Help me improve

  • Thread starter domasijus
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If I were you, I’d do 2 things. Number one I would find a book like Alain Prost competition driving. I would then drive n100 or n200 with sports hard rear wheel drive. It seems to me by watching a bit you are just trying to go fast with no concept in mind.
Find a book you like on real race driving. Use slow cars and you will be amazed what you learn. You are kind of trying to start at too advanced a level. The slow cars with crummy tires teach you all about balancing the car.
I’m no ‘alien’. For sure but what helps is a concept to use instead of just trying to go fast with no study.
You need to have a concept there will be no quick fix. Plus that’s car is hard to drive.
Step back. Study. Practice on easy cars. Stick to your favorite track and practice practice practice.
Take a break for a bit. Read a bit. Freshen your mind.
Good luck hope you stick with it!
 
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....
Anyways let me dicect the corner

So on entry you want to be braking as hard as you can, but to do so affectively you have to smoothly apply it even if your only progressing the brake a for a split second this allows the weight transfer of the car the energy of the brakes and the tyres to grip
I often find braking at 90% is better than a 100% cos you have more feel and the car isn’t relying on the abs as much
Once steering is added you have to ease off the brake use the brake to pull you right towards the apex of the corner
Most of your advice is good, but I would caution people against following the highlighted bit.

It’s basically standard practice in racing that your initial braking input should be as hard and heavy as possible. This is of course speed dependent, with lower speeds sometimes requiring a more gentle and/or subtle input. However, for heavy braking from high speed, that initial input should be as aggressive as possible.

The idea behind this is that the more aggressive you are with the input, the more aggressive the weight transfer to the front is. More weight over the front gives you more stopping power for the initial split seconds of the braking zone.

This is even more important in cars with high downforce. Downforce, and therefor grip, diminish as speed is reduced. This means that the majority of grip available for stopping the car exists in the first split seconds of the braking zone, which means you want to use as much braking force as possible in these first split seconds.

The initial input should be maximum, and then progressively reduced. Even if this means using 100% braking force for even less than .5 of a second and then progressively reducing it, you’ll find you are able to brake later into corners.

In the playlist I linked up above, watch part 1, “Initial Braking Input.” Everything he explains there is basically standard practice in a racecar.
 
Most of your advice is good, but I would caution people against following the highlighted bit.

It’s basically standard practice in racing that your initial braking input should be as hard and heavy as possible. This is of course speed dependent, with lower speeds sometimes requiring a more gentle and/or subtle input. However, for heavy braking from high speed, that initial input should be as aggressive as possible.

The idea behind this is that the more aggressive you are with the input, the more aggressive the weight transfer to the front is. More weight over the front gives you more stopping power for the initial split seconds of the braking zone.

This is even more important in cars with high downforce. Downforce, and therefor grip, diminish as speed is reduced. This means that the majority of grip available for stopping the car exists in the first split seconds of the braking zone, which means you want to use as much braking force as possible in these first split seconds.

The initial input should be maximum, and then progressively reduced. Even if this means using 100% braking force for even less than .5 of a second and then progressively reducing it, you’ll find you are able to brake later into corners.

In the playlist I linked up above, watch part 1, “Initial Braking Input.” Everything he explains there is basically standard practice in a racecar.
In real life I agree aha
In this game for me I have better response on it when I manage my braking right from the start than just plant the pedal
Do you use a wheel or a controller
Cos maybe controller it isn’t as much as an affect cos you can’t be as precise I guess
On the wheel I definitely think the progression initially like it’s only for a split second but it would show a curve in the telemetry sorta thing
It just helps stop the abs ruining my peak braking
If you hear the tyres squeal with abs the braking is being compromised I feel or you can be as in control
 
Things that help me with mine which may help you
Let’s say that the amount of energy you put through the car is like 100%

For example to accelerate 100% throttle you cannot be steering as this would cause a loss of grip
To steer you have to remove throttle input to allow for steering
So if I want to steer 10% I can only put 90% throttle
Same with braking if you steer while braking you cannot use the full brake force right, that sort of mentality helps me with how I decide to drive the cars and how I approach everything

Anyways let me dicect the corner

So on entry you want to be braking as hard as you can, but to do so affectively you have to smoothly apply it even if your only progressing the brake a for a split second this allows the weight transfer of the car the energy of the brakes and the tyres to grip
I often find braking at 90% is better than a 100% cos you have more feel and the car isn’t relying on the abs as much
Once steering is added you have to ease off the brake use the brake to pull you right towards the apex of the corner

Once you have slowed acceleration must be a constant progression
So once you’ve got on it try not to take it off, this ruins momentum and adds unnecessary weight transfer to a much simpler task
To aid traction open the steering as you apply more power


There is lots of things to teach I’m just not very good at explaining aha But I tried
Thanks, I really appreciate your help, very useful information.
If I were you, I’d do 2 things. Number one I would find a book like Alain Prost competition driving. I would then drive n100 or n200 with sports hard rear wheel drive. It seems to me by watching a bit you are just trying to go fast with no concept in mind.
Find a book you like on real race driving. Use slow cars and you will be amazed what you learn. You are kind of trying to start at too advanced a level. The slow cars with crummy tires teach you all about balancing the car.
I’m no ‘alien’. For sure but what helps is a concept to use instead of just trying to go fast with no study.
You need to have a concept there will be no quick fix. Plus that’s car is hard to drive.
Step back. Study. Practice on easy cars. Stick to your favorite track and practice practice practice.
Take a break for a bit. Read a bit. Freshen your mind.
Good luck hope you stick with it!
In that video I choose my weakest tracks where I have biggest problems. When Im recording trying to push a litle bit to show you my common mistakes. And yes, to try with slower cars is a great idea. Second video is coming soon

Ok guys Im very happy of your all commentaries. I have recorded one more video. Mustang GR 3 @ Monza and Lexus RCF Emil Frey @ Lago Maggiore & Dragon Trail Seaside. More consistant, cleaner and less attacking corners. I made 10 laps practice before recording. All assists off except ABS, BOP ON. Here we go.

All observations are very very welcome ! Thanks again
 
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In real life I agree aha
In this game for me I have better response on it when I manage my braking right from the start than just plant the pedal
Do you use a wheel or a controller
Cos maybe controller it isn’t as much as an affect cos you can’t be as precise I guess
On the wheel I definitely think the progression initially like it’s only for a split second but it would show a curve in the telemetry sorta thing
It just helps stop the abs ruining my peak braking
If you hear the tyres squeal with abs the braking is being compromised I feel or you can be as in control
You may feel that’s working for you, but it goes against the comvention of how to drive a racecar fast, real life or sim. I don’t want to seem like I’m preaching to you, but go study any instructional videos or books on how to drive a modern racecar fast, and you’ll see that they all talk about maximum braking force on initial input.

Watch this


Sim or real life, it doesn’t matter, the technique still applies.

Are you using ABS on default or Weak? If you’re on the stronger setting, maybe that’s why you’re feeling the abs kicking in too much?
 
You may feel that’s working for you, but it goes against the comvention of how to drive a racecar fast, real life or sim. I don’t want to seem like I’m preaching to you, but go study any instructional videos or books on how to drive a modern racecar fast, and you’ll see that they all talk about maximum braking force on initial input.

Watch this


Sim or real life, it doesn’t matter, the technique still applies.

Are you using ABS on default or Weak? If you’re on the stronger setting, maybe that’s why you’re feeling the abs kicking in too much?


Yeah I know the best way is to slam on but the way they get there will be a tiny bit progressive I’m sure
When I’ve raced in real life I’ve always found it now consistent

100% braking is the best thing in a straight line too I agree with that, with gt I find that it just helps to be just below top limit also gives me margin especially when racing to know I can pull up faster. Also on 100% braking the car seems to be too on the limit for my preference causes too many mistakes for me
I think the abs in the game is a bit sensitive tbh so your probably right
I think mine is on default so maybe I’ll move it on to weak next time I try it cos honestly I never touched it
So I’ll give that a try
 
Ok guys Im very happy of your all commentaries. I have recorded one more video. Mustang GR 3 @ Monza and Lexus RCF Emil Frey @ Lago Maggiore & Dragon Trail Seaside. More consistant, cleaner and less attacking corners. I made 10 laps practice before recording. All assists off except ABS, BOP ON. Here we go.

All observations are very very welcome ! Thanks again

For me your steering inputs seem to have become smoother, there’s still laptime being left behind with apex’s being missed and corner entry and exit you have more road available to you in some corners, but that will come with practice.

Rumble strips are part of your race track dont be scared to use them or get as close to them as you can.

But for me your biggest lap gain to work on is your braking markers, push them back a little at least on Monza try the 50m further on from the ones you are using, you want to have just finished braking either before your turn in or just before the apex, the later skill is the hardest to learn, Trail Braking, but there is a ton of time to be gained from mastering it.
 
Ok guys Im very happy of your all commentaries. I have recorded one more video. Mustang GR 3 @ Monza and Lexus RCF Emil Frey @ Lago Maggiore & Dragon Trail Seaside. More consistant, cleaner and less attacking corners. I made 10 laps practice before recording. All assists off except ABS, BOP ON. Here we go.

All observations are very very welcome ! Thanks again

I’ll do Monza, then I need to go to bed :P

• Parabollica, 1st time - not sure if you were trying to do a proper line here or not, because it’s before the lap, but...you let off the brakes before you reached the apex. By getting fully off the brakes, you lost front end grip, which caused understeer. This caused you to have to coast for 1-2 seconds on a corner where you do NOT want to be coasting. The understeer and coasting forces you to delay your throttle application, which you then pay the price for all the way down the front straight.

Parabolica has an early apex. You want to adjust your initial braking point such that you can trail brake all the way to the apex. Keeping the weight over be front of the car though turn in helps eliminate understeer. Trail braking deep into the corner also allows you to use more of the corner to slow down, which means your initial braking can be deeper into the corner. Once you reach the apex, you want to get back in the power ASAP, but in a smooth and progressive way so as not to upset the balance of the car.

• 1st Chicken (Finnish for chicane :P) - again here, you do almost all your braking in a straight line, and are coasting from turn-in to the first apex. That’s all space that can be used to finish slowing the car down, allowing you to stay at top speed on the straight for a fraction of a second longer. Your line through the chicane is pretty decent, you monster the first curb and keep mostly clear of the second. Your initial throttle input is ok as well, but your secondary throttle input when you go from partial to full throttle is far too aggressive. You’re going full throttle at the flick of a switch, and it’s causing significant wheel spin - something that you pay for all down the next straight.

Furthermore, in the braking zone, you can be downshifting much much faster, to make much more use of the compression braking from the engine. As long as the revs arent bouncing off the limiter as you downshift, fire off those downshifts as fast and as soon as you can. Eg you were braking in 6th gear for a solid 1-2 seconds longer than you should. Because so much slowing down happens in those first initial split seconds, you can drop down to 5th roughly .5 seconds after jumping on the brakes, and you won’t hit the limiter and you won’t lock the rears.


• Varienté della Roggia (2nd chicken)
- could be faster on the downshifts, allowing deeper braking.
- again you coast from turn-in to first apex, which means you could actually be braking even later (combined with the downshifts as well)
- you hit the yellow sausage curb at the second apex, which really upsets the balance of the car, which causes you to delay your throttle application. Try to emulate your 1st chicane line in this second chicane.
- again here, your secondary throttle application is waaay to aggressive. You punch it to full throttle which causes wheelspin, which is enhanced because you have a left rear on the outside rumble strip. You definitely want to use this outside rumble strip to increase the width of the road on corner exit, but you need to be smooth and disciplined in your throttle application. Otherwise, any time you might gain by expanding the corner exit is lost due to the wheelspin.


• Lezmo 1 - without nitpicking, your braking and turn in, as well as initial throttle input is ok. Again though, you jump straight to full throttle, which causes all the weight to shift rearwards and lifts the nose. This causes understeer, which is why you ended up almost dropping it in the dirt.

• Lezmo 2 - nothing major here, but certainly some “advanced techniques” which could help here, like pitch-and-catch aggressive turn-in technique, as well as rolling higher apex speeds and using every inch of available road. These would be smaller micro gains where you could find time, whereas some of the other corners you could be gaining chunks of time.


• Varienté Ascari - same advice as before with the braking zone. Later, harder downshifts, deeper. You do a better job here of trail braking to the first apex, but you still do some coasting, which could be eliminated.
- through the 2nd and 3rd apexes, you could be going to full throttle much sooner (as long as it’s progressive). I haven’t done GT3 cars at Monza in GTS, but in both pcars and real life, in full quali trim on a rubbered in track, that 2nd apex should be taken at full throttle. In race trim (eg heavy fuel, or worn tires), that 2nd apex can require partial throttle, but in almost all conditions, you should be full throttle well before that 3rd apex. You also have a lot of useable space on your right as you exit the complex. You can use this extra space on the corner exit to carry more speed out of that 3rd apex.

• Parabolica, second time - much better job of braking deeper into the corner compared to the first time through. However, the way you get on the throttle at the exit is text book “what not to do”. You jump to full throttle, it massively upsets the balance and causes wheelspin. Wheelspin with an unbalanced car usually causes oversteer, which you got and had to correct.

The exit of Parabolica combined with the length of the front straight is the longest full throttle zone on the circuit, meaning that getting a clean exit out of the corner is one of the most important aspects of getting a good lap time around Monza (also how you set people up for overtakes into T1). The mistake you made on the exit of Parabolica, you payed for that mistake the entire way down the front straight. Remember that acceleration is an exponential function, so mistakes made in acceleration zones cost you massive amounts of lap time.



Anyways, I need to get to bed :lol: Been away for the weekend visiting my folks, tomorrow I get to go home and vid out for the most of the day :D. Btw, props for putting yourself out there like this, not many people would have the courage to be so forward in asking for criticism.
 
I’ll do Monza, then I need to go to bed :P

• Parabollica, 1st time - not sure if you were trying to do a proper line here or not, because it’s before the lap, but...you let off the brakes before you reached the apex. By getting fully off the brakes, you lost front end grip, which caused understeer. This caused you to have to coast for 1-2 seconds on a corner where you do NOT want to be coasting. The understeer and coasting forces you to delay your throttle application, which you then pay the price for all the way down the front straight.

Parabolica has an early apex. You want to adjust your initial braking point such that you can trail brake all the way to the apex. Keeping the weight over be front of the car though turn in helps eliminate understeer. Trail braking deep into the corner also allows you to use more of the corner to slow down, which means your initial braking can be deeper into the corner. Once you reach the apex, you want to get back in the power ASAP, but in a smooth and progressive way so as not to upset the balance of the car.

• 1st Chicken (Finnish for chicane :P) - again here, you do almost all your braking in a straight line, and are coasting from turn-in to the first apex. That’s all space that can be used to finish slowing the car down, allowing you to stay at top speed on the straight for a fraction of a second longer. Your line through the chicane is pretty decent, you monster the first curb and keep mostly clear of the second. Your initial throttle input is ok as well, but your secondary throttle input when you go from partial to full throttle is far too aggressive. You’re going full throttle at the flick of a switch, and it’s causing significant wheel spin - something that you pay for all down the next straight.

Furthermore, in the braking zone, you can be downshifting much much faster, to make much more use of the compression braking from the engine. As long as the revs arent bouncing off the limiter as you downshift, fire off those downshifts as fast and as soon as you can. Eg you were braking in 6th gear for a solid 1-2 seconds longer than you should. Because so much slowing down happens in those first initial split seconds, you can drop down to 5th roughly .5 seconds after jumping on the brakes, and you won’t hit the limiter and you won’t lock the rears.


• Varienté della Roggia (2nd chicken)
- could be faster on the downshifts, allowing deeper braking.
- again you coast from turn-in to first apex, which means you could actually be braking even later (combined with the downshifts as well)
- you hit the yellow sausage curb at the second apex, which really upsets the balance of the car, which causes you to delay your throttle application. Try to emulate your 1st chicane line in this second chicane.
- again here, your secondary throttle application is waaay to aggressive. You punch it to full throttle which causes wheelspin, which is enhanced because you have a left rear on the outside rumble strip. You definitely want to use this outside rumble strip to increase the width of the road on corner exit, but you need to be smooth and disciplined in your throttle application. Otherwise, any time you might gain by expanding the corner exit is lost due to the wheelspin.


• Lezmo 1 - without nitpicking, your braking and turn in, as well as initial throttle input is ok. Again though, you jump straight to full throttle, which causes all the weight to shift rearwards and lifts the nose. This causes understeer, which is why you ended up almost dropping it in the dirt.

• Lezmo 2 - nothing major here, but certainly some “advanced techniques” which could help here, like pitch-and-catch aggressive turn-in technique, as well as rolling higher apex speeds and using every inch of available road. These would be smaller micro gains where you could find time, whereas some of the other corners you could be gaining chunks of time.


• Varienté Ascari - same advice as before with the braking zone. Later, harder downshifts, deeper. You do a better job here of trail braking to the first apex, but you still do some coasting, which could be eliminated.
- through the 2nd and 3rd apexes, you could be going to full throttle much sooner (as long as it’s progressive). I haven’t done GT3 cars at Monza in GTS, but in both pcars and real life, in full quali trim on a rubbered in track, that 2nd apex should be taken at full throttle. In race trim (eg heavy fuel, or worn tires), that 2nd apex can require partial throttle, but in almost all conditions, you should be full throttle well before that 3rd apex. You also have a lot of useable space on your right as you exit the complex. You can use this extra space on the corner exit to carry more speed out of that 3rd apex.

• Parabolica, second time - much better job of braking deeper into the corner compared to the first time through. However, the way you get on the throttle at the exit is text book “what not to do”. You jump to full throttle, it massively upsets the balance and causes wheelspin. Wheelspin with an unbalanced car usually causes oversteer, which you got and had to correct.

The exit of Parabolica combined with the length of the front straight is the longest full throttle zone on the circuit, meaning that getting a clean exit out of the corner is one of the most important aspects of getting a good lap time around Monza (also how you set people up for overtakes into T1). The mistake you made on the exit of Parabolica, you payed for that mistake the entire way down the front straight. Remember that acceleration is an exponential function, so mistakes made in acceleration zones cost you massive amounts of lap time.



Anyways, I need to get to bed :lol: Been away for the weekend visiting my folks, tomorrow I get to go home and vid out for the most of the day :D. Btw, props for putting yourself out there like this, not many people would have the courage to be so forward in asking for criticism.
Outstanding commentary! Thanks for your time!
After long straights Im trying to brake as hard as possible. This was my first laps without cones so still looking for a decent braking spots. When Im realeasing pedal for trail braking most often I come in corner tooo fast. I dont know why.. Maybe its because Im downshifting too slow, will be faster on that. And understand I must use throttle more gently and progressive on exits to avoid spins or loose control. How I understand also coasting too long.
I always accept critism positive because Its only way to do not repeat mistakes. Head up, wheel in the hands! ;) Thanks again
 
Outstanding commentary! Thanks for your time!
After long straights Im trying to brake as hard as possible. This was my first laps without cones so still looking for a decent braking spots. When Im realeasing pedal for trail braking most often I come in corner tooo fast. I dont know why.. Maybe its because Im downshifting too slow, will be faster on that. And understand I must use throttle more gently and progressive on exits to avoid spins or loose control. How I understand also coasting too long.
I always accept critism positive because Its only way to do not repeat mistakes. Head up, wheel in the hands! ;) Thanks again
I forgot to write at the end. Be methodical in the changes to your driving style. Focus on one area at a time, don’t try correct every bad habit at once. Judging from that lap at Monza, I would recommend you start by focusing on clean corner exits using smooth, progressive throttle application. Especially on a circuit like Monza, this is where you will find the most gains.

Additionally, Monza may seem like an easy circuit to learn, but it’s incredibly tough to master. There’s not many corners, so each cornering event needs to be nearly perfect. On top of that, each corner at Monza is quite tricky. Chicanes are some of the hardest types of corners to learn to be really good at. Lezmo 1 & 2 are really quirky corners, and Parabolica, due to its impact on lap time, is again, not easy to get perfect.
 
I will try to do my best ! Your tips gives me motivation! Im avoiding Monza on Lobbies or Sport mode cause of T1... Sounds weird but my strongest track where I can almost all the time build up consistency is Nordschleife.....
 
This is a very good thread, I have to read all of this myself. Just a couple of my own tricks.

In the physical aspect, because I work 14 hours per day and 5 days a week I've develop a way of doing things of my own and they really make a difference.

First, I sleep more hours the night before FIA race, I go earlier to bed and dinner lighter. I wake up with more energy, so by the time I race I have more energy than usual. If the race is on Saturday, I go for a nap of 45 minutes 2 or 3 hours before official race. Super shower, super fresh (30 C degrees in Kent in these days) and I drink plenty of liquids, but stop drinking an hour before the race (self-explanatory). And I eat something really light, like a salad.
I do sport mode only when the weather is fresh, very early in the morning or late in the night. I never race if the conditions aren't good enough.

If I'm going to just do weekly race, I never get into them first. I find a fun race in the same track in the campaign and do it a couple of times to warm up (and to farm credits) STRICTLY NO CONTACT RULE

Then, I do something that I'm not very proud of, but works. I go and watch TRL_Lighting's lap in that circuit (or anyone in the top 10) and I try to integrate that into my line, I normally gain 4 seconds per lap just by doing this, because I don't have a natural understanding of the racing line. I'd love to do it myself by I don't have the time.

The physical factor might not be important (or that is what you think) if you are young, because when young we are full of energy. It makes a difference, trust me.

I hope this helps

ps:
Sounds weird but my strongest track where I can almost all the time build up consistency is Nordschleife.....

My wife did Nordschleife in 12 minutes with a Range Rover (lowered to 120 bhp, ultra pink of course), the day she took her first driving lesson, the first time she drove in a simulator. After a few attempts she is now in under 10 minutes. My point is, Nordschleife means nothing.

Nordschleife doesn't help with consistency because is too long to remember, IMO that track is about instinctive driving more than consistency. If you are doing always the same times means that you are, by default, a good driver inside your head (if that makes sense). Now go and do it with every category. N100, N200, N300... and also different layouts FF, FR, RF, MR, 4WD (stock, of course).

Warning: I used to think that if you can race at Nordschleife, you can race anywhere. This is wrong. IMO Nordschleife tests your reactions and the vehicle itself, that is all. That's why is the test track preferred by every single car maker.
 
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This is a very good thread, I have to read all of this myself. Just a couple of my own tricks.

In the physical aspect, because I work 14 hours per day and 5 days a week I've develop a way of doing things of my own and they really make a difference.

First, I sleep more hours the night before FIA race, I go earlier to bed and dinner lighter. I wake up with more energy, so by the time I race I have more energy than usual. If the race is on Saturday, I go for a nap of 45 minutes 2 or 3 hours before official race. Super shower, super fresh (30 C degrees in Kent in these days) and I drink plenty of liquids, but stop drinking an hour before the race (self-explanatory). And I eat something really light, like a salad.
I do sport mode only when the weather is fresh, very early in the morning or late in the night. I never race if the conditions aren't good enough.

If I'm going to just do weekly race, I never get into them first. I find a fun race in the same track in the campaign and do it a couple of times to warm up (and to farm credits) STRICTLY NO CONTACT RULE

Then, I do something that I'm not very proud of, but works. I go and watch TRL_Lighting's lap in that circuit (or anyone in the top 10) and I try to integrate that into my line, I normally gain 4 seconds per lap just by doing this, because I don't have a natural understanding of the racing line. I'd love to do it myself by I don't have the time.

The physical factor might not be important (or that is what you think) if you are young, because when young we are full of energy. It makes a difference, trust me.

I hope this helps

ps:


My wife did Nordschleife in 12 minutes with a Range Rover (lowered to 120 bhp, ultra pink of course), the day she took her first driving lesson, the first time she drove in a simulator. After a few attempts she is now in under 10 minutes. My point is, Nordschleife means nothing.

Nordschleife doesn't help with consistency because is too long to remember, IMO that track is about instinctive driving more than consistency. If you are doing always the same times means that you are, by default, a good driver inside your head (if that makes sense). Now go and do it with every category. N100, N200, N300... and also different layouts FF, FR, RF, MR, 4WD (stock, of course).

Warning: I used to think that if you can race at Nordschleife, you can race anywhere. This is wrong. IMO Nordschleife tests your reactions and the vehicle itself, that is all. That's why is the test track preferred by every single car maker.
Working with your brains gives you extra consistency and avoid mistakes. Brains have to tell your body to do like this or do not to do like this.. Its hard to explain for me especially in english but you might know what I mean. First of all you have to make a deal with your brains and then your body listens for a smooth inputs.
And... I agree with you but I dont wanna say that if you can drive very well in Norde then you can drive everywhere.. Its weird for me because in my opinion and probably most of all people opinions the hardest track in the game is Norde. The main reason why I feel comfortably there is spended the longest time there. I like Norde :)
 
The main reason why I feel comfortably there is spended the longest time there. I like Norde :)

Don't get me wrong, the Nord is called The Green Hell for a reason, if you feel comfortable there it means that you are naturally fitted for online racing, because the Nord is about reflexes and reactions. That means you are good!:cheers:
 
Don't get me wrong, the Nord is called The Green Hell for a reason, if you feel comfortable there it means that you are naturally fitted for online racing, because the Nord is about reflexes and reactions. That means you are good!:cheers:
Thanks, mate ;) Maybe this only what I have.. Reflexes and reactions there but none other like consistency, enought skills in the rest of circuits. Trying to improve myself, people sharing personal and unvaluable tips ;)
 
Thanks, mate ;) Maybe this only what I have.. Reflexes and reactions there but none other like consistency, enought skills in the rest of circuits. Trying to improve myself, people sharing personal and unvaluable tips ;)
Consistency is not a natural skill. Consistency implies self-control and confrontation against failure; humans are not fitted with any of these skills.

Human beings get mad and leave stuff and move on to a new thing that will satisfy our brain's need for 'good stuff' {more in the brain's reward system and why you cannot trust yourself in this link}

Consistency is something that one must develop alone, is a personal skill. It comes with a friend called Resilience. Resilience and Consistency are the two hotties that you really want to get deep into.

They aren't natural, the average racer is a hot headed dude that want to put his foot down (we all start like this), that is the natural thing. Being better than that means that you are overcoming your limits day after day, so good for you mate, remember this every time you finish a lap around the Nord, again and again and again, every time you do it you get even better.

 
Nordschleife doesn't help with consistency because is too long to remember, IMO that track is about instinctive driving more than consistency. If you are doing always the same times means that you are, by default, a good driver inside your head (if that makes sense).

Warning: I used to think that if you can race at Nordschleife, you can race anywhere. This is wrong. IMO Nordschleife tests your reactions and the vehicle itself, that is all. That's why is the test track preferred by every single car maker.

Not sure I agree. Lots of people have learned every inch of the nordschleife - Many people have hundreds and hundreds of laps on it, either virtual or in the real world. It's still a race track, just a long one. If it just tests reactions, this suggests drivers don't know what corner is coming up next. You think the guys that race there can't get consistent to easily within a second a lap? As for using it to test cars, yes it's done there. But If you can't be consistent and you have to rely on reactions, then you can't test a car properly, as the data is not repeatable and therefore reliable. Vehicle testing relies on consistency.

Nords is just a circuit, you can still perfect your lines through practise.

Rally driving is more reactions. Here you really are encountering an unknown corner each time, albeit with pace notes.
 
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I think Brands Hatch is the ideal track for practising. Its short, unforgiving, fast paced, quite technical and covers a lot of areas for improving. The tracks that you practise on (Dragon Trail & Maggie) aren't very challenging except few passages such as the bus stop and a few trailbraking corners on Maggie.
 
@domasijus, something else I thought of earlier today.

I’d completely overlooked this when first going over your Monza lap, but you said you were driving with all driver aids turned off, except for ABS.

You should try that lap again, but with some TC turned on. Like I said before, corner exits is where you’ll be able to find the most time, and for that car on that track, the TCS will help you.

Everyone has their own opinion about driver aids, but just in case you’re not aware, the Gr3 and Gr4 cars in GTS are loosely based off of FIA GT3 and GT4 regulations. Those regulations allow for traction control to be used (it’s mostly because GT3 and GT4 cars are customer cars sold to amateur drivers). So it’s not at all unrealistic to use TC on the Gr3 and Gr4 cars in GTS.

Some people swear by no driver aids, personally I like to use whatever is realstic. It’s up to you, just another thing to consider.
 
@domasijus, something else I thought of earlier today.

I’d completely overlooked this when first going over your Monza lap, but you said you were driving with all driver aids turned off, except for ABS.

You should try that lap again, but with some TC turned on. Like I said before, corner exits is where you’ll be able to find the most time, and for that car on that track, the TCS will help you.

Everyone has their own opinion about driver aids, but just in case you’re not aware, the Gr3 and Gr4 cars in GTS are loosely based off of FIA GT3 and GT4 regulations. Those regulations allow for traction control to be used (it’s mostly because GT3 and GT4 cars are customer cars sold to amateur drivers). So it’s not at all unrealistic to use TC on the Gr3 and Gr4 cars in GTS.

Some people swear by no driver aids, personally I like to use whatever is realstic. It’s up to you, just another thing to consider.
Im am in no way against aids, use whatever you like. But TC in GTS works very different then real TC does.

I'd wont recomend TC, AMS, or CSA to anyone who is seriously looking to improve his driving techniques in the long run. Though it can help if your just looking to boost consistency in the short term.
 
Im am in no way against aids, use whatever you like. But TC in GTS works very different then real TC does.

I'd wont recomend TC, AMS, or CSA to anyone who is seriously looking to improve his driving techniques in the long run. Though it can help if your just looking to boost consistency in the short term.
Fair point. I haven’t had tons of time in GTS, so if it’s true the TC is really bad, then maybe forget what I said. With my experience in PC, everyone is using TCS in the GT3 and GT4 categories. There, be TC was modelled after the real TCS in those cars, so it worked well.
 
Fair point. I haven’t had tons of time in GTS, so if it’s true the TC is really bad, then maybe forget what I said. With my experience in PC, everyone is using TCS in the GT3 and GT4 categories. There, be TC was modelled after the real TCS in those cars, so it worked well.
Well it isnt necessarily bad to use TC its just that to go fast you need to have very precise and smooth inputs. TC can help a bit in achieving that but imo its always better to achieve on your own as it will greatly improve your car control if you learn to nurse that throttle on your own instead of letting the TC take care of it.

I am not sure about real TC but in games and sims i find it can hinder you a bit speedwise if you already have good control on the throttle.
 
Well it isnt necessarily bad to use TC its just that to go fast you need to have very precise and smooth inputs. TC can help a bit in achieving that but imo its always better to achieve on your own as it will greatly improve your car control if you learn to nurse that throttle on your own instead of letting the TC take care of it.

I am not sure about real TC but in games and sims i find it can hinder you a bit speedwise if you already have good control on the throttle.
Ya it all depends on which sim, and how well the TC is modelled. The TCS in real GT3 and GT4 cars is very advanced, it’s meant to make the drivers go faster. It’s not like regular TCS on a road car that is for safety. If it’s not modelled that way in GTS though, then you’re probably right, that it’s better to go with no TC.
 
TC makes the car faster not the driver. If you're trying to improve your core skills then best to learn without aids as otherwise you won't learn how to use the throttle (etc) properly. Ultimately you should be able to drive with TC on and be just on verge of activating it and it helps remove mistakes you might make whilst racing others, but for learning tracks, improving technique, and hotlapping I'd suggest going without.
 
I'd wont recomend TC, AMS, or CSA to anyone who is seriously looking to improve his driving techniques in the long run. Though it can help if your just looking to boost consistency in the short term.
Aids here can produce under-steering in some cars, and TC can slow you down in fast long corners, I reckon with the new tyre model this can be even worse (I haven't tested yet). But in a recent study by other users, they found out that assistance consumes more fuel. So, in a long race you will have higher consumption for using help.
 
Watch back your own laps but from third person view, this way you can see much better where you are placing the car on the track, and how much space isn’t being used that could be.
 
This game is all about abusing track limits and the stupid physics of the cars.

Try to learn where you can cut the corners like all "aliens" do and abuse the kerbs on every track. They would destroy your car pretty quick in real life but it’s GT so lol
 
This game is all about abusing track limits and the stupid physics of the cars.

Try to learn where you can cut the corners like all "aliens" do and abuse the kerbs on every track. They would destroy your car pretty quick in real life but it’s GT so lol

Differs to real life by one word.

Lol, just to poke the bear for sh*** and giggles, your both right. “Stupid” physics as in (at least I’ve seen and been victim of until I learned to turn them off) when was the last time you saw a orange rubber safety cone launch a 3000 lb vehicle in real life? How about getting punted at the very end of the braking zone where a tiny trophy wife that was also almost done braking sends my tank of a Veyron into warp speed the complete opposite direction of what actual physics would. My favorite however is either watching AWD cars spinning when trying to return on track after going farming or the fact that it’s almost impossible to accelerate from a dead stop without spinning while facing the correct direction but be facing the wrong direction and that thing becomes glued to the track lol. I was racing a dirty lobby at blue moon a month or so ago and I got pit maneuvered by a Xbow that spun my Raptor 5 complete rotations and when I finally started to stop my nose was 15 degrees from correct direction of travel so what happens, the truck instantly started spinning again the opposite direction and came to a complete stop facing the wrong way of course.

As for the the other statement, every possible real world telemetry/data available by actual race teams/manufactures has been used to replicate as best as possible real driving physics. But you have to remember, human programmers tell the program exact instructions on how to best express these actions to the user. Another words, no 2 people are the exact same so what might be sweet smelling to me might be sour smelling to you so everything is up to natural human interpretations and not real world law of physics.

I do greatly thank everyone involved in this thread by giving their time and willingness to help and be helped. There has been several pieces of knowledge shared that I have found to be very interesting and am hoping it helps me as I’m also in the same boat of feeling like what exactly am I missing? No matter how hard I try or how much I practice/study I simply can not get the car to give me all she’s got and I’m always 3-5 seconds off a top pace. I’ve chalked it up to not being able to translate what the car is doing virtually by sight and sound instead of “feeling” what it’s doing through the seat of my pants, but I’m hard headed and refuse to give up
 

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