Gt7 ffb query

[mr-ramsbottom]

The more you are aggressively turning the wheel the more the torque has to shift, this creates heat that heats the internals (the cogs and belts expand and the motor will be less efficient)

Typically if you are understeering a lot or turning aggressively constantly this is aggressive and works the base quite hard.

To be fair it really shouldn’t be an issue with GT just in how dialled back the torque and sensitivity is.

The wheel that was used in several GTWS was TGTs and these are the fastest guys on the planet driving the most extreme car the game has and they don’t have problems.

I see well now that I've finally got the TDF vibration working I can actually tell now when I'm over turning via vibration, the TDF is good for that, as I said earlier it just want working when the cars where set to there default degree f angle if either 720 or 900, the. Boom as soon as you change the degree on the fly to 360 it starts working.

You mentioned you had belt expand to, I just don't know at this stage if it's that or it was simply loose ?

But as for steering many top racers and coaches identify that people don't actually turn there wheel enough into the corners, it's a fine line, but with this wheel set to 360 you only have to turn half as much as if you where at 720. Which I must prefer.

The good thing about the TDF on this wheel is it does let you know if your over turning.

I recall us chatting in a previous post now, do you still have your Tgt or wish you still had. It

 

[newmedia_dev]

But as for steering many top racers and coaches identify that people don't actually turn there wheel enough into the corners,

Turning enough and smoothly enough isn’t the the same as yanking the wheel, now being super quick on giving some oppo is very different to turning smoothly enough and at a pace that is matching your reduction in braking (trail braking or the alternative styles which is turn and coast)

Honestly you are focusing on the details that really come later than just getting good braking consistency and smooth error prone laps.

The wheel is not the best thing about wheel set ups, it’s mastering the footwork that’s the difference, this is why people with old G29s get in to the top 50s because they focus on the stuff that matters the most….how slow do I need to be and how fast can I hit the throttle smoothly.

The wheel is just a fidelity layer. That can complicate things. Immersive yes, the reason you go quicker…no.

I recall us chatting in a previous post now, do you still have your Tgt or wish you still had. It

I have a DD pro and I miss the TGT2 and the pedals I had but I’m as quick or quicker now and the DDP functions as expected and direct drive is always going to be more responsive.

But the quality of the TM wheel and its usability was next level!

The TLCMs can’t be beaten at the price point for a loadcell and spring.

I don’t think I have much more to add, feedback is “fine” for me weak and constantly changing but that’s the game not me.

My TGT never missed a beat, just loose in some sessions with no mods.

 

[mr-ramsbottom]

Turning enough and smoothly enough isn’t the the same as yanking the wheel, now being super quick on giving some oppo is very different to turning smoothly enough and at a pace that is matching your reduction in braking (trail braking or the alternative styles which is turn and coast)

Honestly you are focusing on the details that really come later than just getting good braking consistency and smooth error prone laps.

The wheel is not the best thing about wheel set ups, it’s mastering the footwork that’s the difference, this is why people with old G29s get in to the top 50s because they focus on the stuff that matters the most….how slow do I need to be and how fast can I hit the throttle smoothly.

The wheel is just a fidelity layer. That can complicate things. Immersive yes, the reason you go quicker…no.

I have a DD pro and I miss the TGT2 and the pedals I had but I’m as quick or quicker now and the DDP functions as expected and direct drive is always going to be more responsive.

But the quality of the TM wheel and its usability was next level!

The TLCMs can’t be beaten at the price point for a loadcell and spring.

I don’t think I have much more to add, feedback is “fine” for me weak and constantly changing but that’s the game not me.

My TGT never missed a beat, just loose in some sessions with no mods.

Thanks for your reply, im looking at the DD extreme to purchase but probably with a pc too, my pedals inputs I monitors on ever corner and exit i berry really over brake or accelerate, I feel that if I had good feeling of grip with how good I am on my pedals inputs I would improve more, the reviews I'm seeing are a bit of mixed bag, some saying if your going to buy a DD extreme just for Gt7 you will be disappointed whilst others are staying ffb is definitely more responsive on the extreme and freeling of grip is more pronounced, then others.saying the extreme should make you quicker because better ffb helps you to respond better A review like yours did comment on how well the fanatec DD pro with. Oost kit stays at good temp over long periods.

A few reviews also saying it's worth the upgrade from the DD pro to the extreme on gt7

Don't know which way to go really,

The DD pro with a booster kit at 8nm whilst the extreme at 16nm s limited to only half its amount on gt7 how true that still is i don't know, not that strong ffb bothers me just that I can't see the upgrade being worth it for Gt7 alone if the dd pro is just as responsive as the extreme.

 

[newmedia_dev]

I’d try both the DDP and DDP Ex on full torque, I don’t think a lot of people realise just how much a constant 8NM force is let alone a 16nm peak force is. It’s great for a couple of laps and to be fair GT7 errs on the side of caution and kills most of the FFB in crashes but even trying to catch a slide with a correction (not even opposite lock) can be quite jarring to the shoulders if you aren’t used to it.

It’s not really the amount of steering resistance (torque) that is the thing a lot of people want, it’s a more connected/realistic weight with sensitive road/contact feedback, you don’t need lots of high torque for that, even non power assisted steering cars naturally feel lighter the faster you go but ad very slow speeds the steering is heavy, speed up a bit and the same rotations require a lot less effort.

As I said previously it’s how you manage braking and throttle that are the deciding factors when looking for performance not how hard or light the wheel feels for turning 10-20-50 degrees for a short time.

I personally aim for a natural consistent weight in my wheel rather than worry about the peak numbers, if you are doing it right you shouldn’t need to hit those peak forces.

 

[mr-ramsbottom]

I’d try both the DDP and DDP Ex on full torque, I don’t think a lot of people realise just how much a constant 8NM force is let alone a 16nm peak force is. It’s great for a couple of laps and to be fair GT7 errs on the side of caution and kills most of the FFB in crashes but even trying to catch a slide with a correction (not even opposite lock) can be quite jarring to the shoulders if you aren’t used to it.

It’s not really the amount of steering resistance (torque) that is the thing a lot of people want, it’s a more connected/realistic weight with sensitive road/contact feedback, you don’t need lots of high torque for that, even non power assisted steering cars naturally feel lighter the faster you go but ad very slow speeds the steering is heavy, speed up a bit and the same rotations require a lot less effort.

As I said previously it’s how you manage braking and throttle that are the deciding factors when looking for performance not how hard or light the wheel feels for turning 10-20-50 degrees for a short time.

I personally aim for a natural consistent weight in my wheel rather than worry about the peak numbers, if you are doing it right you shouldn’t need to hit those peak forces.

Maybe you may be able to help out with some info here.

Something is bugging me with the TGT2 wheel.

I seem to be much quicker when I set the wheel to 360 degree lock on the fly when a race start but because this tightens the wheel so much it's quite easy to turn to quicky and when the wheel degree is set to a standard position of 720 degrees like in as in before you change the stiffness of degree on the fly I generally tend to not turn in enough.

But I'm Suspecting it's it's more than the reason I've just mentioned I'm suspecting there's something going on with the steering inputs not corresponding with the game.

For instance if I don't change the degree of angle of the wheel when the race starts, and even if I go around the track and don't lose traction don't wheel spin out of corners and keep the racing line, my lap times will just be so much slower than if I put the wheel into a stiffer lock when the race starts and drive around the track exactly the same way, Any ideas what could be happening here, I suspect the stiffer degree is keeping the wheels straighter but I can't be sure

 

[mr-ramsbottom]

I'm still undecided, as to which DD wheel to choose,

I've been looking at all the settings.that can be changed on the fly with fanatec wheels such as sen, NDP, nfr, int,fei,for,spr,spr,blu,sho,mps,brf,

Also in game ffb and sensitivity can be changed as well the ffb from gt7 , I wonder if that gives the fanatec wheel users an advantage over other wheel users ?. Or whether this really helps with fine tuning the ffb, I just wonder if all of these settings can actually be changed on the fly as I know with my wheel gt7 just overrides every setting you make with your pc.

It's occured to me today that ffb seems a whole lot better in none sport mode races than it does in sport mode races,.

This leaves me wondering why that is, it could one of two reasons why, maybe ffb is just difficult to get right in online live sport mode races, or the ffb is deliberately made poorer by poly to give controller drivers a fairer shot at competing ?

Does anyone else notice this difference ?

 

[newmedia_dev]

It's occured to me today that ffb seems a whole lot better in none sport mode races than it does in sport mode races,.

This leaves me wondering why that is, it could one of two reasons why, maybe ffb is just difficult to get right in online live sport mode races, or the ffb is deliberately made poorer by poly to give controller drivers a fairer shot at competing ?

It’s the latency, no 2 lobbies are consistent enough to even benchmark. Some races it’s full strength others everyone is amber.

I do think you are really really over thinking a lot of this. I used custom settings and just went back to the default ones with the exception of braking force, I find the lesser pressure suits my left foot better.

Some people find better feel with less rotation on the wheel or lower damping but these are people in the top 500-100, all of the people I know in the top 100 aren’t running loads of custom settings…several are using controllers…

That all said the one thing I notice is the game in single player will run a higher base torque because the AI cars are tank like, in online the torque multiplier drops a lot especially with the more down force the car has

 

[Nebuc72]

Online and offline run on different physics. Not sure to what capacity this is, but it's easily visible, just go and try and flip a car online. Soon find out that you can't.

I think a lot of things are 'simplified' online - presumably for networking reasons? Not a clue.

 

[mr-ramsbottom]

It’s the latency, no 2 lobbies are consistent enough to even benchmark. Some races it’s full strength others everyone is amber.

I do think you are really really over thinking a lot of this. I used custom settings and just went back to the default ones with the exception of braking force, I find the lesser pressure suits my left foot better.

Some people find better feel with less rotation on the wheel or lower damping but these are people in the top 500-100, all of the people I know in the top 100 aren’t running loads of custom settings…several are using controllers…

That all said the one thing I notice is the game in single player will run a higher base torque because the AI cars are tank like, in online the torque multiplier drops a lot especially with the more down force the car has

WHen you play online sport mode mode is it in streaming mode bases ?

Coz I know with any streaming game apps ffb is so difficult to get right.

I use geforce now to play lmu, and I can get my wheel to work via an Xbox emulator x360ce, it works good enough but the ffb cant always keep up.