- 142
- bobzombie661
after making my own pod , i realised i had too fiqure out a way too make my own buttkicker
so after a few brain farts ive got an idea đź’ˇ
this is still in its ''stone age'' form , im gona clean it up when im 100% with it
so basicaly i got a music-light modulator (device witch take a audio input too modulate a 110V AC output, used for partys too make the lights dim with the music) found that for around 10$
then after putting it together i realised that the triac thats inside might not be beef enought too run a motor ,so swichted too a 25A version of the BT136 triac .after putting major loads on the board and having it catch on fire cause the 3 pins of the triac were too close , i ended up using 14G housewire and ressoldering the triac ontop of the circuit board (no longer touching the board) and i dremeled the ''lines'' on the board too prevent another short circuit.
then i reached my next problem , the audio input has too be atleast 1.2V
so i used my old car AMP i had lying around too boost the power too way over the 1.2V minimun and now i have a enought audio output too make the modulator work
too power the amp i needed a 12V current(like a car) so a PC power supply was a no brainer
so now ive split the audio feed from my TV/PS3 using a ''Y'' RCA connector before my home theater amp so my vibrator isnt influenced by the volume
ive bolted everything in a old PC case i had lying around and i still have too make it nice a clean looking , for now iver tried the setup with lights and it works great , ive also plugged a old busted sawzall i have too it and its works A1 but the only problem is that the sawzall makes more noise than my speakers lol
tomorow im off too the electronics supply store where im gona pick up a 110V 60hz motor and im gona try putting a offset weight on it too make it vibrate
. if the offset weight insnt gona be good enought , ill make a liinkage system too create the vibrations.
compete case without the front face plate
the house outlet is where im gona connect the motor
the inside
thats the new position of the triac with heavy gauge wire and hotglue too keep it from moving
im hoping this might inspire and give ideas for the next model of ghetto buttkicker
EDIT: IT WORKS!!!
the problem i had with the steering wheel turning off was cause by the motor not being grounded
and i was able too boost the motor by changing too a 86MFD capasitor
so with this new capasitor my race pod jumps over a 1inch forward when a audio spike happens lol (im not on it when it jumps)
so too tally up the cost
audio light modulator was 12.99$
the second triac (burned the original 6.99$
the motor 1/8 hp 9.99$
capasitor 9.99$
amp was free but i found a monster
12v too 120AC powerconverter 17.99$
computer power supply 0$ (garbage picking or stuff)
total for buttkicker: 60$!!!
p.s. you have too make all the mounts somehow and do all the connections(wire ,solder . etc)
and this thing is much stronger than a normal buttkicker and is also adjustable
so after a few brain farts ive got an idea đź’ˇ
this is still in its ''stone age'' form , im gona clean it up when im 100% with it
so basicaly i got a music-light modulator (device witch take a audio input too modulate a 110V AC output, used for partys too make the lights dim with the music) found that for around 10$
then after putting it together i realised that the triac thats inside might not be beef enought too run a motor ,so swichted too a 25A version of the BT136 triac .after putting major loads on the board and having it catch on fire cause the 3 pins of the triac were too close , i ended up using 14G housewire and ressoldering the triac ontop of the circuit board (no longer touching the board) and i dremeled the ''lines'' on the board too prevent another short circuit.
then i reached my next problem , the audio input has too be atleast 1.2V
so i used my old car AMP i had lying around too boost the power too way over the 1.2V minimun and now i have a enought audio output too make the modulator work
too power the amp i needed a 12V current(like a car) so a PC power supply was a no brainer
so now ive split the audio feed from my TV/PS3 using a ''Y'' RCA connector before my home theater amp so my vibrator isnt influenced by the volume
ive bolted everything in a old PC case i had lying around and i still have too make it nice a clean looking , for now iver tried the setup with lights and it works great , ive also plugged a old busted sawzall i have too it and its works A1 but the only problem is that the sawzall makes more noise than my speakers lol
tomorow im off too the electronics supply store where im gona pick up a 110V 60hz motor and im gona try putting a offset weight on it too make it vibrate
. if the offset weight insnt gona be good enought , ill make a liinkage system too create the vibrations.
compete case without the front face plate
the house outlet is where im gona connect the motor
the inside
thats the new position of the triac with heavy gauge wire and hotglue too keep it from moving
im hoping this might inspire and give ideas for the next model of ghetto buttkicker
EDIT: IT WORKS!!!
the problem i had with the steering wheel turning off was cause by the motor not being grounded
and i was able too boost the motor by changing too a 86MFD capasitor
so with this new capasitor my race pod jumps over a 1inch forward when a audio spike happens lol (im not on it when it jumps)
so too tally up the cost
audio light modulator was 12.99$
the second triac (burned the original 6.99$
the motor 1/8 hp 9.99$
capasitor 9.99$
amp was free but i found a monster
12v too 120AC powerconverter 17.99$
computer power supply 0$ (garbage picking or stuff)
total for buttkicker: 60$!!!
p.s. you have too make all the mounts somehow and do all the connections(wire ,solder . etc)
and this thing is much stronger than a normal buttkicker and is also adjustable
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