Hood Spacers......

  • Thread starter RocZX
  • 49 comments
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Or I guess you can just drive around with the hood popped open like this on front opening cars. Nice thing is it won't fly up.

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I bet you both like cupcakes!

What if they are both cupcakes?
 
There is a high pressure zone at the base of the windscreen. If the back of the bonnet is raise you will not the the cooling effect as desired. It will happen in reverse by forcing air into the engine bay rather than let it out.
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XS
Wait, someone actually "invented" these? Then went through the trouble of producing and selling them? Then people actually bought them to intentionally ruin the body panel fit of their car?
I think they actually used washers at first. Sometime after, someone decided to make a profit on it.
 
Are you saying that some motors don't have enough clearance or are you being sarcastic?
No, some motors don't have clearance. For example, here's an H22 2.2L engine in a Honda CR-X HF (which came stock with a 1.5L)

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He's using 1.5 inch spacers in conjunction with an aftermarket hood that has a small cowl to help for motor clearance. He did this so he wouldn't have to cut his hood like this...

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It'll help with cooling down at low speeds or at a stop, but at high speeds, that high pressure zone plays all sorts of havoc with air flow. Wouldn't be surprised if propping it up too high results in flow reversion.

But this is highly dependent on the aerodynamics of the car, and how effective air flow is managed through the engine bay. Some people have tested and seen a drop in temps (and, obviously, if you have an ITB set-up with the trumpets pointing towards the rear firewall, you WILL get more air in them), some have tested and have seen a rise in temps.

This is one of those big YMMV things. For most (modern) cars, the most aerodynamic and effective solution is venting the front end of the cowl, to better pull air through the radiator. Or, if you want more cooling, start sawing away at the fake, blocked off parts of the grille.

Of course, if you've got a Mustang, which has a big old parachute of a front grille, any extra venting up top will be effective. There's no way the high pressure zone up top is worse than the one underhood, which is strong enough to cause hood flapping at high speed.
 
Well, with that one you could probably just use a vented hood. Probably a more reliable solution based on the theory you spouted, and less stupid-looking.
 
Not my theory. It's just aerodynamics.

Buying a hood spacer is cheaper than buying a new hood.

What's even cheaper is simply doing it the way any sensible person would: removing the insulation and adding washers and measuring underhood and intake air temperature till you find a hood angle that causes maximum benefit without flow reversion at highway speeds (if any angle works at all)
 
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