Gran Turismo 7 Engine Swap Compatibility

  • Thread starter Thread starter Famine
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Still, despite my efforts to discourage it, we still catch out people who use GTPlanet as a resource without going to the trouble of letting anyone know that they do...

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This one certainly did its job.
I've been warned that Kudosprime was missing swap engine in last January, so i check my list against the one here and added missing cars, and now we not only have false info here, but also on Kudosprime.
I won’t argue with a creative strategy that involves poisoning the food you serve here, but let me know if you stop. I’ll add the link pointing to that page, somehow, once it can be trusted again.
 
I've been warned that Kudosprime was missing swap engine in last January, so i check my list against the one here and added missing cars
Which is pretty much what I said, yes. You used GTPlanet as a resource without going to the trouble of letting anyone know that you did.

Every other bit of protestation here and in the other thread is just a diversion from this.

The best time to concede that yes, you do indeed use GTPlanet as a data source for your own site without any attempt to cite us and to just do the nice, community-minded thing of a little note in your GT7 section to thank our members (for example @Korza, who saves me a few minutes most updates and I try to "Like" their posts to reflect this as a courtesy even if sometimes I forget) for their efforts in providing the data you use, was when I politely pointed it out to you.

The second-best time would be now, even after... all of whatever this is.

But like I said, GTPlanet's various list resources aren't protected or copyrighted and we can't stop people taking them for their own purposes (including commercial) without any citation whatsoever. It's just not very community-minded to do so.

I'd expect it from big, non-specialist outlets with writers too lazy to do their own work (like several sites who copied every error off the Master Car List back in February/March 2022; not all though, as some did cite GTP as their source) but I wouldn't expect it from someone within the community itself.

It remains, as I said in my previous message in the other thread, your call. I'd suggest you consider how it reflects on you rather than making another post about why we're to blame for it somehow.


For reference, it's the Volkswagen Vision GT engine, not the Suzuki one. Fun fact: I almost put the same wrong engine in the Scirocco R entirely by mistake this time round but spotted the Peugeot in the Suzuki engine list and remembered. Sometimes errors aren't trap streets, sometimes they are - which is yet another reason to cite your sources, to pass the blame for errors.


Edit: Let's make "I'd suggest you consider how it reflects on you rather than making another post about why we're to blame for it somehow." an actual instruction rather than a suggestion, because there is literally nothing more to be gained from you continuing to argue you weren't just caught red-handed, pants down and in the cookie jar, copying someone else's data without even basic checking of it and with no mention of your sources on your website, making your website look like unreliable (in this most-externally visited thread in the GT7 forum) because it gives the impression of just taking other people's data to present it without any actual fact-checking.

All this does is make people wonder where you're actually getting your data, if you're checking any of it, and how reliable it is. You can choose to pretend whatever you want (and the subsequent deleted post is insane), but that's all on you.


It remains the case that you can either actually tell people visiting your website that you're lifting other people's work and presenting it differently, or you can not bother doing that. I politely suggested the former, but you can just do you.
 
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The CIA used to do this with documents that had limited exposure, and each document had a little different wording and was serialized, and thus, if it got leaked out, they could tell who leaked out because who had the serialized document, it was called the canary trap
 
The nsx 92 is very good on fuel with the engine swap for the lemans 700pp race and other 700 pp races
I am one troglodyte that still uses controller with DPad and buttons as my input method, sometimes I indulge into searching for some engine swaps that could make cars 700pp class worthy. I saw the NSX '92 on sale, grabbed it (an extra copy, as I like to keep at least 1 car "undisturbed"), slapped the swap, and OMFG that engine is a efficiency wet dream come true. On full time fuel map 6 you'll only need to get to the pits for tire changes, and thats it, and thats with no extra engine modifications nor detunning.
On an additional note:
We all know that there are some atrocious swaps that can destroy cars, like my beloved flying brick, or ones that you'll feel like you are doing a PhD thesis with all the tinkering needed like the Renault R4, but some swaps are really good specially for farming credits in LeMans, like the Lancia Delta's. It grips beautifully, drives well and the tires are consumed at a nice pace for a 4WD. Another cars that comes to mind that behaves well ar the Mustang Mach1, the DeTomaso Panthera for MRs, or the Mitsubishi FTO
The sad part with small FF's, is some swaps are terribly overpowered, and we have no enough greaboxes nor aerodynamic options to improve them to make them compete against bigger cars.
 
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I am one troglodyte that still uses controller with DPad and buttons as my input method, sometimes I indulge into searching for some engine swaps that could make cars 700pp class worthy. I saw the NSX '92 on sale, grabbed it (an extra copy, as I like to keep at least 1 car "undisturbed"), slapped the swap, and OMFG that engine is a efficiency wet dream come true. On full time fuel map 6 you'll only need to get to the pits for tire changes, and thats it, and thats with no extra engine modifications nor detunning.
On an additional note:
We all know that there are some atrocious swaps that can destroy cars, like my beloved flying brick, or ones that you'll feel like you are doing a PhD thesis with all the tinkering needed like the Renault R4, but some swaps are really good specially for farming credits in LeMans, like the Lancia Delta's. It grips beautifully, drives well and the tires are consumed at a nice pace for a 4WD. Another cars that comes to mind that behaves well ar the Mustang Mach1, the DeTomaso Panthera for MRs, or the Mitsubishi FTO
The sad part with small FF's, is some swaps are they are terribly overpowered, and we have no enough greaboxes nor aerodynamic options to improve them to make them compete against bigger cars.
for the 600 pp class i use the lancer evo '96 with the engine swap, another one of my favorites for other 700 pp races is the ford cosworth it is a grip machine
 
Slightly off the topic of engine swaps, does anyone know a material reason why road cars are so goddamn awful at (Racing) tyre degradation and is there anything that can be done about it?
 
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Slightly off the topic of engine swaps, does anyone know a material reason why road cars are so goddamn awful at (Racing) tyre degradation and is there anything that can be done about it?
not an expert mod (n00b here) but basic ones are:
  • camber / toe angles (closer to zero -> less tire wear)
  • weight and weight distribution (lighter cars -> less tire wear)
  • downforce (less downforce -> less tire wear)
  • brake balance (Example: FF / 4WD cars chewing front tires? try offloading some of the braking to the rear)
Of course, every modification to those affects the car's behaviour, so finding the right balance in car maneuverability / tire wear is a labour of testing. Also, road cars' default suspensions and weight makes them less responsive.
Also: turn up in the sound settings the tire volume to get more clues on your tire usage. less screeching -> less tire wear. Modify your driving to minimize tire use and abuse
OH! If you are racing in the rain, once that the tarmac starts drying up, your intermediate / wet tires wear really fast. if you can manage, use the wet zones on the track to maximize their life until you get to the next pit stop
 
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not an expert mod (n00b here) but basic ones are:
  • camber / toe angles (closer to zero -> less tire wear)
  • downforce (less downforce -> less tire wear)
Both of those are anything but that straightforward.

Less camber only works up to a point, eventually it leads to less grip as the tyre "leans over" in hard cornering and less grip means more slippage which means more tyre wear. As a rule of thumb racing tyres can use more camber than comforts or sports as they produce more grip to load the suspension before the tyre gives in.

Exactly zero front toe, depending on the Ackermann geometry of the steering, can cause more rubbing as the inner tyre should make a smaller circle than the outer for both to follow a perfect line. The rubbing is minuscule, but it exists.

Less downforce loads the tyres less yes, but again it also leads to less grip which means more slippage, and slipping tyres wear more.
 
Both of those are anything but that straightforward.

Less camber only works up to a point, eventually it leads to less grip as the tyre "leans over" in hard cornering and less grip means more slippage which means more tyre wear. As a rule of thumb racing tyres can use more camber than comforts or sports as they produce more grip to load the suspension before the tyre gives in.

Exactly zero front toe, depending on the Ackermann geometry of the steering, can cause more rubbing as the inner tyre should make a smaller circle than the outer for both to follow a perfect line. The rubbing is minuscule, but it exists.

Less downforce loads the tyres less yes, but again it also leads to less grip which means more slippage, and slipping tyres wear more.
Thanks for the extended reply, I was vaguely aware that suspension tuning is largely responsible, but I can't get my head around loading up a racing car engine into a road car, along with racing tyres (the archetypal "race mod") and they simply HAVE to be Hards because I know they just won't last.

I'm really curious.
 
Thanks for the extended reply, I was vaguely aware that suspension tuning is largely responsible, but I can't get my head around loading up a racing car engine into a road car, along with racing tyres (the archetypal "race mod") and they simply HAVE to be Hards because I know they just won't last.
There's a huge amount of things at play when comparing a tuned road car to a purpose built race car. The latter has a much lower centre of gravity which gives less body roll and more balanced weight distribution during cornering which again leads to more evenly wearing tyres when the outer side isn't doing almost all the work, and often significantly higher downforce which gives the "on rails" feel and contributes a lot to the tyres not slipping which increases their life. Not to mention that the tyres are often wider which again lowers their loading and with the load distributed over a larger area they aren't working as hard.

Then when you take all of that and apply it to a road car that closely resembles a racing car, a good example being the Jaguar XJ220, you'll notice that the tyre wear isn't excessive anymore. The entire starting point is vastly different to trying to make a small hatchback fast vs. something that was designed from the ground up with the same principles as the actual racers.
 
Both of those are anything but that straightforward.
You are certainly right, modding is one of those game mechanics that are easy to get into, hard to master. By my guesstimates I have like 100-200 hours of modding just in GT7 (I got my PS5 /GT7 before '25 holidays) and I realize Im but a n00b. The more I mod, the more I get how much I ignore. Maybe I had to specify that my points are just the bare minimum. I didnt wanted to get into more detail as there are extensive modding guides on YouTube, the basics are explained on "Beyond the Apex" in game manual, and other resources. Obviously those are beyond the scipe of this thread.
Benjo:
Sometimes slapping the racing suspension and racing hards on a given car "just werks", but the defaults 25/45 spring rates, 4/4 bars, 3.0 camber angles, .20 or .30 rear tyres toe in gives you good results, but those are general setups, a suggestion of sorts, and those do not work in many cars. If you like to do just minimal mods, maybe you need to watch videos of modders, copy their setups, and find the modder that best adapt a car to your driving style
 
You are certainly right, modding is one of those game mechanics that are easy to get into, hard to master.
Well... yeah. Most people here nowadays weren't around back then so I may seem like someone just out of nowhere talking like I knew something about tuning but these things happened.

 
There's a huge amount of things at play when comparing a tuned road car to a purpose built race car. The latter has a much lower centre of gravity which gives less body roll and more balanced weight distribution during cornering which again leads to more evenly wearing tyres when the outer side isn't doing almost all the work, and often significantly higher downforce which gives the "on rails" feel and contributes a lot to the tyres not slipping which increases their life. Not to mention that the tyres are often wider which again lowers their loading and with the load distributed over a larger area they aren't working as hard.

Then when you take all of that and apply it to a road car that closely resembles a racing car, a good example being the Jaguar XJ220, you'll notice that the tyre wear isn't excessive anymore. The entire starting point is vastly different to trying to make a small hatchback fast vs. something that was designed from the ground up with the same principles as the actual racers.
Hence why the F40 works soo well when tuned.
 

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