I approached a hard right hand turn when the steering went numb. Meaning no FFB and no steering to the right. I still had control over brake and throttle though. On ACC, I merely slammed the brakes so as not to crash, came to a complete stop, then steering and FFB came back. I didn't have to reboot the game or the base, i just went about my business playing. ACC didn't have an issue after that one instance. Later, I decided to give GT7 a spin at Spa. I merely, swapped games and went straight to playing. After 15 minutes of lapping Spa, the same thing happened. On a hard right hander, I lost FFB and steering, but I still had brakes and throttle. I did the same thing. I came to a stop on track and FFB and steering came back. No problems for the rest of the afternoon. Just very strange. It happened both times within a 3 hour window of playing.

For me the freezing issue is always the same, loose all control of everything and FFB stays at the force and direction it was going until a few seconds later, everything pops back to normal. Sometimes menus display is garbled or missing pixels. I've noticed I get freezing when my shifter is hooked up with or without using it, and have not been getting freezing when I unhook it. Just an old sequential shifter from old CSR wheel. Might be a coincidence, hard to say. Played for several hours in GT7 with no issues last few days so I dunno.

 

[hrtrob]

Mine is starting to have really bad disconnection issues. DD Extreme, no coil whine, currently at 455 for the bast and 456 for the WQR. On the PS5 “controller disconnected” pops up and if I press the PS button, sometimes it will connect then immediately disconnect. It used to only happen sometimes during pit stops or after a race, but now it happens even when driving. Doesn’t matter what wheel is attached, happens to the Extreme wheel, Podium hub, CS V2 hub, McLaren and V2.5. The usb cable is connected directly to the PS5. I’ve tried front usb, rear usb, even a second PS5, still getting the “controller disconnected”. Also tried the USB A to type C Cable that I use on my PC to connect my Quest 3, still have the same problem.

 

[BWX]

Mine is starting to have really bad disconnection issues. DD Extreme, no coil whine, currently at 455 for the bast and 456 for the WQR. On the PS5 “controller disconnected” pops up and if I press the PS button, sometimes it will connect then immediately disconnect. It used to only happen sometimes during pit stops or after a race, but now it happens even when driving. Doesn’t matter what wheel is attached, happens to the Extreme wheel, Podium hub, CS V2 hub, McLaren and V2.5. The usb cable is connected directly to the PS5. I’ve tried front usb, rear usb, even a second PS5, still getting the “controller disconnected”. Also tried the USB A to type C Cable that I use on my PC to connect my Quest 3, still have the same problem.

Below combo has been by far the most stable for me. Never had one disconnect (several disconnects with 455, and 456 was the worst). But very occasionally I'll get that "freeze bug" still, but it goes for long stretches of time and works fine. But lots of people don't get that freeze bug, especially after they RMA their base. I'm still waiting to hear back from Fanatec about my RMA status. On Friday it'll be two weeks since they first contacted me about the RMA so I imagine they'll contact me back somewhere around two weeks from then, hopefully soon. I think it takes the same amount of time, but they're the ones that initiated the RMA, I didn't go through the regular process.

Wheelbase FW 2.1.0.4 "CS_DD_v2.1.0.4_hotfix_disconnection_issue_test_release.eff" manually installed after installing all 457 drivers.

Wheel FW 1.0.7.0 (457)

Wireless QR FW 1.1.0.1 (457)

 

[hrtrob]

@BWX

What I’m experiencing right now is a different kind of disconnect. I’ve tried 457 and also the hotfix and got the momentary “freeze” issue with both. Rolled back to 455 and it was okay but then I started to get the “controller disconnected” problem. It’s literally a disconnect. This issue was also present while I was on 457