FITT Challenge STi Vs Evo Battle! Results; Congratulations to Praiano63, Otaliema & Brian Wolf

  • Thread starter Otaliema
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@Bowtie-muscle What car and class are you in?
Spec and Street, both STi's

@shaunm80 Wouldn't you feel better knowing you beat some one without them being handicapped or you having an advantage? I would. Besides, it is not like we have money on it and this is his first challenge. And by good tunes you mean like your Mini, that was a really good fun ride. I saved it too!:D
 
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@STALLIONO welcome to the challenge, per the stunning up rules, you have been randomly assigned a car in the class you requested in PM. Street racers.

you have been assigned the evo in the street racers division. Tune is due by June 4th midnight where you live

If anyone is curious I am just flipping a coin. Heads for evo in street tuner and pro spec, heads for STi in street racer.
 
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STREET TUNER SPEC EVOLUTION IV GSR ・ 1996
485pp 315ps 1150kg
LSD: 7/8 25/25 60/5 TQ. SPLIT 49:51
BALLAST: 35 kg @ +50 (53:47 wht. distb.)
WEIGHT REDUCTION: STAGE 3 / CARBON BONNET
POWER: Low-Rpm Turbo/ Intake Tuning/ Sports Exhaust/ Power Limiter 96.1% = 479 pp, 315 bhp, 46 kgfm, 3.65kg/bhp
TRANSMISSION: 6spd Close Ratio
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
DAMPER ~ DRY ーー TIRE SH
85 / 85
4.00 / 14.15
10 / 8
10 / 8
ARB 7 / 1
1.2 / 0.0 -----> BROKEN CAMBER IS A MYTH, PLEASE DO NOT "0" OUR CAMBER ^_^ ARIGATOU
-0.10 / 0.00
BRK 10 / 6 -----> (NON-RACE)
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
*SETTING CHANGE FOR WET*
REAR SPRING -----> 13.20 ーー TIRE CS
 
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14298603481_fa3c25eae1_z.jpg


Battle Royal - STi vs Evo - Spec Street Tuner

Impreza Sedan WRX STi Version V '98
315hp, 1150kg, 480pp, 53:47 Weight Dist

Lightning Blue Metallic - Inch up 1 Enkei RP03 (Cyber Gray)

No oil change
Parts Installed:
Full Custom Suspension, LSD, Torque Centering Diff, Twin Plate Clutch
6 spd fixed transmission, Racing Brakes, Racing Exhaust, Sports Cat Conv
Stage 2 Weight reduction, Carbon Hood

Suspension:
Height - 115 / 115
Spring Rate - 5.00 / 6.25
Compression - 5 / 4
Extension - 4 / 5
Roll Bars - 3 / 5
Camber - 0.0 / 0.0
Toe - -0.10 / -0.05
Brake Bias - 7 / 6

LSD:
Initial - 5 / 5
Accel - 20 / 20
Decel - 5 / 8

Center Diff - 50:50
spaceball.gif
spaceball.gif


Ballast - 51kg @ +20
Power Limiter - 97.3%

Sports Hard tires @ Grand Valley east
Comfort Soft tires @ Tsukuba
 
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please let me know if my setup is ok... sorry
As the tune is posted it will be assumed stock power parts abs power limiter at 100%. If this is not correct post the adjustments the, tube it's self looks great, well defined for wet and try set up.

The street racer 515pp car can have SM tires and is required to have a tire change as well.

@DolHaus again thank you for all the help while I'm not ale to monitor the thread as much as I would like.
 
As the tune is posted it will be assumed stock power parts abs power limiter at 100%. If this is not correct post the adjustments the, tube it's self looks great, well defined for wet and try set up.

The street racer 515pp car can have SM tires and is required to have a tire change as well.

@DolHaus again thank you for all the help while I'm not ale to monitor the thread as much as I would like.
No worries :cheers:
 
Ok. So I was going to try to game the rules a bit in the Street Racers group. I thought that flat floors in the rain was going to be the ticket. Lower power needed in the rain, short track with no long straight. If any track would favor flat floors it would be this combination, correct? No. Flat floors are utterly useless. A full second slower. What a pointless addition to GT6. :banghead:
 
Flat floor still has important use :) I used them on replicas and a racing series in GTP that I work with also uses cars with flat floor to help with performance / lap time. It's bad when PP is involved, but when PP is not an important, flat floor is very useful, it made road cars perform like race cars given enough power ( above 500HP )

Expected something closer to real life setup from our Japanese friend based on what I heard and read, looks like I am wrong :) and broken camber is not a myth @suspension, reduce the front camber to zero and you'll have more grip possible / less understeer - opposite of real life.
 
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Sorry if I sound harsh :P I do use camber, but not for getting best possible lap time or grip :D I used it mainly for fine tuning grip level to replicate tire grip level ( when I need a tire in between SH and CS or CS and CM etc ) and get close to target lap time when building replicas. Sometime I also made replica with real world alignment, loss of grip is a cost I'm willing to pay :lol:, but usually fine tuning springs, damper, ARB and LSD can make it work and drive great :)
 
On a different subject, does anyone else with a force feedback wheel know better settings for the dirt. With the G27 it vibrates so much on dirt that I unplugged the FFB power. Is that my only hope for something useful?

Don't think there's much you can do. I have an old DF Pro that I sometimes get to use, I usually turn FFB down to 2 or 3 for rallying. Softening the suspension makes the experience less jarring, but perhaps not the best plan if you trying to create the perfect tune :dopey:.
 
Don't think there's much you can do. I have an old DF Pro that I sometimes get to use, I usually turn FFB down to 2 or 3 for rallying. Softening the suspension makes the experience less jarring, but perhaps not the best plan if you trying to create the perfect tune :dopey:.

Even set to one it was completely annoying. Now I grew up in the back woods so I have driven fast on my share of dirt roads and trails. I don't remember a constant shake in the wheel when driving in a straight line on a fairly smooth looking surface at every speed.
 
Even set to one it was completely annoying. Now I grew up in the back woods so I have driven fast on my share of dirt roads and trails. I don't remember a constant shake in the wheel when driving in a straight line on a fairly smooth looking surface at every speed.
It could be the car. Have you tried another car or truck on the dirt see if still happens?
 
Reminds me of the shake in the wheel driving down the Mulsanne at LeMans in GT3 in the Nissan R92CP. No matter how hard I tried to stop it, it was going nuts!
 
ZERO SPORTS Impreza WRX STI Type RA BTZ003 N1 315HP FITT version
Tuned for FITT STi vs Evo Battle Royal
Comfort Soft to Sports Hard






CAR : Subaru Impreza Sedan WRX STI Version V '98
Tire : Comfort Soft to Sports Hard


Specs
Horsepower: 315 HP at 6400 RPM
Torque: 311.6 ft-lb at 4000 RPM
Power Limiter at : 98.5%
Weight: 1150 kg
Ballast : 0 kg
Ballast Position : 0
Weight Distribution : 54 / 46 as stock
Performance Points: 483


GT AUTO
NO Oil change
Improve Body Rigidity ( NOT INSTALLED in this build ) to comply with the rules.
Wheels : Standard Size or + 1 Inch Up - BOYD CODDINGTON Wheels Legacy F-09 painted in white or ADVAN RGII in Gold - +1 inch up ADVAN RGII in gold is used
Rear Wing - No Wing
Car Paint : Pure White



Tuning Parts Installed :
Intake Tuning
Low RPM Range Turbo Kit
Suspension Fully Customizable Kit
Adjustable LSD
Twin Plate Clutch Kit
Weight Reduction Stage 1
Carbon Hood ( Body Color )
Driver Controlled Center Differential ( DCCD ) - stock part.
Five Speed Transmission



LSD ( ZERO SPORTS GT 1.5 way rear and front - low optimal preload )
FRONT - GT ZLF 101
Initial Torque : 24
Acceleration Sensitivity: 30
Braking Sensitivity: 15

REAR - GT ZLR302 (R180)
Initial Torque : 13
Acceleration Sensitivity: 30
Braking Sensitivity: 15


Driver Controlled Center Differential
FRONT/REAR = 35/65 ( STOCK )


Suspension - ZERO SPORTS WINNING R N1 spec Coil Over Kit
Front, Rear

Ride Height: 105 105
Spring Rate: 11.00 7.00
Dampers (Compression): 5 4
Dampers (Extension): 6 5
Anti-Roll Bars: 2 3
Camber Angle: 0.2 0.3
Toe Angle: -0.08 0.08





Brake Balance:
7/9 ( personal BB) or for ABS 0 wheel : 7/9, for ABS 1 7/9 or feel free to use your preferred brake balance.


Recommended setting for DS3 user :

Steering sensitivity at +1 or +2, all aids off, except ABS 1 ( if not comfortable with ABS 0 ) with 7/9 brake balance as starting point.



Notes :
Based on the Zero Sports BTZ003 N1 replica that I built a few months ago, this is the entry car for Spec Street FITT STi vs Evo Battle Royal event.

There are several changes needed to comply with the rules, the car has no body rigidity and no oil change. Power and weight also has been altered to fit within the rules. Weight distribution has been left stock to avoid using any ballast, the original replica has 57/43.

Gearing has been changed to 5 speed preset as per rule, the replica has corrected stock 5 speed ratio.
For LSD, the setup has been retained from the replica, while the suspension, damper has been tweaked for the wet Tsukuba, ARB and toe also has been tweaked for wet surface. Camber set at low value, I just like the way it drives with a bit lower grip limit.

When tested at Tsukuba Wet 40% water on CS, it's capable of low 1:04s easily, my best was high 1:03s, a mid 1:03s is possible. My best 1st sector is 14.9s, the high 1:03s lap has 15.2s 1st sector and last sector is slower by a few tenths as well as a bit slow last corner. Some handbrake / E brake use is highly recommended in the wet Tsukuba, particularly 1st corner, and last 2nd hairpin before the main straight - apply only a split second to help the rear rotate when necessary Tsuchiya style :D

The WRX is a bit hard to drive in the wet, just like in real life, some understeer might creep in when not careful while braking and exit oversteer when getting too excited with the go pedal - had my share sideways with a Rex in the rain IRL.

At Grand Valley East, still on CS tire, it managed 1:12s with ease. With SH, it should be below 1:10s.

For Tsukuba : CS tire, and for GVE : SH tire. No tune changes.

I have provided below both best lap replays for the Tsukuba and GVE, both are on CS tire, Tsukuba 1:03s and GVE 1:12s, might be useful for reference or just for your enjoyment. It might be interesting to load them on data logger to compare with your best lap :D
 

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  • TsukubaWet1m3s.zip
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  • GrandValleyEast1m12s.zip
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Even set to one it was completely annoying. Now I grew up in the back woods so I have driven fast on my share of dirt roads and trails. I don't remember a constant shake in the wheel when driving in a straight line on a fairly smooth looking surface at every speed.

if you were driving any vehicle like I was (70's ford pick up) on the back roads, there was no feed back. you could turn in the dirt and the rest of the truck would catch up when it felt like it lol :) I think they purposely had enough play on center that you could fall asleep and keep going straight.

Tune post updated with all currently posted tunes
@suspension, @DolHaus, @Slender_Man, @shaunm80, @Bowtie-muscle, @praiano63, @oppositelock, @ImToLegitToQuit, @787bcgr please confirm I have them linked correclty. they are sorted by Rim size not submission or tuner order.

both links confirmed, thanks for all the behind the scenes action man.
 
if you were driving any vehicle like I was (70's ford pick up) on the back roads, there was no feed back. you could turn in the dirt and the rest of the truck would catch up when it felt like it lol :) I think they purposely had enough play on center that you could fall asleep and keep going straight.



both links confirmed, thanks for all the behind the scenes action man.
Sounds like an Australian XK Falcon with 5 and half turns lock to lock! Hardly sporting :crazy:
 
Even set to one it was completely annoying. Now I grew up in the back woods so I have driven fast on my share of dirt roads and trails. I don't remember a constant shake in the wheel when driving in a straight line on a fairly smooth looking surface at every speed.

Could it be PD-programmed steering instability ?... like too much front toe-out ?
 
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