How to fix the bouncing car issue?
- Thread starter Sal_89
- 13 comments
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- 1,613
- Here and there...
- SUBMANIAC
when a car bounces, reduce the dampers first, then the springs if needed.
- 423
- Varallo Pombia, Italy
- Salva-the_gamer
I always reduce dampers and springs to the min. but the bounce always still there...
- 1,613
- Here and there...
- SUBMANIAC
Then you're not talking about the shaking but about how cars can lift 2 wheels when you hit the kerbs. That's part of the physics, it's not a glitch.
- 423
- Varallo Pombia, Italy
- Salva-the_gamer
Yes, you're right, I'm talking about that the car lift on 2 wheels. Then is only the physics of the game? Wow...
- 5
- Trial Mountain
I was having bouncing car issues with pretty much all the Skylines and several other cars (NSX comes to mind). No matter what I did with dampers, springs, ride height, etc. The only solution I could find was to totally remove suspension upgrades. Doing this helped so much with these cars that it also totally removed all the difficulty from the Tuned Car cup 
- 423
- Varallo Pombia, Italy
- Salva-the_gamer
Oh yeah, I noticed too hahaI was having bouncing car issues with pretty much all the Skylines and several other cars (NSX comes to mind). No matter what I did with dampers, springs, ride height, etc. The only solution I could find was to totally remove suspension upgrades. Doing this helped so much with these cars that it also totally removed all the difficulty from the Tuned Car cup
- 109
- Ireland
There's two kinds of bouncing: a slow bounce that usually happens when you go over curbs and bumps, and a very fast stutter that can happen when driving on inclines and banked corners.
The former is caused by the rear springs being too stiff. There's two solutions: soften the rear springs to around 3.6 or lower, or stiffen the rear dampers to 3 or higher. Personally I find that softening the rear springs works best, as if the rear dampers are too stiff, the car can feel clunky and unresponsive while turning. Sometimes you don't have a choice though, with cars like the R33 V-spec '97, the TRD 3000GT, the Nismo 400R or the NSX Type S's, as their rear springs are very stiff even at lowest settings. With stiff rear springs and dampers, you'll notice that the car will try to bounce, but will stop halfway and return to the ground.
The latter is caused by stiff dampers, usually 6 or higher, but sometimes less depending on the car's weight. In extreme cases, the stutter can halt the car's acceleration as well, noticeable on tracks like Grand Valley. The RPM needle will shake violently while this happens. The solution is to soften both the front and rear dampers to 5 or lower each side. Cars like the Concept Car LM on NTSC-U/-J, the Cerbera LM on NTSC-J, and racing-modified Griffith's need even softer dampers, to 2 or 1 each side.
Depending on the car and track, the stutter can be used to your advantage, as it greatly reduces braking distances and makes the car much easier to turn. It's much more useful in GT2 though, as it can be used on front-heavy, understeery cars like the GT-One road car to help them turn, at the cost of instability over bumps.
Due to fewer physics calculations per second, PAL cars tend to bounce more than on NTSC versions in both GT1 and GT2. Raising the frame rate (by playing the GT Hi-Fi mode, using Silent's high-FPS codes or otherwise) will fix most bouncing and instability issues.
The former is caused by the rear springs being too stiff. There's two solutions: soften the rear springs to around 3.6 or lower, or stiffen the rear dampers to 3 or higher. Personally I find that softening the rear springs works best, as if the rear dampers are too stiff, the car can feel clunky and unresponsive while turning. Sometimes you don't have a choice though, with cars like the R33 V-spec '97, the TRD 3000GT, the Nismo 400R or the NSX Type S's, as their rear springs are very stiff even at lowest settings. With stiff rear springs and dampers, you'll notice that the car will try to bounce, but will stop halfway and return to the ground.
The latter is caused by stiff dampers, usually 6 or higher, but sometimes less depending on the car's weight. In extreme cases, the stutter can halt the car's acceleration as well, noticeable on tracks like Grand Valley. The RPM needle will shake violently while this happens. The solution is to soften both the front and rear dampers to 5 or lower each side. Cars like the Concept Car LM on NTSC-U/-J, the Cerbera LM on NTSC-J, and racing-modified Griffith's need even softer dampers, to 2 or 1 each side.
Depending on the car and track, the stutter can be used to your advantage, as it greatly reduces braking distances and makes the car much easier to turn. It's much more useful in GT2 though, as it can be used on front-heavy, understeery cars like the GT-One road car to help them turn, at the cost of instability over bumps.
Due to fewer physics calculations per second, PAL cars tend to bounce more than on NTSC versions in both GT1 and GT2. Raising the frame rate (by playing the GT Hi-Fi mode, using Silent's high-FPS codes or otherwise) will fix most bouncing and instability issues.
- 70
- Norway
It is also caused by the framerate of the game. If you compare a specific car when emulating the game with the 50/60 fps patch active, you would notice a significant difference in bounciness.
As TeaKanji stated, the PAL version of the game is notorious for having very janky physics.
As TeaKanji stated, the PAL version of the game is notorious for having very janky physics.
