GTSPORT TUNING GUIDE
- Thread starter GTPGhost
- 23 comments
- 122,381 views
- 94
- United States
Good find! I'm still not sure about the Toe setting. I've played GT and FM since their originals. FM I usually run .01 Toe in up front( helps with turn in). GT I've been using .10, and reducing rear to .40. The cars feel great so I'm happy. Just not entirely sure, have only played a few hours so far.
- 2,647
It doesn't look very useful lol
- 94
- United States
It gives a more thourough explanation of the settings.
- 4
- United States
Exactly. GTS is a little vague with tuning. This definitely leads you in a direction to move sliders.
- 1,078
- United States
- DGXR
- DGXR1
There are errors in the tuning guide. I just started into it and found this:
In the real world, increasing the value of the final gear (higher ratio) would provide quicker acceleration and reduce top speed.
Reducing the final gear value (lower ratio) would give a higher top speed with slower acceleration.
Also I am surprised that the guide is only 7 pages. I guess it's good enough... it has the basics. There is no substitute for experience!
In the real world, increasing the value of the final gear (higher ratio) would provide quicker acceleration and reduce top speed.
Reducing the final gear value (lower ratio) would give a higher top speed with slower acceleration.
Also I am surprised that the guide is only 7 pages. I guess it's good enough... it has the basics. There is no substitute for experience!
- 4
- United States
There will be an updated one (or a more detailed one) very soon I imagine.There are errors in the tuning guide. I just started into it and found this:
View attachment 681623
In the real world, increasing the value of the final gear (higher ratio) would provide quicker acceleration and reduce top speed.
Reducing the final gear value (lower ratio) would give a higher top speed with slower acceleration.
Also I am surprised that the guide is only 7 pages. I guess it's good enough... it has the basics. There is no substitute for experience!
- 448
- Melbourne
You should drop by @Jeje6410's garage.
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/thre...une-garage-updates-regurlaly-06-01-18.361318/
There is a tuned M6 listed there. You could use / modify the gear setup in that tune or you could ask for some help from him in getting the gears you are after.
Good luck!
Thanks
Forgott to tell you that it is gr 3
Forgott to tell you that it is m6 gr3, thank you for fast reply
- 9,053
- Murica
- BasedAckbar
So is tuning the suspension still the same as in beta?
IE the lower and stiffer the better?
IE the lower and stiffer the better?
- 65
- United States
Depends on the car. You want to tune by feel in order to achieve the desired handling and on a few different tracks.
- 173
- The Hawkeye State
- craw4dm
Forgive me guys and gals, for I'm a newb when it comes to GTS and any driving game, but why "tune" your car? Hasn't the manufacturers already tuned them for us, or are we tuning them for our own particular driving styles? If the latter is the case, then how can there be cut-and-dry guides out there for us to follow?
TYIA
TYIA
- 65
- United States
The point of tuning a car depends on the goal you're trying to achieve. A car tuned for drag is not going to have the same settings as one tuned for circuit/drift etc.... for the most effective/best results. Then you factor in the fact that not everyone has the same driving style, therefore there is NEVER going to be a single tune for everyone. Some people like softer setups, others hard, loose, etc..... Porsches might make the best sports cars to somebody but someone would argue Ferrari is better in that regard. You can make the best strawberry ice cream in the world but i'll never eat it. The question is what do YOU want?
With that said the setting on GTsport are generic/friendly. They do not reflect how the cars are set up in real life. The cars in game (road cars in particular) feel too soft and overdamped on the rebound settings if you know anything about shocks.
In general I found that toe in hugs corners, and toe out prevents oversteer. So for instance a front toe in would turn in quicker with a rear tow out would prevent your rear from sliding outward. I suppose front toe out would cause understeer, and rear tow in would make for tighter corners. Of course this is per car, so different cars can have highly variable settings. Lmk if you found this helpful, I think it’s generally appropriate.
- 3,954
- Laguna
- Alpha_Cipher1
That guy from reddit literally ripped off from GT6's Beyond The Apex Magazine and changed the colors.
What the hell man.
What the hell man.
- 6,293
- Canada
Edit: accidentally hit “post” while I was still typing. @craw4dm , not sure if you’ll get notified if the my quote because it was in an edit.
1. First, none of the base tunes in GTS are accurate. All the cars come with a generic base tune on them when you acquire them, but that tune is not accurately modelled after any real life tune. This is why we see, for example, a BMW M4 having be exact same damper, roll bar, and toe settings, as a Subaru BRZ. These are not accurate manufacturer settings, they’re generic PD fudgery.
2. Even if the base tunes in GTS were accurate, there’s still reason to tune. When a manufacturer adjusts settings for a road car, they set the car up in a way that that Safety and Comfort are the primary objects. A car tuned to drive on a knife edge at the limit of grip is neither safe nor comfortable.
Typically, when taking a road car and setting it up for performance driving, you lower the ride height and stiffen the springs, dampers, and roll bars. This makes the car much more responsive, and less prone to being “floaty”, which can cause the balance of the car to be upset during a variety of situations.
3. To add speed. This is mostly with the transmission. Again, a road car’s transmission is set up to handle a variety of situations, from driving through a parking lot, to getting max fuel economy at 100km/h for hours on end. Typically, race cars don’t do those things, so their transmissions don’t need to be able to handle those situations. This means we can tune the transmissions to provide maximum acceleration (and sometimes enhance drive-ability) in the range of speeds we’ll see on a given circuit.
4. Personal preference. Every driver likes their car to feel a certain way when driving on the limit. Some people like a little more of a pointy front end, they’re comfortable controlling oversteer. Other people like a more dull front end and a very stable rear, which allows them to really chuck and throw the car into corners without having to be so delicate with their inputs. Some people like to roll as much apex speed as possible, while others like to diamond corners so they can square off their exits. All of these different techniques and preferences require different settings.
5. Circuit specific. Manufacturer settings are set in a way that a car can handle a huge variety of situations. Parking lot to freeway, asphalt, gravel, snow, potholes, speed bumps, you name it. Racecars only have to do deal with racetracks, no speed bumps or washboards, just flat asphalt. Well, relatively flat asphalt, and that changes from one circuit to the next. Some tracks, like for example the Nordeschief, or Bathurst, are really bumpy, so they require suspension settings which can handle the bumps. On the other hand, a circuit like Suzuka, or some of the fictional PD circuits, they’re smooth as glass, so you can really lower and stiffen the car, which allows you to be extremely precise with your placement of the car.
It gets even more complex in cars which produce downforce. For each circuit, tbere’s basically a “magic number” for how much downforce you want to run, which is the ideal compromise between grip and top speed (sometimes there’s a small range of ideal downforce, not just one ideal setting). But downforce doesn’t work all on its own - ride height, as well as rake (the difference in front/rear ride height) make a massive difference on downforce levels (generally speaking, the lower the car, the more downforce. The more forward rake, the more downforce). Furthermore, springs and rolebars can have an effect on how much downforce a car can produce (less body roll = more downforce).
Many reasons to tune:
1. First, none of the base tunes in GTS are accurate. All the cars come with a generic base tune on them when you acquire them, but that tune is not accurately modelled after any real life tune. This is why we see, for example, a BMW M4 having be exact same damper, roll bar, and toe settings, as a Subaru BRZ. These are not accurate manufacturer settings, they’re generic PD fudgery.
2. Even if the base tunes in GTS were accurate, there’s still reason to tune. When a manufacturer adjusts settings for a road car, they set the car up in a way that that Safety and Comfort are the primary objects. A car tuned to drive on a knife edge at the limit of grip is neither safe nor comfortable.
Typically, when taking a road car and setting it up for performance driving, you lower the ride height and stiffen the springs, dampers, and roll bars. This makes the car much more responsive, and less prone to being “floaty”, which can cause the balance of the car to be upset during a variety of situations.
3. To add speed. This is mostly with the transmission. Again, a road car’s transmission is set up to handle a variety of situations, from driving through a parking lot, to getting max fuel economy at 100km/h for hours on end. Typically, race cars don’t do those things, so their transmissions don’t need to be able to handle those situations. This means we can tune the transmissions to provide maximum acceleration (and sometimes enhance drive-ability) in the range of speeds we’ll see on a given circuit.
4. Personal preference. Every driver likes their car to feel a certain way when driving on the limit. Some people like a little more of a pointy front end, they’re comfortable controlling oversteer. Other people like a more dull front end and a very stable rear, which allows them to really chuck and throw the car into corners without having to be so delicate with their inputs. Some people like to roll as much apex speed as possible, while others like to diamond corners so they can square off their exits. All of these different techniques and preferences require different settings.
5. Circuit specific. Manufacturer settings are set in a way that a car can handle a huge variety of situations. Parking lot to freeway, asphalt, gravel, snow, potholes, speed bumps, you name it. Racecars only have to do deal with racetracks, no speed bumps or washboards, just flat asphalt. Well, relatively flat asphalt, and that changes from one circuit to the next. Some tracks, like for example the Nordeschief, or Bathurst, are really bumpy, so they require suspension settings which can handle the bumps. On the other hand, a circuit like Suzuka, or some of the fictional PD circuits, they’re smooth as glass, so you can really lower and stiffen the car, which allows you to be extremely precise with your placement of the car.
It gets even more complex in cars which produce downforce. For each circuit, tbere’s basically a “magic number” for how much downforce you want to run, which is the ideal compromise between grip and top speed (sometimes there’s a small range of ideal downforce, not just one ideal setting). But downforce doesn’t work all on its own - ride height, as well as rake (the difference in front/rear ride height) make a massive difference on downforce levels (generally speaking, the lower the car, the more downforce. The more forward rake, the more downforce). Furthermore, springs and rolebars can have an effect on how much downforce a car can produce (less body roll = more downforce).
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- 6,293
- Canada
- 154
- Huntsville AL
- takervader
Because it does not tell you anything beyond a basic level, which I learned way back when. it does not guide you towards making any changes beyond rudimentary understanding, nor does it give one the reasoning behind multiple changes at once, like changing toe and camber at the same time.
Reading just a few how-to posts from a few tuners here gives way better understanding, thus not particularly useful.
