GTP_WRS Week 132 : Screaming Monaco

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EDK

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GT6 Week 132 : Screaming Monaco

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Hotlap Event in Arcade Mode Time Trial

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Honda S2000 LM Race Car

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Côte d'Azur


:: Only Open to Qualified GTP_Registered Members ::

:: Members are not obligated to take part ::



Race Details:
  • Mode: Arcade Mode > Single Player > Time Trial
  • Track: City Circuits > Côte d'Azur
  • Car Type: Garage/Favorites Car
  • Make: Japan > Honda
  • Model: S2000 LM Race Car
  • Power: 331 bhp (after oil change)
  • Weight: 1,050 kg
  • PP: 492
Driving Options:
  • Transmission: Auto or Manual
  • Tires: Racing Hard
  • Driving Line | Traction Control | ASM | ABS: Optional
  • Brake Balance: Adjustment Allowed
  • Active Steering | Skid Recovery Force: Prohibited
  • Tuning: Added Parts Not Allowed. Tuning Prohibited
  • In-Race RA Functions: Allowed As Available. Brake Balance changes Allowed.
Course Settings:
  • Time: N/A
  • Weather: N/A
  • Grip Reduction on Track Edge: Real

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Race Specifics:
  • The event MUST be run using your registered account
  • The use of the clutch that is found on the G25, G27, and other high end racing wheels is strictly prohibited.
  • Use of the Handbrake is Prohibited.
  • No Contact with walls or other objects. Any contact with walls, no matter how minor, will result in a DQ Don't hit the damn walls!
  • The tarmac inside the rumbles at the chicane is NOT track.

    CtedAzur_1.jpg




Steward's Comments:
A driver's car at a driver's track this week. Have fun!


Viewing your Time Splits:
  • You need to make sure you save the 'Save Best Lap Replay' (ghost replay), not the 'Save Replay' (See pic below)
  • To view your best lap replay, go to 'My Home' and watch the replay from there using the 'Gallery' option.
  • Live timing monitor does not work properly, so we have to use a small trick to view splits.
  • While viewing your Replay, pause the lap by hitting start, before the end of the first sector.
  • While keeping the replay paused, advance the replay, using the forward arrow on the replay HUD. This will advance the replay to the end of the first sector. That's your T1 split, write it down.
  • Advance the replay again. That will show the lap to date time on the screen, this is your first and second sector time, added together.
  • To post your T1 Splits, simply post the lap to date times that are shown in the middle of the screen. Do not try to calculate the actual T2 split time, the Fetchbot will do that for you.
SaveBestLapIcon.png

(Best Lap Replay Icon)

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Standard Clean OLR Rules:
  • At Least 2 Tires must be in contact with track at all times.

    • In situations where contact with the track is not possible because tires are airborne (above the ground), then the run is only legal if at least two tires in-line would have made contact with the track if the car were not airborne.
    • If track contact cannot be 100% determined, then consider it dirty.
  • Rumble/ripple strips are part of the track.
  • No contact with walls or objects, visible or invisible
  • If you're not 100% sure that your lap is clean, then consider it dirty
  • No hybrids
  • No cheating of any kind,these are relaxed races and we are experienced racers, we know what times can be done,and we can read your mind.We will know.
  • Nothing that goes against the spirit of the rules

Thread rules:

The following information cannot be discussed in this thread (they can, however, be discussed on MSN or via other private conversation methods):

  • Total Lap Time
  • Any information which can be used to infer your total laptime

The following information can be discussed in this thread :

  • The first 2 splits: T1 & T2 times
  • Any settings discussion
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Submission:

All submissions must be sent by PM (Subject title: GTP_WRS Week 132 Submission ) to (WRSFetchbot):

  • Then attach your 'Best Lap'/'Ghost' replay in zip file form. Everyone submits a replay instead of listing a lap time.
  • You will need to put something in the message body in order to begin a conversation. It doesn't matter what you put, it can even be 1 letter or symbol. Nobody but the Fetchbot is going to see it, so it's sort of pointless, anyhow.
  • You will get an automated response within 15min, letting you know whether your submission was accepted, or if you had an error.
  • If you have an error, don't panic. Just review the instructions for submission and submit again. If you are having trouble and cannot figure it out, please post your question in the race thread.
  • Users can ask the bot for the current submitted time by sending a message with the Subject: "GTP_WRS Week XX Get Entry" and any text in the body.
  • Users can delete their submitted time by sending a message with the Subject: "GTP_WRS Week XX Remove Entry" and any text in the body.
  • If you want to submit multiple times in the week that is still not a problem. Just reply to the conversation with your new time and new replay. Fetchy always uses the last submitted time as the final one.
  • See this screenshot as an example on how to submit:

  • The deadline is Monday, August 1st 11:59pm GMT
  • If you are unsure of the deadline try this site

Why Use GMT?:

GMT is World Time and the basis of every world time zone which sets the time of day and is at the centre of the time zone map. GMT sets current time or official time around the globe. Most time changes are measured by GMT. Although GMT has been replaced by atomic time (UTC) it is still widely regarded as the correct time for every international time zone.

Replay Checking:
  • Everyone is required to submit a replay for verification. This happens when you submit to the Fetchbot, and the replays will be visible in the leaderboard, once we've reached the event deadline
  • Participants will be expected to check each others' replays for cleanliness, for replays marked in the Results thread as (Check Needed)
  • Video replays are not accepted as a form of verification

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Good luck, :gtpflag:
OLR Team
 
First splits, not fast but a starting ground. Too many taps against walls during fast laps made it tough to just get the first splits up. There Is a ton of time to be had for this combo. Here it is though


28.650
75.233

Not bad for a D3 guy, but I see so much time to make up in this combo. D2 guys watch out here I come looking for you ;-).... or maybe that was just a taunt that I can't uphold. Who knows :-)
 
Not bad for a D3 guy, but I see so much time to make up in this combo. D2 guys watch out here I come looking for you ;-).... or maybe that was just a taunt that I can't uphold. Who knows :-)
:mischievous: Go get 'em.
 
28.104
74.304

. Still have a ton to go, dealing with barrier limits I feel it is going to be a TT of inches dealing with barely not touching walls... however I believe a couple of flags will help in this race, even the one covering my driver view. Not being able to see the track has definitely improved my lap times ;-)

20160724_184600.jpg
 
Keep at it


Good 3rd lap, but also don't throw out what your final times are. Keep at it, get that Laptimes down. Even untuned this car is quite a special beast. Remember you have a week to chop time off. :-)
 
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I feel like crap because I was too lazy to read the entirety of the thread. Please forgive me, oh powerful moderator.

@miata13B yeah it's a beast but I find myself slowing down so that I don't risk hitting the walls, and being careful with my inputs so that I don't oversteer . I lie to myself and say "if I had a wheel I could do all this because I would have more control and whatever instead of admitting that I'm a subpar driver. (whoah depression where did you come from?)
 
I feel like crap because I was too lazy to read the entirety of the thread. Please forgive me, oh powerful moderator.

@miata13B yeah it's a beast but I find myself slowing down so that I don't risk hitting the walls, and being careful with my inputs so that I don't oversteer . I lie to myself and say "if I had a wheel I could do all this because I would have more control and whatever instead of admitting that I'm a subpar driver. (whoah depression where did you come from?)

I wasn't saying that you weren't nice. I was simply being a brown noser because I'm kinda terrified of authority figures.

Hey I've been a part of this forum longer then most here. You don't have to brown nose, you just need to use a little thinking about others and realizing everyone has opinions. Regardless of that, I have seen many "sub par" drivers turn out laps and races well beyond most can obtain. Keep at it, and push the envelope, that is what Time Trials are all about. I wish I took this advice a little more seriously myself ;-)

EDK
I'm hoping that's a joke, because I was actually pretty nice.
Nice, I was quiving in my boots with your posts ;-)
 
Hello again all, looks like there's some new faces since I last gave this a go.

Could have some time this week to give this a go. Doubt I'm near my d2 bronze status anymore though....
 
Looks like there is a ton of time to chop off this now. I'll get an opportunity later in the day after work. Hopefully I'll be able to string together a clean lap because I know my first splits are slow there are many points that can be hit harder on the track but I seem to tap a wall ever so slightly making it dirty.
 
I'll kick off for D2 Oops I'm D1 now :lol:

26.784
1:11.500

Lots of time to be made but whenever I find it I've instantly lost it on the same corner. Yay.
 
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New an improved, much better then doing this after drinking 3 days straight and trying it...

27.063
72.813

There is still a ton of time to put together, which if in perfect circumstances and enough laps I feel I could do it. My goal is to take 5 seconds off my final line from the beginning of this. Time will tell, I already know I am probably losing over .2 in sectors 1 and 2 just due to shifting. A point I need to work on.

Running a BB of 3/5 with 0 abs, I never see more them using 75% of the brake except for the bus stop, and with that it hits 100% for a fraction of a second, maybe under a tenth. Not sure if this is a good method to use or if I should lower BB and prolong braking at certain points... anyways, more time to come off now that I am closing the ballpark, time to be less conservative with lapping.
 
26.852
71.852

852 seems like a repeating issue... anyways new BB 2/3. Longer strokes, but minus 1 turn less time on it. Also breaking bad shifting habits of downshifting to get wheel spin and rotation. It is a turn by turn battle and it is tough. I still see more time out there...

Getting on throttle faster and more accurately, getting off the trail braking faster, quick downshift rotation, and trusting grip are the 4 areas that will increase the lap. So much to work on and less then a week to make it happen...
 
27.021
71.138

It took me 15 laps in a single run to get a completely clean lap, it was either kissing a wall with the car's sides or going straight into the barriers.

Gonna take it nice and steady, this takes some fancy inputs to get it right.
 
Hi,

I'm able to set a good ("good" from the view of a D3Bronze-Guy) lap very early - but then there is no further improvement over the next hundred tries.

Running a BB of 3/5 with 0 abs, I never see more them using 75% of the brake except for the bus stop, and with that it hits 100% for a fraction of a second, maybe under a tenth.

Maybe this is the biggest mistake I make. I brake "digital", full brake or nothing. I also miss the feeling on the brakes, there is no difference in braking only a bit or full.

Could this be just missing practise in braking with the left foot?
Any suggestions, generally or for this event?

Thx,
D.
 
Maybe this is the biggest mistake I make. I brake "digital", full brake or nothing. I also miss the feeling on the brakes, there is no difference in braking only a bit or full.

Could this be just missing practise in braking with the left foot?
Any suggestions, generally or for this event?

Thx,
D.
That's what I saw on your Tsukuba lap, but you were also braking so late that there was no option but to brake 100%.

I'm not sure which pedals/wheel you have, so not sure what you're experiencing in terms of pedal feedback.

Anything that offers a bit of resistance should make partial braking manageable. That's going to be G25/27 and up, from a pedal perspective.

If you are using DFGT, some guys have gotten creative with using sponges or rubber under the brake pedal to give more resistance. The key watchout there would be to leave enough travel that you can still brake 100% when you need to.

I think you are going to find that most if not all the wheel users here left foot brake. There's a bit of required practice, for sure, but should not really keep you from managing different brake pressures for different situations.
 
So far as I know, GT6 will calibrate your max brake input based on how far you can or do push your pedal. If your first brake action is half the physical travel that is where GT will calibrate 100%. If, the next time you push the brake pedal, it physically travels farther, GT will recalibrate that travel to 100%. So, if you have some device that limits the physical travel of your pedal, it won't matter, GT will calibrate 100% at the last greatest physical travel and it does it on the fly. Pretty sure it does the gas and clutch pedals the same way.
 
So far as I know, GT6 will calibrate your max brake input based on how far you can or do push your pedal. If your first brake action is half the physical travel that is where GT will calibrate 100%. If, the next time you push the brake pedal, it physically travels farther, GT will recalibrate that travel to 100%. So, if you have some device that limits the physical travel of your pedal, it won't matter, GT will calibrate 100% at the last greatest physical travel and it does it on the fly. Pretty sure it does the gas and clutch pedals the same way.
That might depend on which wheel you are using. Some of the wheels (and controllers) are game supported, others are not.

I use a Fanatec now, and I'm 99.9% sure that the screen does not register me putting in 100% brake input unless I actually push the pedal to full travel.

Personally I would assume that if the HUD does not show 100% brake pressure, that it's not 100%. That's somewhat supported by people having flickering issues with Pots going bad, etc., and their lap performance being subsequently affected.

In either case, I think @DeuxMilles should focus on making earlier decisions, being smooth first, and then gaining speed as he becomes comfortable with that.

Trying to go fast by first going as fast as you think you can go does not normally produce the best lap results.
 
Hi,

I'm able to set a good ("good" from the view of a D3Bronze-Guy) lap very early - but then there is no further improvement over the next hundred tries.



Maybe this is the biggest mistake I make. I brake "digital", full brake or nothing. I also miss the feeling on the brakes, there is no difference in braking only a bit or full.

Could this be just missing practise in braking with the left foot?
Any suggestions, generally or for this event?

Thx,
D.

I do not have much advice for you, but I will give what I have. I have never used the DFGT wheel setup before, but this may help.

Unfortunately, my phone is not allowing me to paste links on GTP for some reason or I would direct you to the thread I was looking for. In the Sim Hardware section of GTP you can find people who have modes their DFGT just like @EDK said. The better you can get the modulation/feel of that brake pedal you will notice an immense improvement.

Left foot braking does take practice, if you have ever raced go-karts before it will be easier to adapt using your left foot. If not, then it will take time to train the sensitivity of your left foot to brake. Do not be discouraged at all while trying to learn how to do it effectively for yourself. You will miss braking points, you will over brake and you will under brake. It is a fact with every new technique you try to teach yourself, you gotta keep a cool head knowing there will be mistakes. I can't stress that enough.

Using Brake balance is more of what works for you then what everyone else uses. Now trying someone else's BB out can help and sometimes lead you closer to what works best for you. A lot of people use the ABS on their cars for good reason, it keeps the car from locking up and generating massive understeer or prevents sudden snap oversteer moments depending on when you are braking. It may not be good practice, but I utilize the 0 ABS because within time of using it the slight rotation I can get from a fractional lockup can help out. It can also be devastating towards a quick lap too.

I hope this helps out, but use what helps you out, listen to all the Aliens first and foremost too. They are fast for a reason and they always have good advice.
 
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