GT Sport Bug Report Thread

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your rude attitude
And your response to that is to be just as rude back?
you seem to be gravely uninformed about cars
seem to come from a career in mario-kart
Enough.

ABS Default doesn't mean "whatever the car actually has"; it means the default strength setting for the game ABS. You can also set it to weak (again, for the game, not the car), or off - which would ordinarily be impossible in a car with ABS unless you yank the fuse out - even most cars with a customisable system (such as Race/Race+ modes on higher-end and sporting stuff) don't fully switch ABS off.

Polyphony Digital disabled shifters in competitive races a very long time ago because the clutch implementation is rubbish and players with H-pattern shifters could basically cheat (which is the definition of "pay to win" and not really the GT Sport ethos).

While I concur there could be more granularity in lobby settings, if you have friends in your private lobby who won't stick to the regulations you tell them, kick them and get new friends.

Not being able to see other people's lobbies might be a bug, but it is almost always a poorly optimised connection (or two... or more) that's responsible. GT Sport's lobby mode is peer-to-peer, and if one of your peers has a junk connection but thinks it's great because they get 250Mbps down (which is irrelevant) you will all face issues with it.

Considering there is no way to make an official support ticket, im appaled by the way you replied
Nobody here is anything to do with Polyphony Digital or Sony in any capacity.
 
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Thanks, valid points and good informative reply. I'll make sure to discuss these matters in their appropriate sections going forward.
I would suggest the following steps for optimising a connection:
1. Wired in... always wired in
2. Static IP for the console
2a. Static IP for everything else in the building too!
3. Console IP/MAC in router's DMZ
4. OpenDNS/Google DNS instead of default ISP DNS
5. Bandwidth isn't so important, but if other people in the building can be entertained in a manner other than Netflix/Amazon Prime/Disney+/any other online gaming at the time, that would be great.
6. If it still persists, your ISP may be throttling P2P connections; investigate further.


If you're not excessively technically minded, some of this might be gibberish or overwhelming. I do have a step-by-step guide floating around here which you can find if you need it

Edt: Hah, I posted it five pages back in this thread! :lol:
 
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6. If it still persists, your ISP may be throttling P2P connections; investigate further.

I've had connection issues twice since 2017. Both times "coincidentally" when my ISP created new upgraded plans for broadband.

When I call they claim they don't throttle and then suggest I upgrade although I'm on the top plan available for my area and the upgraded plan isn't an option. They don't care, it's basically a monopoly.
 
So since the update, when I do a time trial on any track, it resets the leaderboards. Every time.

Edit - also noticed my gallery scapes/replays are gone
 
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Since the latest update, braking feels different. The cars are not braking like they did. I now need full force on the brakepedal before it starts to brake!! And I’m not the only one. Our complete GT Online group experience this…
 
I have just completed the GT League Professional section Lamborghini Cup and won Gold in all races. yet there has been no prize money added from one race to the next or after I finished the last race.
My total prize money before the 1st race was £20 million and after the 9 winning races it is still the same.
I am logged on signed in . I did notice after each race it only showed mileage points and experience points.
I have just won another race on another level and no money rewarded.
So either a bug in the system or £20 million is the limit of total prize money ?
 
I have just completed the GT League Professional section Lamborghini Cup and won Gold in all races. yet there has been no prize money added from one race to the next or after I finished the last race.
My total prize money before the 1st race was £20 million and after the 9 winning races it is still the same.
I am logged on signed in . I did notice after each race it only showed mileage points and experience points.
I have just won another race on another level and no money rewarded.
So either a bug in the system or £20 million is the limit of total prize money ?
20 million Cr is the limit. You have to spend some to get more
Or you can get the LH dlc, if you gold all of those you will get 100 million Cr roof
 
The "Subaru Viziv GT VGT" consumes fuel even when doing a campaign race that has fuel consumption off. I am playing on the original PS4 model with the full game.
 
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The yellow penalty markers used in Sport races are in career mode on Catalunya. So far I have not seen them on any other circuit.
 
VBR
Please report all bugs & issues you find in the Demo & the full game here. Also, try to be as thorough as possible when reporting, & include as much information as you can. If we collate everything into one thread, then we can make PD's job easier to identify & fix any issues that have slipped through the net


Hi everyone,

I am facing a problem to playing online, since the last update every time I try to play online I appear alone, all the others are frozen in the starting line, I already tried reinstalling the game, changing the internet settings, reconstructing the database of the PS4, factory reset, and the problem continues, any suggestions? thanks in advance for the help with this!
 
Having the worst time staying connected today in sport mode. Ughh..
Hi everyone,

I am facing a problem to playing online, since the last update every time I try to play online I appear alone, all the others are frozen in the starting line, I already tried reinstalling the game, changing the internet settings, reconstructing the database of the PS4, factory reset, and the problem continues, any suggestions? thanks in advance for the help with this!
Both classic signs of network issues:
So GT Sport - like GT6 and GT5, and GT5P - is a bit sensitive to network environments, and a connection that's fine one day (or hour) might be ropey the next. There's an "easy" way to optimise your own network environment and make it as stable and friendly as possible.

Step 1 - Wire it in

A wired connection is innately more stable (and marginally broader and more responsive) than a wireless one.

Step 2 - Static IP address
This is a little more complicated and requires knowing a very small amount about your home network.
In essence, your router (the thing that plugs into the outside world) has a small amount of addresses (called IP addresses) that it assigns to the devices connecting to it. It receives information from the outside world, works out which device it has to go to and sends it there. Your device also sends information to it, which the router translates to show which device it has come from, and sends it out. This is a function known as "Network Address Translation" (NAT). Now you know what "NAT Type" means - the type of NAT currently used. NAT Type 2 is best and NAT Type 3 is the worst, for really boring reasons. If you have NAT Type 3 you will absolutely need to do the rest of this list.
If left to its own devices (it probably would), the router will assign IP addresses automatically. This means that every time a device is turned on, the router gives it a number. This is usually sequential, but not always, and known as DHCP (Dynamic Host Configuration Protocol). If you have lots of devices connected at once, this can sometimes cause issues as a device "wants" the IP address another one is using. It's usually only a hiccup, but it can be bad if you're doing 140mph when it hiccups because your kid is checking their phone...
For stability purposes it's better to assign each and every device in your house its own, permanent IP address. First you'll need to find out what IP addresses your router uses. Usually, this will be 192.168.0.[any number from 2-255], with the router itself as 192.168.0.1, but not always*. Best way to check is to look at the router's own IP address, printed on the back of it. That's the address you'd type into your browser to log into your router's control panel. Once you've found out, pick a number from 2-255...
Then, on the PS4 go to:
Settings (second button from the right hand side)
-> Network
-> Set Up Internet Connection
If you've wired it in as above, pick "use a LAN cable". If not, bad you, pick WiFi.
On the next screen pick "Custom", and then "Manual". Now you need to enter the IP address you've chosen, along with some other... kookier information.
For your IP address enter the number you picked. "Subnet Mask" is even more almost always going to be 255.255.255.0. "Default Gateway" is your router's address. The DNS (Domain Name Server; the servers that change the IP addresses of locations into names, like gtplanet.net) settings are up to you; your ISP has its DNS and these will likely be in the router's control panel under DNS. It's easier to use the free DNS at OpenDNS. These are "208.67.220.220" and "208.67.222.222".

As a random example, the screen should now look something like this:
IP Address - 192.168.0.4
Subnet Mask - 255.255.255.0
Default Gateway - 192.168.0.1
Primary DNS - 208.67.220.220
Secondary DNS - 208.67.222.222


On the next screens hit Automatic, Do Not Use and Test. It'll now do a network test. If you have set ANYTHING wrong, it will fail at the "Obtain IP address" or "Internet Connection" stage. Double check your numbers...

Lastly, it's best to do exactly the same thing in your router, and it's required for the next step. Routers vary wildly in where to find this function, but you should have your own instruction manual for it... It's likely to be under an advanced settings menu, labelled as IP addresses or network configuration or something similar. All you need to do is find your console (this can be tricky, as it may be listed by its MAC address; you can find your console's MAC address in its Settings menu somewhere. I forget where. It's a set of six pairs of hexadecimal numbers, from 00-FF, separated by colons), click on that and enter the IP address you picked for it.

If you think this is geeky, I've done it for every device in my house, numbering 25 or so now. And the consoles, laptops, mobiles and computers are separated into dedicated IP blocs, so when we get a new one it's easy to remember what the next number should be. NEEEEEEEEEEEEEERD!

Step 3 - DMZ
So, basically, devices need to send information out through "ports". This is stupendously difficult to explain - you and I might think that a "port" is what you plug a cable into, but it's not. Well, not in this sense - it's a networking thing. Routers have built-in protective "firewalls" that block certain ports under certain conditions. This is great - it helps prevent your computer from being compromised, or sending out information when it has been - but when a console has its ports blocked, you can't game.

Routers also have a place outside of their normal firewall called the DMZ - which, yes, is the Demilitarised Zone. This is a connection where the firewall doesn't exist, so there's no defences. As there's no defences, there's no ports blocked. This is great news for gaming.

Once you've assigned the static IP address to the PS4 both in the console and in the router, you'll want to find your router's DMZ function. Again, this varies wildly, but is often just labelled as "DMZ". It may be under a Firewall menu or similar. Again, consult your manual. You'll need to then assign the console's IP address (or some routers allow you to assign the device, if you can remember its MAC Address, or you gave it a name) to the DMZ.

You can only assign a single device or IP to a DMZ, and your console is the safest thing to put there.

Once you've done all this, the chances are that you won't see any immediate differences in the network test. You might have a slightly lower ping, or a slightly higher bandwidth, but probably won't. But what you will have is the absolute ideal conditions for your console for online gaming, and the only disconnects that will affect you should be when everyone gets booted from a lobby. Or if your internet connection itself falls over, or there's a power cut.

It won't cure low bandwidth, high ping connections, but it will make it more stable and it's everything you can do to make it work. Unless your ISP throttles gaming traffic, which some do, the bastards...


*Mine is NOT the same as this. If yours isn't as well, and you don't know what you're doing, shout at me in PMs and I'll help
 
Drafting does not seem to be working correctly. Out on special stage route x with a Renault R.S.01 & drafting a Ford GT LM Spec II. Cannot "slingshot" around the Ford. As soon as I pull out of the slipstream, my speed drops from 203 to 198 IMMEDIATELY. I get back into the slipstream & I catch up with the Ford again, but cannot pass. After 6 tries of losing the race by an average of 0.054 seconds, on the 7th try, I finally managed to spin the Ford out on the 2nd corner. Seemed to only way to win because the game will not let you slingshot.
 
Drafting does not seem to be working correctly. As soon as I pull out of the slipstream, my speed drops from 203 to 198 IMMEDIATELY. I get back into the slipstream & I catch up with the Ford again, but cannot pass.
I noticed that too. I have to make adjustments, like minimizing aero and pumping up the horsepower. Even so, you don't really slingshot past, its more like a slow-motion pass. I was away from GT Sport for 18 months, so I'm not positive, but I don't recall it always being like this.
 
I noticed that too. I have to make adjustments, like minimizing aero and pumping up the horsepower. Even so, you don't really slingshot past, its more like a slow-motion pass. I was away from GT Sport for 18 months, so I'm not positive, but I don't recall it always being like this.
True. You remember right. Slingshotting used to work...
 
There's this bug where every time I play, there are some ****ing ******ckers that just dive bomb or run you off the road, dropping you from say p2 to p13, and they don't even take a penalty, ruining your race.
Which isn't a bug. We have a very well populated thread for complaints about the penalty system and there's little need to just dive bomb it into other threads, regardless of how frustrated it makes you.
 
Which isn't a bug. We have a very well populated thread for complaints about the penalty system and there's little need to just dive bomb it into other threads, regardless of how frustrated it makes you.
I could have sworn GTS had some sort of penalty system for ramming and causing incidents. I just started playing again, thought maybe the penalty system was even more broken than I remember.
 
Hi, i recently bought the Fanatec Podium Racing F1 wheelbase and i have a force feedback issue only with Gran Turismo Sport.
The problem is: When you pause the game and continue the wheel becomes very heavy and loses most of its ffb, if you pause and resume again everything comes back to normal. This only happens on GT Sport all other games are ok.
I spoke with fanatec and they told me if this only happens on one game only it most probably a game issue.
 
I spoke with fanatec and they told me if this only happens on one game only it most probably a game issue.
I don't have a wheel so I cannot exactly address your issue. However I would agree that it could be a "game issue". I've had many Gran Turismo problems that don't happen with other games. My son is a avid gamer (more like addict) and has hundreds of games. I've asked him about some of the weird things that happen with GT Sport as well as GT6. He's never experienced these kinds of things, and at times, looks at me like there's something wrong with me.

The most recent was trying to get a DS4 controller to work on a PS3. It caused my DS3 to stop working in GT6, but only in GT6. In other games the DS3 still works fine. I think that was when my son thought I was the problem.
 
Hi, i recently bought the Fanatec Podium Racing F1 wheelbase and i have a force feedback issue only with Gran Turismo Sport.
The problem is: When you pause the game and continue the wheel becomes very heavy and loses most of its ffb, if you pause and resume again everything comes back to normal. This only happens on GT Sport all other games are ok.
I spoke with fanatec and they told me if this only happens on one game only it most probably a game issue.
Perhaps the latest firmware update for your wheel is causing the issue with GT Sport, try an earlier firmware update and see if it fixes the problem.
 
Good morning.


I have done mission 8 on the 6th stage, 30 laps on lago maggiore. When i finished it cant connect to the network, i set off internet and continue playing, doing all the 7th stage.

Next day, internet on, logged correctly, i have the cars i bought at the end of the previous day, but progress seems to be stuck on mission 8 of the 6th stage, its marked as unfinished, but it shows my finishing time and my position... Any clues what can i do to fix this? Im incredibly disappointed with this game, and ive been playing since gt1...
 
Anyone having issues connecting to the network in GTsport? And yes, my internet is fine and I’m connected to PlayStation Network even.

*edit

Just got reconnected. Not sure if PSN or GTsport server issue honestly.
 
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