Help me hookup my car please

  • Thread starter Thread starter sicbeing
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thanks JP. Yea, i am going to eventually ask around my shops for info/help etc, once I get the money, im not gonna be like "yea someday im gonna...".

I can prolly shop around for a new car by the end of this year, depending on how much the xbox360 + a few games will run me. Any suggestions for me? I'm not sure exactly myself, maybe a late 90's car? Ive seen a few RX7s from the late 80s but they look like trash and I wouldnt be able to keep up with what would be needed with that car, unless ijust got help from my shop constantly. But id also prefer a v4 or wtv , more gas to the mile = the better. (i know u cant say i want a fast car thats also good on mileage, but somewhere in the middle i guess is what id want.)

-EDIT-

Maybe by the time I want a used car there may be some SRT-4's on the used market enough for me to browse, and i know that car obliterates gas but... cheap for good power stock.
 
sicbeing
thanks JP. Yea, i am going to eventually ask around my shops for info/help etc, once I get the money, im not gonna be like "yea someday im gonna...".

I can prolly shop around for a new car by the end of this year, depending on how much the xbox360 + a few games will run me. Any suggestions for me? I'm not sure exactly myself, maybe a late 90's car? Ive seen a few RX7s from the late 80s but they look like trash and I wouldnt be able to keep up with what would be needed with that car, unless ijust got help from my shop constantly. But id also prefer a v4 or wtv , more gas to the mile = the better. (i know u cant say i want a fast car thats also good on mileage, but somewhere in the middle i guess is what id want.)

-EDIT-

Maybe by the time I want a used car there may be some SRT-4's on the used market enough for me to browse, and i know that car obliterates gas but... cheap for good power stock.
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In regards to car choice, one thing you'll recall from GT is FWD cars don't make good high performance machines. I saw an awesome Nissan 240SX in a mag. It's RWD cheap and would make a great starter car. The RX's with the rotary motor are a handfull to modify. A 300 ZX would be a great choice as well. I don't know what's wrong with me I keep talking about Nissan's and I'm a Toyota man. But all Toyos really ever had is the Supra and the MR2. Both EXELLENT choices if I might say. I would initially want to get some real muscle but everybody has Mustangs and Camaros. My hot rod back in the day was an '82 Z-28. I'm also looking around for a nice tuner car. My Toyo 4WD will be paid for soon. I too am having a hard time narrowing it down. 1st choice is a Supra but you wouldn't believe what those are still going for nearly a decade later.

Also, don't just let the guys at the shop do the work for you. Get in there and learn all you can about it. Because you will be tuning and tweaking this new found hobby on a regular basis.
 
JParker
Also, don't just let the guys at the shop do the work for you. Get in there and learn all you can about it. Because you will be tuning and tweaking this new found hobby on a regular basis.
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Actually I am going to start training in the next month or two on car parts and mechanics, im training to become an insurance estimator.

Ive been told in the past that those nissans are awsome choices for first street cars but i dont know anything about them, got any specs for any year of the cars u mentioned?
 
I'd like to throw a 1990-1994 Eclipse/Talon Laser into the mix Cracker has provided. Cheap, simple to modify, fast, 20+mpg, etc.

Yes, I am spouting some brand loyalty, but you don't see me recommending a Rover. ;)
 
JParker
one thing you'll recall from GT is FWD cars don't make good high performance machines.
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This statement is true in Gran Turismo, but not in real life. A properly built FWD car can be just as fast or faster then a RWD or AWD vehicle. No, i'm not saying that FWD can always be faster, obviously RWD and AWD have advantages as far as traction and weight balance/transfer go. What i'm saying is FWD cars CAN be great high performance machines. For instance Canada's fastest FWD runs mid 8's in the quarter mile all day.
 
Are you sure you want to do the paintjob and body kit first? I think replacing the crank, exhaust and tires would be a start. Then work on the engine, and removing/replacing interior and exterior body parts with lighter ones, or none at all. Generally, you want to have a bit of go, before the show.

Since you've got the crank out of the way, you could save up for a bored and stroke job, a 1,2, or 3mm bore could probably get you another .2-.8L of displacement, depending on how many cylinders you have. Assuming you're using the 4 banger, that's around .3, I'm guessing.

I have these sites for the equations, which I'm too lazy to check to write here, but:

http://www.engineersedge.com/motors/hollow_cylinder_axis_torque_force_equation.htm

And

http://www.engineersedge.com/volume_calc/cylinder.htm

Have some cylindrical BS.


Anyway, I'm just voicing my opinion on your plan-of-attack once you get the car. For the car itself, think about a Subaru 2.5 RS. Maybe a '99, it shouldn't set you back too much, you have the AWD, and the boxer/flat-4 to work with, which responds finely to turbocharging/forced induction if need be. That, and they look sexy enough without a body kit. :D
 
Bahbo
This statement is true in Gran Turismo, but not in real life. A properly built FWD car can be just as fast or faster then a RWD or AWD vehicle. No, i'm not saying that FWD can always be faster, obviously RWD and AWD have advantages as far as traction and weight balance/transfer go. What i'm saying is FWD cars CAN be great high performance machines. For instance Canada's fastest FWD runs mid 8's in the quarter mile all day.
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I knew I would catch a little flack when making my Gran Turismo comparison. I didn't mean to step on the FWD toes out there. Yes, I agree that there are many, and I do stress, many awesome FWD tuner cars, or even race cars, on our streets today. My personal preferrence is RWD. That's all I was saying. There are great suspension packages to help with FWD traction control. But, all they do is help. They can't eliminate the innate design of the FWD car, understeer.
 
JParker
In regards to car choice, one thing you'll recall from GT is FWD cars don't make good high performance machines. I saw an awesome Nissan 240SX in a mag. It's RWD cheap and would make a great starter car. The RX's with the rotary motor are a handfull to modify. A 300 ZX would be a great choice as well. I don't know what's wrong with me I keep talking about Nissan's and I'm a Toyota man. But all Toyos really ever had is the Supra and the MR2. Both EXELLENT choices if I might say. I would initially want to get some real muscle but everybody has Mustangs and Camaros. My hot rod back in the day was an '82 Z-28. I'm also looking around for a nice tuner car. My Toyo 4WD will be paid for soon. I too am having a hard time narrowing it down. 1st choice is a Supra but you wouldn't believe what those are still going for nearly a decade later.

Also, don't just let the guys at the shop do the work for you. Get in there and learn all you can about it. Because you will be tuning and tweaking this new found hobby on a regular basis.
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Not that I'm a big Toyota guy. But what about the AE-86 platform? What about the early 2nd Gen Celicas? or the 3rd gen Celica? It wasn't until the mid 90's that the Celica became a FWD platform.

While only the 2nd gen is easy on the eyes, the RWD Celica's could be made to really perform.

I still stand by my advice to trade the current Honda, on a car that is more amenable to modification.
And if you plan to build a viable show car, you need to have a second car to drive while the "trailer queen" is in the shop, or being built on. Else, you will be doing a lot of walking.
 
Gil
Not that I'm a big Toyota guy. But what about the AE-86 platform? What about the early 2nd Gen Celicas? or the 3rd gen Celica? It wasn't until the mid 90's that the Celica became a FWD platform.

While only the 2nd gen is easy on the eyes, the RWD Celica's could be made to really perform.

I still stand by my advice to trade the current Honda, on a car that is more amenable to modification.
And if you plan to build a viable show car, you need to have a second car to drive while the "trailer queen" is in the shop, or being built on. Else, you will be doing a lot of walking.
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I've seen one AE86 in the streets.. Aren'y they rare or is it just my area... BTW going into Toyota... How about those MR-2s? (Not the newest ones the ones before em) I think they look the part.. And come with more than enough power... (Don't know much else than that though)

Those Celicas are the ones with pop up headlights? I think they look good...
 
2nd gen Celicas have normal style head lights, 3rd Gen have pop ups. 22R found in the 3rd Gens is a torquey ass motor, that from what I've heard can support a fair amount of Turbo boost.

Supra's can be made very quick, and the Mk3's are not too hard to find, though finding the turbo model is a bit harder. MkIV are much harder to find, and the TT model is well, gonna cost alot to say the least, but will be quite fast.

Corolla wise, the AE86 is all right. Its in no way fast though, despite what Intial D would lead you to believe. Getting over 200 HP is a bit of work. Fairly easy engine swaps for it include the 4A-GZE (Supercharged 1.6Liter, 145 HP) and the 4A-GE 20V (NA 1.6L, 160/165 HP depending on version). However, this car is quite hard to get, thanks to drifting and Initial D.

MR2 is a great option. The MkII models, which had the Turbo model, boast 200 HP stock, and can be easily made to produce 250HP with Ecu and boost management. They are a bit heavy for my taste, 2800 lbs or so. Avoid the naturally aspirated 2.2L engine though, its good 145 HP only, and is from a Camry. NA MR2 MkIIs are not fast really. The MR2 Spyder is quite nice I think, despite most people saying its not a real MR2. It is, more so than the MkII ones. Engine swap for it is the 2ZZ-GE (NA 1.8L, 180 HP) from the Celica GT-S. Or you can supercharge its 1ZZ-FE engine. The Mk1 MR2 gets its own paragraph from me :p

I own an MkI MR2 with an engine swap, full suspension, intake, exhaust, ECU, and more. I am estimating 190 HP at the flywheel, that is with the 4A-GE 20V Silvertop, which was good at stock for 160 HP. The orginal 4A-GE 16V engine was good for 120 HP or so stock. The car is quite light at around 2400 lbs or less stock. Mine is at 2200 lbs currently, with AC and the steel bumpers removed. In regard to what you can find stock, there is the superchraged MkI MR2, with 145 HP from the 4A-GZE. Finding parts is not too hard, as the drivetrain is basically that of the FWD Corolla GT-S.

You can pick up an MkI MR2 for 2 grand if you look around. That would likely be an NA model. It would likely need some work. Great place to learn while keeping a practical daily driver, your Civic. I've spent some 6 grand on my car so far, and I do ALL of my own work. I have an engine hoist in my garage, and a crap load of other tools. I don't even want to think about what all the work would have cost if a shop did it.

In regard to your Civic, LEAVE IT ALONE. No one wants to see another "Modified" Civic. Make it your daily driver while you learn to work on your project car. Project cars TAKE TIME, LOTS OF IT. Money depends on the extent of your work. You feel much better about your car when you do the work, rather than Jow Blow buying crap off the wall and having someone bolt it on for him. Guys like that don't even know what part that Eibach sticker goes with on their car.

Go and then SHOW is what I say. Once you have the car setup and running good with mods, then clean it up. The last thing you want is you fancy paint job ruined when you blow up the engine or something. Or a ruined air dam when your suspension isn't setup right.

So my advice summed up:

-Leave the Civic ALONE. It will not seem different to ANYONE, no matter what you do.
-Get a project car you can let set and not run at times.
-Do your OWN work.
-Learn about various brands. It helps you to understand what options can be.

My recommendations for RWD cars that will be good to work on a fun to drive
Toyota MR2, any year, excluding the NA MkII models.
Toyota Corolla GT-S, Early 80's model ( DO NOT CONFUSE WITH SR5, which also was RWD)
Mazda Miata, any year.
Nissan 240SX (KA24DE, not KA24SE powered)
Toyota Supra
Toyota Celica

FWD cars -
Toyota Corolla GT-S, late 80's Model (Again, avoid SR-5)
Geo Prizm GSi (Same powerplant as a Corolla GT-S)
Honda Civic Si
Toyota Celica GT-S (Late 80's, Early 90's models, GT-S has the best engine for FF Celicas)
Acura Integra GS-R or Type R

AWD cars-
Subaru Impreza 2.5RS or WRX
Subaru Legacy GT
Toyota Celica All-Trac (Same engine in the Turbo MR2)

And last note. Do NOT BECOME a ricer. You sound like one right now, with talking about "respect" for driving a stick and wanting the BOV sound on you car more than the performance of a turbo.
 
Azuremen, since you seem to be GTPs resident Toyota expert, can I ask a question?

I was having an argument with my mate at school that with quite a lot of effort you could get a 3S-GTE out of a Celica GT4 or 2nd gen MR2 into a AE86 and repower it that way. Is that possible? Or is it such a swap too time and money consuming to be worth the effort?

Thanks
 
the MR2 looked too expensive, used for around 15k-25k, but i like the 240sx, how much HP do those have? Under 10grand and v4, thats kind of bag, baby.
 
sicbeing
the MR2 looked too expensive, used for around 15k-25k, but i like the 240sx, how much HP do those have? Under 10grand and v4, thats kind of bag, baby.
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A good place to find general pricing information is www.kbb.com. Kelley Blue Book's website. A quick search for a '96 240SX SE prices it around $4000. Azureman made some very good points. Especially about keeping your Civic as an everyday driver. I however understand where you are originally coming from. You know you could do a few things to the Civic that would make you feel better about the car without dumping a ton in it and still save up to buy your project car. Cheap horsepower- performance plugs/wires, K&N cone system, exhaust (please not the window rattler) just something to help open it up, wheels (something that looks like they belong on the car) not 4" past the fenders, and you were talking about scratches and dents so get some paint, you don't have to go custom, just some fresh paint. All in all if your conservative and shop around your only talking about $2500 to $3000. And you would feel much better about the Civic. And the only thing that would take your car away for any amount of time would be the paint.
You can make your everyday car look good, get a little better performance without going all out.
 
Well thanks for the info. I never intended on having a custom paint job done on my car, dunnno where u got that from, i was thinking just straight blue. I probably will end up selling my civic and getting a loan for a new-used car.

But could you answer mt quesiton about the 240sx? what are its specs? or where can i find them?
 
sicbeing
Well thanks for the info. I never intended on having a custom paint job done on my car, dunnno where u got that from, i was thinking just straight blue. I probably will end up selling my civic and getting a loan for a new-used car.

But could you answer mt quesiton about the 240sx? what are its specs? or where can i find them?
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My point about the paint is that you could easily spend $3-4000 or simply a cheap $1000-$1500. A quick google for 240SX found this good 240SX club site http://www.nissan-240sx.net/
If the Civic's paid for keep it. The payment on a $4000 car would be nothing. If you break $10000, then yea, you would want a down payment by selling your car. You'll need something to get back and forth to work in while the project car is being worked on. That's why I suggested cars like the Supra, and 300ZX or the likes. They are already high performance vehicles. All they would need is some easily bolted on horsepower, and if you desire, ground effects and custom paint. By custom paint, I don't mean graphics, just a well done paint job in a custom color or add a little radius or something.

By the way, you'll see what I'm talking about at the 240 site. They really customize well.

Edit: sorry the link above is pretty lame. I looked a little closer after this post and it appears to be a site in progress. But you get the idea. There are a lot of specific car related club sites if you do a google search on a particular model
 
Well I read on a different google'd site that a 1994 or so has maybe 140hp at around 5600. That isnt bad. I wont be able to keep two cars at once, if anything the nissan would be my mod car and my drive around car.

What simple mods -should- i do to the nissan, anything ud recommend?

-edit-

If i do anything to it, if it had a bad paint job or bad window tint job id take care of those myself. I see on a page that this one 240sx is convertable, are most of them convertables?
 
If it's going to be your regular driver, you're not going to want to tear into the motor or tranny too deep. Like I said before I would first look into the mechanical end of things first. Mostly bolt on. Even with that you can do a lot. But since your not going to get into the internals of the engine you don't want to bolt on too much because the old engine most likely couldn't take it and would most likely blow. Strap on a small turbo, a good permance filter system like K&N, plugs/wires, you may be able to do a little fuel injector upgrade, complete exhaust from the header to the tip, alloy pulley's decrease inertial drag and will give the engine better spinup, plus all the prettying up under the hood. Performance clutch, or hell, you could get an aftermarket performance transmission and the swap could be performed while at work. With suspension the sky's the limit. It can be done in stages and not interfere with daily driving. Then I would get into wheels, and exterior, which has a lot of options. Carbon fiber hoods, fiberglass or carbon fenders and trunk lids. One good piece of advise is to look at wheels and fenders at the same time. If you buy wheels that stick out past your fenders or fenders that stick out past your wheels your killing your aerodynamics, so look at these together. And rear spoiler; if you don't want to be labeled a ricer don't go with the big wing, various body kit suppliers have nice tasteful spoilers. Those fat a** wings in my opinion is what really label those guys.
 
sicbeing
I see on a page that this one 240sx is convertable, are most of them convertables?
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There pretty much like any other car that had a convertable option. Some are, most aren't. The convertable adds a lot of weight however. The SE model had a little more HP and stiffer suspension.
 
would summitracing.com be a good palce to start looking for parts?

What do I need for a lowering suspension kit? just coil overs? ive heard things but im not sure.
 
sicbeing
would summitracing.com be a good palce to start looking for parts?

What do I need for a lowering suspension kit? just coil overs? ive heard things but im not sure.
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Sure, summitracing is a good source. There should be a branch in your local major city. But it would be a site to look around on. Back in the day I bought a lot of parts for my Z-28 at Summit in Birmingham Alabama. But like I suggested before, you will definately want to sit down with someone face to face and tell them what you want to do and get them to show what they have available. In regards to lowering your car, be very careful. There are a ton of kits out there and some are crap. One good example is you've seen a lot of lowered cars that have that bounce to them. Those are cheap nockoff lowering kits. You will want to really do a lot of research on lowering kits and a good source for research would be some of those Club Sites. If you're interested in the same type of car that they have a website devoted to they could better advise you which brand. But to answer your question, there are many parts in a kit to do it right. When lowering you need stiffer springs, often steering components will need replaced, coil overs are also present, sway bars, etc. A "good" kit will come with all you need. If you're thinking in the direction I mentioned before of a little at a time. Find your preferred brand of a good kit and see if the individual parts are available separately in one of those "face to face" sit downs, most likely, yes.
 
I always thought that bouncing effect was just part of any suspension lowering ud see on the streets, i figured its because the absorbers sucked or something. I would tlower it to the point where i can to go at an angle over speed bumps and **** i dont think though.

If i bought this car i prolly wouldnt have huge plans for it like i did for my civic. Like u suggested, id prolly just put a small turbo on it, lower it, exhaust / intake, etc.

I'd also like to give it a new paint job, tint, lights (bulbs), a new steering wheel, new speedometer, pedals/shift knob, and maybe customize the inside, and if I ever felt like it, a body kit.
 
sicbeing
I always thought that bouncing effect was just part of any suspension lowering ud see on the streets, i figured its because the absorbers sucked or something. I would tlower it to the point where i can to go at an angle over speed bumps and **** i dont think though.

If i bought this car i prolly wouldnt have huge plans for it like i did for my civic. Like u suggested, id prolly just put a small turbo on it, lower it, exhaust / intake, etc.

I'd also like to give it a new paint job, tint, lights (bulbs), a new steering wheel, new speedometer, pedals/shift knob, and maybe customize the inside, and if I ever felt like it, a body kit.
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I here you man. With those few engine bolt ons you could probably push 200+, and with the right body kit make it look really good. If you're not really going to push the HP mods like you said, you could go for a medium lowering and suspension upgrade, which would not require to much parts replacement. White face gauges, carbon fiber interior trim, aluminum pedals. Sounds like an awesome ride.
 
240sx2.bmp

240sx1.bmp


👍

Since i cant draw or photoshop or find a pic of what i might want it to look like, heres a need for speed screenshot or two :sly:
 
200 HP outta a KA24DE would require more than intake, exhaust, and ECU. Maybe if you have a small turbo on there. Which those engines support quite well.

Make sure when you do the exhuast, you do the full thing, not just the back half. Too often I see guys with a good size back half, so it looks good, but they still have their restrictive stock piping behind the cat and flex pipe.

For wheels, stay with like 16 inch wheels. A good place I've found is www.edgeracing.com They will sell bundled wheel/tire packages, and can get a certain tire if you request it. Chrome wheels are crap for performance; they weigh a TON. Also, make sure you don't get really wide tires. I doubt you will you need a wheel wider than 7 inches ever for this car. I'm getting 15x6.5 wheelsThats another thing. Do not get CRAPPY tires. People like me, that recognize performance tires versus high life crap tires, laugh. High milage, low performance tires make tons of noise and just suck. I recommend Falken tires, either their ultra sporty Azenis, or all season performance tires, the Ziex.

For suspension, DO NOT DO AN EXTREME LOWER. You will only make the car's performance WORSE. For a basic setup, I would recommend Intrax springs for a 1.5 inch or so drop (not sure what they do for the 240SX) with KYB GR2 Struts. It cost him about 500 dollars. They work good, thats the setup my friend has on his FWD Corolla GT-S. My MR2 runs Ground Control coilovers with Tokico Illumina 5-way Adjustable struts. Thats more like a grand or so. Sway bars are also needed for good handling. I strongly recommend with a RWD car you get a STIFFER front sway bar. This will keep you from getting the cars ASS out and you from spinning out. Sure, drifting is cool, but not when you don't want to.

When you do want to drift, get a GOOD Limited slip differential. You can drift with out it, but its a pain in the ass. A GOOD LSD will run 1 grand or so, not installed. I don't have one yet, so I can't make a good recommendation.

I still STRONGLY recommend keeping a daily driver. You just never know what could happen when doing something to your car. Makes life much easier if you can leave the car on jack stands for a week everynow and then, rather than rushing stuff cause you don't have enough time.

BTW, Revheadz, th 3S-GTE can fit in the AE86. I just don't recommend it. Quite a pain in the ass from what I've heard. The guy I know that swapped a 4A-GZE into his AE86 said it required some moving of stuff to fit that engine in the bay, so I can only imagine what would have to be done to put the 3S-GTE in there. The engine swaps I mentioned where direct swaps that only require minor fabrication. For example, the coolant hoses and housing need to be moved when swapping in the 20Valve into my MR2. You can shoehorn some crazy stuff into cars with a transaxle as well, since the legnth of the engine is not as much of an issue. So you can get a 3S-GTE to fit in a Tercel or MR2, but you still have to cut and hammer some crap out of the bay ;)
 
when it all happens ill come back to this thread and gather up all the details
i dont have the money right now and i dont have the memory to remember these specifics
 
Azuremen
200 HP outta a KA24DE would require more than intake, exhaust, and ECU. Maybe if you have a small turbo on there. Which those engines support quite well.

Make sure when you do the exhuast, you do the full thing, not just the back half. Too often I see guys with a good size back half, so it looks good, but they still have their restrictive stock piping behind the cat and flex pipe.

For wheels, stay with like 16 inch wheels. A good place I've found is www.edgeracing.com They will sell bundled wheel/tire packages, and can get a certain tire if you request it. Chrome wheels are crap for performance; they weigh a TON. Also, make sure you don't get really wide tires. I doubt you will you need a wheel wider than 7 inches ever for this car. I'm getting 15x6.5 wheelsThats another thing. Do not get CRAPPY tires. People like me, that recognize performance tires versus high life crap tires, laugh. High milage, low performance tires make tons of noise and just suck. I recommend Falken tires, either their ultra sporty Azenis, or all season performance tires, the Ziex.

For suspension, DO NOT DO AN EXTREME LOWER. You will only make the car's performance WORSE. For a basic setup, I would recommend Intrax springs for a 1.5 inch or so drop (not sure what they do for the 240SX) with KYB GR2 Struts. It cost him about 500 dollars. They work good, thats the setup my friend has on his FWD Corolla GT-S. My MR2 runs Ground Control coilovers with Tokico Illumina 5-way Adjustable struts. Thats more like a grand or so. Sway bars are also needed for good handling. I strongly recommend with a RWD car you get a STIFFER front sway bar. This will keep you from getting the cars ASS out and you from spinning out. Sure, drifting is cool, but not when you don't want to.

When you do want to drift, get a GOOD Limited slip differential. You can drift with out it, but its a pain in the ass. A GOOD LSD will run 1 grand or so, not installed. I don't have one yet, so I can't make a good recommendation.

I still STRONGLY recommend keeping a daily driver. You just never know what could happen when doing something to your car. Makes life much easier if you can leave the car on jack stands for a week everynow and then, rather than rushing stuff cause you don't have enough time.

BTW, Revheadz, th 3S-GTE can fit in the AE86. I just don't recommend it. Quite a pain in the ass from what I've heard. The guy I know that swapped a 4A-GZE into his AE86 said it required some moving of stuff to fit that engine in the bay, so I can only imagine what would have to be done to put the 3S-GTE in there. The engine swaps I mentioned where direct swaps that only require minor fabrication. For example, the coolant hoses and housing need to be moved when swapping in the 20Valve into my MR2. You can shoehorn some crazy stuff into cars with a transaxle as well, since the legnth of the engine is not as much of an issue. So you can get a 3S-GTE to fit in a Tercel or MR2, but you still have to cut and hammer some crap out of the bay ;)
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These are all awsome things to know, but you also have to remember that I'm not exactly bringing this thing to any tracks (mostly because i dont know of any in my area...) I will probably focus on the small performance up to the small turbo, and then the exterior. If down the road I felt like learning how to drift and race id buy the LSD, sway bars, etc.
 
sicbeing
These are all awsome things to know, but you also have to remember that I'm not exactly bringing this thing to any tracks (mostly because i dont know of any in my area...) I will probably focus on the small performance up to the small turbo, and then the exterior. If down the road I felt like learning how to drift and race id buy the LSD, sway bars, etc.
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No doubt man. Keep it simple. You're wanting a nice looking ride, with above average performance, if I've been following you right. I'd be interested to know which direction you went on car purchase when you take the plunge. I'll be around the boards I'm sure. So PM me. Send me some pics.
 
thanks JParker, youve been a huge help and influence. This purchase should happen within the next few months. I will definatly post pics and details. I will try and find one within my company, but if not i'll search eslewhere.

Yea, you're correct, a nice looking ride with above average performance. Not so much what azuremen was talking about (at least not anytime soon after the car purchase) but if possible i might consider those things.

On a side note, how can i figure out if there are any race tracks in my area?
 
Run searchers for the SCCA, that will find autocross events for you. The BMWCCA does a high performance driving school in my area, and opens the road course once a month. Take note it costs 140 Dollars A DAY to run there, and thats not timed or anything. Then again, insurance is a PITA for those things.

I'm in the Spokane, WA area, and I found out about events here by searching all over. Ask around at car shops, talk to people, search the web. Autocross is a great way to learn more control over the car in a fairly safe enviroment. Most cities have some sort of LEGAL drag racing strip they open once a week or so.

A car I think I forgot to mention in the FWD department was the Nissan Sentra SE-R (B13) and the 200SX SE-R. Both have the SR20DE powerplant and are quite good peformers. A cousin to them is the Nissan NX2000, FWD, and also SR20DE powered. Has larger disc brakes than the Sentra SE-R's, and so on.
 

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