Gran Turismo 7 Custom Race thread

[suomi1]

So here's my fundamental problem. I can leave T7 as shown below in the 963 Hypercar with a 1.5 second lead over 2nd who's in the BMW Hypercar and by the time we get to the braking zone at T10A they've closed the gap to within .300 seconds. That means they're gaining 1.2 seconds on me in 8/10ths of a mile or just about 4500 feet.

I'm not smart enough to do the math on what the closing speed has to be to close down a 1.2 second gap over the space of 4500 feet but I imagine it has to be rather large. By the time we get back to the line the gap is about half a second. Closes to .350 or so by T1 then I stretch the gap all the way back up to 1.5 by T7 again because the AI is very slow through T3 and The Esses.

I don't think there's a solution other than PD codes Sophy better. 1.0 was a legitimate Alien. 2.0 cheats to keep up with you. Turning Boost off means at least they can't cheat to catch back up. It also means if you make a mistake or get off sequence with pits you need to be an Alien yourself OR you need to have gotten off sequence to where you're ahead when the race ends.

BOP on or off doesn't seem to make a difference. Probably b/c I am doing multi-class. If it were single it probably works. Boost off makes the racing the fairest but because there's no FCY/Safety Car in game if you make mistakes you're just done.

Boost weak makes the racing closer but also means that when I'm leading the AI is lapping between 4-5 seconds faster than the Real Life 2026 Pole Time and 4 seconds faster than the All Time Pole Record.

I know it can't be perfect I just want better

You have no other solution but to use a rabbit here. This might require reducing your car's performance if the opposing cars turn out to be too slow.

Though, I didn't tried to race at Road Atlanta with Sophy since the update to see if it was totally bugged as it is at Le Mans now.

 

[Passinho]

Unfortunately we have to overlook quite a bit for the love of the game, cars and driving experience.

I hate the fact that if you’re in 1st and 2nd pits before you, 3rd, if far away, will travel at light speed to make sure the race is ‘exciting’.

I don’t mind this for beginners, youngsters, etc, but the fact you can’t turn it off annoys endlessly.

Overlook the worse parts and hope for better in future…it’s all we got bud.👍🏻🏎️

 

[CodeRedR51]

So here's my fundamental problem. I can leave T7 as shown below in the 963 Hypercar with a 1.5 second lead over 2nd who's in the BMW Hypercar and by the time we get to the braking zone at T10A they've closed the gap to within .300 seconds. That means they're gaining 1.2 seconds on me in 8/10ths of a mile or just about 4500 feet.

I'm not smart enough to do the math on what the closing speed has to be to close down a 1.2 second gap over the space of 4500 feet but I imagine it has to be rather large. By the time we get back to the line the gap is about half a second. Closes to .350 or so by T1 then I stretch the gap all the way back up to 1.5 by T7 again because the AI is very slow through T3 and The Esses.

I don't think there's a solution other than PD codes Sophy better. 1.0 was a legitimate Alien. 2.0 cheats to keep up with you. Turning Boost off means at least they can't cheat to catch back up. It also means if you make a mistake or get off sequence with pits you need to be an Alien yourself OR you need to have gotten off sequence to where you're ahead when the race ends.

BOP on or off doesn't seem to make a difference. Probably b/c I am doing multi-class. If it were single it probably works. Boost off makes the racing the fairest but because there's no FCY/Safety Car in game if you make mistakes you're just done.

Boost weak makes the racing closer but also means that when I'm leading the AI is lapping between 4-5 seconds faster than the Real Life 2026 Pole Time and 4 seconds faster than the All Time Pole Record.

I know it can't be perfect I just want better

What suomi1 said. You want a rabbit car and you want that car to be 2-3 seconds a lap faster than you and everyone else. Then when the race starts, pretend it's not even there. Leave boost on Weak. Without it, opponents will be slow.

 

[art3mis]

You have no other solution but to use a rabbit here. This might require reducing your car's performance if the opposing cars turn out to be too slow.

Though, I didn't tried to race at Road Atlanta with Sophy since the update to see if it was totally bugged as it is at Le Mans now.

What suomi1 said. You want a rabbit car and you want that car to be 2-3 seconds a lap faster than you and everyone else. Then when the race starts, pretend it's not even there. Leave boost on Weak. Without it, opponents will be slow.

I did find that if I just stayed in 2nd then 1st and I could gap 3rd by 3-7 seconds during a pit cycle so that was fun and interesting

 

[Voodoovaj]

This is why I am against excess balancing. Imbalance is the best balance. Gr3, for instance, has big PP gaps between the cars. Run them at 100%, choose one of the lesser cars, and good luck being so far ahead that you even notice the boost. It's also why I don't care about the engine swaps. If a GR3 engine ends up in a regular car, cool, it's will go longer on the stint and again, I won't see the boost happen.

Also, I am a firm believer in 1X fuel and tire wear. IRL, the stops are either necessary (endurance racing) or they are for show (F1). Put the damage on full, then you have a reason to stop. You also have to drive your way back to the front.

Length of race is also part of getting the right experience. Some cars aren't going to work as endurance racers, so don't use them in that context.

I'll give an example. I made a "1970s" LMGT with the Countach, Pantera, BMW 3.0, Porsche 930, and Ferrari 512. The BMW and Porsches have engine swaps. I can be faster in the 512, but I can't run as long. The BMW is fast and runs long, but not as fast as the Ferrari. The Porsche is slow, but they run the furthest on Fuel. At the end of an hour, I have no idea where I will be. if I manage to be around 1st at the end of the stops, I am passing the pits as someone is exiting. I TEND to not end up so far ahead that the boost kicks in.

I guess it's the Ricky Bobby method. If I am not fighting for first, I may as well be last. I don't see the allure of setting up a race where I am confident that I can win. I'd rather have it be a complete unknown.

 

[jesse100190]

for road car races on tracks that has possible rain i switch over to sport tires

 

[05XR8]

Regarding the AI car set up discussion. Depends… on a lot of factors. I can balance my ‘69-‘70 Trans-Am cars exactly and have good battles with passing. Same with my Group A.

However, I will agree, making my Group A grids with the real power and weight it’s even way harder for me to get up the front. That’s even factoring in the poor SOPHY performing bogey circuits.
My JTCC Reggie set ups are still pretty darned good. Really am surprised how well the cars go at CGV and Yas Marina.

Keep in mind, I’m only doing 2-5 lap races in early Gran Turismo style. Though I’d love to do 300km Grand Valley races if SOPHY can use the Toyota fraternal twins.

 

[RSF_5]

Today I've noticed that some cars that lost their Sophy compatibility with the last update are compatible again (Focus, GT86, BRZ ...). How's that possible without an update?

 

[Voodoovaj]

Regarding the AI car set up discussion. Depends… on a lot of factors. I can balance my ‘69-‘70 Trans-Am cars exactly and have good battles with passing. Same with my Group A.

However, I will agree, making my Group A grids with the real power and weight it’s even way harder for me to get up the front. That’s even factoring in the poor SOPHY performing bogey circuits.
My JTCC Reggie set ups are still pretty darned good. Really am surprised how well the cars go at CGV and Yas Marina.

Keep in mind, I’m only doing 2-5 lap races in early Gran Turismo style. Though I’d love to do 300km Grand Valley races if SOPHY can use the Toyota fraternal twins.

Great point, I think getting close the real set up is a great place to start and post-race race testing can be important.

I just did an overhaul of my DTM where the Evo 190 at 100% became the base setting. I adjusted everything else (BMW, Alfa, and Sierra) to the same weight and downforce. Then, broadly the same power and performance points.

At Redbull Ring, with the default settings on the Merc (with all the upgrades). I was pushing REALLY hard to get into the high 1:38s. All the Evos finished last. I finished 12th. The leaders were lapping in the low 1:37s. I know that I can be about 1 second faster than Sophy, in the same car, when it's leading the race. So, the Alfa should be able to hit the low 1:36 race.

I tested, and sure enough, I got a 1:36.3 in the Alfa. I tested the Merc without traffic and I got to the low 1:38s.

I went to work and adjusted the diff (15/15/50) and the suspension. I got the stability I needed and tried again. I also adjusted the transmission from its long default gearing to shorter, more aggressive gear (using the automatic adjustment). I added no power.

1:36.1

Today I've noticed that some cars that lost their Sophy compatibility with the last update are compatible again (Focus, GT86, BRZ ...). How's that possible without an update?

There was a Sophy update in 1.71 (though not called out). I think it's a precursor to the upcoming Spec IV update. Some cars were added to Sophy, some gained compatibility on tracks where it was unavailable, and some lost tracks.

Fingers crossed the the custom races get Sophy 3.0(or better). That would bring us more tracks, standing starts, and rain.

Come to think of it, does the post pit stop super boost happen with Sophy 3.0? I don't recall ever seeing it in the Power Pack.

 

[jesse100190]

did a gr.2 race at suzuka last night with tire and fuel rate did my only pit stop at the half way point while the leaders did theirs with 2 laps to go. the fastest lap belonged to the ai who finished 5th.

 

[Sinyster]

So, pardon me if this isn't exactly the right thread to be asking, but I'm aiming to do some more classic race events, primarily with cars ranging from the 50s to early 70s, just to satisfy the itch. Been watching a lot of Goodwood events where cars like Mustangs and Mini Coopers and so on are competing head to head rather evenly throughout a lap, and I'm just curious if anyone here has done the process of building/BoPing any such events that I could essentially borrow their homework from. Many thanks to any help or directions to any past threads I likely missed!

 

[jesse100190]

the Camaro race mod was on my tail all race long tonight was able to get some breathing room mid race was .030 of a second off its fastest lap at Tokyo south Counter clockwise

 

[05XR8]

So, pardon me if this isn't exactly the right thread to be asking, but I'm aiming to do some more classic race events, primarily with cars ranging from the 50s to early 70s, just to satisfy the itch. Been watching a lot of Goodwood events where cars like Mustangs and Mini Coopers and so on are competing head to head rather evenly throughout a lap, and I'm just curious if anyone here has done the process of building/BoPing any such events that I could essentially borrow their homework from. Many thanks to any help or directions to any past threads I likely missed!

I did one some time ago with the Shelby vs Mini. Trying to find it.

 

[Passinho]

So, pardon me if this isn't exactly the right thread to be asking, but I'm aiming to do some more classic race events, primarily with cars ranging from the 50s to early 70s, just to satisfy the itch. Been watching a lot of Goodwood events where cars like Mustangs and Mini Coopers and so on are competing head to head rather evenly throughout a lap, and I'm just curious if anyone here has done the process of building/BoPing any such events that I could essentially borrow their homework from. Many thanks to any help or directions to any past threads I likely missed!

I’m doing a set of excel championships at the moment, 1950-69, 70-79, 80-89 and 90-99.
I only race with Sophy.

I think 1950’s to 1990’s are the best cars in the game, fantastic for Sophy races, and Goodwood classics are a great inspiration, however, it can get very credit expensive! Haha

What do you need to know about the 50-69?
Which cars? Tuning? Race set up?

 

[Sinyster]

I’m doing a set of excel championships at the moment, 1950-69, 70-79, 80-89 and 90-99.
I only race with Sophy.

I think 1950’s to 1990’s are the best cars in the game, fantastic for Sophy races, and Goodwood classics are a great inspiration, however, it can get very credit expensive! Haha

What do you need to know about the 50-69?
Which cars? Tuning? Race set up?

Honestly it can be a whole wide range of cars. I know that makes it much more difficult to make BoP tables for and the such but thinking cars such as the Shelby Mustang, Mini Cooper, Alfa Giulia Sprint, WF '51 GT, Ferrari 250 GT, R8 Gordini, Jag E-Type, Porsche 550, Corvette C1, stuff like that. Obviously I know getting every car to be perfectly even is like, next to impossible with such a wide range but at least over a track like Goodwood or Brands Hatch, would be neat to see them battle it out. Hell, even the '50s race cars (DB3S, D-Type, Corvette StingRay) are all options.

And typically I do short sprints, such as 20-30 minute events, up to an occasional hour or so. And to keep things balanced, I try to keep things all on RH.

 

[Passinho]

Honestly it can be a whole wide range of cars. I know that makes it much more difficult to make BoP tables for and the such but thinking cars such as the Shelby Mustang, Mini Cooper, Alfa Giulia Sprint, WF '51 GT, Ferrari 250 GT, R8 Gordini, Jag E-Type, Porsche 550, Corvette C1, stuff like that. Obviously I know getting every car to be perfectly even is like, next to impossible with such a wide range but at least over a track like Goodwood or Brands Hatch, would be neat to see them battle it out. Hell, even the '50s race cars (DB3S, D-Type, Corvette StingRay) are all options.

And typically I do short sprints, such as 20-30 minute events, up to an occasional hour or so. And to keep things balanced, I try to keep things all on RH.

It’s almost exactly what I do, I do 40min races as standard league racing then on tracks like Spa, Circuit de la Sarthe I do 1-2hrs, night/day etc.

I’ve attached my cars I use and hopefully you can see the PP, HP, Weight….although I know it’s more complicated than that to balance all these cars!

 

[Passinho]

Honestly it can be a whole wide range of cars. I know that makes it much more difficult to make BoP tables for and the such but thinking cars such as the Shelby Mustang, Mini Cooper, Alfa Giulia Sprint, WF '51 GT, Ferrari 250 GT, R8 Gordini, Jag E-Type, Porsche 550, Corvette C1, stuff like that. Obviously I know getting every car to be perfectly even is like, next to impossible with such a wide range but at least over a track like Goodwood or Brands Hatch, would be neat to see them battle it out. Hell, even the '50s race cars (DB3S, D-Type, Corvette StingRay) are all options.

And typically I do short sprints, such as 20-30 minute events, up to an occasional hour or so. And to keep things balanced, I try to keep things all on RH.

I start all cars with the same…

Sports brakes
Weight reduction depends on car type
Power Restrictor
Ballast
Fully customisable LSD (optional)
Fully customisable manual GB (optional)
Body rigidity (optional)
Racing brake pads
Fully customisable suspension
Racing hard tires

Reduce the camber on all cars, fully customisable suspension always starts with 3.0 and 3.0 camber…..since the update Sophy cars don’t drive properly with 3.0 on both, it works better at 1.5 and 2.0.

Some cars are difficult, GT350 rubs front wheels so add 10 to front suspension

I don’t add front aero to any cars unless they absolutely need it.

Rear aero is on most, some cars are better with a spoiler (even though they don’t look great).
I have two E-Types with and without a spoiler, the both drive well but different.

Unfortunately Sophy can’t drive Goodwood but you can get a similar Goodwood experience with Brands Hatch, Spa, Suzuka, etc. if you do want to use Sophy.

I don’t know much about Regular AI cars so you have to ask others.

Do you want to see a few tuning sheets as examples?

 

[Sinyster]

I start all cars with the same…

Sports brakes
Weight reduction depends on car type
Power Restrictor
Ballast
Fully customisable LSD (optional)
Fully customisable manual GB (optional)
Body rigidity (optional)
Racing brake pads
Fully customisable suspension
Racing hard tires

Reduce the camber on all cars, fully customisable suspension always starts with 3.0 and 3.0 camber…..since the update Sophy cars don’t drive properly with 3.0 on both, it works better at 1.5 and 2.0.

Some cars are difficult, GT350 rubs front wheels so add 10 to front suspension

I don’t add front aero to any cars unless they absolutely need it.

Rear aero is on most, some cars are better with a spoiler (even though they don’t look great).
I have two E-Types with and without a spoiler, the both drive well but different.

Unfortunately Sophy can’t drive Goodwood but you can get a similar Goodwood experience with Brands Hatch, Spa, Suzuka, etc. if you do want to use Sophy.

I don’t know much about Regular AI cars so you have to ask others.

Do you want to see a few tuning sheets as examples?

Oh hey I appreciate all of this (from both posts!) though I think I'll probably stick to my own tuning with the suspension and such. Although I'll definitely take your suggestions into consideration after some testing to see if whatever I make works or doesn't. But I'm definitely going to browse your current car selection and specs to see the results!

 

[Jack_10_9_8_7]

So, pardon me if this isn't exactly the right thread to be asking, but I'm aiming to do some more classic race events, primarily with cars ranging from the 50s to early 70s, just to satisfy the itch. Been watching a lot of Goodwood events where cars like Mustangs and Mini Coopers and so on are competing head to head rather evenly throughout a lap, and I'm just curious if anyone here has done the process of building/BoPing any such events that I could essentially borrow their homework from. Many thanks to any help or directions to any past threads I likely missed!

Beware of the default tyre issue, most of these cars have CM/CS equipped so will use them in the custom races (low PP cars such as the Mini have CH).

I have 60s 470-500pp class with E-types, 250SWBs, GT350s, and DB5s, etc. on CM at around 300bhp, and lower powered cars such as Carrera 904s and TZ2s on CS.

The 50s cars are similar in that most have CM but the less powerful Maserati and Porsche 550 have CSs.

Of course you can put all cars on RH but that removes some of the fun challenge of driving these cars.

 

[Passinho]

Oh hey I appreciate all of this (from both posts!) though I think I'll probably stick to my own tuning with the suspension and such. Although I'll definitely take your suggestions into consideration after some testing to see if whatever I make works or doesn't. But I'm definitely going to browse your current car selection and specs to see the results!

No worries bud, it’s all just suggestions, we all play the game a bit different so whatever works for you, finding your own way is what makes the game interesting.

I will say though, the classics/historics make for some great racing!

👍🏻👍🏻

 

[jesse100190]

all my races are 26.2 miles at min with the Barcelona dirt taking the longest to complete

 

[Voodoovaj]

Of course you can put all cars on RH but that removes some of the fun challenge of driving these cars.

But, it makes the AI faster. You have to decide whether you want your car sliding around, or if you want something stable for the AI. The more grip it has, the more challenge you have.

Don't get me wrong, I dig the sliding, but it is a trade off.

 

[05XR8]

I think I left the Shelbys in n their stock tyres while having the Minis on RH.

 

[jesse100190]

won a challenging race at the ring gp with like the field higher hp then me rain put a wrench in mid race with a caution for multiple cars spinning out at the same corner went to inters for a few laps before going back to mediums to pass the leader at the final few turns with the help of the only car a lap down to win by 4.4 seconds.