Hot Wheels and Matchbox Customizing Thread

  • Thread starter CodeRedR51
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I need to get groceries tomorrow and luckily Harbor Freight is just across the street.
I think I may poke around there a bit to see if there is anything of use.

I don't know how soon you will get info from your coworker(s), but I can scope it out and maybe price a few things if you like while I'm there. 👍
 
Nah, don't worry about it. I appreciate the offer, but I'm in no hurry. I just checked their store locator, and they seem to be just about 15 minutes or so out. 👍

Edit: Wow, you guys aren't kidding. Look at the prices!
 
Speaking of detail, i have a Dairy Delivery im working on and i plan to add details to it. I need to know but is it best to detail it, then clearcoat or vice versa?:confused:
 
I'm thinking of clear coating my cars before I do a second colour on it. This way, I can erase the bleeds without erasing the base coat.
 
Speaking of detail, i have a Dairy Delivery im working on and i plan to add details to it. I need to know but is it best to detail it, then clearcoat or vice versa?:confused:

Either way, doesn't matter. I got my first Falcon Race Car all painted up but have set it aside until I can do my decals. I'll detail it after I apply the decals then clear coat it.
 
Well, I WAS planning to show you guys the very first car in the White series, but I was hit with a surprise right at the end....

Anything you print on decal paper isn't 100% opaque. I was going to put yellow stripes on a black surface and that means you won't see a thing. With no yellow spray paint at hand, I'm stuck hand-painting the stripe on. So I bust out my Tamiya Enamel. That should do the trick! Not! The paint inside is runny as if it's been sitting for too long. I try shaking up the bottle, and I still got pigment settled at the bottom.
 
Well, I WAS planning to show you guys the very first car in the White series, but I was hit with a surprise right at the end....

Anything you print on decal paper isn't 100% opaque. I was going to put yellow stripes on a black surface and that means you won't see a thing. With no yellow spray paint at hand, I'm stuck hand-painting the stripe on. So I bust out my Tamiya Enamel. That should do the trick! Not! The paint inside is runny as if it's been sitting for too long. I try shaking up the bottle, and I still got pigment settled at the bottom.

If you want opaque elements, you need white decal paper, not clear.
 
Here's the first of two cars I am working on. The other one I might have to redo the base, so may have to purchase another car to do that.

BEFORE
DSCN5329_zpsb26d3838.jpg


AFTER
DSCN5334_zpsa45afe17.jpg

DSCN5337_zps9f120c59.jpg
DSCN5336_zps1d60ce43.jpg

DSCN5338_zpsf30d88de.jpg

DSCN5335_zps62e2dcad.jpg
 
Did you detail the taillights? That is ass-kicking. I almost wish you kept the side stripes, but I can't be certain which way I might have liked better. How about amber lamps in the grille? Would that be too much?
 
Real cars are white (or clear lights) so that's the way I went. I may paint the chrome running board things on the sides because I didn't realize they were so pitted.

Yeah, did the taillights. You should see the ones I did on the other car. Took me foreverrrrrr.
 
Ah, I didn't realize the real car had clear lights in the grille. It looks good. 👍 Taillight may have been a pain, but it paid off eh? Looks sweet. 👍
 
Actually the taillights weren't that hard. Just a fresh dab of "Stop Light Red" into each spot with a toothpick and the paint filled them up nicely. 👍 The hard part is getting the paint in there without touching the sides.
 
Crunk
If you want opaque elements, you need white decal paper, not clear.

See the thing is I'm printing off the stripe pattern that has one thick stripe with two thinner stripes beside it. I could print each stripe out individually but that's even more tedious. Guess that means I can't go with black tops then. I don't want to go red so I'm going to need to get gold paint.
 
Then if you're gonna paint the stripes, clear the car first. If you apply masking tape to bare paint, it will peel off.
 
Ah, well, with spray paint yes, it should be way more resistant as it is designed as a single stage finish.
 
You get your cars painted professionally, that would make me think that they are MORE resistant to chipping/peeling than standard rattle can spray. That's automotive based paint, no?
 
Yes but most of the time the paint is a two-stager, that's why I was telling AOS that if he wanted to mask the car he'd have to clear it first. Most of the paint we use, in it's first stage, will peel right away if you put tape over it. However, after clearcoating it, it's incredibly resistant.

What we've done when we need to maska car to add another color or tampos afterwards, is put a thin layer of clear, enough to protect the paint from peeling, then add masking/tampos/whatever, then final-clear-coat it for a really durable and deep finish.
 
Already thought of doing all that. The stripe is enamel and some crummy acrylic.... Over car paint. I fear nothing. I did clear coat the white before the black though. Only Jason was a doubter. :P
 
Hey if you want a smooth final finish, everything must be done with clear coating as the very last step. But what do I know. :confused:
 
^ Gee. If only I had a shrink ray so I could do just that.


I took it off a Maisto, and I can't be bothered to look for another set of wheels that look like that. So I'll live with what I can get.
 
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