How to avoid 'stoppies'?

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samyfogel
I'm having problem with an abarth 500 at 550pp tuning: i can't stop it to make stoppies. i tryied balast, change suspension setup, and makes no difference. what should i do?
I'm not a very good at tuning, but i tryied stuff that make some sense.
 
It worked. Thx, man.
What is the principle behind of altering nat frequency?
It stiffens your springs, which will make them, and thus the car more resistant to body roll.
Basically, you need more force to push them down, so when you accelerate, the rear is fighting more the force that pushes it down.

Another good tip is to also make sure your dampers compression on the rear are stiff, to also add more resistance to this force, but it will make the rear over bumps a bit of a big pain.

Regarding the tyres, the grippier they are, the stronger the wheelie is, aha.
 
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It stiffens your springs, which will make them, and thus the car more resistant to body roll.
Basically, you need more force to push them down, so when you accelerate, the rear is fighting more the force that pushes it down.

Another good tip is to also make sure your dampers compression on the rear are stiff, to also add more resistance to this force, but it will make the rear over bumps a bit of a big pain.

Regarding the tyres, the grippier they are, the stronger the wheelie is, aha.
Thx for the explanation. I thought changing the damping ratio would do that.
My 500 is now almost competitive.
 
I'm having problem with an abarth 500 at 550pp tuning: i can't stop it to make stoppies. i tryied balast, change suspension setup, and makes no difference. what should i do?
I'm not a very good at tuning, but i tryied stuff that make some sense.
What do you mean by "stoppies"? Is the nose dipping? That needs front compression and/or spring natural frequency. Or you can soften the rears. Rear rebound can help as well.
 
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@LateBrakR A Stoppie is the reverse of a wheelie. Its lifting the rear wheels when braking.

Which in turn, makes me realize. I was thinking backwards, towards wheelies.

@samygrandao Increase the stiffness on the front compression dampers, and the rear rebound/extension dampers. Allied to a stiff Spring rate (Nat. Frequency), this will make the car fight back the compression of the front wheels, and the lift of the rear when braking.
Just don't hit curbs though. the car will launch itself aha.

@maxeyshikari when you have tunes in cars like the old 500 Abarth with a swapped engine, or the Swapped VW Beetle, they can be prone to do wheelies when accelerating. And the grippier the tyre, the more this is accentuated. same thing with per example, lifting the inner wheels when doing corners or slaloms with loose, soft unstable cars. The tyre does not break traction, so the force pulls the car over the tyres, so to speak.

Don't worry about using Race tyres on 99% of the cars.
But if you want to experience this, try per example a swapped VW Sambabus with max ride height, the softest on all suspension settings, and soft race tyres. Just drive around and do sharp agressive inputs.
 
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@LateBrakR A Stoppie is the reverse of a wheelie. Its lifting the rear wheels when braking.

Which in turn, makes me realize. I was thinking backwards, towards wheelies.


Don't worry about using Race tyres on 99% of the cars.
But if you want to experience this, try per example a swapped VW Sambabus with max ride height, the softest on all suspension settings, and soft race tyres. Just drive around and do sharp agressive inputs.
I know what a stoppie is irl, I just didn't know they were possible in this game until today.

I'm very new to trying to figure out tunes myself, why would you not use racing tires (apart from pp limits)?
Better tires "clean" energy transfer to hide imperfections. Because a suspension is about controlling energy transfer, you can actually tune a better suspension with lower grip tires as they will produce a "dirtier" energy transfer sequence.

But I don't see any reason to not run race tires in this game. Perhaps Lilium can explain this a bit more.
It stiffens your springs, which will make them, and thus the car more resistant to body roll.
Basically, you need more force to push them down, so when you accelerate, the rear is fighting more the force that pushes it down.

Another good tip is to also make sure your dampers compression on the rear are stiff, to also add more resistance to this force, but it will make the rear over bumps a bit of a big pain.

Regarding the tyres, the grippier they are, the stronger the wheelie is, aha.
Increase compression as you increase spring frequency, or increase spring frequency as you increase compression. This gives them balance and allows the suspension to absorb impacts regardless of how stiff the suspension is, unless other things are too tight too.

This is the reason why a properly balanced suspension and chassis is important. There are things to be concerned about IRL, but this game doesn't allow that much, just keep them properly matched.

Spring frequency affects how well the suspension holds structure, but it still needs to support the structure above compression so compression has space to work. But springs can't hold structure by itself.

So I like to keep spring frequency at least 10 clicks above compression, adjusting springs by 10 clicks for every click of compression - for most cars.

If compression is ever over spring frequency on the sliders, the wheels of that axle will feel "slippery", especially when you add sway bars into the mix. You get a car that feels like it slides everywhere when all of the car's weight is on compression and spring frequency is too low to be doing anything.

Don't worry about using Race tyres on 99% of the cars.
But if you want to experience this, try per example a swapped VW Sambabus with max ride height, the softest on all suspension settings, and soft race tyres. Just drive around and do sharp agressive inputs.
Why not use race tires?

I see what you are doing to invoke a stoppie with that, I don't even need to put it on a car. It's quite a brilliant trick.

The sticky tires have lots of grip and creates a lot of energy when you brake, but the suspension is so extended and soft that it has no hope to ever contain that much energy transfer, so it topples forward because that's where all the energy is going.

Didn't know we could even do that until today...
 
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