How Correctly set up Logitech g27 ?

HawkeTrainer

HawkeTrainer

199
I just got a g27 :drool: But now I'm wondering what the proper steps are for setting it up?

Mainly,Do I plug it in to the wall outlet First or do I plug It into the the Ps3? :dunce:

Any other info I should know would also be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance :dopey:
 
Set up the wheel on your stand / rig / coffee table (lol, how I raced for awhile). Plug the power cord into the wall outlet and USB into the PS3 (while off). Turn ON the PS3 and let the wheel calibrate (keep it clear from the couch or your legs). Choose to start GT5 disc / let the wheel further calibrate. Go to in game "options" (on main screen) and set your force feedback to a setting you like (before the most recent update I liked 5 or 6, now I use 8 or 9) and also set the "assisted steering" - I like it ON. It works like power steering (you can make quick turns / counter steering in a fluid movement).

That should be the basics on your new G27 - you can further "map" the 6 wheel buttons to functions that you like (wipers, horn, flash to pass) but, out of the box it'll drive just fine w/o any mapping. Have fun!
 
The "assisted steering" will detract from the realism, also you can turn the FFB on the G27 right up to 10, as it isn't that heavy anyway. And it doesn't really matter whether you plug the power in first, the wheel auto-calibrates when it's plugged in regardless. Usually I'll start GT5 and while it's loading I'll set up my cockpit and plug everything in.
 
Well I been driving with the g27,seems I'm getting better at grip driving~But now I can't drift!

Im no pro but with The ds3 I can atleast run the track,But I haven't been able to get a single corner with the g27 :(

Even if I get threw the corner the snapback seems uncontrollable, No matter what I try nothing seems to work~lots of countersteer, Minimum countersteer,working the throttle,braking Ect~

Is it just practice? or do I need to do something special to my car to make it exit a drift without spining out :crazy:
 
HawkeTrainer
Well I been driving with the g27,seems I'm getting better at grip driving~But now I can't drift!

Im no pro but with The ds3 I can atleast run the track,But I haven't been able to get a single corner with the g27 :(

Even if I get threw the corner the snapback seems uncontrollable, No matter what I try nothing seems to work~lots of countersteer, Minimum countersteer,working the throttle,braking Ect~

Is it just practice? or do I need to do something special to my car to make it exit a drift without spining out :crazy:
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Try it with stock roadcars first (obviously cars that are going to be easy to drive sideways), and just practice, practice, practice. You will probably find it easier once you sort out your throttle control, rather than worrying so much about steering.
 
I've been told that you should plug it into the ps3, then into outlet then turn on ps3. I drove without doing this for a long time and then I was learning how to drift with it and talked to a dude that told me that it does not calibrate right unless you plug in first then power on ps3. I knew how it felt before doing this and was used to it and then I tried what was suggested and it did seem way better and I was drifting instantly better too AND my roommate thought it felt better as well even with very little time playing it with just plugging it in after gt5 has started.

My ritual. I slide my custom built aluminum race rig in front of the big screen, plug in the usb to ps3, then plug in to the outlet and then fire up the ps3, THEN after I start the game and im pulling out of the pit in auto drive or if Im in a race waiting for countdown I step on all pedals once to full amount then release. This calibrates the pedals. If you don't calibrate the pedals then the first time you use the brake pedal and say you only push it half way down from that point on half pedal is now FULL BRAKES.

I have NOT tried anything different since and I love my g27.

And with drifting it is VERY hard at first, but you'll get it. my advice in the options is to set to simulation, power assist off and force feedback 9 and steering sensitivity in the driving options at negative 2 or negative 1 should help you out (I race with steering sensitivity 4 though). It will be harder to turn than a real car with power steering at this point, but the effect is that it gives you more force feedback feel that is much needed because we can't feel the forces of acceleration, braking and cornering. This extra bit of feel will be beneficial and it's a good arm/shoulder workout as well.

Another thing about drifting with the wheel is that it's all in the tune. Tunes that you may have used with a controller for drifting are now out the window because with the controller the tires FLOP FLOP FLOP from neutral to full lock instantly to control the car often with the front tires skidding and with a wheel you are now countersteering the car and following a line with the front tires and using a sawing back and forth motion to maintain the drift and a LOT of throttle blipping with the pedal to keep things in order.

Another thing that helps a LOT is rigging up an ebrake on a ds3 controller that is set to control number 1 with the ebrake set to one of the analog sticks. It allows all the buttons on the ds3 to work but cancels steering output from the controller

Here is a picture of the ebrake I built. doesn't have to be as custom as this but it will give you an idea of what you are looking to accomplish. Real life drifters use handbrakes so why not have one to use with your wheel.

001.jpg


GOPR0017.jpg


GOPR0018.jpg


GOPR0019.jpg
 
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If he is learning to drift then the "tune" should have nothing to do with it, attempting to tune a car to drift would be pointless as he would have no reference point. Like I said, start with a stock road car, something front engine, rear drive, and with a fairly long wheelbase and a fair bit of power.
 
peter_vod69
If he is learning to drift then the "tune" should have nothing to do with it, attempting to tune a car to drift would be pointless as he would have no reference point. Like I said, start with a stock road car, something front engine, rear drive, and with a fairly long wheelbase and a fair bit of power.
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Beating around the bush are we? You quoted "tune" obviously referring to my post. He said he already drifts on the control so he already understands the concept of drifting and very well may have the car tuned to drift good with a controller.

Yeah a stock car can be drifted but not like one with a good tune on it and it'll be harder to control= harder to learn. We don't have to agree though I'm ok with it.
 
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HawkeTrainer
Well I been driving with the g27,seems I'm getting better at grip driving~But now I can't drift!

Im no pro but with The ds3 I can atleast run the track,But I haven't been able to get a single corner with the g27 :(

Even if I get threw the corner the snapback seems uncontrollable, No matter what I try nothing seems to work~lots of countersteer, Minimum countersteer,working the throttle,braking Ect~

Is it just practice? or do I need to do something special to my car to make it exit a drift without spining out :crazy:
Click to expand...

4 years ago when I first plugged my g25 in I immediately went out to try drifting with clutch and full 900 degrees of lock... needless to say it didn't work out. :lol:

It takes practice to learn the correct amount of countersteer and technique to learn how to turn the wheel quick enough to get snapback in control. You should use the ffb to your full advantage, so when you go for the initial countersteer you should let the FFB tell you how much to turn, and then interpret the car's movements so you know when you should start straightening the wheel again.

Learning to drift is a good way to start using a wheel in my opinion, because when you can drift you can also countersteer and then you'll learn how to catch slides and eventually you'll work the margin finer and finer and eventually you can "drift" the cars without smoke and very minimal steering adjustment. Usually that's really fast.
 
Ok,
So from this thread, and other threads that i have been browsing, the steering wheel and buttons are covered pretty comprehensively. I personally have found some differences in driving sessions and that could be due to the order in which i plugged the devices.
My question is what about the pedals!?!?! Does the device sensitivity setting only affect the steering wheel or does it affect the pedals too?
In my experience some cars have been a dream to drive and others have been a nightmare. The startling thing is that some of the cars that should perform very very well in terms of braking ability have been very bad!!! Its as if the pedal sensitivity is too high. I barely touch the brake pedal and the brake-o-meter dial goes up to 100% braking and the car breaks traction. I find myself going into the brake bias settings and turning front and back down to 1 for front and rear. This seems to help a little, but this shouldn't be the solution to the problem.
A good many of the cars with powerful brakes appear to perform badly in the braking area.
(cars tested with default setup but same problem yielded)
ABS set to 0
edit:
example: Mercedes-Benz CLK-GTR Race Car '98 hits 100% braking on the brake meter with a feather touch of the brake pedal.
 
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mikeonthebike
...THEN after I start the game and im pulling out of the pit in auto drive or if Im in a race waiting for countdown I step on all pedals once to full amount then release. This calibrates the pedals. If you don't calibrate the pedals then the first time you use the brake pedal and say you only push it half way down from that point on half pedal is now FULL BRAKES...
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HAZZZAHHH!!!
I need to learn to read better.
I'll give this a try. The only question that remains is from what point can you do this calibration of the brake pedal? Can you do it from the GT mode menu?
(will experiment with this)
 
I depress the brake pedal (when i remember) each time i start up gt5, so, so many times i've started a race only to sail into turn 1 with no brakes haha.
 
The brake pedal (for G27) is certainly calibrated with the method as described above. I wish logitech mentioned this in their instructions... So now i depress the brake pedal all the way down and release and repeat for the accelerator just prior to the green flag for my first race after the PS3 first powers on. There is definitely a difference!
 
Man, I think I've been doing something wrong, I've been using my wheel for over 2 years and never had to calibrate anything. Everything seems normal and I also drive without abs.

Is this calibration thing true? I've never done it and am a little skeptical.
 
Bluntified
Is this calibration thing true? I've never done it and am a little skeptical.
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I know with my DFGT I need to fully depress the brake and throttle at the start of the first race as described above. On this wheel it takes about two seconds to sense the depression the first time. Hence people sailing into the wall on turn one (happens to me all the time).

With a G27 there might not be a delay but the calibration could still be off (10% depression = 100% application). If you are the type of driver to 'get on' the brake fast and hard then you might be fully depressing the brake anyway and won't notice a disparity. If instead you feather the brake up to the needed depression there will be a big problem.
 
Ronald6
I know with my DFGT I need to fully depress the brake and throttle at the start of the first race as described above. On this wheel it takes about two seconds to sense the depression the first time. Hence people sailing into the wall on turn one (happens to me all the time).

With a G27 there might not be a delay but the calibration could still be off (10% depression = 100% application). If you are the type of driver to 'get on' the brake fast and hard then you might be fully depressing the brake anyway and won't notice a disparity. If instead you feather the brake up to the needed depression there will be a big problem.
Click to expand...

I use the G27 and only need to depress each pedal for about a second before they are correctly calibrated.
 
Ronald6
I know with my DFGT I need to fully depress the brake and throttle at the start of the first race as described above. On this wheel it takes about two seconds to sense the depression the first time. Hence people sailing into the wall on turn one (happens to me all the time).

With a G27 there might not be a delay but the calibration could still be off (10% depression = 100% application). If you are the type of driver to 'get on' the brake fast and hard then you might be fully depressing the brake anyway and won't notice a disparity. If instead you feather the brake up to the needed depression there will be a big problem.
Click to expand...

I still haven't seen any delay (G27) or anything weird, I modulate the brake fairly light. I also regularly check my gauges (brake/throttle) and they seem to work as it's suppose to, without calibration.

I remember, a lot of updates ago, I would loose my brakes, but that was nearly a year ago since it happened (since before G27 was properly supported). Like I said, many updates ago, maybe it's been fixed?
 
mikeonthebike
I've been told that you should plug it into the ps3, then into outlet then turn on ps3. I drove without doing this for a long time and then I was learning how to drift with it and talked to a dude that told me that it does not calibrate right unless you plug in first then power on ps3.
Click to expand...


Ok you have something big there, I just messed around and found a totally different force feedback feel. Having the wheel set as controller 1 is actually pretty crucial to getting to most out of the wheel/software

What I did was to plug in the wheel at the xmb (I'm guessing this has nothing to do with it) and left it on controller slot 1 (I usually set my DS3 to slot 1). I the drove around a bit.
Then to check I switched my DS3 to slot 1 and the wheel lost alot of its feedback. I went back and forth a few times to see and it is truely better, I can catch slides easier and drive better.

On a side note i'm sort of bummed out because I loved using my DS3 to navigate menus as I would step away from my rig, oh well the wheel feels awesome.
 
grog
Ok you have something big there, I just messed around and found a totally different force feedback feel. Having the wheel set as controller 1 is actually pretty crucial to getting to most out of the wheel/software

What I did was to plug in the wheel at the xmb (I'm guessing this has nothing to do with it) and left it on controller slot 1 (I usually set my DS3 to slot 1). I the drove around a bit.
Then to check I switched my DS3 to slot 1 and the wheel lost alot of its feedback. I went back and forth a few times to see and it is truely better, I can catch slides easier and drive better.

On a side note i'm sort of bummed out because I loved using my DS3 to navigate menus as I would step away from my rig, oh well the wheel feels awesome.
Click to expand...

Never tried anything like that. My wheel is always plugged in to the wall and usb is always plugged into my PS3. Sometimes I put my controller to one so I can navagate menues easier. Never noticed any difference between my wheel being on 1 or 2.
 
GTP_CargoRat
Never tried anything like that. My wheel is always plugged in to the wall and usb is always plugged into my PS3. Sometimes I put my controller to one so I can navagate menues easier. Never noticed any difference between my wheel being on 1 or 2.
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Give it a try I'd appreciate some more input.
 
grog
Give it a try I'd appreciate some more input.
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I just did. Noticced no difference at all. Drove over same parts of track, grass, sand, and curbs. No difference whatsoever. Believe what you want, but I'm not convinced your theory is true. Sorry.
 
grog
Ok you have something big there, I just messed around and found a totally different force feedback feel. Having the wheel set as controller 1 is actually pretty crucial to getting to most out of the wheel/software

What I did was to plug in the wheel at the xmb (I'm guessing this has nothing to do with it) and left it on controller slot 1 (I usually set my DS3 to slot 1). I the drove around a bit.
Then to check I switched my DS3 to slot 1 and the wheel lost alot of its feedback. I went back and forth a few times to see and it is truely better, I can catch slides easier and drive better.

On a side note i'm sort of bummed out because I loved using my DS3 to navigate menus as I would step away from my rig, oh well the wheel feels awesome.
Click to expand...

I really wasn't talking about what things were set at. I was talking about making sure that the wheels USB is plugged in, then power cord plugged into wall THEN you would hit the power button on the PS3. This ritual may have only been needed before the g27 was added to gt5. Just have never broken the habit. I always run with a ds3 set to 1 for an e-brake



GTP_CargoRat
I just did. Noticced no difference at all. Drove over same parts of track, grass, sand, and curbs. No difference whatsoever. Believe what you want, but I'm not convinced your theory is true. Sorry.
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I think he was confused with what I was saying.
 
mikeonthebike
I really wasn't talking about what things were set at. I was talking about making sure that the wheels USB is plugged in, then power cord plugged into wall THEN you would hit the power button on the PS3. This ritual may have only been needed before the g27 was added to gt5. Just have never broken the habit. I always run with a ds3 set to 1 for an e-brake






I think he was confused with what I was saying.
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Ah, ok.
 
mikeonthebike
I really wasn't talking about what things were set at. I was talking about making sure that the wheels USB is plugged in, then power cord plugged into wall THEN you would hit the power button on the PS3..
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I've actually never turned my wheel on first, it seemed like needless wear. I only quoted you because you mentioned somebody saying you were calibrating it wrong, so I tried what you mentioned and noticed a difference.
mikeonthebike
I think he was confused with what I was saying.
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I'm not sure how that is confusing what you said. I simply picked up on something you didn't notice and now I'm trying to share it with the community.

I been testing all morning going back and forth with various cars and FFB settings, and I can feel more feedback for weight shifts. Also when turning into a corner with the rear stepping out, the steering lightens up more, helping me to feel when the car has rotated enough.

Its a subtle difference, but I definitely prefer leaving the ds3 set to slot 2.

EDIT: Ok after more testing I've come up with a few methods of feeling this "difference". Try both of these with the DS3 assigned to slot 1 and then 2.
(This was all done with street cars on sport hard tires with the force feedback set to 3 no driving aids)

#1: Driving at a steady 60 MPH on a straightaway weave back and forth (holding/griping the wheel gently), not swerving just gently weaving. Take note of how much force is needed while it rotates left and right, then switch slots and compare.

#2 find a few corners to test the weight of the wheel (how much force is needed to turn) the first esses at Suzuka will work well. Enter the corners with a bit of a power slide and take note of how the weight of the wheel feels after the car has begun to slid and rotate into the corner. switch slots and compare.
 
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