FFB 1.12 Update

  • Thread starter DRambo
  • 758 comments
  • 72,759 views
We all know G25 has a massive deadzone. I'm thinking that PD lowered the deadzone compensation (as evidenced by the oscillation when on straights) as part of bringing their Logitech support more towards their Thrustmaster capabilities.

I really hope someone with a Fanatec CSW or CSR-Elite provides test feedback soon, I'm interested to hear how it works for them (previously all Fanatec wheels suffered from the G25 deadzone compensation because they piggy-back on the Logitech drivers).
 
DFGT & LOVING new FFB split. The contact is much better translated through the wheel, and Camber settings make a big impact to "feel". Try messing with camber and see how it dramatically changes the feel.

I have mine set

8
10

It can be adjusted from driving options, no need to exit and go to options.
 
Not feeling amazing with Fanatec GT3RS, I saw that the update turned power steering on and hoped that was the case, but it was still far too light. It also feels like the front of the car is skipping all the time.
 
DRambo
I'm finding fft 5 and ffs 7 work well.
Click to expand...
dening80
Not feeling amazing with Fanatec GT3RS, I saw that the update turned power steering on and hoped that was the case, but it was still far too light. It also feels like the front of the car is skipping all the time.
Click to expand...

Its like that at first. Then you adjust the settings.
 
I'm on G27, and I used to have settings on Simulation, 10 FFB and no Power Steering. What am I supposed to do to make it feel the same? I was already at max settings because it felt the most real to me when driving racing cars... I might as well be turning my DS3, I'd get a better response.

Now my entire GT6 experience is ruined because PD decide to "fix" something that wasn't broken... :banghead:
 
ColouredBadger
I'm on G27, and I used to have settings on Simulation, 10 FFB and no Power Steering. What am I supposed to do to make it feel the same? I was already at max settings because it felt the most real to me when driving racing cars... I might as well be turning my DS3, I'd get a better response.

Now my entire GT6 experience is ruined because PD decide to "fix" something that wasn't broken... :banghead:
Click to expand...

You must ajust fft and ffs
 
Zlork
You must ajust fft and ffs
Click to expand...

It's all ready on max settings. I've tried different combinations and it's just dreadful... At least the new FFB system brings the simulation aspects in line with Mario Kart 👍

Edit

I'm being harsh. Yes the 'feel' is good now but it's just too weak and it's annoying not being able to make it stronger.
 
I feel ffb on 10 pre 1.12 had way to much dampening and centre spring, killing anything that may have resembled a real car.
 
ColouredBadger
I'm on G27, and I used to have settings on Simulation, 10 FFB and no Power Steering. What am I supposed to do to make it feel the same? I was already at max settings because it felt the most real to me when driving racing cars... I might as well be turning my DS3, I'd get a better response.

Now my entire GT6 experience is ruined because PD decide to "fix" something that wasn't broken... :banghead:
Click to expand...


I get confused by people saying this - 10 or x high setting felt realistic, because of the resistance. You guys with g27s that have been cranked up were missing out on quality DFB since 1.09/.10.

An electric motor is only capabable of so much, like a stereo speaker. Resistance ≠ real feeling. Anything over 5 or 6 on a g27 pre 1.12 was just overloading the motors. They were sending everything as one signal. Resistance and sensitivy to FFb should have been seperate from the beginning. The wheel motors need resistance all the time. Ffb is intermittent. Resistance takes precedent. Ffb is applied to that. The higher the number/old FFB slider setting from 1.11 and previous, the more FFB you were getting clipped out. Just like turning a speaker up past it's capabilities. It breaks up and you lose quality. They'll still be loud, but they'll sound horrendous. In this case, the resistance will still be there, like the sound level of the crackling speakers, but it is being pushed to it's ceiling. It is like splitting a stream of water. You can send it all down one path or another, try to distribute it correctly, etc.

I've had my G27 on setting 1, sometimes 2...probably since the spring or so. April or may I think - as soon as I heard about clipping and tested it. I wouldn't even know/don't remember the difference between 1 and 10 at this point. All I care is that it is stiff enough and I feel everything possible or damn near it.

I also run my wheel on 450 lock. So, it is essentially multiplying everything by two for me.

Anyone with a g25 or g27 should be on no more than 670* lock settings. You'll get just as much detail and far more resistance. It is noticeable, but not a massive difference on 670. But it is also much better and accurate at 670* lock. 450* lock is perfect. To me at least.
 
G25 user here.

In plain English : I have no Force feedback anymore.

why-meme.jpg
 
My G25 doesn't work as it should... It is not a feeling, the force feedback doesn't work after 50/70 wheel degrees. It's awful.
 
It seems that this will be a love or hate update. I'm using a G25 and I couldn't love the new FFB more. I've got sensitivity on 7 and both FFB options on 10 and while the wheel certainly feels much lighter, you don't need to fight against it to turn it anymore, leaving the time to concentrate on driving. I can actually feel the car now and react instantly and precisely, which wouldn't be possible with a heavy wheel. This lack of feedback made me consider leaving GT series recently, that is irrelevant in the meantime :) I was actually drifting an FT-1 VGT with hard racing tires on mount panorama with lots of countersteer :D and I can't say how much drifting sucked before the update, I could make only on a few of the seasonals, missed a lot of color rewards.

Edit: I didn't have the FFB on full before the update, by the way.
 
Last edited:
DRambo
I could never understand people running g25/27 on ffb10. You could hardly move the wheel. All the subtleness and feeling was removed. I used mine on ffb3 which seemed to give a good weight and feeling for almost all cars.
Click to expand...
Putting it on a 10 in GT6 was sooo bad for it lol. Glad I didn't do it for long.
 
332i
I get confused by people saying this - 10 or x high setting felt realistic, because of the resistance. You guys with g27s that have been cranked up were missing out on quality DFB since 1.09/.10.

An electric motor is only capabable of so much, like a stereo speaker. Resistance ≠ real feeling. Anything over 5 or 6 on a g27 pre 1.12 was just overloading the motors. They were sending everything as one signal. Resistance and sensitivy to FFb should have been seperate from the beginning. The wheel motors need resistance all the time. Ffb is intermittent. Resistance takes precedent. Ffb is applied to that. The higher the number/old FFB slider setting from 1.11 and previous, the more FFB you were getting clipped out. Just like turning a speaker up past it's capabilities. It breaks up and you lose quality. They'll still be loud, but they'll sound horrendous. In this case, the resistance will still be there, like the sound level of the crackling speakers, but it is being pushed to it's ceiling. It is like splitting a stream of water. You can send it all down one path or another, try to distribute it correctly, etc.
Click to expand...

This 👍

When I hear people saying 'I run my G2X with FF at 10 as it's more realistic' I wonder if they have ever driven a modern car before?

Anything above 5 and you start to lose the fine feedback and the ability to make fast and small correction inputs.

Don't confuse resistance to rotation with feedback.
 
Fender_st
G25 user here.

In plain English : I have no Force feedback anymore.

why-meme.jpg
Click to expand...
Stop using it like a boat or school bus wheel lol. I'm guessing you're using the stock lock setting? 900* is ridiculous. 900 is basically a full rotation and a half, just to get to lock. Just shy by 10*. It would be completely impossible for me to be within one to two seconds of myself @450 lock in a quick car, over 900 degrees. Corner entries are heaps better. Controling oversteer is far easier, too.
 
It does feel terrible. I think it's because "torque" is actually just damper or spring. Too much of that and it'll feel bad. I set torque to 1, and center sensitivity to 10 and it's better but not as good as it used to be.

PD needs to fix this as soon as possible.
 
FordMKIVJ5
Great explanation about FFB clipping by Niels Heusinkveld (from Heusinkveld Engineering and Reiza studios): http://www.racedepartment.com/threads/like-your-ffb-strong-think-again.30763/
Click to expand...
The problem is most people are trying to compensate for their wheels lack of strength and I don't blame them. When FFB is set low the wheel doesn't feel realistic at all. It's way to light to turn.

Maybe sims should start giving us seperate sliders for steering weight, and another for force feedback because when they only give us a couple options we need to make due with what we have.

And what we have in GT6 isn't good enough. They ruined what was some of the best FFB
 
I'm thinking PD needs to tell people how to set their wheels up, not change the FFB. That has been an issue for a while - people setting them incorrectly. You've had the update for a day. Test it at least a bit for a week or two before you guys go off. They made it more complicated to find FFB that suits you, rather than a generic 1-10 setting that required nothing other than selecting it, followed by you settling on a number that was good enough.
 

Latest Posts

Back